bridgie_cat

just a quick pic of the kids ;) we had 2 boys and a girl on the 29th of sept <3

expecting sheltie babies 30th of September

Hello team, I have a 3.5yo bitch who I just adore and am starting to worry we will not get pups from her at this rate... Have planned to breed her the last 3 seasons - first one failed to get mating done - stud just not that interested. 2nd one matings all went well (same stud), but resorbed the litter between 4 and 5wks... This season all lined up to do matings with different stud, looked like she came in, tested day 7 - and prog gone way high! (190nmol/L) Too high to do a mating. Assume first part of season silent and we didnt realise she was ready to go. Had stud dog here and all but he wasnt showing interest during the week either... my first experience of a silent season - sadly not the bitch i wanted to have a learn the hard way experience with! So - I will try again next season. When she will be 4yo. And I am very much worrying that things are just not going smoothly for this girl. She is otherwise a very fit girl. Is a massive flirt and was easy to breed on the season we got the timing right. I had her on grain free salmon based food that time (canidae pure sea), and this time had her on Eukanuba 20/30. Thinking we will try sires on ice Boost Ya Girls before the next season (im told start about a month before she is expected?). Obviously I will be watching her closely and ready to jump on a prog test if things are looking odd... Just wondering if anyone has any advice of what else I can try with her... The resorb is obviously a worry and I dont know if that was bad luck or bad combination or infection or something else. She did not get sick at all at the time. Swabbed this season and all normal on cytology for what that is worth. Thanks for any words of wisdom as always!

Hey guys! I am looking seriously at trialling raw feeding with a couple of my dogs, but wondering what sort of considerations need to be made with the breeding girls? Would love any advice or recommendations on resources to look at on this topic Thanks! Bridget

We have just had a litter of Shelties here, eta born 3rd July 4 girls 1 boy boy is 2nd from the left

have done ultrasounds in the last week - first bitch has a good size litter - i count 5-6? rough count. Second bitch has 2 that I can see. She is however the smaller/more compact and older bitch (3yrs vs 2yrs) - both are first time litters. Second girl obviously did not get mated over longer period so would not have been covering whole fertile window as with first - went off quickly too. So, many factors could be influencing litter size - but just reporting back that both are preg and now fingers crossed that all goes well

Thanks Rebanne - I did mate them again that night. So she ended up with 3 days running, slip, tie, tie. Break the day after and by Wednesday she is growling at him so going off. Time will tell now how it has all gone!! Love this dog and borrowed from a good friend 10hrs away so everything crossed that at least one has taken! Hopefully both as quite different combinations, even if it means we will be a bit busy

Hello, I have a question for the lovely experienced stud owners here! I have 2 bitches here to mate to the same dog, and of course they have ovulated 1.5 days apart (by prog testing) - one came in much earlier and has risen slowly, the other came in 5 days later but came up much faster! They have ovulated wednesday morning and thursday night/friday morning, respectively. The first we got a tie Monday, Wednesday and Friday mornings (yes, started a bit early - it is a 24hr wait for prog results here and cannot get any Friday - Sunday done so we were guessing by behaviour and days etc). The second we got a slip mating Saturday night (was able to hold him in for 10mins, everything in but the bulb), and then a long tie Sunday night. She is the one who is rising fast... and I wonder if she will go off again fast. The boy is 2yo, but has not sired anything at this stage. Had his sperm tested the week before doing the matings and he does appear to have a good number and quality of sperm. Now - he is absolutely DESPERATE tonight to get to the second girl, probably more so than yesterday, at least equal. I had planned to give him a 48hr break being a young dog and not used to this kind of work (he is no physically tired at all - keen as a bean! just thinking that I dont want to exhaust his store of swimmers) given we have done matings all of last week (with 48hr breaks) but now have done 2 with only a 24hr break ... but not sure if I should let them if they are seeming that keen? And am thinking it is very possible the second girl will go off quickly now as whilst she only ovulated thursday night/friday morning her numbers were coming up quickly... So what do you all think? The breed is a Shetland Sheepdog.

Costco have very good dog beds on and off. We picked up some large couch style beds with memory foam bases a few years back and they are fantastic! $65 or $75 at the time I think? I dont always see the memory foam ones there... but they often do have some good big beds and very well priced!

"Hobby dog breeders ‘falling well short’ of welfare standards Tom Minear, State Political Reporter, Herald Sun 33 minutes ago Subscriber only RECREATIONAL dog breeders will not have to register as businesses after the State Government moved to make last-minute changes to new laws intended to stamp out puppy farms. Hobby breeders will also get an extra year to become compliant with animal welfare standards as part of amendments announced by Agriculture Minister Jaala Pulford. Dogs Victoria, which represents about 10,000 breeders of purebred dogs, had slammed the government’s legislation as unworkable and unfair. Ms Pulford told a parliamentary inquiry today that the changes would require breeders “to become compliant with a code to which they should already be compliant”. “(They are) working furiously to get their house in order,” she said. “But they’re falling well short of where they’re supposed to be right now.” To allay concerns raised by Dogs Victoria, Ms Pulford said a new category for recreational breeders would be introduced as part of a new central registration scheme. Those breeders would be given until April 2018 to get their operations up to scratch. But Dogs Victoria policy officer Dr Terri MacDonald said the “11th hour attempt” may not be enough to “patch up” the legislation. “Dogs Victoria agrees that animal welfare is the priority,” she said. “(But the) solution is in the enforcement of current regulations and laws rather than applying another blanket of additional regulations and then leaving it to already under-resourced councils to apply.” [email protected]" hate to read such a misleading article

Would it not then be more appropriate to place a minimum number of people per X dogs kept to ensure adequate time for socialisation/care for each dog... Important question - this states 10 breeding bitch limit, and 6 adult dog limit before you must build a kennel facility. The wording makes me think that is 6 adult dogs regardless of whether they are entire, boys or girls?

*** THIS *** Is can certainly be the case quite often in the sheltie world... the specialty shows are English dominated. And then lovely English dogs will often be overlooked in the all breeds ring - and american imports or heavy 100% US bred dogs put up.... why are the all breeds judges not judging the same (or more consistently like) the specialists for the breed? In some cases they are from countries where US breed type dominates. The American shelties are bred to a different standard in the US. There are different height specification, and different wording to describe heads and expressions... it is an interesting comparison between the two and to see how they are interpreted.

Hello, I am sure this has been done before, and even found one fairly short discussion on the topic on here... but not one that mentioned any specific foods. So I am wondering what dry foods (brand and variety) people are feeding through pregnancy + lactation (and also something to feed pre breeding with an ideal omega fatty acid balance, good source of animal based protein, and all those other good things in it is what I am looking for). Thanks in advance for sharing your preferences and ideas on the topic! Bridget

but does anyone show working BCs and GSDs? I dont think anyone breeding for specifically show or work would ever go between the working and show border lines... and many working borders are on a different register aren't they? I'm not sure it is the same thing when a breed is split between work and show as that is the case in many (gun dog breeds too if I am not mistaken?) and those lines look and act very differently, and would more than likely not be bred between much? Where the US and UK shelties are all in the same ring with a big disparity in type. Not saying they should or would be split!! But I do think it is a very different situation... but thats JMO eta I will happily remove my comments on the breed splitting discussion if it will take us too far OT just replying to the question earlier about whether it was something that could happen.

this is very true. although you may struggle to buy a puppy of that quality as your first show dog out here... and being fair a dog of high enough quality to win under all judges the top and longest running breeders will only get on occasion!! Louanda have such a bitch at the moment who comes to mind :) It is not just a choice between US and UK type either - there are a couple of kennels who are blending successfully between them (and some that are not as successful) and they can have a more moderate type, more compact bodies and rib cages with a bit more bone like the US, but with a little more of the UK sweetness of expression... I would honestly find a couple of breeders who are doing alright in the show ring and breeding a "type" you like within whichever of these three categories you decide on (with nice temperaments too importantly!!) and then approach them about whether they would keep you in mind for a show prospect puppy. Within the "english" or "US" or "blended" you will still some difference in the style of dog the breeders are producing as they will each have their own priorities when doing breedings. You will often have an easier time getting a boy to show at first but I'd talk to people and see if you can get to know them and show you are keen etc :) eta: there HAS been discussion about splitting the breed - particularly in Europe where more US stock is starting to come in like it has here, and there was a petition going around to get them split... BUT It would be very tough in Australia I'd think if they did split them? Gene pools are already getting smaller, then you take half the dogs off the table... and what about all the blended lines? Where would they fall? Can of worms. Will be very interesting to see if anything comes of it. You would also need judges to then judge to both the UK and US standards for each? At the moment they should all be judging to the UK standard in Australia since that is the accepted one here and what we should all be breeding to.

Big topic in the sheltie world these days Re who wins more... it is very judge dependent. I'd have to say that more and more the US dogs are taking out the all breeds shows IMO - they are showier in many ways - more ring presence with their more full on temperaments etc. The English win under the specialists at your champ shows more (where they generally have English or European judges). The US are obviously the stronger and heavier built of the 2, and in my experience are more confident/full on. Great for obedience - no issues with stand for exam! The english for me are the graceful lythe version, with the gentle quick natures, but you need to be careful as I think nervous individuals are more common in the english (happen in both of course!)... The quick and light footed english for me I just LOVE to watch running around an agility course :D obviously both are great in both sports tho!! I'd be more inclined to get the type of dog you like the look of, and the temperament you want to live with as that is the dog you will enjoy the most Feel free to drop me an email if you want to chat more about shelties and the type debate - I always enjoy a good sheltie based conversation :D my kennel is Sheltoah eta - I own both types but my preference is the English :D

I sent mine to Dr Lavelle - was able to email them in DICOM format and got results really fast - I was surprised! (I think it was just a few days?!)

can you email xrays to anyone? or is it all by post with CDs/USBs?

I disagree re usefulness of microchips. I'd estimate 90-95% of dogs brought in to our clinic as strays/escapees etc are microchiped and most of these are traceable to their owners - who can then come and collect their dog directly rather than having to send them to the pound etc etc. But then, we are also pretty good about checking microchips and reminding people to update their details that come through our clinic as clients... perhaps this helps the area to be fairly on the ball? Dont know.

wonder what % of dogs in pounds do or don't have chips... I really wouldnt have any idea. Someone must have that stat somewhere. there will be no way to trace those that dont chip and dont answer to any regulator. that will continue to be the case no matter what rule is brought in since they won't be observing whatever regulations the govt attempts to impose. that does not mean, in my mind, that we do not give the more responsible ones an easy way to trace their dogs and prove their innocence. any breeder worth their salt would be happy to happy to have a section on a microchip that allows their contact details to be kept with that dog should anything ever happen to them and that dog end up in a pound.

Hey DOL friends, We have just had an extremely traumatic and terrifying incident with a good friend whose 2 dogs were bitten by a snake in her yard. Luckily both survived, but we had a couple of days there at the vets where we did not think they would make it. They were very very sick. Anyway - now you have the context - she is in need of snake proofing advice re her fencing. She has already gone to many lengths with netting etc to proof it but didnt realise the snakes could be climbing over!! So - the question is - how high do fences need to be, should there be an outward angle on the top to stop them coming over? Has anyone got any idea what will keep them out? Thanks for any advice - these dogs are my friends but they are like family to me! Bridget

thanks for the ideas! we will start with the random drop in many other situations and work on good motivation for a normal recall with shorter distance and build. actually her motivation for all these things is still really good up until she has a fail due to the anticipated drop... then she is hesitant with confusion. but no harm in making a nice straight recall even more fun! I dont mind the idea of an informal recall command for the DOR exercise - although I imagine that may lead to more anticipation in the long run when she learns "this recall means we are doing something else!". I do find it useful to differentiate my stay signals depending on whether it is a COP vs long stay (I use hands visible vs hands behind back so they know whether we are doing something else from the stay). In short I think I will keep the same recall signal since ideally I want the same behaviour and speed regardless, but with a good drop in the middle if instructed!

oh I like that idea - keep her guessing and help differentiate what I am actually asking her to do! re what I am doing - I WAS calling her off the drop or calling again when I saw her dropping, but realised I was rewarding, so now when she drops am turning away, calling her back to heel, and resetting. Still a second command to get her back to heel. Not sure what else I should be doing there however... I need to get her back somehow!

OB160: Confidence Building for the Obedience and Rally Ring << assume this one?

Ahk So I have a very enthusiastic dog, who can be easily confused (or am I bad at communicating what I want? sometimes I think yes). She will drop on a dime and LOVES to be asked to do things. But since I have asked her to drop on recall (well over a year ago, just once or twice) she is now throwing in drops well before I can ask for them! If I dont reward that run, reset her, and then recall again - she will barely move off the start line and drop again, or refuse to move from her sit... hit and miss she will do a lovely normal recall, then she will throw in the drop again even though I havn't asked her for one in ages and ages! I have tried doing much shorter recalls and doing lots of normal ones, then asking for a drop nice and clearly and sooner in an attempt to show her there is a clear difference and that I will call one for her... but then she just becomes more confused trying to throw them in again. In not rewarding the anticipated drop she gets more frustrated and confused and the behaviour gets worse... So I am hoping for specific training ideas for what I should be doing with her. As we are both just getting confused! And I hate to see her so unsure of what I am asking of her. She tries so hard! If we can get these last few pieces into place we will be in the CDX ring in no time - it just feels like such a hurdle at the moment! Bridget