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Whistle Training


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I use one and find it very effective. It gives a clearly audible and distinct tone.

I reward the dogs EVERY time I use it. It's really helped getting a good recall of high distractions like kangaroos.

FHR's dogs now come to it too. :rofl:

ETA mine is a small bushwalkers metal whistle purchased from a camping shop for $4.50. I wear it on a mobile phone lanyard so it's always ready to go.

It sure beats screaming your lungs out!

Edited by poodlefan
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I have about 6 of the darned things (my OH works as a sales rep in the pet supply industry) and have absolutely no idea how to use one. Never attempted to use one either.

PF, would you apply the same principle when teaching a recall but just add the whistle instead of the verbal cue??

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I love my whistle! :rofl:

The sound carries over a VERY long distance even in windy conditions and its extremely effective because the sound is distinctive from every other background noise. I have found that my dogs are far more obedient to the whistle when compared to voice, even with regard to the "sit" command. Not really sure why as I use the same training technique for both voice and whistle. I wonder, though, if it is because there's absolutely no confusion about the meaning of the whistle whereas my voice can often change in volume and tone without me even realising it...

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Kelpie I:

PF, would you apply the same principle when teaching a recall but just add the whistle instead of the verbal cue??

Yes. I've also used both cues initially.. .whistle and verbal.. then faded the verbal. However I've never gone to an intermitant reward schedule for whistle recalls.. they get rewarded every time. The one time I forgot treats they still came back as fast for every call on that walk.

Tangwyn I honestly think dogs are smart enough to situate their response to cues. When I use the whistle, we are out on bush tracks and the dogs know the reward is going to be there. They also know once they check in, more often than not they get released to run again. So they come in faster.

When I use "come".. it's often in more 'formal' situations, only intermittantly rewarded and more often than not it may mean the lead is coming on. The dogs still come, but not usually flat out.

I am happy for the dog's to have a faster recall on the whistle. Chances are if I use it, I want them back fast. I made the mistake of not using enough for "practice" runs initially... I'd blow it and Darcy would be looking for the kangaroos I was keen to stop them chasing.. little bugger. More "practice drills" has stopped that behaviour.

Edited by poodlefan
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I use a whistle for retriever training due to distances.

If a had a dollar from every pet type owner, who asks if their dogs could be as obedient, as mine at training (NOTE: I did not include at retriever trials, where my older dogs become intermittent deaf LOL) or while smelling the roses, I would be a rich woman.

Why do you need a whistle BTW? Most common problem whistle users have is they blow too long for a sit at a distance in training without proofing the dog. Short trills should instilled, so long blows can be saved for real emergenies. Leaving something up your sleeve so to speak.

For a come in whistle there is a certain amount of practice required for example, so the dogs do not think they have been cued to sit. Two short toots close together is normally used.

A good sit response to the whistle may save a dog's life one day. Especially when roads are nearby. Waffled on again...sorry.

Anyway, most times in a panic situation, the whistle is not where it should be - IN THE PERSONS mouth. Been there, done that - near a train line. An experience I will never forget.

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Lablover:

Anyway, most times in a panic situation, the whistle is not where it should be - IN THE PERSONS mouth. Been there, done that - near a train line. An experience I will never forget.

Agree. I've watched a friend fumble around in her packed bum bag looking for hers.. it must have taken over 30 seconds.

That's why mine's on a lanyard.

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Lablover:
Anyway, most times in a panic situation, the whistle is not where it should be - IN THE PERSONS mouth. Been there, done that - near a train line. An experience I will never forget.

Agree. I've watched a friend fumble around in her packed bum bag looking for hers.. it must have taken over 30 seconds.

That's why mine's on a lanyard.

Mine's on a lanyard also.

I was distracted picking up unused retrieving articles. Stupid rabbit sitting in a bush for 2 hours, while the dogs raced by.

The experience took 10 years off my life. :laugh:

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Call me paranoid but I don't trust those "silent" dog whistles.

I want to be able to hear how loud it sounds.

Lablover I'd have gone cold from fear I think in a situation like that. The best you can hope is that you remember that you've got the bloody thing around your neck. Constant practice is the way to go for dog AND handler.

Edited by poodlefan
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Call me paranoid but I don't trust those "silent" dog whistles.

I want to be able to hear how loud it sounds.

Poodlefan,

I have not used a silent whistle as they were never regarded highly.

A friend sent me a green monster (whistle - not to be confused with a picture of Shrek) from the US. That damm whistle hurt my tongue both times I tried it.

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Constant practice is the way to go for dog AND handler.

And being alert with fast dogs, who have released from training.

With it being Friday, and remembering my terror, I think a drink is in order.

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Why do you need a whistle BTW? Most common problem whistle users have is they blow too long for a sit at a distance in training without proofing the dog. Short trills should instilled, so long blows can be saved for real emergenies. Leaving something up your sleeve so to speak.

Thank you for everyone's thoughts. I wanted to give whistle training a go when I needed to recall Baci when there are large distractions. At Lure Coursing events there is a large field and she is just so distracted. So trying a difficult noise to see if she will respond to it after I do lots of proofing.

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If she is distracted (not sure if I am sure what you mean - at lure coursing), having a good recall, whatever the tool - voice, whistle ---any sound, has to be taught and proofed.

Remember dogs (that are not hearing impaired), do not stop hearing, they simply stop listening.

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If she is distracted (not sure if I am sure what you mean - at lure coursing), having a good recall, whatever the tool - voice, whistle ---any sound, has to be taught and proofed.

Remember dogs (that are not hearing impaired), do not stop hearing, they simply stop listening.

Distracted by the idea that the Lure might start again. So she dashes around the field looking for it and makes me look like I've done absolutely no training what so ever (which isn't true). Such a little bugger.

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I hope she is with you for years and years too.

Remember the number one rule, or is its number two rule, LOL, make sure you are in the position to change previously poor responses-whatever method of enforcement you use. Start short distances. Who cares if you begin again at one foot away?

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I have a "silent whistle" I got it years ago from a mail order place called Noonbarra Dog Supplies which doesn't seem to exist any more :mad I'm told that my type is now very popular. This is the type I have. I find it very good for long distances and once the dog has trained to the it, they return on the sound alone. Initially I would use the whistle to get my dogs attention then call their name, now they come on the whistle...very handy if other dogs are about which you are unsure of or you are unsure of your dogs reaction ( as I had to be with Tolkien). The whistle also remove the chance the your dog is reading the anxiety in your voice when you call, something I was told was very obvious in me :(

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