sandgrubber

A vet, yes. Be prepared, though. If the old gentleman has tight finances, that must be made clear with the vet from the outset. Testing, xrays, etc. can run up a big bill very fast, and even the drugs for making the dog comfortable can come to $100/mo. It wouldn't surprise me if a strict diet, gradual introduction of exercise, and something for pain relief - with some vet supervision - would do a lot of good. If money is tight, I'd suggest proposing something like that and seeing what the vet says.

Agree with the above with some reservations. Some people, including breeders, have extreme ideas about diet. You do want to start the pup on food it is used to. But if after doing some reading, talking to your vet, and seeing what options are available locally, and considering your own lifestyle, you can change the diet. I used to breed labs. I've seen them thrive on a wide variety of diets... All raw, to all dry kibble.

I can't advise as I have not been there. There are two topics currently running in this forum relating to chemo... they may be helpful.

Merle is pretty rare in most breeds. I don't think it is accepted in any gun dog, hound or terrier breed. Not sure about other groups. Happy to be corrected.

Should add, unfortunately, some purebred pedigree dogs have hereditary health and/or temperament problems that could and should have been prevented by more careful breeding. In some cases (trendy high price breeds are especially vulnerable) the mongrel is the breeder, not the dog. Worse, still, in some cases judges reward unhealthy extreme type. There's plenty of blame to go around and, IMO, not enough of institutions taking responsibility.

It's also better if they don't advertise them as purebread . My pet peeve is selling puppies, full stop. You shouldn't sell unless the buyer wants a dog. They grow up pretty fast

Thanks for the correction... I wasn't thinking

That's a good thing. Blue Merle is an unhealthy recessive mutation. If both sire and dam carry the gene it's likely to have serious consequences for, on average, 1/4 of the puppies.

All I did was offer an alternative viewpoint...by a respected vet who reads extensively and critically. The OP seemed to be looking for mainstream veterinary advice. This book is far from mainstream

There is some disagreement about the above book. See http://skeptvet.com/Blog/2015/06/canine-nutrigenomics-by-dr-jean-dodds-science-as-windowdressing/

The gabepentin doesn't seem to be helping Jarrah much. .. or at best, it's masking a further downhill slide. I bought another 20 days worth, but I'm afraid she's heading toward the rainbow bridge . (don't like the new emoticons... Can't find sad with tears).

In the days when I bred dogs I had a few buyers back out in the last week or so... after time wasting...so I started take deposits. Refundable if there was a serious reason (health problems, divorce...one of my buyers got murdered) but non-refundable if they simply forget or got another pup and forgot to cancel. $750 is very cheap for a designer dog puppy, but as others have suggested, the bargain bin may not be the best place to buy a puppy. See what you can find out about the sire and dam's health (have they been tested for anything) and make sure they have temperament that suits you before making a commitment. Ask for recommendations from past buyers. Hybrid vigor may or may not be real, but it won't fix everything.

Sounds good for a puppy. 14 is old, and Jasper could end out with pains before the pup is mature, but flatties tend to be very tolerant, and older dogs can teach a puppy to back off. Presuming the puppy is reasonably sensible. If you have trouble finding a Goldie, you might consider either a lab or a pointer (not a GSP, they're inclined to be very rambunctious)... or another flattie.

Chicken bones are fine...necks if Oscar is little, but watch at first to make sure he doesn't choke. If he swallow them whole and it looks like there is a choking danger, get out the meat cleaver. You don't need to worry about red meat bones to ensure minerals are adequate. Chicken works fine. Throughout history dogs have survived on scraps and refuse. They really are versatile eaters. My guess is you are fine with what you are feeding, though a few bones won't hurt.

https://www.huffingtonpost.com/entry/5-pound-dog-poodle-dies-saving-family-bear_us_5b8c1f75e4b0511db3d9de24

Jarrah (Labrador) is 14 and showing her age. Muscle atrophy, arthritis, walking painfully. I went to the vet to get some meds to make her a bit more comfortable. The vet prescribed both Carprieve (carprofen) and Nupentin (gabepentin). I've been giving her the carprofen, which is helping, but am hesitant to give her the gabepentin. I am on gabepentin for arthritis myself, and it mostly seems to make me drowsy and make it easier to get to sleep. It is definitely habit forming, if not addictive. With the amount of staggering Jarrah does, and her occasional difficulty getting on her feet, seems like the last thing she needs is pills to make her drowsy, and I'm afraid that if I start using it, she will suffer if I take her off. Curious. Has anyone else had gabepentin prescribed for their dog? If so, how has it worked out? P. S. I didn't put this in the senior dog section because I don't think anyone reads it.... Plus seems likely that gabepentin is getting prescribed for young dogs as well.

That's the unfortunate rough and tumble of dog breeding. Breeders often change their minds about what pup or pups they want to keep. But choosing the right stud and keeping the right pup are among the the most important decisions a breeder has to make. IMO, committing a specific pup at two weeks is a mistake, but we all make mistakes. Talk it over and be prepared to respect a decision made for good reason... wouldn't surprise me if there is one.

When I had a boarding kennel we had one regular Newfie. Sweet dog, but a matted, stinky mess. I'd say coats are extremely hard to maintain...and heavy shedding compared to Labs.

Actually, if you're doing the grain free thing, cat food might help prevent taurine deficiency .

1. Energy level is more important than size. I'd look for a mellow rescue. 2. While most dogs are social, an old dog who has been an only dog for many years may not appreciate company. Best if you can test him with a companion before making a commitment. 3. Get the dog YOU want. It will be with you for many years after Jax is gone.

May be of interest for some http://skeptvet.com/Blog/2018/07/evidence-update-promising-clinical-trial-of-cbd-for-arthritis-treatment-in-dogs/

You didn't ask for my opinion, but you might want to look at: http://skeptvet.com/Blog/2018/08/grain-free-diets-and-heart-disease-in-dogs/

Canis got domesticated as a scavenger. Yes, dogs have nutritional needs.... But they can thrive on a lot of things

Type of meat matters. If you want a pup to put on weight, find fattier cuts. They contain much more energy per kg than lean muscle. Often twice as much or more. Of course, not pure lard... But frames with skin and some fat globs along with the meaty bits are good I'd go by trial and error, and find the amount that keeps your pup at the right weight.

My brother has cork. They banned dogs from walking on it. It's too soft. Unless you keep toenails VERY short or use a vary hard coating, it will get damaged.