Lowenhart

There are 2 forms of CPV, one that affects the mucus membranes and the other on the skin. Dogs normally have one or the other, not both. I've had a dog with skin based Papilloma's since puppy hood and never had it spread to another dog - he has bled, bitten, been bitten, mated, shared water bowls etc with other dogs and never once has it appeared on them. None of his offspring have it, neither do their offspring. However it is thought that ALL dogs carry it, those with suppressed immune systems allow for the papilloma's to grow. The vet hypothesised that my dog had a "whole" in his immune system when it came to CPV as he never came down with anything else (despite living an active, dog orientated life). I know the skin ones aren't lethal, annoying but not lethal. My dog would develop more if under stress (like I'd go overseas for 6 weeks) but they weren't a big deal at all. I've consulted with vet dermatologists and specialists of all sorts about it. Do not stress about CPV.

If you remember back last year I replied to your thread. We have a Lowchen who slipped a disc in her back, we didn't realise what she'd done until she was practically paralysed in the rear. Chiro (a very good one) and Raiiki didn't help, she had surgery by Richard Eaton-Wells. It was 6 weeks recovery, she was in a lot of pain for the first couple but at the end she came out super tops. She went on to whelp 4 litters (2 where singletons) easily, she gallops and plays and is now 8 years old. We kept her on Glucosimine/MSN/Condroiton over each winter and any sign of discomfort on her part (usually a reluctance to go down stairs) she is back in a small crate with a heat pad. Crating now is more preferable to surgery. But there are successful surgeries.

We've used Valerian for a hyper dog - made almost no difference. But no side-effects either. :rolleyes:

Ok, well I have decided I should get another dryer to deal with the fact I have a few more dogs in coat. I am looking for something to blow the water out of the coat but not the dog off the table. I don't need super-duper power and I don't want to spend more than $400. I was looking at the Liberty Ultraforce, but I have a bad history with Liberty dryers - the stand ones tend to spurt flames out the back in my presence :rolleyes: (this has happened to at least 3 different dryers!) so am a bit reluctant to buy one in case it decides it too would like to catch fire. I really only have worked with stand dryers previously and I have 3 x Simpson Supjets that I love, so I really need some advice. The limited times I used force dryers I didn't notice the brand. The dryer would need to run about 6 hours a week so it's not a heavy duty situation. Anyone know a good, not so forceful force dryer that will fit my budget?

I leased an adult Champion bitch who had both her upper baby canines retained. By the time I sent her home, she'd lost one of them! I gave her a bit of pigs ear every night and cleaned her teeth (got rid of any junk holding the baby to the adult tooth), I think if she'd stayed longer the second one would have come out of it's own accord too. I have also seen the retained baby affect the bite, if it's a 'close' one. So you have to watch it carefully.

Straight human stuff I don't recommend. The shampoo is too harsh and the conditioner to thick to do any good. I do a 1 part shampoo to 10 part warm water, I use the plastic "sauce" bottles you can buy for BBQ's and picnics. We've been using human stuff for a long time now, at least the early 80's. That's keeping Afghans in coat for years on end, I'm not trying to swindle you here, I am just sharing my experience. Honestly it depends on the coat, because different stuff works for on different hair. The stuff we buy you can only get from the hairdresser's supplier ;) For stuff from the supermarket, I like a creamy opaque shampoo (not clear) for Coloured or Permed Hair. Same for conditioner, the stuff for Permed or Coloured Hair. You may try a few brands (and you can use the left overs if they don't work!).

Not a knee operation by Dr Richard Eaton-Wells did spinal surgery on one of our dogs (Lowchen). I trust this guy completely. As I said in another post, he's a genius. We have been using him for years, before he was a specialist when he had only a small surgery. Basically he tells you straight, is gentle and caring with the dogs and charges by the armful. But worth every penny.

I know a number of doggy brands source their stock from human factories - that is, chances are what is in your doggy brand bottle is in your human brand stuff. I buy my Shampoo/Conditioner from a hairdresser's supplier. Get it in bulk and it works out quite cost effective if I have a number in coat (which I do). With Pantene, I really only recommend the Pantene Intensive Protein Treatment Conditioner - I find it the best of that range. The pH myth is null-and-void when you consider the pH of the water you use to wash the dogs in, and if you dilute the Shampoo/Conditioner (which I always do) in water, it brings it closer to the pH of the water. The pH of dog's skin also varies and can be close to human. My thinking is, if the water is not damaging the skin then the diluted Shampoo/Conditioner won't. I never recommend Human stuff without diluting and most human sourced doggy brands have directions about diluting it. I have long coated dogs who have been washed in Human stuff for their entire life. I have a 13 year old Lowchen bitch with coat to the ground - no damage there from the Shampoo/Conditioner. Surely it would be evident by now!

Dr Richard Eaton-Wells The guy's a genius.

We always use conditioner - human stuff diluted in warm water. Then brush out and blow dry

Best dryer I found for Afghans is the Simpson Supajet stand dryer. If you can pick them up second hand, they are a bargain. They last 30+years. Melbourne Dog Centre dryers last about 7-8 years, are good but can be a bit strong as the coat gets longer. As an aside "Force Dryers" cause a lot of tangles in really long coat if you aren't careful. Liberty stand dryers are OK except every time I go near one they seem to catch on fire (I think it's me ) Laser Lites are advertising a dryer that they claim is almost as good as a Simpson, don't know how much they are charging though. Second hand is a great way to go, check out the classifieds in the big newspapers and here on DOL. We got a 5 year old Simpson Supajet from DOL classifieds last year, it's very handy (to go with our 2 x 30 year old ones LOL).

In a big growing dog, or in a dog that has just done a big "shoot up" in height, their knee caps are loose. I had a young vet try to tell me my 13 week old Afghan had a bone diease because her knees were loose and she cried when you touched any joint. She was just being an Afghan, and the knees? Par for the course on a big dog. I would wait, honestly, until the dog has finished growing. Don't rush surgery, it's pretty tough on the dog and if it can be avoided - avoid it.

I use a pin bush which is the exact same pin brush Plush Puppy sells, except I get it at half the price Mostly the brushes last 6 months (I have a decent number of dogs in coat, in 2 breeds), which at the money I am spending, is really cost effective. I also don't have to worry if somene steals one! That is always the stress with #1 All Systems, CC or Mason Pearsons - people are very willing to walk off with yours if you don't pay attention.

You guys know Laser Lites is just human shampoo, right? And I suspect most of Plush Puppy is too. There is no harm in Human Shampoo if it is well diluted in water. PH thing is thrown out when you look at it this way - Water is supposed to be PH Neutral. By making a solution of Acid and Water, you make the a Acid Solution that has a more neutral PH. Same with Alkaline Go grab a bottle of Laser Lites, check out the dilution rates. Usually 10 parts water to 1 part Shampoo/Conditioner. At this rate, Human Shampoo/Conditioner is just fine on the skin and coat. I personally seen dogs bathed weekly, sometimes twice weekly in Human branded stuff for over 20 years and never seen ANY problems. Woolmix? Never used it...

I actually have been having good success with Australian Bush Flower Essences. They seem to 'kick in' quicker than Bach.

Anesthetic causes coat drop, so any sort of surgery requiring it will result in some coat drop. It should grow back, perhaps to a more 'puppy-like' texture due to the changes in hormones in his body.

And the vets ruled out "Growing Pains"? I know of young dogs who were lame because they drank bore water (heavily laiden with minerals) and ate a premium dog food (also laiden with minerals). Put the dog onto a lighter food (I think a basic adult one, or a senior one) and the lameness dissapeared. I can't think of the proper name for the problem, but this has been ruled out?

Hey Poodlefan - I have never had clipper burn from a 30 on a Lowchen. I'm a bit of a Parti fan so I am used to the unpigmented bums. Many people will even use a 40 on the Lowchen, thats when you see clipper burn! Tramissa - 10's aren't too bad to use but you have to clip more often. I use 10's on Babies though, or when the 30 is blunt. Keep your eyes on classifieds. I lean towards Osters only because we've had them 30+ years, I have heard raves about Andis but if the Wahls are in your price range... Mini looks good! Don't fuss about that foot... you'd be hard pressed to find a nice Lowchen who doesn't have a foot that turns out slightly. I find the hardest thing to do on Lowchen are feet & 'jewels'. I do 'jewels', feet, belly/inside backlegs, forelegs then butt in that order so the blade is cooler for the sensitive parts (never EVER put a hot blade near a dogs 'jewels' :D ). Not that you hae to worry about jewels yet, the girly bits aren't so delicate. Your welcome to visit either of my Lowchen sites Tramissa

Hey, What clippers/blades you need depends on what trim you want to do. For the signature Lion Trim I suggest a 30 or 15 Oster blade or equivilant (depends on how short you like their arses and the sex - boys prefer 15 or 10 for their jewels). I use the normal 30 blade to clip feet but I learnt using the foot blade and relearnt when the foot blade died. I use Oster clippers but others recommend Andis. It is a personal (and financial) thing, you could try and pick up a set of second hand clippers in good working order if you aren't doing multitudes of dogs. Any specific questions you can PM me!

I don't like the Dentabones and tend to gently lead people away from them when out shopping... I would suggest as indoor treats: Pig's Ears Kong Toy (even when empty, the dogs like to really give them a good work over) Big Hard Biscuits - usually bone shaped (avoid the ones with red dye) I give chicken wings/necks as well but they aren't the sort you want on the carpet so are usually given 'in crate' or on their dinner plates.