Just Midol

Why's that? Because to me, it appears as though they operate as a business & political lobby group. This also: http://www.avsabonline.org/avsabonline/ima...20statement.pdf Also the bottom link on this page: http://www.avsabonline.org/avsabonline/ind...&Itemid=375 imo a lot in that "article" that is linked to is complete crap. Sorry, but imo, the organisation is a political lobby group with the majority of members being positive trainers who throw in some lame "if" statements so they don't completely rule out punishments simply to keep some of their members happy. The fact that they don't appear to tackle any real subjects (like the psychological vs physical punishment issue, physical correction vs withholding of rewards... which is worse) shows they don't really care about researching anything worthwhile. I might be wrong, but I doubt it. Why am I expected to agree with them simply because they are vets?

That's a huge problem I have with Montu, and why his level isn't as low as I want it.

Ditto to Cosmolo. Also adding the AVSAB has no real credibility when it comes to dog training, to me.

In my household is it: -Acceptable for my dogs to guard their food bowls. -Unacceptable for them to remove their food from their bowls and guard it in another spot. -Unacceptable for another dog to approach another dogs food, but if it does occur, the one who guarded (growled) is not punished for it unless they guard their food from ME. My little shit of a sibe (gizmo) used to hide bones in key places (like the door outside) so Lily couldn't go outside as he'd guard, so I had to teach them the second rule of feeding (second in the above list) but it was hard enforcing it so I just feed them separately now.

Definitely. But why is -1 a bad thing? When is my dog going to have a bad experience with someone? When he is biting them and they kick him in the head? Police dogs have many "bad" experiences (Not entirely sure I believe this would be a bad experience) with people (beating, stabbing) yet they don't turn aggressive.

For deciding if you want to add veges, add them for a few weeks then remove them. If you notice no difference in your dogs coat or general health then decide whether you want to keep them in. Just because the coat doesn't change doesn't mean they aren't benefiting your dog tho (covering my arse, since I don't feed veges )

Not normal, but if your infestation is bad fleas are going to continuously jump on her and then subsequently die. Permoxin is instant, the fleas should have started dying the minute it went on the dog. If I were you, I'd lime outside (everywhere the dog goes), flea bomb and permoxin all within a 2 day period (a weekend.)

Permoxin apparently binds on application so drying theoritically should be fine. I have to partially dry the sibes, letting sibes dry naturally takes over 2 days.

btw, permoxin can be used to treat crates/whatever. I mix up one bottle, do the two dogs then the rest just gets sprayed on bedding and such, never enough to finish the house but meh.

Yeah, normal imo (I saw it in my sibe) once they reach adult size they stop eating so much. Axle was getting ~500-600g a day and moved to around 390g a day as an adult (he ran around heaps.) I only feed my GSD twice a day because he is growing and he gets so frickin bored if I don't (All of his feed is fed frozen, so it keeps him occupied for ages.)

I soak them right through

funky ears...pfft lol its so annoying everywhere i take her ppl say oh is he a husky i love huskies and i say no SHE is an ALASKAN MALAMUTE and theyre like oh ok and then say something stupid like i like huskies better... like theyd even know the difference. i had a lady trying to tell me that malamutes are a type of husky at the dog park the other day and when i said no theyre not theyre a type of spitz she looked at me like i was on drugs yet she owns 2 huskies some ppl are just silly, mind you if i didnt have a mallie i would get them confused too i guess so i cant be too harsh on people, personally i think mals are much better looking but thats just my opinion and im a little biased. i had a guy tell me yesterday(used to be a malamute breeder apparantly) that her diet is good but i should give her some dry food that was high in roo meat to bulk her up as well (cant remember what it was called) but i thought roo was too rich for them or something.... i dunno, might just put on my coke and pizza diet and see how that goes... worked for the dog in K9 lol Lmao, I get the same thing. "That's a nice Mallie" "Errr, it's a husky" "Ohhh, I prefer Mallies" ---- WTF? They just called my dog a mallie, now that they know what it is they don't like it anymore??? I can tell the difference between the two, generally, but as puppies it's very hard so I just assumed it was a sibe with funky ears. Ummm, dry food high in roo? If you want roo in her diet just give her kangaroo tails - meat + teeth cleaning. Roo meat is very rich and also very lean. My dogs are fine on it, but you'd want to be careful it doesn't give her the runs. Varying the meat (say kangaroo once a week) prevents the dog getting bored with his food. My GSD will never get bored with food. He doesn't care what it is, he'll eat it. But Gizmo does. I have to vary between beef and chicken. Lmao, my first sibe was the same, huge ears, but not as big as Sashas Bella: What's an alternating day meal? I feed my dogs whenever I remember to, sometimes morning, sometimes lunch time, sometimes in the afternoon. Yesterdays meal only got to them about 30 minutes ago.

Ohhhhhhhhhh. Well then... I have nothing. I just looked at the photo and thought "That sibe has funky ears" but being a mallie it makes sense

As she gets older you're going to need to cut that down. Adult sibes need very little. Mine get 270g and 350g each. Any more and they get fat. As a puppy that'd be fine. Some like to feed veges and fruit but I don't consider it necessary though mine do get apples and frozen eggs (keeps them entertained). There is nothing scientific which supports vege being necessary, in fact, there is scientific research on wolves which show they don't eat veges.

When I win lotto I'll pay for a study to be done on various punishments and training styles to determine stress. Now I just need to pick those lucky numbers.

Fantastic for simple tricks and food driven dogs. Very narrow minded view of dog training though. Notice you specify physical punishment, in some cases, psychological punishments (time out, ignoring, with holding treats) would probably cause more stress than a physical punishment.

Nah, in regards to training. People say "I wouldn't use x on a puppy" but when does it stop being a puppy with training aids? Though, most people who I have seen say that wouldn't use them on an adult either.

Most people who neutralise their dogs (working dog owners) have dogs with very good nerves so are unlikely to be highly effected unless it happens in the fear period anyway.

It's not really about what it says, it's the intent of what it says. People can deny it all they like, but the ANKC opposes Schuhtzhund and IPO. The fact that they won't recognise SCH or IPO titles should be enough evidence.

I've heard that different things work in different areas because of the fleas building up a tolerance for some products - I use advantix and don't have a problem, but i know a friend up in queensland says that it doesn't do anything to the fleas up there! I personally would be flea bombing your house. We use 1 mortein flea bomb per carpeted room (it's a bit of overkill but very effective) and then vacate the house for 12 hours (i think it says 4 hours on the box but we go for longer because we use more bombs). When we come home we open all the windows and vacuum. We never have to bomb more than once and after having fleas really badly in the house (after we looked after a friend's cat) it was the only thing we could do to get rid of them! We're on an average, impossible to get rid of fleas. We don't have any in the house but they just constantly come on the dogs from outside. Huskies don't really get fleas, if my sibes have fleas then I know I need to lime their outside area. Montu and Benji get fleas uber easy though. I did use Advantix once, can't remember if it worked or not. Advantage was probably cheaper

And I should be able to have my say without people implying I am cruel, or hurting my dog-handler relationship.

hmmmmm.........you would think so wouldn't you........ Sadly I've seen too many people (myself included) walk out of a ring (you name the sport) and almost ignore their dog because of a bad run or 'the dog made a mistake'. It has taken me a while to come to grips with the fact that regardless of what happens my dog has been a dog and I've failed in my endeavour. My dog has had fun even if it has knocked every bar on the course - s/he probably just can't understand why I'm not as happy as they are. We all sometimes need to remember to celebrate our dogs having fun, not just our own successes they have brought about. I do get cranky when Montu has a bad day on the tug, but it's always my fault. 100% of the time. At the time, I might not see why but when I relfect back I see what I did wrong. I'm slowly learning to stop getting angry at him. (I never show my anger to him.)

From what I've seen, those who often claim others use the "lazy" or "easy" way out are training their dogs in a way that is less efficient, ie, taking longer so they feel the need to insult methods which are quicker.

I honestly find the entire positive/negative argument silly & focused too much around the physical aspects of training and it ignores the psychological side of punishments. I won't jump straight to a check chain, but I will move straight to an e-collar. I see no reason why I should spend hours teaching something which I can achieve in a few minutes if I use an e-collar. Either a tool is humane, or it isn't, to me. So if the tool is humane, I'll use it whenever I think it'll achieve our goals the quickest. ETA: I won't use physical corrections whilst in the fear period, and will limit psychological corrections. Even the word "no" could be considered a psychological correction. Why are physical corrections so bad, yet psychological corrections okay? Why is it humane to ignore a dog, but inhumane to give a quick correction which causes very little short term pain. Why is it okay to socially isolate a dog, but it is inhumane to use an e-collar? Cos, imo, good training should encompass both! I use rewards and corrections, motivation and aversives. 99% of the time when training commands with my e-collar he gets a reward as well.

Nah. I find it perfectly acceptable for people to disagree with using prongs. They get jumped on when they state they do not work, when they do not understand how to use it. Prongs DO work, it is as simple as that. If it's not working for a handler, then it's handler error or it is not suitable for the particular dog. Positive only doesn't work for me and my dogs. This comes down to my skill using positive only methods and my dogs. Maybe someone else could successfully give my two huskies perfect recalls with positive only methods but I can't, so I'll use an e-collar. The thing is positive only trainers are quick to say corrections won't work, but from what I can see those who use corrections never say positive only won't work, only that it won't work for all dogs.