ellz

Especially considering the Stafford was originally bred to live indoors and was considered more a part of the family (as a major breadwinner) than the kids were!

I would imagine that in most states, the clubs aren't required to hold as many non-championship shows to qualify for affiliation. Part of that was due to declining entry numbers. And it costs almost as much to run an Open Show as it does to run a Championship Show. And I guess with the way that Judges' Training is structured now, they aren't as necessary as they were previously.

I WAS a diehard Supercoat person. I fed it to my dogs and recommended it to my puppy people. Then a few years ago, something in it changed and it was no longer the product that it had been. I found that the volume and consistency of the "output" was completely unacceptable and it took more to keep weight on. Plus coats became dull and listless and there was evidence of more flaking skin. Overall, the entire condition of the dogs was just not as good as previously. I no longer recommend it and have removed it from my puppy information guide as well. There are far better products out there for comparable (or cheaper) prices if you don't wish to go the route of a Super Premium food.

Good quality very fine grade mince initially (getting coarser as they start getting teeth and enthusiasm), straight off my fingers. To drink they have fresh water available 24/7 but I also give 50/50 cows milk with warm water for breakfast and supper. Depending upon the litter (some "get" weaning more quickly than others) I may soak puppy dry food in the milk/water mix to encourage them to eat dry and to drink from a bowl at the same time, but most litters just get the hang of chewing (and laying in the bowls) quite quickly so have dry food on the side of their mince. As they get older, I start adding veges to the mince and when they are on separate bowls for feeding, I'll add their dry food and mix it in so that they have to chew it or they get lazy and leave the crunchy stuff because the other stuff is yummier and quicker to eat.

I feel for you. I made this decision myself only recently. In my case, my girl wasn't as old as your oldie (she was only 10). But she had deteriorated mentally quite rapidly and although she was quite fit physically, she just wasn't "herself" and I didn't want her to get to the point where she was injured by the danger caused by her wandering, or where I was angry with her all the time because of her declining physical habits which were really becoming intolerable and most definitely beyond her control. And she HATED to be dirty....she knew and it broke her heart every time she had an accident but she couldn't do anything about it, and neither could I. I remember her as she was, and although I do still wonder if I acted prematurely, I know that she was happy when she crossed the bridge and that's what matters most to me. Good luck with your decision. It is the one that every pet owner hates. Hugs.

I personally wouldn't use either, however if they were all that were available, I would lean towards the Bonnie every time.

This is totally wrong and not necessarily recommended but it worked for me. I was having MAJOR issues with Rimes on the table so one frustrating day, I trimmed him whilst he was standing on the show stackers. Not only did I manage to get his feet done properly, but he now stands nicely when I'm doing it without the stackers. Needs must!

OP said neighbour was an ex-breeder which is why I suggested they ask them. If they are unable to help, then they may be able to suggest somebody locally.

It really isn't that difficult. Perhaps your neighbour could show you what to do....or alternatively, do it for you?

Bumping for all interested crafty people!

Yes, anybody can enter the relevant classes at the Melbourne Royal. Sydney Royal is the one that had qualifying wins.

If they are continually refusing one meal in particular, no matter what you are offering them, then it could be the puppy telling you that they no longer require as many meals as you are dishing up, so if you are feeding four regular meals, perhaps cut it down to a similar amount spread over three meals.

Definitely in the main part of the house where they can experience all of the sights and sounds of a regular family life. My puppies are all whelped and reared within sight and sound of EVERYTHING that occurs in the family. They are part of the action from birth. I find this makes them more readily accepting of everything that goes on for the rest of their lives. It is also easier to toilet train a puppy that has a pen in the main part of the house. You are better able to watch body language and take them outside to their toilet spot when they are showing the usual "signs" of wanting to go, which also reinforces the toilet training issues that rely so much upon timing.

I owned a dog (prior to DNA testing) who was obviously a carrier as he had sired affected offspring. He had also sired clear offspring and those are in other clear breeding programs. The beauty of DNA is that you are able to make EDUCATED decisions based upon fact, not "guesstimations" based upon the law of probability. Many dogs which are producing beautiful type and temperaments are able to be retained in a breeding program, where previously, they would have been eliminated on "what-ifs". That is the beauty of DNA. The ONLY dog that I would eliminate from a breeding program now, based upon DNA testing is a dog which is affected. By all Mendalian principles a dog which is affected can only EVER produce affected stock, whilst a carrier can still produce clear stock.

No, most kennel clubs welcome members from anywhere. Numbers are numbers. Most controlling bodies require a minimum number of members for affiliation so every "bum on a seat" helps! Some clubs may hold Members Competitions etc, and I cannot answer specifically about other places but I would think that entry would be open to all with probably some form of benefit for actual financial members such as entry price cuts or special classes and competitions etc. Not always. Some do (the wealthier clubs and those shows which are organised by the controlling bodies themselves such as Royal Shows etc), but many/most would use available facilities such as showgrounds, football grounds etc. This would vary very much from club to club. As with the answer above relating to members' shows etc. There are more likely to be things like entry price reductions, special classes, pointscores and of course social events organised within the clubs for fund raising etc. What are the general benefits to joining more broad kennel clubs like Ladies Kennel Association of QLD, and kennel Association of QLD? Exactly

The division in the schedule is really just information for you. When you send off the entry, the show secretary will automatically put the breed into the correct area for the show. You are correct that if the breed isn't specifically mentioned then it goes in the "balance" of the group. Whether you enter Minor or Puppy is up to you. Personally, I'd probably stick with Minor only. As has been discussed in this thread already, it isn't necessarily possible to enter in more than one class. You'd need to check the rules and regulations with your state controlling body as to multiple class entry. Here in Tasmania, it is not permitted. When you fill in the entry form, you simply need to put in the class number that you are entering, although some people do put the name of the class as well, ie 2 - Minor Puppy Dog. Leave Special Classes blank.

Definitely try before you buy! My favourite set of thinners are an antique set of single-sided Solingen which were given to me by the breeder of my first American Cocker champion 22 years ago. She had had them for a number of years herself. They've always been treated with care, sharpened by qualified people and still hold an edge better than most other sets of scissors I've ever owned. My other set of thinners are a skiptooth pair made in the USA by Talyn. Fabulous things they are. Take some getting used to but leave a lovely natural line. Straight shears are Doggystylz and curved are Jaguar. I don't have any particular recommendations for length, a lot depends upon how you use the scissors and what your scissoring technique is as to what length shear will do the right job for you. Too long or short and the balance is altered so the effect is different. Keep an eye on the weight too. Some scissors can be very helpful and this can cause groomer fatigue.

*whisper* One of my horses is rather partial to it too. Mind you, he is the one which I've always thought was a dog in a horse suit so I shouldn't be surprised. Seriously though, if he happens to be in the yard when I'm feeding, he'll do anything to get his nose in the dog bowls to steal the GB or UA!! I usually have to slap him on the end of the schnozz to get him to keep it out of my way!

Farting, burping and snoring! I have said frequently here (and other places) that Staffords fart SOOOOO well it should actually be included in the breed standard as a breed requirement. If a Stafford doesn't do it, they're broken and should be returned immediately to place of purchase for a refund!

Tisn't a stoopid question at all. It's a very relevant one!

Because the initial crosses that created them were a "bull and terrier", ie a bull breed such as a mastiff and a terrier of some description to refine the bull breed down somewhat and make it more athletic and agile.

The other thing about the old "lock jaw" story is that the breed have very powerful massiters (ie jaw muscles), which also gives them their characteristic "smile". The powerful jaw muscles combined with the one-track mind can mean that you have a dog that is hellbent on not letting go. The rat pits were also used for sport after dog fighting and bull and bear baiting became illegal. Whilst it was felt cruel to pit dogs against each other and dogs against bulls and bears (and badgers), nobody spared a thought for the rat which was of course in plentitude in those days.

I'd go with the Uncle Albers. Very satisfied customer here. Have tried many other varieties of food, including some so-called "super premium" foods but always come back to Uncle Albers or Great Barko (both made by the same company - Laucke Mills in South Australia).

Not necessarily so, mine hate nailclippers but don't mind the nail grinder at all.