bridgie_cat

exactly my thoughts. actually i think whether i could logistically take them with me would decide if i would go for the placement at this stage or maybe wait a few years and look at it again then...

Hey guys, Would love some words of advice or shared experience people have of moving with their dogs from Aus to the US for a few years (or any temporary stay) I am looking at a course that would take me to the US for 3 years, which I would be very tempted to bring my 2 dogs (bigish shelties) over for (because that is way too long to leave them) but I am worried about a) cost, b) the stress of flights that long on them (do they get toilet breaks at stopovers? how does that work?) c) the stress of leaving them alone in quarantine for a month on the way back in. I would be very grateful for any advice people could offer! Bridget

could check in catworld forums - i think they do a fair bit of rescue stuff there.

Agree with the Finish Lappy or Sheltie for wanting trainable, lots of exercise, mod grooming and cuddly. Just make sure you do a bit of research and look for something that is not too reactive to noise etc if you don't want problems with the flying thing. Some shelties can be a bit reactive. Just look around and talk to the breeder you are looking at getting a dog from too as you can have the whole range of temperaments in one litter and the breeder will know which pup will be best.

why try to remove/limit people breeding that are not involved in an ANKC activity? It is nice if they ARE as they are out there doing something fun with their dogs, but they can be very separate activities and still done well if people are not into showing/performance but still want to select well conformed animals with good temperaments through research and discussion etc.

I suppose my thoughts fall in 2 directions: first, if it is a true effect then I am all for practices that will reduce fear behaviours and improve the relationship people can have with their pets (given - not needed, but if there is a benefit - then it is an option for those that want the extra cushion) Second: it becomes another factor to consider in selecting for good temperament for the next gen - if - and a big IF it is changing anything does that slightly mask normal for that animal and make the selection pressure a bit less in that area - but this can be said for many enviro factors. I agree the studies are aimed at selling collars in a much bigger market than they are currently used. I will regardless be watching for further studies and recommendations in the area - it may become a more done thing for the more reactive pup in a litter or similar - who knows :)

yeah becks - absolutely agree - I would love to see this done with dividing litters of guide dogs or even just volunteer breeders but guide dogs etc are particularly good since they are in relatively controlled rearing programs also.

thanks christina - in that case carry on - no issues with people disagreeing.

im sorry i posted this. I was excited as I always enjoy reading different theories on early stimulation/socialisation/manipulation that can influence adult temperament - particularly where this applies to performance and high demand working positions. Yes we breed for good temp - but then we utilise early rearing and stimulation to gain the greatest benefit from whatever genetic potential we started with. This genetics environment interaction I think is endlessly interesting (and important) and I do not see the harm in investigating/discussing any potential improvements in this area. Maybe it is overkill for many pets, but they are certainly always looking for that extra edge for things like guide dog/police dog programs or performance dogs... and I am not saying this is the answer by any means!! I am just saying that it is a topic that is always being investigated and that is why I had posted on this, in hopes of discussion on the topic.

OBJECTIVE: To evaluate the effectiveness of dog-appeasing pheromone (DAP) in reducing fear and anxiety in puppies and its effects on training and socialization. DESIGN: Randomized, controlled clinical trial. ANIMALS-45 puppies between 12 to 15 weeks of age at the time of inclusion. PROCEDURES: Puppies enrolled in puppy classes were randomly allocated to 1 of 4 groups: 2 large-breed groups (1 DAP and 1 placebo group) and 2 small-breed groups (1 DAP and 1 placebo group). The investigator, trainers, and owners were unaware of treatment allocation throughout the study. Classes lasted 8 weeks, and owners were asked to complete a questionnaire before the first lesson and at the end of each lesson thereafter. Data collected included amount of learning and degrees of fear and anxiety for each puppy. Follow-up telephone surveys of owners to obtain information on subsequent socialization of puppies were performed at 1, 3, 6, and 12 months after the classes ended. RESULTS: Dogs in DAP and placebo groups were significantly different with respect to degrees of fear and anxiety; longer and more positive interactions between puppies, including play, were evident in dogs in the DAP groups. Data from follow-up telephone surveys indicated that puppies in the DAP groups were better socialized and adapted faster in new situations and environments, compared with puppies in the placebo groups. CONCLUSIONS AND CLINICAL RELEVANCE: When compared with a placebo treatment, DAP was useful in reducing anxiety and fear in puppies during puppy classes and resulted in improved socialization. Denenberg, Sagi; Landsberg, Gary M, Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association Volume: 233 Issue: 12 Pages: 1874-82 Published: 2008-Dec-15 So imo not the best age to run the test from (tail end of "socialisation period"), and there is always the issue of using surveys that it is subjective etc. It is not the perfect test in my mind but it was quite well run with decent numbers and random allocation of animals to placebo vs DAP from groupings of size - owners, trainers and experimenters did not know if the pup was in DAP or placebo. There are only a few studies at this stage - which is why I was interested to hear if anyone has heard of them being used in real life on puppies. (lots of people already use them as an adjunct for behavioural therapy for adults - although the benefit in that case is debatable based on reviews of its use) But I did not want to sell anything and have no inclination to defend it either and by the looks of it people have not heard of their use so I am happy to sit and wait for some more studies to come out instead. ps - msg me if you would like the full article for your own interest as I can email it but it is a link I have through uni so not one that will work if I just post it on here.

Hey, I've read some studies on the benefits of using DAP (dog appeasing pheromone - or 'Adaptil') prophylactically on puppies during the socialising period and for easing the move to new homes and was wondering if any breeders had heard of this or do this themselves? Would love to hear your opinions or experiences! It sounds like an excellent theory IMO but would be interested to know if people have heard of it or actually use them!! Bridget eta: theory = DAP is pheromone released between mammary glands by lactating mothers and has a slight calming effect on dogs. The collars are a constant release of DAP for the 1 month they are left on the dog/puppy. Thus if they are put on prior to leaving mum, they have that calming influence during transition, and they do not lose both the pheromones AND all their familiar surroundings in one hit making it a more gradual change. Also having it on during socialisation (the experiment used it for 2 months of puppy class starting at 14wks - would love to see what happens if used in the 6-14wk period!) is hoping to increase your chances of each new experience being a positive one or of that experience being more positive than it would have otherwise been (the experiment found the DAP pups had longer and more positive social interactions than those without and that this had a lasting positive effect at 1yo)

Yeah - that is bad Bisart overall it is the reason we register - so people know we are being held to a higher standard - which is great as long as the rules put in follow a sound basis (ie accepted best practice for the health of the dogs - or have a good reason for being in place like time taken for any mandatory health test in that breed etc) - I do not entirely agree with the allocation of breeds in this case but in essence it is a nice idea to have different limits for different dogs and limits in the first place... So from what I have heard here and read this is for victoria only (although other states may have their own rules) and is taken from time of mating. Does anyone know if this is just for registering the litter in Vic or if it would also limit using stud dogs from/in Vic? Thanks

Sorry to drag up an old topic, but does this mean mated after 16mo or whelping after 16mo? And is it just for Vic or all states? Just working out timing but hopefully a non issue anyway - she would have to come in very early for me to have to worry!

also don't need a tie for a successful mating :) - best of luck!

Hey guys, I am trolling the web for information on this topic and thus far not having a lot of luck due to the huge amount of literature on vaccinations in general. What I am trying to find out - and please reply with links to papers/websites if you know any sources for this - is whether the viral shedding that results after immunization with a live vaccine in a healthy dog could have adverse affects on an immunocompromised pet in the household? I know you do not vaccinate a dog that is in poor health and I feel as though I have heard somewhere that you should keep bitches in whelp away from recently vaccinated dogs for the first week for this reason... but I am not sure if this rule applies to dogs in poor health being kept separate from recently vacc dogs in general in case of being less able to combat potential infection. Would appreciate any replies and feel free to pm me if you like Thanks Bridget

Even from 6wks when I still had all the puppies at home it is worth the risk to go and carry them around on your arm and talk to people and get them riding in the car, meeting children in a stress free way etc - after the first vacc I did even more of this but they are never put on the ground and dont go to busy dog areas (dog parks, clubs, anywhere grassy that is clearly an area where people will be walking dogs) or socialise with unknown adult dogs - we dont have a puppy playgroup here atm so instead we went to friends houses where it is private property and only their fully vaccinated dogs there or invited over other friends with young pups that couldnt go out yet either. There is lots you can do with relatively little risk and imo it is worth it to start at the younger age.

Hiya! Has anyone got a good thing they have their dog do when visitors or anyone comes through the door? And how to teach it I am wanting to teach them something to give positive direction to stop the barking and running game that is the go now. Trying to stop the barking alone has been unsuccessful thus far... They tend to bark and get excited by car noise in the drive and by people coming in doors etc... Thanks! Bridget

Hiya! Ohk - overall toilet training is going well over here - I know the basics and she is really good at going on command outside on the grass - hasnt quite worked out that in the house is not ok yet... my question is - she is doing a lot of small piddles - outside and in - and I wondered if perhaps it was a medical issue - but she can hold on all night until morning with no accidents and can wait during the day and do a big piddle if she chooses - it looks more like the tiny marking pees that her mother is so fond of... but isnt 11weeks a bit young for those games??! (she certainly has the temperament for it if that is what she's doing - an absolute madame!) Any ideas why she would be doing this? It just makes it a little trickier to time toilet breaks between inside time... as she will go outside and then do another a few minutes later sometimes! Any thoughts on why she is doing it or what I could do most welcome! Bridget

hey sorry, I am living in Camperdown near the Sydney Uni thanks for the recommendations, I will look them up!

Hey guys! I am just starting to research all the stuff I can do with Toby my 11wo sheltie pup when I get back to Sydney for uni (she will be a little older by then and fully vacc etc)... I definitely need to take her to a puppy school for socialising etc - but I wanted to know if anyone has experience with particular vet's or schools that have a puppy group they thought was good?? Not knowing the different dog clubs or dog people at all in Syd I am going into it a bit blind and would rather go to something recommended than simply choose and hope at the moment I was thinking about going to Happy Tails as I did some work experience there (and thus it is the only place I kinda know) and they have a delta trained instructor taking the class - and I would like for her to be somewhere that does positive reinf. - but yes, would love to look up any other places people think are good! Thanks! Bridget

I found a pen lid impossible to use pop up tops off those glass juice bottles... similar to the jam lid but a nice size to hold - but either way interesting thing I saw on a mary ray? dvd - she threw food on the ground and clicked each bit as the pup ate it... perhaps with this type of thing focus would be on the extra good treats and the click would not be as bit an issue? but certainly a softer click would be good... (note - it may be worth eliminating this fear anyways since you will probably end up at school or trials where other people are using box clickers and in this case you dont want her freaking out or being overly distracted from what you are doing etc ) Bridget

that is awesome! I was working on this with Lana before I left -but she got really upset when I moved away from the chair :D didnt quite get to the standing with leg out stage - but kinda close - will have to continue later.......

I first taught a very avg weave with the dance thingo - then re taught them with the clicker (ie 2 by 2) - and now she is getting really fast - and what I love most is that her entries improved soooooooo much!!!! (when doing the clicker did the whole teaching entry on both sides etc from the word go...) edit for method :D

thanks! I have managed to export them to a new folder... I assume that is good - tis downsizing them for me and it means I can get them into photobucket - may or may not be the right way to do it - but it works

heya! just what the title says... I just got a new iMac to use at uni and before now I have been using all windows stuff - so safe to say I am very limited in what I can do on this comp Could anyone with exp here give me some advice? I can see the crop function - but I am hoping to resize via % like you can on microsoft office picture manager Bridget