ellz

Chocolate Onion Macadamia Nuts Avocado (all parts) - the toxic ingredient in avocado is called persin (toxic amount unknown). Symptoms include difficulty breathing, abdominal enlargement, abnormal fluid accumulations in the chest, abdomen and sac around the heart. Pear pips, the kernels of plums, peaches and apricots, apple core pips (contain cyanogenic glycosides resulting in cyanide posioning) Potato peelings and green looking potatoes Rhubarb leaves Mouldy/spoiled foods Alcohol Yeast dough Coffee grounds, beans & tea (caffeine) Hops (used in home brewing) Tomato leaves & stems (green parts) Broccoli (in large amounts) Raisins and grapes Cigarettes, tobacco and cigars Xylitol (sweetener often found in sugar-free gum) Cooked bones of ANY kind – particularly chops and chicken and the leftover bone from the Sunday Roast which will normally become very brittle and could splinter, causing gum and stomach damage Large amounts of raw egg white Grapes, raisins and sultanas Large amounts of bread Ham and processed meats (such as salami and silverside) hich are high in salt and chemicals. Coffee and tea

I don't know if it is now but I do recall hearing/reading somewhere that microchipping will be an ANKC requirement for registration in 2011 or something like that.

I had to get Vanni done so that I could register Alice. Had them both done at the same time by the TCA microchipper ($20 each). Did the 9 Stafford babies then as well. It was hilarious. We barricaded off part of the office, locked the doors and let them loose. Nice little assembly line we had going on the desk at the office. Judy doing the writing, me wrangling puppies, Tull doing the chipping and Kerry doing the holding and scanning. Then we wrote Vanni's and Alice's numbers on Alice's rego application and I put that in as well.

Yep, that is the case! You can lodge the litter application but until you provide the microchip numbers for each individual puppy being registered, they will not issue registration papers. And they will also NOT accept registration applications if the dam has not been microchipped or if the dog is from one of the states where microchipping is compulsory. ellz, Does this mean that I will have to get my 5 year old micro chipped before I breed her. Micro chipping was not a thing one did when she was born. As it was purely oppional and she wasn't going anywhere I never had her done. Yes, she'll have to be chipped or you won't be able to register the litter.

My oldest first-timer was almost 5 (Vanni only recently) and I don't think I'll leave a bitch that long again. Cockers I'd prefer around the 2.5 - 3 year mark. Staffords 18 months - 2 years for their first. Just my opinion of course but it works for me.

No, but my recent Stafford litter (they're 11 weeks old now) came VERY close. Bitch went into labour on Day 58 from her first mating and had a c-section early on Day 59. All of the placentas had started to separate and 2 of the puppies had meconium in their sacs. 2 of the puppies also had double sacs so conceivably my litter of 9 COULD have been a litter of 11. The vet commented that if I had waited until the next day, or even a couple more hours I would probably have no puppies at all instead of 9 healthy squirmers.

I also leave my details on as second notification point. At least if the dog is picked up and scanned and the owner is not contactable then they can contact me. Chances are I will either arrange to have the dog collected or alternatively (hopefully) have some means of contacting the owner and then remind them to change their address/phone details with CAR.

Yep, that is the case! You can lodge the litter application but until you provide the microchip numbers for each individual puppy being registered, they will not issue registration papers. And they will also NOT accept registration applications if the dam has not been microchipped or if the dog is from one of the states where microchipping is compulsory.

Is there a website, or a good book you can recommend to learn "plaiting in the round"?

Ooh I think there's one for sale on the classies! ETA: It's the old version. I think I'll hold out for the 2009 revised edition. Check out Amazon.com for the new edition. I purchased one just before Christmas and it cost (including postage and x-rate) $40AUD. AND it took only 5 days to get here from the USA. Editing to add: Another one for the more advanced dog person is Rick Beauchamp's "Solving the Mysteries of Breed Type". VERY interesting reading! :thumbups:

I'd say that is probably the case Aziah. It'd be more complicated and a two or more step procedure which would need human intervention to "twiddle" dates so that the system would accept it.

If he is eliminating that quickly after being outside, then you obviously aren't staying outside for long enough with him to ensure that he IS empty before coming back inside again.

When did that ruling come in BB? A few years ago now, I mated a bitch to my stud dog and then leased her back to her breeder in whelp and as far as I can recall she had no problems registering the litter in her name.

I don't know about NSW but I have literally just registered Bad Alice and transferred her mother's lease at the same time (and backdated the lease transfer as well). And my 2005 litter were born here in Tasmania after the bitch was mated in Qld and transferred to me at the same time. I think you'll probably find that the ruling that says something about a bitch being in the ownership of the "breeder" at the time of the birth of the litter covers the question. As long as the bitch is registered in your name at the time of the birth of the puppies, it doesn't matter how far in advance the transfer is done.

For the "uninitiated" a male is usually a better bet for a number of reasons. Most importantly, the novice show exhibitor is almost 150% more likely to be able to acquire a good quality male to try their hand in the ring than they are an equal quality bitch (unless they've got a sh!tload of money to spend and want to be tied up in more strings than a macrame potplant holder!). A good male is an excellent way to test your toe in the show ring waters, see if you like it, experience the highs (and many lows) of dog shows and learn the particular care, preparation and handling that it takes for your breed. And believe me, just because they are "boring old Staffords" doesn't mean that they don't require WORK to get them into show condition and keep them that way. You can take some shortcuts with a long coat but when it is all on display with a short coated dog, the underneath bit of the package has to be spot on, or the outside doesn't gleam and ripple with muscle the way it should! A good male will also be an excellent way to learn how to research pedigrees and get your "eye" in on the breed so that when the time comes to decide whether or not you would REALLY like to breed (and do it properly) you will have a better chance of getting yourself a quality bitch. And that includes finding out which lines are free whelpers or which have issues that you wouldn't like to reproduce in your own breeding program. And to be honest, in some breeds, a male is sooooooooooooooooooo much more pleasant to live with too. IMO Stafford bitches are essentially a "necessary evil". I love my girls but they ARE just that.....EVIL!!

I'd also like to add that breeding and exhibiting dogs isn't necessarily a "part time" thing. You can't just do it when the children are in school. To maintain a show dog in fit, healthy condition and to give proper care to a brood bitch and her litter aren't things that will happen on a timetable. You need to be able to be flexible and you will find that you can't just schedule things to happen during the times that the children are in school. Dogs just don't read timetables or rule books.

I'm going to buck the trend. I feed Optimum to my 9 Stafford puppies and am absolutely THRILLED with their condition. Output is minimal. Two fairly small, nicely shaped stools per day from each puppy of a very good consistency and no real associated odour. I wouldn't feed Supercoat of ANY kind to any of my dogs under any circumstances any more. I used to be a diehard Supercoat supporter but it really lost quality a few years back and I've not bothered with it since.

I do C3 at 8, 12 and 16 weeks.

Most likely heartworm..........They get a puppy one and update at six months If that's the case, then if it were MY dog I'd be saying a big fat NO!! I'm not a believer in heartworm shots. I think the risks outweigh the supposed benefits. I'd rather take the responsibility for daily or monthly heartworming.

OK first of all. Stafford fronts are slightly different from many other breeds in that the front feet do NATURALLY turn out slightly. They don't face fully to the front and it does mention that in the standard. Given that the puppy is 6 months old and lacks chest development, I personally don't think that the front/legs are too bad at this stage. Others may disagree but for my part, for a companion Stafford, I don't see a huge problem with the front itself. Vitamin C supplementation might help, but avoid bulking up on too much calcium which can create even more issues. The natural calcium you are giving is a good way to start though. When you say mashed veges...do you mean COOKED mashed veges? If so, stop the cooking you are removing a lot of the natural goodness. Better to mince or put them through a juicer and feed the pulp. The feet however are a different thing altogether. For a start, the toenails are WAY too long and it is partly this that would be causing the obviously already flat toes to spread. This can also contribute to the weakening of the pasterns (wrists). Those nails need to be shortened and KEPT short. The mother's front foot is dreadful and I have to question why anybody would be breeding from her. IMO, that front foot alone (unless it occurred in an accident and the rest of the bitch is spot on), would have eliminated her from my breeding program!

They are a reputable company who have been around for a long time. As with anything though, shop around and compare prices for big tag purchases.

Another approach would be for you to tell us the breeds that you like and then information can be given as to whether or not people consider they are suitable for your needs.

I have no idea. You'd be best asking your vet. It's the first time I've heard mention of it. Maybe it is Lepto or something but I would think that would be done annually if at all. Could it be heartworm which can be given daily, monthly or yearly (preferably monthly??).

My vet does 8wks, 12wks, 16wks, 12 months.

Well, if it isn't the breeder of the Cav wanting to swap for a kitten, then I'd be concerned and irritated too. BUT...I confess that a few years ago, I bred a litter of purebred Burmese kittens. At the time, a breeder had a lovely litter of American Cocker puppies. Her husband wanted a Burmese. So we swapped a puppy for a kitten. We both got what we wanted.