Quarantine Area

[Steve]

We have only just completed our new quarantine area - 2 of them. if you didnt know better you would say they looked like bathrooms . Sealed wall tiles right up the walls [ 2 metres] and sealed floor tiles with two drains in each .

We change boots and clothes on the way in and out and nothing such as food bowls or water bowls comes out . They are all cleaned inside the room and there is an exhaust fan to suck up anything thats floating around in the air too. Everything is set up for the ability to clean and nothing can get caught in nooks or crannys and incubate - they each have hot running water and a washing machine - everything is washed in bleach and hung in the sun to dry. No other dog or cat can get within 6 metres. No human other than me or my husband get to go in these areas.

Any thing that comes in stays in these areas for 7 days in pens 6 feet x 4 feet and after 7 days they can access an outside penned area which is sealed concrete floors, drains and a double fence so no dogs can get within 3 feet of the dogs, drains etc

I recently had two rescue kittens in one of them which came in with chlamydia , ear mite , fleas and worms .This allowed me to isolate them, treat them ,vaccinate them etc before they came out and said hello to my animals.

In the last few weeks we've used the bob - cat which removed the top layer of soil in my exercise areas and we've used fire to make sure nothing is incubating here before we start. So hopefully any bugs that were already in are dead and if I make sure everything getting passed a certain point is clear - my dogs are safe.

The reality is though that not everyone can go to the extremes Ive gone to but we recently had a parvo scare which threatened my own dogs and for me this is an unacceptable risk and I never want to have to face that again . I am responsible for my own dogs health and safety and any minute now part of the MDBA feeding trials will be conducted here so if I couldnt have an area which took the risks down I would be in a constant state of stress and fear for them.

I guess much depends on the size and age of the dogs you are taking in but If I was taking any of the pups that came from Griffith, money and space was short I would set up a cage as big as space would allow in a laundry or shed and keep them in there as comfortable as possible for at least 7 days - preferrably 10 days while I treated them for worms ,mites ring worm staph or strep etc and made sure they werent incubating parvo or kennel cough.

You have to understand ,what you want to do ,what you are prepared to risk and compromise on to do it and how you can eliminate some of the risks based on what you have to work with .There's literally hundreds of ways you can do this by understanding the deseases and being aware of your resources .You may only be able to quarantine small dogs for example . But one thing is for certain ignoring the fact there is a definite risk to your own dogs, and your family isn't the most acceptable of management plans. You may feel that your dogs arent at much risk because they have been vaccinated but there's lots more things stray dogs can bring in that arent covered by vaccinations,arent obvious when they come in and once your environment is contaminated any you bring in after that are at risk too.

[tramissa]

That's wonderful news Daisy! Hope it all works out for you :rolleyes:

[Trisven13]

Steve, they sound like the Rolls Royce of quarantine areas - don't suppose you can post some photos so I can visualise it all?

We have a couple of committee members with acreage and we are hoping within the next 6 months to have set up some adequate quarantine facilities and I would love to have some examples to show to our committee. I have seen Jacq's & Staffy Rescue's in the flesh - but would appreciate pictures of any others that people have.

[Ping]

Good news - I have been talking with a rescue group and they are interested in trying to raise funds to set up a quarantine run in my backyard :rolleyes:

I am going to go to my local council and find out if permission is needed and if there are any guidelines

Wow, how good is that!! Good luck with getting it organized.

Edited July 20, 2007 by Ping

[Daisy]

Steve you mentined on another thread that you could set up a quarantine area without it costing a lot of money, can you give us some ideas please? Your quarantine areas sound fantastic but would be out of the reach of most people.

[Trisven13]

Beat me to it Daisy :rolleyes:

[Steve]

Depends what rescources you have and what size and what age dogs you take .But as long as you have an area which keeps the new dog away from the other dogs, which is easily cleaned its preferrable to nothing. So even if you section off a smallish run area ,use a cormer in your laundry ,a shed etc that wont cut down all the risks but realistically unless you have a facility which a million bucks has gone into you wont cut down all the risks anyway. Some stuff like vynal or heavy plastic might can be used as a non porous surface if you cant afford sealed concrete too .

Have a good look at what your biggest issues are - Parvo and anything that may infect your family are the two biggies and you can cut down on some just by having a strict protocol and a few tools as they come in. A hands on exam will pick up any skin problems , a black light will tell you about fungi , take its temp ,worm it with a good all wormer not a cheap one and bath it with apple cidar vinegar .If you spot anything take steps to treat it straight away and if you dont know if its vaccinated hit it with some parvac . O.K. Its going to cost about 10 dollars per dog as it comes through [including the parvac] but you've already dealt with and or identified some of the biggies. 5 days will tell you whether you have parvo or enteritis, e Coli etc .But if its been exposed to parvo it may be able to shed virus even without symptoms so to be safe you need at least 14 days where its poo cant get in contact with anything else and where it can be easily cleaned up after.If parvo does turn up you have kept the infection risks to an acceptable level as long as your own dogs are always up to date on their vaccinations .

You also have to consider where you are going to clean your food and water bowls ,how and where you will do the laundry its exposed to ,where you will get rid of poos and materials such as newspapers etc it might use as litter ,where you will wash your hands and what with and whether you need to change shoes or clothing after certain activities.

So you dont have to think sealed concrete and brick because even this if not managed properly isnt an instant solution .

I know it sounds a bit corny and some may think its a bit overboard but even if you only take one now and then its a good idea to do up a list of what needs to be done when a new dog comes in and consider the risks based on where its coming from etc .

Rescue people should be working with their foster carers to help them to be prepared for new arrivals and what they need to keep it and their family safest and talking to them about hygiene and cleanliness etc. Dont assume people just know because they dont and even people who should know forget until there's a big deal.Helping your foster carers to be more educated and knowledgable means less potential problems for everyone.

[Greytmate]

We don't have our own kennels, but we do lease kennels where our dogs stay and are observed before they go into foster care. Not quarantine in the strictest sense, but it does allow up to pick up any problems and to keep our foster carers' other pets safe.

The good thing about racing greyhounds is that they have all been vaccinated as pups, and are not allowed to be registered for racing unless vaccinated again at a year old. So at least we know that they have some immunity.

And we have a requirement that the dogs have a current vaccination certificate before we accept them into our program.

While our system would not suit many rescue groups, those that take in surrendered dogs could ask if the dog could possibly be vaccinated a fortnight before being accepted, and this would lower the risk of parvo being spread if a rescuer has no possible way to quarantine a dog themselves.

Too bad the pounds only hold dogs for a week or so. If they were able to be held for a few weeks, they could be vaccinated and left in the pound for a fortnight before being picked up for foster care. That would be one step better than coming straight out of the pound into foster care and then being vaccinated.

Edited July 20, 2007 by Greytmate

[Cordelia]

Some stuff like vynal or heavy plastic might can be used as a non porous surface if you cant afford sealed concrete too .

The really cheap Lino from bunnings is perfect for this use. I have it in my spare room. It does split if used on carpet though

[Muttly]

maybe this could be a pinned thread?

[Raelene]

Great work and question Daisy and thanks to those so keen to help out!

Drainage, this is something I have been thinking about for a long time.

I wonder where the refuse goes to from the pounds? I can only "assume/presume" that it is storm water and goes straight into the various water sources they end up at? What if it hasn't been treated first and what about hosing the left-over faeces/vomit that couldn't be picked up out and into the drains???? I imagine if this is the case it can't do much for control in the community.

Although Griffith is coming up in lights for parvo, it really is a huge risk from many other pounds too, just a bad time for it there, next time it will be somewhere else - as much as they all try to minimise it - it is a risk of rescue life. If only dog owners vaccinated their pups/dogs....

Anyway the biggest drainage question for me is how/where does the water go when you live on a farm? I had a scare recently and nothing went into our septic - apart from killing of healthy bacteria it could spread through the grey water system. I collected and put it in an area that is unused by dogs and fenced, etc but gee it was a big effort and not my favoured solution. Is the answer some sort of sump?

I have often thought about having a quarantine facility at my place as I'm on a farm and conveniently located but I was concerned about controlling the spread of the disease without adequate drainage being a bigger problem that say in town.

For the one scare I had, he was a small and kept in a large c-crate with one piece of black plastic lining the bottom and sides (for any splash - though he never got diahhroea nor blood loss) and I found this effective.

The only think I can say though Daisy, it is stressful if one does get sick. Ensuring everything is gloved, booted, not to touch anything unnecessarily, cleaning, feeding, disinfecting. It is really important to have that side of the set-up concrete and the system humming. It's a bit like having a cold and trying not to touch your face and washing your hands after each tissue use etc (husband has low immune system) - you don't realise how easy it might be to transfer it.

The other thing was where do you get the disposable aprons and overalls from? I tried everywhere and came up blank. Ended up with a few of sets of old clothes that are well bleached and departed now....

It is a good thread.

Steve, if this isn't a rude question - how much did it cost or a setup similar to yours?

Raelene

[Cordelia]

I wonder where the refuse goes to from the pounds? I can only "assume/presume" that it is storm water and goes straight into the various water sources they end up at? What if it hasn't been treated first and what about hosing the left-over faeces/vomit that couldn't be picked up out and into the drains???? I imagine if this is the case it can't do much for control in the community.

It is illegal for a kennel facility to have drains going into stormwater run offs.

Pound usually have what is known as a "shit pit". Basically... a concrete or industrial plastic spetic tank that gets emptied when needed (depending on size).

Another way is to dig a large, deep hole... fill it with gravel/road base and have the pipes leading to it..... solid would need to picked up first and the runoff/water when cleaned then goes into the pit and is soaked deep into the earth. This type of drainage pit is not allowed within a certain distance to a dwelling (can't remember what the measurements are though).

Biomax systems http://www.biomax.com.au/default.htm

Biocycle - http://www.biocyclejowagroup.com.au/biocycle/index.html

Edited July 24, 2007 by Cordelia

[~Anne~]

The really cheap Lino from bunnings is perfect for this use. I have it in my spare room. It does split if used on carpet though

Yes, I have this too in the garage for the dogs. From memory it was only about $14/sqm unlike flooring places whose cheapest was around $21/sqm. I think it cost us around $40 to cover the floor area we needed.

[Raelene]

Thanks Cordy, good to know that there is something stopping stuff getting loose...

Must investigate further on what I might be able to construct. I'm thinking that bleach and other parvo chemicals must damage the breakdown of the septic system, but I'll go read those links. Thanks for that.

R

[eclecticgirl]

ARF Not long a go there was an advert for a Boarding Kennels for sale. Amongst the listed assets was a certain septic system that was used, cant remeber the name of it. I will see if I can go find it, it said that they also use worm farms for the poo and fur, I thought it was very interesting. There are a lot of homes that atill use septic systems also, and yes you are right there are chemicals that cant be used in it because it kills all of the organisms that help break down the gunky stuff

I just went and looked at the link that cordy put up and I think they use the biomax one, and were singing it praises

Edited July 27, 2007 by eclecticgirl

[shmoo]

can we see pictures of any set ups??!! :D

[shmoo]

ok this is what i have written for the book. have i missed anything?

When taking dogs out from a council pound, it is imperative that they serve a minimum of 10 days but preferably 21 days in a quaratined area. Many diseases a prevented from spreading with quarantine and it is the most effective way for control a dog that carries a disease or parasites.

To build a quarantine area, minimum requirements are as follows:

• Kennels must be constructed of sealed, solid, fire retardant, washable materials. Wall to floor junctions must be sealed, preferably curved, to facilitate cleaning and disinfection.

• Floors of animal housing areas must be made of an impervious material to assist cleaning and drainage. Sealed concrete or brick is ideal.

• Sealed walls of kennels must be no shorter than 1 metre high to prevent disease spreading to neighbouring pens.

• Drainage must not be across kennels into neighbouring pens and removed following council instructions.

• Lighting should be as close as possible to natural conditions. Sunlight is the preferred means of lighting, provided shaded areas are available. Artificial light should be provided where needed. This allows animal housing areas to be thoroughly cleaned and for animals to be monitored day and night.

• Ventilation should be adequate to keep animal housing areas free of dampness, noxious odours and draughts and provide sufficient warmth.

• Kennels should not be built to face each other. This may increase stress levels for the dogs, increase barking and noise, and increases the possible spread of disease.

To have an effective quarantine area the following must be applied:

• Bedding provided for animals must be changed frequently and kept clean, dry and free of parasites. Fresh bedding must be used for each new incoming animal to prevent the spread of disease.

• Bowls, food and clothing must not be shared between dogs or pens and suitably disinfected to kill all diseases.

• Faeces must be removed at least once daily, but preferably when they appear.

• Animal housing areas should not be allowed to remain wet after cleaning. Kennels should be thoroughly dried before animals are introduced.

• Disinfectants known to be active against the diseases concerned should be used to clean everything in the kennels and manufactuers instructions should be adhered to.

• Pests, including fleas, ticks, flies, lice, mosquitoes and wild rodents, must be controlled.

• People entering and cleaning the quarantine area must disinfect their shoes and hands upon entering and leaving and between entering each kennel.

Dog kennel areas, whether for single, group, short term or long term housing, must provide enough space for each dog to feed, sleep, sit, stand, lie with limbs extended, stretch and move about. Generally it is safer to house animals singly. Where some dogs may be living in shared areas, all dogs must be consistently monitored to ensure intimidation of any dog by others in the pair or group. If such intimidation is noted, steps must be taken immediately to correct the situation.

Kennel or cage size requirements depend on size, age, stress levels, whether housed single or paired and activity level. A kennel with dimensions of 4 metres x 2 metres (ie 8 square metres) is adequate for the largest of dogs if housed singly. If housed as a pair add an extra 1 square metre for the smallest of dogs and 4 square metres for the largest of dogs.

Edited March 5, 2008 by shmoo

[~Anne~]

Shmoo, this book of yours is going to be smashing. I can't wait to buy one. When can we place orders? With the amount and quality of information that appears to be in it I would pay anything for it.

[Daisy]

shmoo, maybe you could include advice for those that are unable to set up a purpose built quarantine area. You could work it something along the lines of "It is recommended that a purpose built quarantine area such as that described above be used, however if you are unable to build/access such a facility, the minimum precautions you should take would be....."

In a perfect world everyone would have a purpose built facility, but the reality is that not all rescuers will have one.

[shmoo]

shmoo, maybe you could include advice for those that are unable to set up a purpose built quarantine area. You could work it something along the lines of "It is recommended that a purpose built quarantine area such as that described above be used, however if you are unable to build/access such a facility, the minimum precautions you should take would be....."

In a perfect world everyone would have a purpose built facility, but the reality is that not all rescuers will have one.

but what else would be an effect quarantine other than what i just stated? IMO that is the minimum required.