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Some motels accept dogs, as do caravan parks etc. Many people camp. Some stay with friends.

If she has lots of milk and he hasn't been feeding, then her teats may well be too large for him and too hard for him to successfully drain. I'd keep holding him on her for periods through the day, despite his weak sucking reflex and tube him the rest of the time.

I had every intention of keeping and taking care of my father's two dogs. Sadly, one of them had to be PTS only days after my father died due to massive health issues. The other was euthanased last week. He wasn't coping well, his eyesight and hearing had deteriorated in the past few weeks and he wasn't doing well with the travelling between my home and my father's home on the coast. It broke my heart but I did what had to be done. My will states that my Stafford boy is to be euthanased and cremated with me.

Don't take it to heart. For every judge who will make you feel like a tool, there are at least two who will happily laugh with you. ;)

They remove the testicles, not the penis. I've known of a desexed male that has actually tied with a female. Not sure who was the most shocked, her, me or him!

Tube feed him rather than trying to bottle him. Sucking uses energy, energy is needed for growth.

Errrmmmmm......the only thing I can see wrong here is the vet staff recommending ANYTHING on a pregnant bitch at 10 weeks because it would probably all be over by then as the gestation is around 9 weeks! :laugh: And, there is essentially nothing wrong whatsoever in having an xray in the 8th/9th week of a pregnancy. It is the best way to count skulls and see placement, especially if there is a risk that there may be whelping issues due to size disparity or other maternal issues.

But on the other hand, it may not BE the mucous plug...I've had girls who have had a "slimy" discharge (like egg white) for some days prior to whelping.

MOST bitches drop below 37. However, the exception is the bitches who have a normally higher or even lower temperature (normal temp is 38.5 but this can vary from 37.2 - 39.2 depending upon the individual). The only way to know for sure is to take temperatures for a week or so prior so that you can establish a baseline for your bitch. Then when the temp drops around a full degree in one hit (not a gradual creeping down) it is a fairly reliable indication that whelping will begin with 12 - 24 hours. Many people miss the drop, it doesn't necessarily STAY down.

Just remember above everything else that he is still a puppy and NEEDS to be a puppy. Nobody expects a puppy of that age to be an instant, robotic Best In Show winner. Give him time and don't be too hard on himself, or YOURSELF. It is very possible to learn "on the job".......

Club websites (there is at least one in every State except Tasmania), Stafford rescue links.

If you don't already have it in your library, I strongly suggest getting hold of a copy of the book Everydog. It's an Australian book. A bit dated in some areas but has really good information about whelping in it. This was my bible when I first started out. I had umpteen dozen others but this one was the one I kept coming back to.

If she hasn't already whelped you could try taking her temperature. Take it minimum 3 times per day and record it. Graph style as per hospital chart is useful. When it dips below 37 dramatically, ie don't worry about gradual dips, it has to be an obvious plunge, then you will probably have whelping begin 12 - 24 hours later. Many people say this doesn't work but I've been doing it religiously with my girls for some years now and have it worked out and it most definitely DOES work on the majority of bitches. Keeping the records has also been useful when things have gone pearshaped and required veterinary intervention because vets have been able to immediately see when/where things started to go badly and what they need to do at that moment to make things right (ie temp dips, temp spikes, contractions, water breaking, panting, nesting etc). Some bitches also keep to a pattern so your information this time may help next time.

I don't know about 'bursts'. Mine, and many others I know, are non stop energy. Greatly depends upon the individual. I've had ones where you pray you find the off switch, yet I've had others who manage to get fit moving from sunbaking spot to sunbaking spot in the yard. That said, the "usual" energy levels of the breed are part of the charm and nobody has a truly functioning crystal ball to pick one that is going to stay laidback. Much of the personality comes from the environment. And the energy levels and renowned escapism talents of the Stafford are other reasons why I personally don't think the breed necessarily suited to the OP.

Staffords don't come in black and I'd highly recommend a reputable rescue organisation or a reputable breeder over a pound puppy if you are going to look at a Stafford. Personally I'd also not recommend a Stafford for the OP based on some of the criteria as well, mainly the offlead beach and park. Your Stafford may be as reliable as the sun coming up, but it won't stop the issues created by other dogs and their owners. sorry to go OT and please excuse my ignorance, but are all black 'staffords' mixed then? There is someone in my area who walks two black dogs which I thought were staffords. Genetically there is no such thing as a "pure black" Stafford. Even the darkest looking black Stafford is still a black/brindle.

Staffords don't come in black and I'd highly recommend a reputable rescue organisation or a reputable breeder over a pound puppy if you are going to look at a Stafford. Personally I'd also not recommend a Stafford for the OP based on some of the criteria as well, mainly the offlead beach and park. Your Stafford may be as reliable as the sun coming up, but it won't stop the issues created by other dogs and their owners.

Yes, I was looking at those show stackers!! they look difficult to use, im scared he would fall off..... because Gus is soooooo active and a wriggly bum the command "sit" gets him everywhere in life... just because its been so difficult to keep him from jumping and all the rest so asking him to sit is our best hope.... hahah I didn’t teach "stand" as such for a while mainly because I just forgot its importance being new to owning a show dog and a pup for myself and not my families dog it was a little different and unfortunately i learnt a little late what I had to do...but hopefully with a lot more practice Gus and I will get there...I think Kikopup does a nice standing lesson... I might try her but everyone has been so helpful thanks :) That is part of the purpose of showstackers. They quickly learn that they CAN'T wriggle on them. If you taught "sit" reliably then use the same principles to teach "stand" and you'll be fine. You don't have to lay out the expense of showstackers either. 4 supersized tins of pineapple, beetroot or whatever placed where they can't slide is just as adequate in the short term. :)

Personally I don't think a TT is the breed you are looking for. In my own personal experience with them, I'd say they are more Spitz-like than Terrier-like, and many Spitz breeds have painted on ears, insane stubborn streaks and an amazing sense of humour, so off-lead could lead to a battle of wills with you not always winning the battle. They are very intelligent but it can take a lot of patience and skill TO train them because they don't see themselves as the underdog, more as an equal so you have to equally as smart! :laugh: Also, unless you want to keep it clipped off, or are prepared for lots of grooming, swimming with a TT isn't necessarily going to happen either. I'd also be a tad reluctant to not have a bit of a yard for a TT as my experience of them has seen them to be a quite energetic bubbly breed that like a decent-sized, enclosed yard to womble about in and have zoomies as and when needed and they can be very athletic as well so escaping a small courtyard may not be a problem for one who really wanted to be elsewhere. Awesome breed though, big bark for a small dog. Not yappy but not backwards about letting you know if somebody is about.

Just something that popped into my head from the depths of my memory bank.....shampoo opens the cuticles of the hair and conditioner closes them and seals and protects from damage and breakage. Maybe not correct but it was sitting there for some reason! Will no doubt be corrected if I'm wrong! :laugh:

I wouldn't worry about it unless it becomes a regular thing. If you're really concerned about it though, maybe an eye check could be in order? Sometimes dogs with failing vision act differently in some circumstances. It really could be anything though, she might have just caught the bone coming at her out of the corner of her eye, her attention may have been elsewhere or any other reasonable explanation.

I always use conditioner, even on my Stafford. Mind you, I dilute both shampoo and conditioner very heavily for him. He doesn't get bathed much between shows either. Since diluting everything and following with a vinegar rinse, I've had no issues with scurf on show days. As for the Lowchen, every week (except for the last month since my dad died when he has been somewhat neglected)in the bath, shampoo and conditioner. And every night, spot cleaning of face and belly (and ankle bracelets if he has misaimed at pee-time). If it takes longer to dry a dog after you have used conditioner, you've possibly either used too much or not rinsed out well enough I'd say.

I have ordered from Peperone in the past but only wanted a couple of pieces this time so I ordered from Anabel at the Wolf's Den. Excellent prices and service and the pieces can be cut to order. Postage very reasonable too!

For a fit and active dog, no. But on the other hand I wouldn't recommend somebody just pull a senior citizen out of cobwebs and suddenly decide they want a litter by him with no planning or forethought. They might be lucky, but they just as likely won't be.

:laugh: could create a few monsters I'd imagine...

Semen quality definitely deteriorates with age. I believe it also deteriorates with inactivity, so "use it or lose it" applies. As I said above, I'd want to see recent puppies or a proper semen evaluation done before I'd pay a stud fee or count on a "special" litter sired by a dog of that age. But it isn't impossible.