ellz

Yes, basically because the files are a lot larger so it takes longer for the camera to process and save them.

What it means is that the siblings are probably even worse and you may have gotten off lightly!

No, I don't think bonding happens at the breeders. It take some time to form a bond. It also takes time away from litter mates and in your home to develop. I think breeders will generally do a far better job of selecting a pup than buyers. They've had weeks to observe the litter. Buyers only get snapshots. I think temperament is partially inherited and partially shaped by training and environment. Breed DEFINITELY plays a part (after all temperament is one of the things selectively bred for) and that's the reason why people need to have an understanding of typical breed temperament when selecting their breed of choice. Incompatibility is a real possibility and contributes IMO to unwanted dogs. Ummm...confused.....that quote isn't mine???? Sorry Ellz.. brain in neutral. I'll fix it. S'ok. It's Monday!!

No, I don't think bonding happens at the breeders. It take some time to form a bond. It also takes time away from litter mates and in your home to develop. I think breeders will generally do a far better job of selecting a pup than buyers. They've had weeks to observe the litter. Buyers only get snapshots. I think temperament is partially inherited and partially shaped by training and environment. Breed DEFINITELY plays a part (after all temperament is one of the things selectively bred for) and that's the reason why people need to have an understanding of typical breed temperament when selecting their breed of choice. Incompatibility is a real possibility and contributes IMO to unwanted dogs. Ummm...confused.....that quote isn't mine????

My belief is that overall temperature is going to dictate future behaviour but that input from the mother can certainly influence things like the way a puppy relates to humans, whether or not it sees certain things as a threat, how it "fits" into the environment. If the dam is well-socialised and has a balanced outlook on life with no phobias or major fears, then she is going to approach life in a more confident and outgoing way, and so will her puppies because they will follow her example and be reassured by her actions. And believe it or not, I have a firm opinion that toilet training can be "in bred" too. I don't recommend that people who are seeking a house dog, consider a puppy from breeders whose dogs are SOLELY kennel dogs. My experience over many years has been that dogs from kennel-bred lines can be VERY challenging to toilet train. Anecdotal, but my firm opinion.

Lots of observation of the interaction between littermates and their dam, as well as how they interact with the people in my family and also the way they respond to different things that happen in their environment. And yes, parents, particularly the dam play a huge part. Temperament inheritance is a much debated subject, ie nature vs nurture. I do believe that temperament is inherited which is why I look for good temperament in both parents, but overall the dam has such a strong influence on how the puppies turn out, as do the people who are present in the formative stages of the puppies lives.

No, I honestly think that a breeder who knows their lines, and knows how their puppies develop is the best person to attempt to match a puppy to a person at that age. That's one of the reasons you need to trust the breeder and you absolutely MUST fully disclose your TRUE personality so as to enable the breeder to make the best recommendation! And yes, it is very possible to not bond with a dog. I have had dogs that no matter what I do, we just don't "'click" and yet others with whom there has been an instant attachment. It's not dissimilar to meeting other people, some you are drawn to and others take a lot more work.

Nobody should ever have to justify what they charge for their puppies. A person is either willing to pay the price asked, or they will go elsewhere, nobody is twisting their arm.

That isn't always possible.

I've used Jetpets and until recently found them to be more expensive than Dogtainers. I've used Dogtainers but only ever book through Dogtainers ACT. I sent a puppy to Japan recently using Dogtainers ACT and was MORE than happy with the service from beginning to end and it was a process that took over a month to accomplish. From the initial lodgement of paperwork in Japan right through to the day the puppy left Tasmania en route to Japan via Sydney, there were no problems whatsoever. More recently, I've used the services of DOLer wayrod and I have to say that the service (and prices) that I've received from him have been exemplary and I will definitely use him again should the need arise in the future.

Thanks Allerzeit. I'm just at a very big crossroad and I'm really not sure what direction to take at the moment. :D

Many/most bitches have a lower gestational temperature range. It's quite normal. Anything below 37 could be a sign of whelping, but only if it is a SUDDEN drop so don't necessarily just look for a 36.7 temp because you may not see it. Also important is that some bitches have a slight rise in temperature during the last days of gestation. This is normal as well, as long as it doesn't suddenly spike and they start showing other symptoms of illness.

Ya piker! Nope....only got one dog to show anyway and since Flame was stolen I've really pretty much lost the urge. I haven't even renewed my TCA membership yet. To be honest, not even sure that I will.

Not me!

Pound next time JSK. See what she'd rather have, a late fee on a DVD or a hefty council fine to spring her dogs from gaol!

Emailed you a couple.

Perhaps you could send them vouchers instead. ie... if You use Artemis (as I do), then you could ask if they could sell you a voucher so that the puppy buyer could redeem in their state. In other words rather than getting a bag of food Artemis the puppy buyers gets a voucher to the value of a bag of food - this would be attached to a list of suppliers in their state Vouchers are a good idea in essence...but....I thought the point of sending a puppy off with food in it's puppy pack was to ensure that it had what is currently in it's diet on hand, so that the new owners didn't change it's diet suddenly by ripping out to the only supermarket that's open, when they got home and realised they didn't have anything to feed the new baby!! Sometimes people get a bit forgetful and disorganised when they're excited. As you all know the first day in a new home is not the time to change pups diet. It gives them some time to do it gradually if they choose to. Prior to my puppies leaving home, I email (or post) a "shopping list" of supplies to have on hand when the puppy comes home. This is duplicated in the puppy guide but it gives the new owners something to follow ahead of time as well.

Lesson to you Rajacadoo-doo-doo, put on your site that you only provide food for the local ones or it will cost you a fortune! I don't like attaching anything to the crate because things invariably become DE-tached en route. I tie a slip lead to the handle of the crate securely and put the rest in an Aust Post satchel and send it via the mail if I can't hand it over in person.

I know, but I'm not kidding......she looks mouldy!!

Hi becks, I agree with you however the things we include in our packs will generally only last the puppy for a short time. For us its merely a small gift for his/her new family. And with some breeds, it is also making sure that the puppy has what is suitable.

Glad he's ok. Just on the subject of distemper (aka hardpad). I recall reading somewhere not too long ago that distemper had actually been seen again in some areas.

http://www.dolforums.com.au/index.php?show...63&hl=puppy

Yes, pure Crabbet. Filly is greying out now, she'll end up white like her mother. Her 3/4 sister on the other hand (same sire, mother is niece of the white mare) is bay and will stay that way. 50/50 chance of a foal out of a grey turning grey. Here she is....now a 2yo and looking like she is growing penicillin and is covered in a nice mist of mould.

OK, I would say from the description that you would be best off with a pin brush and a good quality comb. I highly recommend Plush Puppy pin brushes and you can get small, medium and large "butter" combs from ebay. Slicker brushes are generally used for long coats to enable you to remove undercoat and get right to the skin. Basically, if you can see skin easily on a dog then a slicker brush isn't what you need. Feathering (and long hair around ears and head and tail) if not completely knotted and almost inpenetrable is best dealt with using the pin brush, followed by the comb and then the pin brush again. Any knots you can gently tease out with the end teeth of the comb.

Doggyman slickers are amongst the softest there is. Well, if it isn't the correct brush for their coat type.....you pretty much ARE!