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Everything posted by ellz
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Could be genetic. There are some lines of Staffords which tend to have rather scrambled teeth. There are others which have inverted canines. I'm afraid short of expensive dental surgery there probably isn't much you can do about it. Once those adult teeth come in, being permanent teeth, they're there to stay.
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Anaphylactic Reaction To Bee Stings!
ellz replied to goldielover's topic in Health / Nutrition / Grooming
I'd certainly check with your regular vet. Certainly injectables get into the system quicker than oral meds. And you saw how quickly she went downhill. The problem is that you don't know now if the beesting was enough to desensitise her (the latest "buzzword" in allergies) or if it is enough that next time could be fatal. Either way, be prepared. Better to be safe than sorry. Glad she's ok now. It would have been frightening for you all. -
Believe me, I can relate! A few other DOLers have seen this photo...it has been posted on numerous occasions in the past. However for those who haven't seen it.....THIS is the reason my dogs must be bathed so often....can you imagine this on your bed??? ETA: BTW, SOMEWHERE in the brown water in the bathtub is a black American Cocker Spaniel!!!!
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Well, ALL of my dogs, including my "smelly ones" are on a good diet. They wouldn't grow hair and be as shiny as they are otherwise. My Stafford (and Rottweiler) rarely get bathed unless they have rolled in horse sh!t or something equally as pleasant. I don't mind the smell but I do object to the extra laundry because Dolly Stafford sleeps on my bed and rides in the car every day when I go to do the horse-paddock bit. The long-coats MUST be bathed religiously or they don't grow hair. As they are either actively being shown or being grown in for show purposes, it is important that they stay clean because dirty coat matts and clean coat grows. They do tend to get a bit "doggy" smelling if not bathed, but are more often than not "earthy" rather than doggy having spent the majority of their time digging holes and generally acting like fat pigs in the mudholes they create in my backyard. Not good for show coats, but they're happy and that is my main concern. My house is grotty enough without them dragging dirty hair around for a long time between baths. And yes, my house smells but nothing that a good vaccuum, kitty litter tray empty, fresh air and heaps of oil and incense won't take care of!! Anyway, if you ask me, my kids stink worse than my dogs do!
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Dolly Stafford gets a bath whenever she needs it...depends upon whether or not she has been to the horse paddock and rolled in anything. The American Cockers are bathed weekly. They smell very doggy very quickly otherwise and if it has been damp, their coats begin to take on the aroma of wet carpet. And besides, they're easier to keep in coat if they're clean because dirt attracts more dirt and causes knots and hair loss.
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My dogs are bathed weekly and I empty anal glands when they're in the bath. No real dramas whatsoever. They just get that "oh here we go again" look on their face and then it is over with in an instant and "the evidence" is simply hosed down the drain.
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Just to add, I use it a LOT. My cats drink it and the kitty litter trays aren't as offensive. My dogs drink it and they don't smell as much, particularly the boys and the girls don't leave those attractive burnt rings on the grass. I also give it to my horses and have in fact just purchased a huge big container of natural ACV which is mixed with garlic - will see how it goes with the animals. I drink it warm with honey and I haven't had a UTI for years (used to be VERY prone to them once!). Simply excellent stuff!
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Check to see that the manufacturer hasn't altered the formulation of the ACV. I recently found that the one I used to get had added preservatives.
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Hi Debs Excellent news that it was "just" a cherry eye and nothing else sinister. Let us know how it all goes.
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I'd be seeking a vets advice, especially if you've pushed it back in and it keeps reappearing. The risk with third eye prolapse (cherry eye) is the eye drying out. If the membrane is exposed for too long it can prevent it from being successfully tacked back into place and often then requires surgical removal.
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Some breeds with a looser eye have a predisposition towards it. It can be hereditary. It can be caused by stress and is quite common in some breeds at teething time.
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If it is what I THINK it is, sounds like a cherry eye to me (prolapsed third eyelid). He'll probably need to have it tacked into place if it keeps appearing. http://www.eyevet.info/cherry.html
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Not related to dogs but may give food for thought. Most horse nutrionists recommend feeding horses from ground level to help avoid air emboli which can also contribute to colic. Also Shek, you can purchase Glucosamine and Vit C from Health Food shops or even from the supermarket. And if you're in town check out the Pharmacy Warehouse because they're really good on prices as well.
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Shek are you adding Glucosamine and Vitamin C to his food? They were some of the things that were HIGHLY stressed as being necessary to support rapid growth in the breed by Luther's breeder. ETA: What were his parent's feet like? Sometimes flat/splayed feet are genetic. DAMN my father for giving me the gene for dropped arches!!
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hehe...trust you to notice!
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The only time I have problems is when I take too much bed, snore or fart too much....then the dog complains.
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Which One Should I Use First? What Is The Differen
ellz replied to GOM's topic in Health / Nutrition / Grooming
GOM, unless you are actively showing, you really don't NEED "top of the line" products for your dogs. You need a good quality slicker brush (I recommend the "Doggyman" slickers which are hard to get but there are other soft slickers on the market), a good quality pin brush (which doesn't need to cost you $60 when you can pay under $20) and a good quality comb. The comb you already have but I'd ditch the pin brush with the knobs on the ends of the pins and I'd get rid of that slicker. It looks to be very hard backed with no "give" to the pins. I can't remember where you live but if you can get to a dog show, check out some of the vendor vans which will have pretty much everything you need. -
Which One Should I Use First? What Is The Differen
ellz replied to GOM's topic in Health / Nutrition / Grooming
I'm not a good one to ask. I personally don't like them. A lot of money to spend when there are comparable brushes on the market which are cheaper. You might like to look at the PSI range for a start. I've just been sent a Plush Puppy pin brush which I'm trialling and that seems to be pretty good so far too. -
Which One Should I Use First? What Is The Differen
ellz replied to GOM's topic in Health / Nutrition / Grooming
Er, actually GOM, they are all the SAME breed....even if they don't look like it in some cases. I was talking about the presentation, not the breed itself. -
Which One Should I Use First? What Is The Differen
ellz replied to GOM's topic in Health / Nutrition / Grooming
GOM I think I understand where you are coming from. You've possibly been looking at photos of some of the Goldens in the USA who have flat and straight back coat from the back of their heads to their tails. I'm afraid the majority of them have been stripped and scissored that way. I don't know how Australian exhibitors feel about that but I'm not 100% in favour of it because I truly believe that it ruins the waterproofing qualities of the Retriever coat. Your dogs are lovely the way they are. -
Which One Should I Use First? What Is The Differen
ellz replied to GOM's topic in Health / Nutrition / Grooming
katek, if it were me I would be using the pin brush first, the slicker brush only (and very gently) on areas where there are twizzles and the comb all over. Sometimes the brush just loosens the hair so the comb removes any that is loose but has stayed behind (and which could ultimately cause matting) and sometimes the comb will find twizzles that the brushes haven't. -
Which One Should I Use First? What Is The Differen
ellz replied to GOM's topic in Health / Nutrition / Grooming
Grooming "mantra" is brush, comb, brush, comb. Preferably the mildest brush you can get or at the very worst a good quality slicker brush...NOT on of those pet shop jobbies which are hard backed with treacherous metal spikes because they can be very painful to the dog if misused. If the dog is matted, a dematting rake is a useful tool...FOLLOWED by brush, comb, brush, comb. Do not make the mistake of wetting a matted dog, the mats will clump tighter and become even harder and more painful to remove. -
Many years ago...my first homebred boy dog from my first litter decided to lift his leg for the first time at about 8 months of age. I wish I could read his mind, he was absolutely disgusted with himself. He lifted the leg, peed all down the inside of the other back leg, put the lifted one back down and NEVER cocked his leg again! My Rottweiler is hilarious...he's only started lifting in the past couple of months and he can never decide which leg to lift so he stands there, does a jig, picks each back leg up and you can see it running through his mind "hmmm...which one?" before he lifts and squirts!
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Chicken necks Chicken wings Chicken Frames Brisket bones Lamp Necks Veal Ribs to name a few...
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Health: Is This What They Call "snow Nose"?
ellz replied to Merlin01's topic in Health / Nutrition / Grooming
I personally would not class this as snow nose. To me it simply looks like poor/incomplete pigmentation. ETA: If this person is a registered breeder then they are breaching the ANKC Code Of Ethics if they allow the puppy to leave home prior to 8 weeks. In some breeds at 5 weeks, the pigmentation could still be incomplete and it may fill in. Other breeds incomplete pigmentation is a fault at a young age. If you are really concerned about the pigmentation issue, I would be leaving the puppy with the breeder until it is at LEAST 8 weeks of age to see what develops in that time frame.