Just Midol

Vet thinks its the seeds as when the grass is short, no dramas, when it gets long, lots of dramas I think I'm just going to put pavers down in his run

Only for 4 hrs. We just separate the cats and dogs for 4hrs.

Pups shouldn't be out of their home yard until 12 weeks anyway. Why? Some of the most vital socialising is done before 12 weeks. I've taken all my dogs out immediately, and will do it with them all. Keep them inside till 12 weeks and you leave 2 weeks for socialising. Not really sufficient.

Did anyone use the "c" word? Perhaps I missed it. Someone said they struggled to see how it could be humane. That's a statement about them, not about you. They don't need to say it, it is implied in both of bj2circeleb posts. Of course I don't expect you to agree that she is implying I am cruel, nor do I give a toss if you agree.

Your dog is a dog, it has no concept of respect. Again, it's a dog. Anthropomorphism[sp]. Neutralised dogs will bond with a new handler, once their old handler is out of there lives. Again, you show no understanding of the goals of neutralising and how the process occurs. Fail. Dogs are not people. Neutralisation does not equal devoid of all contact with humans and dogs. Thats not the idea at all. Most working dog owners I know have neutralised dogs and let their dogs run together. They go to boarding kennels and sometimes someone other than the handler will walk and feed them. You don't know what neutralisation is. Whilst neutralisation might help leadership (because of the way we carry it out) the goal of neutralisation is not to enforce leadership. A neutralised dog does have other people and dogs in his life, but they are viewed as neutral, not positive, or negative. They might be slightly positive or negative though. That's not how neutralising is performed. Where on earth do you get your information?

But what negative fall out is there from the dogs not playing with strangers or other dogs. ETA: Within the home, so is your dog neutralised to dogs outside of your "pack"? I'm not saying one is better than the other, I prefer neutralised dogs... I just hate it when people attempt to claim I am cruel for neutralising.

Advantage is the only spot on that works for me. But honestly, in your case, I'd go with permoxin and advantage. I'd do advantage every month, then permoxin weekly. This is why I do when we get an outbreak here.

The only thing that is important to me is that my dogs listen to me with 100% accuracy, or in the case of the sibes, 99% will do. Anything else, whatever.

Not strictly, but it'd almost be impossible to hit 0. -3 -> +3 is close enough to zero for me. It's low enough that he will never go to that item over me, but high enough that it isn't aggression. Kavik, Lily is naturally not a dog dog. When a dog is pissing her off and is too excited she ignores it. It can be jumping on her head and she just pretends it doesn't exist. Though, my dogs will never come into contact with playful, exuberant dogs. I don't do dog parks, nor social outings. They have no benefit to my dog and no benefit to me. How do you get a dog that hasn't been neutralised used to sudden things? Doesn't that have more to do with the dogs nerves (how it reacts to new things) than the dogs training? My dogs are used to vets, that's a part of neutralisation. As in, the dog has no negative or positive value for it. Montu is fine with kids, babies, young children, large children. He is fine with them all. Why do you want your dog to enjoy getting pats from strangers? Surely you can provide this enjoyment? To me, the enjoyment of your dog playing with other dogs or other people is more for the benefit of the handler than the dog. If you can provide all the enjoyment your dog needs & requires then why do they need to obtain it from others?

Which is exactly what people fail to understand (not you, but people in this thread), you don't have to neutralise to everything. But I ask people who don't... What's the benefit of not neutralising dogs to other dogs and people. The way Steve explained it to me was that you've got the scale of -10 to +10, and around -2/3 to +2/3 is fine. If the dog has a +3 value for other dogs and people it means he DOES enjoy playing with them, but enjoys playing with you more.

What you refer to as neutralisation is akin to the stockholm syndrome. If the only way you can find for your dog to work or do anything for you is to take all other enjoyable things out of their lives then I can only say that it is incredilby sad. Police dogs, guide dogs for the blind and assistance dogs all have time off, play with other dogs, interact with other people, play with toys on their own, etc and yet they all manage to do incredible work and to place their handlers at number 1, and would never blink and eyelid when working. If you cannot allow your dog to have a full and meaningful life while still seeing you as number 1, then you need to learn how to train dogs!! Why do people continue to feel that the only way a dog can see you as number 1 is to deprive them of all other enjoyment in life. There is no reason for this sort of behaviour and I struggle to see how such things can be seen as humane. I suggest you read this article and then explain why what she says is not true and why it is that guide dogs of all dogs who are able to safely guide a totally blind person across a busy road, is capeable of playing with other dogs, interacting with other people and playing with toys when they are not working, and yet at the site of their harnesses they jump up and ran to have to put on with great enthusiasm. It is possible for dogs to love working, to see their hanlder as number 1 and the most important thing in life and yet still play with other dogs, interact with other people and play with toys. http://flyingdogpress.com/hostage.html You don't understand neutralisation at all. Police dogs, assistance dogs, security dogs... All are neutralised. I got about 3 paragraphs in and now I am 100% confident that you have no idea. It talks about isolating the dog so the dogs only social contact is with him. Locking her in a room whenever he isn't there so she is just bursting to play with him. That's not how neutralisation works, my dog has never been isolated from other dogs (though he never gets free roaming time with them) and he does wander around other people... He has just never cared about them as they have never given him any attention. I'm not depriving him from anything... He never KNEW them to be fun. He isn't isolated from them, they just don't give him anything so they aren't something that is positive for them. Anita, you also don't understand neutralisation. You're not neutralising your dog to it's drives (which is a stupid way to put it). ------------ Every time neutralisation comes up we get a barrage of people who don't understand it at all bad mouthing it. It's worse than the anti-prong and anti-ecollar people. Do some friggin research before you bad mouth methods you don't understand. Ignorance... Celebrated.

I hope they're insulted, they're not very good trainers if they don't know how to condition. I'm not entirely sure I'd consider then experienced trainers if they don't understand the basics of using training aids. It's not something that's tied in with the aid, it's common with all aids.

Isn't it great that I really just don't care? I am familiar enough to have formed the opinion I have, maybe I've only seen them used the wrong way......who knows.....either way that is my opinion on the tools for now and I never expected everyone to agree with me Not really a question of "maybe". Based on your posts, you've never seen them used correctly nor have you ever used them correctly, but ignorance is bliss.

Are there any types of grasses which are less likely to cause allergies from grass seeds?

"I very much doubt that the ANKC had anything to do with the law. Probably wouldn't care. " Sure they care, they openly declare that they don't support schuhtzhund. I bet if it was put to them they'd support a ban on it. ANKC members can have their membership revoked for participating.

Yeah, logic could go either way but do you want to risk killing your worms? Perhaps split your worms into two and do an experiment?

Guess that's another way to look at it But if you eat a stone, it comes out of your arse. Not everything can be filtered

Logic.

1 word: Neutralisation.

Vaccinating at 6 weeks does nothing anyway. The most current vacc schedule is 8week/12week...

FCI (not sure what the initials stand for) is the main body over in Germany and my understanding is that ANKC is affiliated with that group. So wouldn't that mean that the certain of the breeds recognised in this sport ARE bound to the Codes of the FCI? The ANKC doesn't support IPO/Sch. They would probably support a country-wide ban on it.

Not sure if someone posted this but... Made in Australia, Manufacturered in Australia & Australian made all mean the food is at least 50% made of Australian ingredients and processed in Aus. PRODUCT of Australia, requires almost ALL of the processing and ingredients to come from Australia. Not all of them, but almost all. Product of Australia > Made in Australia > Imported.

Oops, two separate companies. So big dog deliver? I think I might buy 50/50 from the two companies, compare price & quality and go from there. I've got a chest freezer now so I really want to get at least 2 months supply at a time.

I've bought their roo before, I'll give them a call. Roo was top quality, imo. And their tail pieces were huge. Completely forgot about them, thanks. I think I'll grab beef through that greyhound place and roo from aussie pet foods.

Working people give their dogs bones to chew on to make the ears rise. Still have nfi why or how it works but meh.