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Cooked meat is ok. Cooked bones are not. They get brittle and can splinter.

That was what I originally suggested. Different scenario entirely, but I know for my own part that if I have girls in season, the boys settle to sleep far better at night if they are crated nearby. They don't fuss and fidget anywhere near as much when they can see (and smell) them as they do if they are in a different area. That's when I have the midnight howls happening!! I do think that your presence could be unsettling him when he is in the crate Lokelani. He can sense and smell you and would probably settle down given enough time to do so. And he could also be reacting to your girls' discomfort as well. She may have been moving around which was upsetting him. And I really wouldn't crate an injured dog with an uninjured dog simply because of the risk of exascerbating the original injury. Animals in pain can react unpredictably and the last thing you want is a scuffle with two of them in the crate together.

I would still persevere with the crating. Perhaps he was still edgy because he knew that you were still there and was playing on you? They're not dumb. He probably knows that if he acts up enough, you'll let him out. He's really playing with you!! I personally feel that from what you've described a SAFE and SECURE crate is the best option. A crate inside is a far safer option anyway than leaving him outside where he could escape or injure himself by moving around too much. Provided your crate is in good repair and you make sure he has got comfortable bedding, shredded newspaper on top to absorb the slobber perhaps, then really there isn't that much harm that he could come to in it.

1) Largely the same as you've defined already. There is a difference in the playfulness between puppyness and an adult being cheeky. With my breed there also tends to be a change in coat texture and pattern. They definitely fill out more and become more adult to the eye. Their attention span seems to increase...only slightly in some dogs...but increases nonetheless. Crate and toilet training seems to finally fall into place. 2) American Cocker Spaniels 3) Varies greatly according to bloodlines and upbringing. Anywhere from around 15 months to 3 years. 4) Yank boys are normally pretty randy little buggers so sexual maturity doesn't really come into it. I've had boys that would have been "ready" for the job at 8 months of age when they're still sporting a puppy coat and puppyfat.

Well good for you (the rolling eyes are unneccessary btw). Unfortunately, the vast majority of puppy purchasers and dog owners don't BARF so I daresay many of them live with dogs which ARE on a diet that includes lactose of some kind at some stage. Anyway, whatever. You can argue all you like, I'm not rising to the bait (I have seen your particular style on the price difference thread). You do what you want to do, I'll do what has stood me and my dogs in good stead for the last 20 years. None of the people I've sold puppies to have complained so I think I may be doing something right. And I DO resent the implication that I am deliberately making my dogs sick!! Each to their own. As long as the dogs are healthy and happy, in my opinion there is no real right or wrong.

Hmmm...interesting. I would have thought that taking a couple of folded newspapers anywhere you go would have been more portable than lugging a bag of litter? Personally, I don't believe that any of the reasons you've stated for litter training make it any more necessary. I would rather put the time and energy into proper housetraining and then you have the puppy trained for life. If you litter train it, you are making a rod for yourself because when the dog is older you will STILL have a litter trained dog and not necessarily a housetrained dog. Even puppies which are crate trained, or are trained to a small puppysafe area in the home learn the whole thing quickly and can be very reliable even after a short period of time. Even at your mother's house, there is no reason why you couldn't be training your dog to do what most of us already do. Hang on until there is appropriate timing or supervision for an outside visit. Most of my dogs are also trained to go "potty" on the lead for the very same reason as you have used. When I would visit my parents' home, their pool was not fenced and I didn't feel comfortable allowing my dogs loose in their backyard. No, it's not convenient all the time, yes it is a nuisance when you are forced to go and stand with your dog in a cold or wet backyard when they need to "go" but it works.

And your Malamute can open a bag of kibble can it?

Hmmm...I'd better tell my dogs and puppies that they're meant to have the squits and be lactose intolerant then. I have given dogs and puppies diluted cows milk for the last 20 years and not had an issue with any of them and I know for a fact that every dog I have owned in my entire life has consumed milk at SOME stage in its life. I wouldn't say that MOST dogs are lactose intolerant. I daresay many aren't but if they aren't challenged with something you'll never know. I would also say it is fairly safe to assume that the problem with dogs getting the squits over ANYTHING is because it isn't a regular part of their diet and any changes or introductions should be made gradually. And I should also add that I was informed quite some time ago, that the problem with most "intolerances" in animals is that they weren't given the particular substance as a baby when their stomachs were learning to digest foods "other" than their mothers' milk. The weaning period is vital for many things related to diet and food absorption, as well as a crucial time in socialisation and learning. Edited to add: I am not for one minute saying that everybody should go out and START feeding their dogs and puppies cows milk. What I'm saying is that it is not the big scary no-no that everybody believes that it is. It is nowhere near on the league of feeding onion or chocolate for example. It is in the same camp of feeding eggs. For many many years egg white was on the scary food list, yet research and modern thinking has changed that. Every puppy that I have reared has had diluted cows milk when they were being weaned. In many ways...straight from the cow, from the milk bottle in the fridge, from a tin of Carnation milk or from a tin of Sunshine powdered milk. None that I can recall have had any issues with this (once they were accustomed to it of course) as a puppy OR an adult. My adult bitches also enjoy a nice drink of milk during a long whelping and that has dual effect.

Actually, not ALL dogs are lactose intolerant. It is my experience that those which are exposed to milk as puppies have absolutely no issues with milk as adults. It is generally those adults who have not been exposed to milk which have issues, the same applies for eggs. Raw meaty bones are fine. No cooked bones whatsoever - including the bone out of the Sunday Roast. Raw chicken is fine - bones and all. BUT, depending upon the size of the dog as to which portions should be given. Some smaller dogs would need necks and wings to be chopped further but most breeds of dogs can safely destroy an entire chicken frame. Chocolate contains theobromine which can be dangerous to dogs. There are all kinds of statistics and numbers around which say that X amount of chocolate is ok for X size of dog but unfortunately this isn't necessarily the case. And likewise, your dog may steal some chocolate this Christmas and be absolutely ok, but may steal some more (or be given some more) at Easter and die. Onions of any kind are out. Depends where you live about the pork. Australia has strict butchering laws so pork is ok here, but isn't in some countries where the conditions may not be as rigid. I don't know why you'd be feeding a dog bacon, but I'd go easy on it. It has a high fat content for a start which could cause the squits and can be quite salty, as well as being treated with chemicals to cure it. I also don't know why you shouldn't give liver to puppies. Aside from the fact that I live in Tasmania and we are not supposed to give offal to animals because of the risk of hydatids, I am not sure of any other reason. In fact, I know of entire litters of puppies whose lives have been saved by liver when they were fading puppies.

Solingen are excellent. My single-sided thinners are Solingen. I love my Doggystylz straights too, they have a nice feel to them. They look quite large, heavy and cumbersome but are balanced really well.

Have you considered perhaps changing his feeding routine to give him his main meal in the morning with just a biscuit or two or maybe a meaty bone at your dinnertime? This would mean that he has time to empty his main meal during the day and after just a light snack at night possibly wouldn't need to go out to empty in the middle of the night?

Satin balls ARE good. But they work out quite expensive and are an absolute SOD to make!!!

More fat all over! Reg gets really lean and ribby in winter and he hasn't got a tuck-up at the moment. Dolly is like a shiny black seal. Duncan wobbles when he gets blasted with the dryer!

Shekky it has worked wonders on Reg (within the space of a couple of weeks) and Dolly is as fat as mud at the moment as well. I've had to reduce the amount I give the Yanks too...Duncan looks like a tube on legs! I get mine from Animal Tuckerbox in Derwent Park. 22kg for $25.50. Not sure if they do smaller sizes or not. I'm PERFECTLY satisfied with it. Duncan doesn't "do" dry food as a rule but even HE eats the stuff!!

That is interesting, albeit a fraction alarmist. I have just now hung up from a rep at Laucke Mills who manufacture Great Barko here in Australia. He tells me that they are selling in excess of 12,000 bags per month right around Australia. I asked about the meat by-products. His response was that yes, they use them. Yes, they come from abbattoirs. BUT...there are three major abbattoirs in South Australia (where Laucke Mills are situated). One is for sheep, one is for cows and the other for pigs. The by-product is what is left after the animals are slaughtered ON SITE for HUMAN CONSUMPTION. They are not allowed to bring in dead animals Laucke to manufacture their foods. None of the abbattoirs have any involvement with euthanased animals of ANY species!! There are strict guidelines concerning meat handling and production and pet food preparation comes within those guidelines. I specifically questioned him about the possibility of liver fluke and other parasitic involvement and he said that if the dogs are getting it, the humans are as well. But that during the processing, the food is exposed to great heat so if there WAS something it would be killed by the heat and processing. And if it missed the first time around, after it is prepared the food goes through a pelleting machine which again heats it to around 90 - 95 degrees. Very enlightening conversation really.

You may like to look into Apple Cider Vinegar as well. Horse people are reporting good results in older and injured animals when ACV is added to their feeds.

Of course Barko contains animal by-products. But that doesn't mean that it is bad. Heck, WE eat animal by-products. I'd far rather look at the results (and the price) than worry too much about the label. One mans' meat is another mans' poison. My dogs love it. My dogs look good. I can afford to feed it. It is convenient to obtain. I'll stick with it for now. Good luck in your search for the "perfect" dog food and when you find it, I hope your dogs like it as much as you do!!

Rescue Remedy is a "herbal" relaxant/calmer/pick-me-up. Many uses for animal and human but can aid in separation anxiety. Be warned though, it is an alcohol base so isn't for everybody.

Great Barko Beef, lamb, chicken, pork, fish, cooked cereals, wheaten bran, canola, soy Lysine, methionite, antioxidant, bentonite Vit A, D3, E, K, B1, B2, B6, B12, niacin, pantothentate, folic acid, biotin Calcium, phosporus, sodium, chloride, cobalt, copper, iodine, iron, manganese, selenium, zinc Protein 20% Fat 10% Fibre 5% Customer information number 08 85628340 I have been feeding 2 American Cockers and 3 Staffordshire Bull Terriers on this food now for nearly 3 weeks. They are ALL doing exceptionally well, including the 9 year old Stafford who doesn't "DO" Tassie winters. Shiny coats, fat bellies (to the point of cutting back on rations) and no scratching or mucky eyes which is my usual indicator of a food not doing the trick.

I'll probably get flamed for saying this but is there any chance you can crate them side-by-side when you're not there to supervise? It may be the only way you can keep him from stressing so much whilst she is away from him. It's not an ideal solution but the last thing you need is him deciding to try and escape and running the risk of injuring himself even more.

Just as an alternative. Cheaper but definitely NOT nastier....why not look into Great Barko. Produced by the Laucke Mills in Australia. I have recently started some of my dogs on this and it is really very good. $25.50 for 22kg. Lasts ages as you don't have to feed much, especially if the dry food is not the major component of your feeds. Doesn't look the most appetizing product on earth but even my two fussies will eat it. Stools are smaller, harder and easier to pick up. And even the skinny minny has put on weight in the space of a couple of weeks.

I love my Coat King. I use a 26 on the American Cockers, adult and puppy. Doesn't suit ALL coat textures, but even on the less successful ones it still rips out the dead undercoat on the saddles like there is no tomorrow!! I have SOOO many huge ugly callouses on my thumbs and forefingers from handstripping and the Coat King is an absolute godsend!!!!

Taking a young puppy for extended walks on a lead is akin to making a human toddler jog around the block. Self-exercise is safest and more fun for any baby. 10 or 15 minutes on a lead per day just in the front or backyard for lead training is sufficient. Any more than this can cause early wear and tear on major joints.

Sounds like inverted canines to me by your description. I'm sorry but it is a jaw problem. The bottom jaw isn't wide enough (and in some cases long enough) for the canine teeth to sit in the right position. It is hereditary, it can be aggravated by retained baby teeth and the bad news is that there probably isn't much that can be done, short of removing the canines from the bottom jaw. Check with a canine dentist but be aware that Inverted canines are quite a big problem in Staffordshire Bull Terriers.

Sounds like converged canines to me (as per my previous post). Common problem in Staffords and I hate to say it but it rarely corrects itself. It isn't so much a "tooth" problem as a jaw problem (botton jaw is wrong size and shape) and is hereditary.