kja Posted December 17, 2007 Share Posted December 17, 2007 We're almost ready to bring our new Ridgie home (30th December) but it's been quite a while since we've done this and I have some questions! 1) the breeder will give her the first parvo shot at six weeks. Breeder says she's not doing the "trio" but doing some singular parvo shot - I can't remember what she called it and I may have that trio thing wrong. She said something about the one she's doing not being for measles and distemper as distemper is a non-issue anyway? Any insights on this? 2) we understand that the pup will need further shots before being able to go everywhere. I never can remember the whole sequence or time line so could someone point me in the right direction? Also, we live in a remote area by the sea. We have a great beach with excellent areas for dogs at low tide. There are very few dogs walked in this area at any time. Is it dangerous for us to take the new puppy to this area of low tide sand flat right away? Both of the dogs (ours and a friends) that she will be with have their shots etc and I'm thinking the ocean may destroy any nasties each time the tide comes in? 3) how much exercise, outside of just puppy playing, should we be looking at each day and how do we increase it? I've read things like five minutes walk per week old until they are ten months...but have no idea how close this is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poodle wrangler Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 1) Breeder will have a vaccination card- check what has been given and when the next shots are due. Do a search- lots of controversy about vaccination schedules. Also check what requirements are of the local obedience club- best to meet these. Ditto if you plan to kennel your dog at any stage. 2) Parvo can live in soil for years. Sorry, don't know how safe this area will be? I chose to walk my pup up the driveway and on the (very quiet) road nearby b4 all shots were given. 3) Large breed dogs need to take precautions as they're more prone to bone and joint problems: 1. Lower protein puppy food- many brands now have "large breed puppy" formulas. 2. Limit exercise- breeder told me only 15 minute walks up to about 12 months. Preferably on grass/ softer surfaces. No jumping e.g. frisbee, agility, on-off beds/ furniture, leaping in-out of 4WD while bones are growing (i.e. up to about 14 months or so). Some vets suggest mad zoomies in the backyard and wrestling with other dogs is actually worse on growing joints than quieter on-lead walking. Have fun and good luck with pup Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nekhbet Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 The C3 is Distemper, Parvovirus and Canine Hepatitis. There is no measles in dogs. The C5 adds the most common viral and bacterial respiratory infections. I wouldnt say Distemper is a non issue - vaccination and control of feral animals controls distemper but its never gone completely. you need to give 2 more C5 vaccinations if you want to start taking the dog out. One 4 weeks after the one the breeder gives and another 4 weeks after that one. I wouldnt be taking the pup to a dog beach especially now its warmer it will be swarming with dogs and dog poo. Dogs shed viruses all over the place not just where the water washes and your pup is covered for absolutely nothing. I would a week after the second but for now find quieter places with less dogs if you want to take it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kja Posted December 18, 2007 Author Share Posted December 18, 2007 The C3 is Distemper, Parvovirus and Canine Hepatitis. There is no measles in dogs. The C5 adds the most common viral and bacterial respiratory infections.I wouldnt say Distemper is a non issue - vaccination and control of feral animals controls distemper but its never gone completely. you need to give 2 more C5 vaccinations if you want to start taking the dog out. One 4 weeks after the one the breeder gives and another 4 weeks after that one. I wouldnt be taking the pup to a dog beach especially now its warmer it will be swarming with dogs and dog poo. Dogs shed viruses all over the place not just where the water washes and your pup is covered for absolutely nothing. I would a week after the second but for now find quieter places with less dogs if you want to take it out. Yup, that's what it was, Hepatitis...now I remember what she said. So she's NOT giving the C3...she's giving some other parvo one. So should I insist on the C3 or the C5 instead? I think, from the notes I've tried to take, that we deal with the C5 at 12 weeks? I also see a note about C7 at 12 weeks and again at 16 weeks. I really appreciate the ideas here...there's so much information and I'm trying to make the best decisions for our new girl instead of simply blindly doing what we did for the first two (though that did work!) We live remote enough that there are quite a few areas that are seemingly dog-free - I walk at various times each day throughout the week and there's one area I love that I've never seen another dog on in the past 12 months. This was the only place I was thinking of, but want to make sure she's likely to be OK first! I'm not sure what the last line is...I should wait another week after getting her C5/C7 at 12 weeks before taking her in "public"? And, dumb question, is it ok to take her to more public areas if she doesn't walk? Like if I carry her to the shops or if we take her to the beach for a swim but carry her to deep water and back? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nekhbet Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 C3 at 6-8 weeks then C5 a month after that, then another C5 another month after that one. Done for 12 months Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kja Posted December 18, 2007 Author Share Posted December 18, 2007 Thanks, Nekhbet. My breeder has said she is NOT doing the C3 but is only doing one solely for parvo. What should I do? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poodle wrangler Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 (edited) So, just the parvo at 6 weeks? Where's Rappie and the other vets??? There's some thought that 8 weeks is better to start the C3/ C5 vaccinations as pups no longer have antibodies from their dam's milk. http://www.weim.net/emberweims/Vaccine.html note: above is USA, so ignore the rabies. From what I've read, C7 is overkill. C5 includes "kennel cough" but it doesn't cover all strains of it. My fully vaccinated dog has had it (eta: kennel cough) b4. Most kennels ask for C5. Perhaps ask what the breeder's recommendation is for vaccs? Don't forget to worm (intestinal) fortnightly e.g. Drontal, plus heartworm. pricelesspets.com.au have good prices & service. Edited December 19, 2007 by Poodle wrangler Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kja Posted December 18, 2007 Author Share Posted December 18, 2007 Thanks, Poodle. I do hope some vets weigh in as this whole initial non-C3 thing is a bit confusing. This is the breeder telling me this is what she is going to do, but it just doesn't seem to be the "norm" - now whether that is good or not, I just don't know. And we don't have a vet in town until next Wednesday but I'll call her then...oh wait, it's Boxing Day, darn...I'll have to go look at her schedule for the holidays, dummy that I am I was just there today to weigh my other Ridgie and didn't notice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dogsfevr Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 Personally as a breeder doing a "do it yourself" vacc for parvo isnt something i would do for any puppies being sold . If the breeder is doing it herself then i presume it wont be seeing the vet for a puppy check??When pups are vaccinated that is when they get there puppy health check to ensure for the breeder & owners sake that all is well before it leaves. The do it yourself vacc are very cheap to buy & will save the breeder money but cost you more . If its a registered breeder this vacc may not be acceptable for the code of ethics for selling pups. My breeder has said she is NOT doing th"e C3 but is only doing one solely for parvo. What should I do?" Ask her why .It isnt the norm at all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kja Posted December 18, 2007 Author Share Posted December 18, 2007 No, the breeder is having the vet do the vac...the breeder is the one who told me what was happening and what she was going to do. The puppies are scheduled for their vet checks and all of that. I'm sorry if I'm not explaining things very clearly! The breeder is LALAPANZI Kate Nicholls and I found her on the Canine Association site after the Ridgie Association here in WA pointed me toward that site for contact details. I've been to see the pups and meet with her for two long visits. When I asked her "why" she said: 1) it's cheaper, 2) distemper is almost unheard of in Australia, 3) she thinks more than parvo is probably overkill and she thinks it's unnecessary. She did say it wasn't the norm but that it was in keeping with her desire to raise the puppies/dogs more naturally without sacrificing their health and well-being. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Tess32 Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 NO advice but I get my pup same day as you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toohey Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 Sounds like Parvac. There is some info here Make sure you ask the breeder exactly what it is called so you can let your vet know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nekhbet Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 considering the pup has no immunity any more there is no such thing as overkill. The point of 3 vaccinations on that month apart succession is to build a decent immune response in the puppy. The pup is still in a growing/forming stage at 6-8 weeks hence we give the C3. We reccomend the C5 twice more at our clinic because its not just something you pick up in kennels and having a pup catch it when its that age is not pretty ... it can lead to all sorts of other things a young dogs body is not made to handle. Ask for her to give yours a C3 before you get it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vic2010 Posted December 19, 2007 Share Posted December 19, 2007 Most places for dog training/boarding require at least the C3 vac and 1 or 2 C5 minimum. My concern is that even though its cheaper for her, you are more than likely going to have to get the C3 anyway and therefore its going to cost you more in the long run. I would check with the Canine Association the code of ethics with regards to vaccination obligations for a breeder. IMHO I would be asking for her to give your pup the C3 and I wouldnt settle for anything less. If she doesnt want to comply with that, then I would look elsewhere as it doesnt really sit right with me. In the end though its your choice and its great that you have come here for others opinions and are getting as much info as you possibly can. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kja Posted December 19, 2007 Author Share Posted December 19, 2007 Thanks! I am calling her today and asking for the C3. This is the only thing that has raised flags and I've spent more than ten hours with her on the phone and in her home. She has four dogs at the house - plus the puppies - and they are all lovely in temperment and look beautiful. I've even met with another lady who has one of her puppies/dogs so I'm sure everything else is fine. I just need to deal with this one issue - I know it's because she's trying to do things in a more "natural" way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nekhbet Posted December 19, 2007 Share Posted December 19, 2007 well its because some people can beleive that if its not completely necessary dont bother. Its like some parents dont beleive that because we dont see diseases every day its not necessary. Puppies growing up in sterile environments need their immune systems stimulated - in nature animals are bombarded with diseases every day and the strongest survive. Vaccinating is there to stimulate the dog to produce an immune response to the most common diseases and if we stop vaccinating they will return, since we have wild populations of canids that still carry them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poodle wrangler Posted December 20, 2007 Share Posted December 20, 2007 I know nothing about your breeder, but if you are happy with her and this is the only issue, why not just get the C3 done yourself at 8-10 weeks? Many people advise a vet check when you get a new pup, anyway, so you can have it done then? Has she done all the health testing on 'parents'? Pups on limited register (with WA canine body)? Microchipped? Intestinal wormed? Heartwormed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kja Posted December 20, 2007 Author Share Posted December 20, 2007 Good timing...I'm talking to her today and I'm going to WRITE DOWN the answers. We have talked about almost all of the things on your list (not micro-chipping yet) but with the excitement of a new puppy and all the things that are simply going on from day to day a lot of the particulars have wandered out of my mind! For the health checks on the parents, is there a list somewhere? I know about the elbows and hips. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dogsfevr Posted December 20, 2007 Share Posted December 20, 2007 Pups on limited register (with WA canine body)?We dont have to register all pups in WA (not until next march anyway) Microchipped? Isnt compulsory in WA. Its something you can ask but not something that is a requirement of the breeder. The thing to remember with the vaccs is the latter its done the latter the pup can start socializing so you are behind the ball at the crucial time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kja Posted December 20, 2007 Author Share Posted December 20, 2007 (edited) I assume she's registering the pups as we were talking about names and she was counting letters as she said there are only 26 (?) allowed in the registration? We think we're going with Lalapanzi Roca MatildaLily ... the prefix is set, the suffix isn't final yet (as of last week anyway). I know the breeder's usually choose the whole name, but she liked our idea on a name, too! Yup on the vax - that's why I'm asking questions and doing a lot of reading. I want to do it the best way to protect the pup and to make sure we can get her out and about as soon as is safe! Edited December 20, 2007 by kja Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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