sandgrubber

Thanks for the correction... I wasn't thinking

That's a good thing. Blue Merle is an unhealthy recessive mutation. If both sire and dam carry the gene it's likely to have serious consequences for, on average, 1/4 of the puppies.

All I did was offer an alternative viewpoint...by a respected vet who reads extensively and critically. The OP seemed to be looking for mainstream veterinary advice. This book is far from mainstream

There is some disagreement about the above book. See http://skeptvet.com/Blog/2015/06/canine-nutrigenomics-by-dr-jean-dodds-science-as-windowdressing/

The gabepentin doesn't seem to be helping Jarrah much. .. or at best, it's masking a further downhill slide. I bought another 20 days worth, but I'm afraid she's heading toward the rainbow bridge . (don't like the new emoticons... Can't find sad with tears).

In the days when I bred dogs I had a few buyers back out in the last week or so... after time wasting...so I started take deposits. Refundable if there was a serious reason (health problems, divorce...one of my buyers got murdered) but non-refundable if they simply forget or got another pup and forgot to cancel. $750 is very cheap for a designer dog puppy, but as others have suggested, the bargain bin may not be the best place to buy a puppy. See what you can find out about the sire and dam's health (have they been tested for anything) and make sure they have temperament that suits you before making a commitment. Ask for recommendations from past buyers. Hybrid vigor may or may not be real, but it won't fix everything.

Sounds good for a puppy. 14 is old, and Jasper could end out with pains before the pup is mature, but flatties tend to be very tolerant, and older dogs can teach a puppy to back off. Presuming the puppy is reasonably sensible. If you have trouble finding a Goldie, you might consider either a lab or a pointer (not a GSP, they're inclined to be very rambunctious)... or another flattie.

Chicken bones are fine...necks if Oscar is little, but watch at first to make sure he doesn't choke. If he swallow them whole and it looks like there is a choking danger, get out the meat cleaver. You don't need to worry about red meat bones to ensure minerals are adequate. Chicken works fine. Throughout history dogs have survived on scraps and refuse. They really are versatile eaters. My guess is you are fine with what you are feeding, though a few bones won't hurt.

https://www.huffingtonpost.com/entry/5-pound-dog-poodle-dies-saving-family-bear_us_5b8c1f75e4b0511db3d9de24

Jarrah (Labrador) is 14 and showing her age. Muscle atrophy, arthritis, walking painfully. I went to the vet to get some meds to make her a bit more comfortable. The vet prescribed both Carprieve (carprofen) and Nupentin (gabepentin). I've been giving her the carprofen, which is helping, but am hesitant to give her the gabepentin. I am on gabepentin for arthritis myself, and it mostly seems to make me drowsy and make it easier to get to sleep. It is definitely habit forming, if not addictive. With the amount of staggering Jarrah does, and her occasional difficulty getting on her feet, seems like the last thing she needs is pills to make her drowsy, and I'm afraid that if I start using it, she will suffer if I take her off. Curious. Has anyone else had gabepentin prescribed for their dog? If so, how has it worked out? P. S. I didn't put this in the senior dog section because I don't think anyone reads it.... Plus seems likely that gabepentin is getting prescribed for young dogs as well.

That's the unfortunate rough and tumble of dog breeding. Breeders often change their minds about what pup or pups they want to keep. But choosing the right stud and keeping the right pup are among the the most important decisions a breeder has to make. IMO, committing a specific pup at two weeks is a mistake, but we all make mistakes. Talk it over and be prepared to respect a decision made for good reason... wouldn't surprise me if there is one.

When I had a boarding kennel we had one regular Newfie. Sweet dog, but a matted, stinky mess. I'd say coats are extremely hard to maintain...and heavy shedding compared to Labs.

Actually, if you're doing the grain free thing, cat food might help prevent taurine deficiency .

1. Energy level is more important than size. I'd look for a mellow rescue. 2. While most dogs are social, an old dog who has been an only dog for many years may not appreciate company. Best if you can test him with a companion before making a commitment. 3. Get the dog YOU want. It will be with you for many years after Jax is gone.

May be of interest for some http://skeptvet.com/Blog/2018/07/evidence-update-promising-clinical-trial-of-cbd-for-arthritis-treatment-in-dogs/

You didn't ask for my opinion, but you might want to look at: http://skeptvet.com/Blog/2018/08/grain-free-diets-and-heart-disease-in-dogs/

Canis got domesticated as a scavenger. Yes, dogs have nutritional needs.... But they can thrive on a lot of things

Type of meat matters. If you want a pup to put on weight, find fattier cuts. They contain much more energy per kg than lean muscle. Often twice as much or more. Of course, not pure lard... But frames with skin and some fat globs along with the meaty bits are good I'd go by trial and error, and find the amount that keeps your pup at the right weight.

My brother has cork. They banned dogs from walking on it. It's too soft. Unless you keep toenails VERY short or use a vary hard coating, it will get damaged.

For me the alarm bell was the big list of supplements, including vitamins that dogs don't require, and the number of things like turmeric and green lipped muscles, that are trendy for humans. If they use good quality main ingredients, a bunch of supplements shouldn't be needed.

Not to be cynical but it sounds like a list designed to impress you, without a lot of research to determine whether it is good for the dog.

Sounds like tapeworm to me. Tapeworm requires a different wormer than other worms, and there are two species of tapeworm that can infect dogs. One is carried by fleas. It commonly reinfects. The other comes with eating the flesh of an infected animal. The meds required is different depending on the species. There's lots of information on the Web, and your veterinarian should know, also.

What age? It depends. By one year, xrays will give a pretty reliable picture of whether or not there are problems, thus allowing a decision about keeping her on as breeding stock. I don't know what age the GSD clubs require for hip scores, but it may be >12mo., meaning you'll have to do it again to be official. And then there's Penn hip scoring, which is commonly done at < 12mo. Talk to GSD club and do some reading (searching this forum may be worthwhile).

I saw this on the BBC and thought you should see it: Toddler mauled by dog dies in Australia - http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-australia-45040514

I have my doubts about Billingshurst. Anecdotes are not good evidence and he offers little more than anecdotes to back his arguments. It's probably been removed, but the original book included raisins in one of the barf patty recipes. His book on raising puppies advocated, if I remember rightly, whelping and raisng the litter in a big box of sawdust... Or was it woodchips? Some dogs thrive on the diet he advocates, others don't, and some dogs thrive on cheap supermarket food and tables scraps. There's far too little hard evidence. However, the need to balance mineral intake is well established and backed by considerable research.