ellz

I personally wouldn't use either, however if they were all that were available, I would lean towards the Bonnie every time.

This is totally wrong and not necessarily recommended but it worked for me. I was having MAJOR issues with Rimes on the table so one frustrating day, I trimmed him whilst he was standing on the show stackers. Not only did I manage to get his feet done properly, but he now stands nicely when I'm doing it without the stackers. Needs must!

OP said neighbour was an ex-breeder which is why I suggested they ask them. If they are unable to help, then they may be able to suggest somebody locally.

It really isn't that difficult. Perhaps your neighbour could show you what to do....or alternatively, do it for you?

Bumping for all interested crafty people!

Yes, anybody can enter the relevant classes at the Melbourne Royal. Sydney Royal is the one that had qualifying wins.

If they are continually refusing one meal in particular, no matter what you are offering them, then it could be the puppy telling you that they no longer require as many meals as you are dishing up, so if you are feeding four regular meals, perhaps cut it down to a similar amount spread over three meals.

Definitely in the main part of the house where they can experience all of the sights and sounds of a regular family life. My puppies are all whelped and reared within sight and sound of EVERYTHING that occurs in the family. They are part of the action from birth. I find this makes them more readily accepting of everything that goes on for the rest of their lives. It is also easier to toilet train a puppy that has a pen in the main part of the house. You are better able to watch body language and take them outside to their toilet spot when they are showing the usual "signs" of wanting to go, which also reinforces the toilet training issues that rely so much upon timing.

I owned a dog (prior to DNA testing) who was obviously a carrier as he had sired affected offspring. He had also sired clear offspring and those are in other clear breeding programs. The beauty of DNA is that you are able to make EDUCATED decisions based upon fact, not "guesstimations" based upon the law of probability. Many dogs which are producing beautiful type and temperaments are able to be retained in a breeding program, where previously, they would have been eliminated on "what-ifs". That is the beauty of DNA. The ONLY dog that I would eliminate from a breeding program now, based upon DNA testing is a dog which is affected. By all Mendalian principles a dog which is affected can only EVER produce affected stock, whilst a carrier can still produce clear stock.

No, most kennel clubs welcome members from anywhere. Numbers are numbers. Most controlling bodies require a minimum number of members for affiliation so every "bum on a seat" helps! Some clubs may hold Members Competitions etc, and I cannot answer specifically about other places but I would think that entry would be open to all with probably some form of benefit for actual financial members such as entry price cuts or special classes and competitions etc. Not always. Some do (the wealthier clubs and those shows which are organised by the controlling bodies themselves such as Royal Shows etc), but many/most would use available facilities such as showgrounds, football grounds etc. This would vary very much from club to club. As with the answer above relating to members' shows etc. There are more likely to be things like entry price reductions, special classes, pointscores and of course social events organised within the clubs for fund raising etc. What are the general benefits to joining more broad kennel clubs like Ladies Kennel Association of QLD, and kennel Association of QLD? Exactly

The division in the schedule is really just information for you. When you send off the entry, the show secretary will automatically put the breed into the correct area for the show. You are correct that if the breed isn't specifically mentioned then it goes in the "balance" of the group. Whether you enter Minor or Puppy is up to you. Personally, I'd probably stick with Minor only. As has been discussed in this thread already, it isn't necessarily possible to enter in more than one class. You'd need to check the rules and regulations with your state controlling body as to multiple class entry. Here in Tasmania, it is not permitted. When you fill in the entry form, you simply need to put in the class number that you are entering, although some people do put the name of the class as well, ie 2 - Minor Puppy Dog. Leave Special Classes blank.

Definitely try before you buy! My favourite set of thinners are an antique set of single-sided Solingen which were given to me by the breeder of my first American Cocker champion 22 years ago. She had had them for a number of years herself. They've always been treated with care, sharpened by qualified people and still hold an edge better than most other sets of scissors I've ever owned. My other set of thinners are a skiptooth pair made in the USA by Talyn. Fabulous things they are. Take some getting used to but leave a lovely natural line. Straight shears are Doggystylz and curved are Jaguar. I don't have any particular recommendations for length, a lot depends upon how you use the scissors and what your scissoring technique is as to what length shear will do the right job for you. Too long or short and the balance is altered so the effect is different. Keep an eye on the weight too. Some scissors can be very helpful and this can cause groomer fatigue.

*whisper* One of my horses is rather partial to it too. Mind you, he is the one which I've always thought was a dog in a horse suit so I shouldn't be surprised. Seriously though, if he happens to be in the yard when I'm feeding, he'll do anything to get his nose in the dog bowls to steal the GB or UA!! I usually have to slap him on the end of the schnozz to get him to keep it out of my way!

Farting, burping and snoring! I have said frequently here (and other places) that Staffords fart SOOOOO well it should actually be included in the breed standard as a breed requirement. If a Stafford doesn't do it, they're broken and should be returned immediately to place of purchase for a refund!

Tisn't a stoopid question at all. It's a very relevant one!

Because the initial crosses that created them were a "bull and terrier", ie a bull breed such as a mastiff and a terrier of some description to refine the bull breed down somewhat and make it more athletic and agile.

The other thing about the old "lock jaw" story is that the breed have very powerful massiters (ie jaw muscles), which also gives them their characteristic "smile". The powerful jaw muscles combined with the one-track mind can mean that you have a dog that is hellbent on not letting go. The rat pits were also used for sport after dog fighting and bull and bear baiting became illegal. Whilst it was felt cruel to pit dogs against each other and dogs against bulls and bears (and badgers), nobody spared a thought for the rat which was of course in plentitude in those days.

I'd go with the Uncle Albers. Very satisfied customer here. Have tried many other varieties of food, including some so-called "super premium" foods but always come back to Uncle Albers or Great Barko (both made by the same company - Laucke Mills in South Australia).

Not necessarily so, mine hate nailclippers but don't mind the nail grinder at all.

I would assume same here in VIC give the fact that I have NEVER seen one entered in more than one. I just did a very brief skim of the VCA site but could not fine the rule, but I did not look very hard. hi BBJ .. this is allowable in Vic - I have seen it quite a few times over the years. Usually new exhibitors who don't realise what they're doing. Or people who have nothing better to do with their money but spend it on entries It's ok up here because our entry fees are scaled, usually it's $15 1st entry, $12 2nd, $10 3rd and $5 there after, when you are entering 10-12 dogs it's down to $5 by the time we decide to enter the second class for our bitch. (Some clubs have decided to add to their schedules second class for the same dog is a higher fee but only 1 thus far) Was more making the point that the individual should check with the controlling body in their state because multiple class entries may not be allowed. I think you'll find it's not a state control thing (in most states) it is something added to the Schedule, but it always pays to check. It is clearly stated in the Tasmanian Canine Association Inc., show rules and regulations so other states may be the same. Definitely check before you double enter or you may find one entry pulled and your dog put into the Open Class no matter how old it is (as per the regulations of most states).

Was more making the point that the individual should check with the controlling body in their state because multiple class entries may not be allowed.

You can actually enter multiple of classes, but if you are awarded 2nd in one, you are automatically disqualified from the others as you are a second place getter. I know one person who once entered her dog in state and open, there were 3 dogs in state and she was the only one in open, because she entered both, she had to participate in both, she got awarded 2nd in state, which meant she was already a beaten dog, and couldnt go in both. IMO - Its a waste of money. When it comes down to choosing if you want to enter your dog in Minor or Puppy, i go on maturity. If I have a very mature 8 month old, I may put it up to Puppy. But you must remember some dogs in puppy are almost 12 months. CruiseNRoxy this is infact incorrect. I have a Whippet bitch I exhibit that we frequently exhibit in Intermediate (her age class) and NT (State) Bred (means more to her owner/breeder). We have had this come up in the past and according to the rules a dog must be judged in ALL classes it is entered in. So for example, we had Nicky in Intermediate and she was exhibited against one other and was beaten. She is a beaten dog in the Intermediate class but has not had her shot in the State Bred class, and therefore is not a beaten dog in that class. She would then go against another bitch for State Bred and usually get first, because of the second place in another class she is not eligible for Challenge, however if the Intermediate bitch gets challenge she is eligible to contend for Res CC. If she gets first in both of her classes and then goes onto win Challenge, both of the second place dogs return for Challenge. For us it is worth it because we exhibit a few Whippet bitches but there is only 2 of us to handle, by doing this we knock ourselves out (unavoidable anyway) and usually have 2 left which works well for us. If I need to clarify let me know. Actually, the rules state that a beaten dog may not compete for the challenge so even if your bitch may win one class, if she is beaten in another she should not compete for the CC. And with regards to entering in multiple classes anyway, check with your individual state controlling body on this rule. Here in Tasmania, we are allowed to enter ONE class only per dog per show (with the exception of sweepstakes, progeny, property classes etc if offered).

Have heard the Double K are good, but my next stand dryer will be an Oldfield.

They're all pretty much the same size. I'm VERY pleased with my Roks!! Mind you, none of my dogs are that impressed....they've all been "ground" now. The absolute BEST behaved of them was the Pug baby. She was too busy kissing me to worry about what was happening to her tootsies!

Another tip. When you put your blades away, wrap them in a piece of kitchen paper and put a piece of chalk into the box where you keep them. The chalk will help to absorb any moisture that is in or around the clippers and prevent them from rusting and blunting.