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Horse meat is very lean. It is still widely used for racing greyhounds as well as in pet food. Hence the term "dogging" a horse.

doG yes! Ring the owner first and foremost to advise what has happened. Take the dog to the vet, either their own or the owners' if they prefer. And then either take some lessons in dog handling or give up grooming until they are a lot more experienced if the dog DOES have behavioural issues in a grooming environment.

It was a recurrent thing. He never completely recovered from it although it didn't really affect him much other than the fact that he had lumpy ears whenever he was clipped. We just kept treating it with Ilium cream prescribed by the vet and it didn't really do much in the long run.

Two things spring to mind for me. Sebaceous cyst or staph infection. Many moons ago I had an American Cocker who would get pimple-like lumps on his ears after he was clipped. Turned out it was a staph infection in the hair roots.

If you feed kangaroo on a regular basis, don't forget to add extra calcium.

Like junk food for kids. OK as a treat, or if you are travelling or run out of time to defrost "real" food or whatever but I certainly wouldn't feed them on an every-day basis.

I wouldn't say they are harder to rear, it's just that the human part of the equation has to put more of themselves (and their time) into it to ensure that the puppy gets proper socialisation and not all humans are up to the task.

Oh and MooBoo, with regards to my last comment. Probably a good time to remind you not to let your boy lick your face any time soon!

I feel slightly ill Would it make you feel better if I mentioned that generally it's the dog licking itself that makes the problem flare up?

Sounds like balanitis to me too. I'd flush with warm saline.

I don't deliberately feed coconut oil, however I do feed my horses Copra and the dogs fall over each other to try to steal it from the buckets. It brings the horses up beautifully. Great shine to their coats and good for fattening them up too. I'd imagine it would do the same for dogs and so would the oil.

Google "winter nose". Very common for noses to fade at this time of the year. Vitamin D and exposure to sunlight will help as well as kelp and if you can get it, some Ironcyclen.

Basically yes. They do heat up slightly with use, but that is just from the air temperature around them. Many of the forced air dryers are used by horse and cattle people. I use a forced air dryer on the Yank feet and to blow the water (with the direction of growth) out of the saddle and neck areas and finish the rest with the heated dryer. Also use the forced air dryer on the Staffords and the Greyhound to blast the water out and loosen any dead hair. Also very good for directing between toes to completely dry if you have a dog that is prone to toe crud.

Hang about...you're the one who started to get nasty with the little crack about worry pills. But whatever.....you obviously know what you're doing which is why you are asking so many questions. This is a public forum so those of us who read it are as entitled to post as you are. If you don't like the replies, then don't read them, put us on ignore, or just don't respond. It's your choice to accept what you are offered or not. But just as you are not willing to accept the responses, there are people out there who are. Good luck. Hope all goes well with your puppy.

Surely you Jest If we did that, then there would be no need for worry pills I know, I know. We're just meant to carry on oblivious and then moan when something goes wrong because nobody warned us that it could happen! *sigh* Dare I warn them about the dangers of bloat with a large breed of dog or am I worrying unneccessarily about that too?

Listen sweetie, I've been around dogs all my life and have been breeding and exhibiting dogs for 22 years. I SAW the aftermath of a major accident involving dogs about 5 years ago and I changed all of my transport practices then. Until then, I was oblivious to the possibilities. Haven't you ever heard the saying "better to be safe than sorry"?

That's not the point. Not every other driver on the road is a smooth driver like you. What would happen if you were in an accident and the side of the car where your dog was sitting in a harness was the site of impact? Or your dog escaped but you were in an ambulance on your way to hospital and had no way of catching it? Or if you were trapped or unconscious and your dog escaped and ran into the path of other traffic? Or if you were trapped inside your car and your dog wouldn't allow emergency services to attend to you? A crate is a far safer method of transport which affords safety during travel as well as during any unplanned (or planned) stops. If your dog is crated in the car and your car breaks down, you can get the crate out of the car to cool it down (or warm it up if need be) safely or if necessary can leave your dog in an otherwise "no dogs" zone as it is contained and not a nuisance. There are many reasons why a crate is the best option.

Personally I only believe in crating in a car and recommend it highly to all of my puppy people. I've known of people who have been involved in accidents and their dog/s have either been badly injured, or have escaped and ultimately been run over or disappeared, or which have made attempts to help the people in the car very difficult due to guarding and/or confusion. A good crate is by far IMO the safest method of travel.

In my experience, some Staffords just seem to have "death breath". For no apparent reason. My old girl is always one of those who just seems to have yuckier breath than everybody else. Clean bill of health. Had tonsils removed "just in case", is on a good diet, gets plenty of bones, clean teeth. Just smellier than the others who are on the same food etc. She's also the best snorer, burper and farter in the house so my opinion is that it is just stinky air that is coming from all orifices.

Considering $850 is around the going price for a companion puppy, I can't see a problem.

IMO there are three major considerations for any food. 1) Your dog/s eat it. 2) They do well on it. 3) It suits your wallet.

Have no idea why the Periactin works, but it does. Is highly recommended by many "old-time" breeders.

Periactin from the chemist.

Raw chicken bones will bind up even further.