My Puppy Nips At Ankles, Growls And Chews Fingers

[pennyw74]

I know she's only playing but obviously I don't want to encourage the chewing fingers thing. Sometimes she can bite hard.

She also nips at ankles and bounces around in front or chases and growls at me walking.

I have done the yelping thing when she has "bitten" hard on fingers. Sometimes it works, a lot of times it doesn't.

What is the best way to stop her biting and chewing?

What is the best way to stop her nipping at ankles?

What is the best way to stop her growling when I walk?

What is the best way to stop her jumping up when I'm walking?

[persephone]

doubled up!

Edited February 21, 2008 by persephone

[persephone]

HI...

could you give us a few more details ?

How old is your pup?

How long have you had her?

What breed is she?

What is an approximate plan of her day?

Where does she spend most of her time?

Is she home alone much?

What training have you done with her so far ?

Thanks:)

Just gives us something to work with, and saves you being asked again

[Erny]

There are numerous things you can do for each of these. What you need to look for is what methods (there needn't be only one - randomisation can be beneficial) actually appear to be decreasing the behaviour.

I don't know how old your "puppy" is (I notice that some people refer to their dogs as puppies when they are actually adolescent age) but assuming she is very young remember that your puppy is exploring - continuously trying out what works for her, so persistency and consistency is the key. Pups will continue to explore in other ways when they find one way didn't work for them (and they'll likely come back a few times to try it out, until they recognise by pattern that it doesn't work), which is why it is good to have different ways of responding to each.

You want to use methods that whilst not traumatising to the pup, teach your pup that exhibiting those behaviours are not in her best interests ..... are not 'fun' and do not achieve whatever her goals are.

The methods you use also need to be methods you can manage either at all, or dependant on what your situation is at the time.

The best way of learning methods is to see how they are done. The amount of firmness you use cannot be well explained over the net, as this depends on how your pup responds to them. Hence, going to a dog/puppy school run by instructors who have a good base knowledge of pups and pup behaviour/psychology, is the best way to go.

There's :

"NO"

Stopping play

Distraction (pause) and re-direct to suitable chew items

Scruffing (I usually hold each side of the cheek, and firmly say "NO")

Sin-bin

...... only to name a few.

Of course also there's the (important) element of reward - but this must be given timely to ensure you're not inadvertently rewarding undesireable behaviour.

The intensity with which you apply these things, as I mentioned above, depends on the individual pup and its age - which is why it's easier to be shown, as the pup's reactions can be observed at the time. You refer to "growling" as well - this is most likely a play growl but on rare occasions is possible that it's not. Observation by an instructor/trainer/behaviourist would answer this also.

Above all, you need to be instilling information that she will compute to your heirarchy status - this involves setting boundaries and guidelines in your general day-to-day life together. All her "exploring" with you as to what she can do and what your responses are will go towards her perception, one way or the other.

Do you go to puppy or dog school, Pennyw74? If not, please let us know your location and perhaps we can make some recommendations to help you.

ETA: Going by your avatar, your girl is a Cavvy and about 8 weeks old ?????

Edited February 21, 2008 by Erny

[pennyw74]

HI...

could you give us a few more details ?

How old is your pup? She is 12 weeks tomorrow

How long have you had her? We have had her for four weeks (picked her up at eight weeks)

What breed is she? She is a Cavalier King Charles Spaniel

What is an approximate plan of her day? She gets up at 6, has breakfast, explores things, plays with my fiance then we both get ready for work. She is outside until lunch time when my fiance comes home to play for an hour and then back outside until 5. She has plenty of different toys - chew toys, ropes, etc. After 5, she plays with my fiance, I come home an hour or so later. She has dinner and then plays and snoozes until around 10. She gets really excited around 9.30.

Where does she spend most of her time? Both inside and outside. Week days is outside but weekends is with us whether inside or outside. She is too young to walk yet.

Is she home alone much? See above

What training have you done with her so far ? We have taught her to sit, and down (drop). She is no good at stay yet. I have tried heel but she just bounces along anyway. I have also tried the word "off" for when she's putting her paws on the lounge or on people's legs. Sometimes it works.

Thanks:)

Just gives us something to work with, and saves you being asked again

See answers above

Edited February 21, 2008 by pennyw74

[pennyw74]

There are numerous things you can do for each of these. What you need to look for is what methods (there needn't be only one - randomisation can be beneficial) actually appear to be decreasing the behaviour.

I don't know how old your "puppy" is (I notice that some people refer to their dogs as puppies when they are actually adolescent age) but assuming she is very young remember that your puppy is exploring - continuously trying out what works for her, so persistency and consistency is the key. Pups will continue to explore in other ways when they find one way didn't work for them (and they'll likely come back a few times to try it out, until they recognise by pattern that it doesn't work), which is why it is good to have different ways of responding to each.

You want to use methods that whilst not traumatising to the pup, teach your pup that exhibiting those behaviours are not in her best interests ..... are not 'fun' and do not achieve whatever her goals are.

The methods you use also need to be methods you can manage either at all, or dependant on what your situation is at the time.

The best way of learning methods is to see how they are done. The amount of firmness you use cannot be well explained over the net, as this depends on how your pup responds to them. Hence, going to a dog/puppy school run by instructors who have a good base knowledge of pups and pup behaviour/psychology, is the best way to go.

There's :

"NO"

Stopping play

Distraction (pause) and re-direct to suitable chew items

Scruffing (I usually hold each side of the cheek, and firmly say "NO")

Sin-bin

...... only to name a few.

The intensity with which you apply these things, as I mentioned above, depends on the individual pup and its age - which is why it's easier to be shown, as the pup's reactions can be observed at the time.

Above all, you need to be instilling information that she will compute to your heirarchy status - this involves setting boundaries and guidelines in your general day-to-day life together. All her "exploring" with you as to what she can do and what your responses are will go towards her perception, one way or the other.

Do you go to puppy or dog school, Pennyw74? If not, please let us know your location and perhaps we can make some recommendations to help you.

ETA: Going by your avatar, your girl is a Cavvy and about 8 weeks old ?????

Correct, that photo was taken at 8 weeks, she's 12 weeks tomorrow.

We will be taking her to puppy preschool after her vaccination. We have been referred to one from another dog owner/breeder.

Yes, it's just play growling that she's doing now. She did a few little barks this morning, too.

Edited February 21, 2008 by pennyw74

[Erny]

We will be taking her to puppy preschool after her vaccination. We have been referred to one from another dog owner/breeder.

I hope that's soon? I'm not one for waiting (although I do take using common sense into consideration) but that's a whole 'other' story and one which is well discussed in many threads throughout the DOLForums.

In the interim you can put into place things such as a gruff "aagh" and walk away (ie play/interaction stops). If you have a play pen for her where she doesn't have free access to the whole of the house, that would be helpful.

With the biting at your ankles as you walk - this is not completely uncommon. For some pups, the invitation of chasing loose flappy trouser ends is simply irresitable. Sometimes the "aagh" and a (eg cheek) scruff will do the trick. For others, I've had them wear old clothes and treat the bottom of their trousers and tops of their shoes with a "bad taste" substance, and for some that has done the trick. Using the lead to prevent it, but making sure the rewards are there (pat; good girl; etc) before she starts the nipping behaviour, can help. If she's nipped and then stopped - be careful to pause before you reward, otherwise she still might pair the reward with the behaviour that was exhibited immediately before reward delivery.

Also - for her training. Try not to go too far too fast. I wouldn't even bother with "heel" at this age. Concentrate on the basics of sit, walk on loose lead and come. When they seem to be happening without too much fuss or bother, add in "drop". You can add in a release word (which is a word that later on will become to mean "you don't have to be "seated" anymore) as well, but I wouldn't be trying for stay work at this stage either. She is a baby with the attention span of a gnat. When kids first go to school, we'd hardly expect them to be able to cope with more complex mathematic skills beyond the 12 x table ..... same with pups. Teach them what they are capable of learning according to their brain development. Build on what you've taught to establish reliability. Expect more as she grows older into and through adolescence.

Whilst you do want to introduce some basic obedience skills, emphasise should be on teaching her appropriate socialisation skills, and gently getting her accustomed to worldly and otherwise "novel" things.

Edited February 21, 2008 by Erny

[pennyw74]

We will be taking her to puppy preschool after her vaccination. We have been referred to one from another dog owner/breeder.

I hope that's soon? I'm not one for waiting (although I do take using common sense into consideration) but that's a whole 'other' story and one which is well discussed in many threads throughout the DOLForums.

In the interim you can put into place things such as a gruff "aagh" and walk away (ie play/interaction stops). If you have a play pen for her where she doesn't have free access to the whole of the house, that would be helpful.

With the biting at your ankles as you walk - this is not completely uncommon. For some pups, the invitation of chasing loose flappy trouser ends is simply irresitable. Sometimes the "aagh" and a (eg cheek) scruff will do the trick. For others, I've had them wear old clothes and treat the bottom of their trousers and tops of their shoes with a "bad taste" substance, and for some that has done the trick. Using the lead to prevent it, but making sure the rewards are there (pat; good girl; etc) before she starts the nipping behaviour, can help. If she's nipped and then stopped - be careful to pause before you reward, otherwise she still might pair the reward with the behaviour that was exhibited immediately before reward delivery.

Also - for her training. Try not to go too far too fast. I wouldn't even bother with "heel" at this age. Concentrate on the basics of sit, walk on loose lead and come. When they seem to be happening without too much fuss or bother, add in "drop". You can add in a release word (which is a word that later on will become to mean "you don't have to be "seated" anymore) as well, but I wouldn't be trying for stay work at this stage either. She is a baby with the attention span of a gnat. When kids first go to school, we'd hardly expect them to be able to cope with more complex mathematic skills beyond the 12 x table ..... same with pups. Teach them what they are capable of learning according to their brain development. Build on what you've taught to establish reliability. Expect more as she grows older into and through adolescence.

Whilst you do want to introduce some basic obedience skills, emphasise should be on teaching her appropriate socialisation skills, and gently getting her accustomed to worldly and otherwise "novel" things.

Her 12 week vaccination is this Saturday, so we'll be sorting out the pre-school thing very soon.

She hates the lead, so I'm having trouble with that at the moment.

[Erny]

She hates the lead, so I'm having trouble with that at the moment.

Put the lead on .... do nothing with it, then treat her. Repeat a few times. Finish the session.

This shouldn't take long and all being well, the next step is to put the lead on and allow her to volunteer to walk. You go with her (no tension on the lead). And treat her.

Put the lead on and be just a couple of feet in front of her (kneel down to begin with, to encourage) and call her over to you. Treat her.

Put the lead on when you're just about to give her her meal. Take it off when the meal is finished.

That's a start until you can get to someone who can show you.

ETA: Hint/tip : You don't need to quote all and every one of the posts you're responding to. If you don't need to quote, just hit the "add reply" button - helps to stop the thread becoming too long unneccessarily :wink:. Of course, if you want to quote each time, that's ok.

Edited February 21, 2008 by Erny

[helen]

sounds like a normal puppy LOL.

Try this link for some further reading on anything puppy, including what you have mentioned - http://www.k9events.com/pups.html - has loads of training info

[pennyw74]

She hates the lead, so I'm having trouble with that at the moment.

Put the lead on when you're just about to give her her meal. Take it off when the meal is finished.

If I put the lead on her before giving her dinner, she would probably not eat. That's how much her personality changes. I will try it, though.

[Erny]

Then try surreptitiously clipping it on whilst she is in the act of eating. Leave for a small moment or two or three, then unclip it.

Edited February 21, 2008 by Erny

[poodlefan]

How long/heavy is the lead? Does it have a big clip? I've seen some very small pups with some very heavy leads before.

It can be easier to start with a short light lead - and shorten it up while the pup gets accustomed to wearing it.

My advice would be to add a short light lead, put it on and ignore her. Leads inhibit free movement and this young lady doesn't appreciate it.

Methinks that you're going to need to do some ongoing training with this pup - she sounds like she has quite a personality. Don't stop training after puppy school - find yourself a decent dog club and keep training her through her teens.

[Lablover]

I know she's only playing but obviously I don't want to encourage the chewing fingers thing. Sometimes she can bite hard.

Those little needle point puppy teeth hurt, don't they? I also consider such, normal puppy behaviour. Their lives have been governed by their mouths and noses. Stimulating milk from their dam by suckling and front feet pumping. And the joys of our movement, all good things from from our hands and when we move, what fun, chasey for the pup (until we may accidently step on the poor pups feet or fall over the furry monster).

Look at ways you are accidently encouraging the behaviour. I had a terribly mouthy pup. When on the couch I would simply stop petting him and praise.

Pups eye sight is not mature at the 12 week stage, so take this into consideration as well.

[pennyw74]

How long/heavy is the lead? Does it have a big clip? I've seen some very small pups with some very heavy leads before.

It can be easier to start with a short light lead - and shorten it up while the pup gets accustomed to wearing it.

My advice would be to add a short light lead, put it on and ignore her. Leads inhibit free movement and this young lady doesn't appreciate it.

Methinks that you're going to need to do some ongoing training with this pup - she sounds like she has quite a personality. Don't stop training after puppy school - find yourself a decent dog club and keep training her through her teens.

The first collar we had, I thought was too heavy. We then tried a Martingdale collar/lead which is combined and very light. I am going to try a new collar this weekend when I get to the shops to buy her one.

[poodlefan]

How long/heavy is the lead? Does it have a big clip? I've seen some very small pups with some very heavy leads before.

It can be easier to start with a short light lead - and shorten it up while the pup gets accustomed to wearing it.

My advice would be to add a short light lead, put it on and ignore her. Leads inhibit free movement and this young lady doesn't appreciate it.

Methinks that you're going to need to do some ongoing training with this pup - she sounds like she has quite a personality. Don't stop training after puppy school - find yourself a decent dog club and keep training her through her teens.

The first collar we had, I thought was too heavy. We then tried a Martingdale collar/lead which is combined and very light. I am going to try a new collar this weekend when I get to the shops to buy her one.

Get an ordinary flat collar. IF she's a tiny pup, even a cat collar would do. If you've not been leaving a collar on her, that is the way to start. Put the collar on, once she accepts it, add the lead.

[pennyw74]

It was a cat collar we had but it was still too heavy. I'm off to the shops. Her neck is about 22cm. I've seen the nice lightweight collars so I'm getting one of those.