piper

Not sure how south you are when you say Fleurieu but if Aldings is in the region you were thinking of then I would say check out School For Dogs. http://www.schoolfordogs.com.au/

How does that mean they just want to sell products? I know of obedience clubs and pet dog training places that are NOT at vets and do not sell produc that do first week without pups. In my last 12 months of taking classes I changed to doing them this way too. The reason - it is really hard for the owners to concentrate on information while also trying to deal with a bouncy puppy or fearful puppy. By having first week without pups the information of what to do when you arrive to help settle your puppy (eg not letting it rush up to other pups who may be nervous etc), what to do if puppy is barking/crying carrying on. I set aside a large time to discuss any issues that had cropped up and go over house training basics. Over the 4 weeks I still covered the same content but got out a lot of theory things while people were not trying to manage fido. This meant classes were much smoother, quieter, calmer. Nervous dogs had not been terrified bfore class started as people were aware of what to do/not to do when they arrived. We also were able to keep things moving at a better pace as many things had already been discussed.

Good explanation Janba. Given what you say Jules, that Poppy is a control freak - she likes to hold them on fences and in obstacles as she knows she can control them and hold them there, she needs to learn that she can also do this elsewhere and develop confidence in her own ability to keep them under control in open spaces. At least that is my interpretation of what Janba was explaining

I walked 3 BCs like that without any hassles agility dogs. I actually found it less hassle to have them all in front but the rule was no pulling and people would be amazed that I could literally have all 3 leads on 1 finger. I found they had their preferred positioning as to who was next to who and rarely deviated from it. The "rule" I had and rarely used (didn't need it) was if you try and pull you can come back and walk at heel for bit. If we had other people approaching we just moved off to the side, I never found an easier way to manage than that as even if they were all by my side we took up too much space on the footpath for another person and dog to pass. And this way they all had more freedom to move and sniff and enjoy their walks. At 1 time a firend went OS for a few months. Her partner walked her 2 BCs a little but not a lot so I took them with with my guys a few times and ended up ith 5 BCs all calmly walking in front of me (hers were used to being out in front as well). I will say that all 5 dogs were obedience trained and able to heel if needed.

I'm another who is shocked and doesn't know what to say. I have been checking this thread each time I log on today for any more news. As a future breeder I have often read Jed's very sensible comments and advice and stored them away for future use or spent time considering them as they have given a different perspective I had not considered. Get well Jed, your surviving animals need you.

Well we must have been lucky with the person I picked up the other week - no hassle what so ever booking her dog onto flights in and out of Hobart at the times of day needed. I actually expected more issues with it than we had.

Anything in particular you did to get him deep at the top as well Janba? I suspect Jazz will have a similar issue - she starts nice and wide but from the limited informal casting we have done she cuts in closer as she gets to the top.

I understand the ferry cost making things more difficult and essentially removing driving as an option for some people. But I am still struggling to understand comments like the 1 above in regards to flying - the airline restrictions on things like size, type of crate, breed of dog, number of dogs per flight etc are the same nationwide. So people who are considering flying from any state have the same concerns and issues. An earlier comment regarding Jetstar not taking dogs is no different to anywhere else either. As far as I am aware we are all restricted to QANTAS or Virgin if we want to fly with our dogs. Someone said that there were only 2 flights out - 1 in the morning and 1 in the evening. Well 2 weeks ago I picked up a Tasmanian from the airport who had flown out, with her dog from Hobart at 1 or 2pm and was flying back into Hobart at a similar time. Here in SA we only have 1 airoprt with interstate flights so driving a coupe of hours to get to the airport is also an issue. As I said though I will agree that it is easier/cheaper for us to drive to Melbourne than people from Tasmania, but in regards to Nationals I also feel that there should be no challenge certificates available anywhere in the country whilst a national is on.

I use a $4 cheapie from K-Mart. It is called a puppy lead and is nice and soft, not too thin. It is not overly strong (well I don't think it would be - not sure, mine don't pull to test this theory!) but is a nice length and weight for trialling.

I was going to be another drop out, because of the cost of traveling for lessons not lack of enthusiam, but the dogs are enjoying it so much & I just can't seem to quit, so I'll just have to chuck in something else & Victoria here we come . I used to drive 2 hours each way for a 1 hour lesson every Saturday. I did that for the better part of 2 years with Piper. Now the guy I was going to isn't doing lessons any more and I have a thing called a mortgage impacting on it - the fuel cost is a killer more so than the lesson cost. I do intend on trying to get out to Cass's1 this year though, just not sure when I am going to be able to manage it. Sometimes I think it was better being single and free from financial commitments I can sort of access stock locally but not on a regular basis and none of it dog broke so for training new skills like driving I don't want sheep that will run a million miles as soon as they spot a dog.

I use the Lawrence Soft Touch slicker on my BCs - I used to have the normal 1 but it was too harsh so I bought the soft 1 instead. As well as that I have a Plush Puppy Metro Static brush and a collie comb - no idea the brand on that 1, had it for yonks. ETA: Have an assortment of other stuff as well but they are the basic essentials that I use

I would love to see a Rotti, Belgian or Corgi work Don't think we have ever had any of those breeds come and try over here. We did have a samoyed get PT (might have been 2 - I know 1 definitely got it) Oh and I just remembered we had a Giant Schnauzer in PT last trial as well.

We have similar issue with regards to people doing tests and not continuing on. At the moment we seem to have a keen group going through started and I hope they will continue on (says me who is currently stuck due to lack of training to move into intermediate!). We don't have the training options available to use that you guys in NSW do though. Even with the hassles you have with getting/keeping stock for Erskine Park it is still a preferable situation to be in.

At our herding weekend just gone we had (off the top of my head...) BCs, Aussies, Kelpies, a surprising number of GSDs, a coolie, an ACDx and a sheltie. I think that was about it. None of the Belgian Shepherd people over here have come out and given it a go. We have had a couple of Beardies and Briards come and try in the past. And 1 of the first dogs in the state competing was an OES. At the moment we would predominantly be Aussies and GSDS - I think they out number the BCs and kelpies at some herding days.

ideally I prefer to train on stock rather than dry but we can go upto 4 months without access to stock so I like to make the most of the rare opportunities when we get them. Giving the dog an understanding of the concept and command means we can maximise our training on stock when we get it. Jazz is a lovely natural worker, in fact at the clinic we discussed a few things she needs work on that had been over looked as she gets the job done so nicely herself. She runs wide and is not grippy. I have never worked on getting her to find stock that she can not see yet the other weekend put her into a paddock and gave her a flank command then asked her to go on, I saw her body language change as she got sight f the stock and then disappeared put of view and calmly returned with her sheep not long after. It was such a buzz dry training helped here as she understood the commands I used to send her out.

Yes I taught them around obstacles as well but once they transfered the cue to stock then that was it with both of them - that is what they look for, lol. Mind you if I persisted I am sure I could get past that but I am not really worried about it, I only used items at home to develop the concept due to lack of stock. And typing this has given me a light bulb moment - I could kick start inside flanks the same way....

If I give a directional cue when there are no stock present mine take 2 or 3 steps and turn back to stare at me like I am clearly crazy. With a bit of effort and actually taking them around what I want them to go around they will then do it - Piper feels the need to bark her head off off let out a high pitch whine while doing it. I need to start Jazz on inside flanks for driving. We had a clinic with Tull from Tasmania and she showed us how to get going the trouble is we lack access to stock to be able to practice. Jazz had not been on stock since August so her first few minutes were a little wild and someone commented to me that they had never seen her look out of control on stock as she is always so quiet so it took them by surprise. When I worked out how long it had been since she was on sheep I was more surprised that she actually settled and listened!

Palmolive dish washing detergent or a hand cleaner for mechanics, only on the spots and rinse well. Dawn dishwashing detergent is another option - when a friends BC did this she was told this by someone who had helped with rescuing birds from oil slicks and dawn breaks down the oil but is gentle enough for the feathers. If I recall she was also told to then wash with normal dog shampoo and condition.

Well done xena98!! Good luck to you and all the SA contingent in the finals today. Seems we have a few dogs running.

Contact the working sheepdog assoc in Victoria, I am sure they could put you in touch with someone.

Thanks Jules. Sounds fantastic, if only the budget would allow for it, by the time I take time off work to travel and pay fuel etc as well I probably can't manage it. Will have a look at the finances though as it sounds like a great opportunity.

What clinic is that? Details please

I agree. I learnt at a seminar with an assistance dog trainer how to teach a dog to take a tablet, no fuss. People with assistance dogs may have disabilties that makes forcing a table down the dogs throat difficult and the dogs may at some point in their woring career need regular medication so they taught the dogs to take it on cue, I ended up introducing it to my puppy classes and the vet and bet nurses thought it was awesome and also taught clients. All she did was take a heap of yummy soft treats and give them to the dog as you would give a tablet - put them in and hold muzzle while saying "tablet" - dog initially is reluctant but soon realises there is a yummy treat each time. Do this with half a dozen treats rapid fire for a few days and they will open their mouth to "tablet". Then the first time you need to give a tablet give your tablet cue and give a treat 2 or 4 times then a tablet then back to treats. Dog swallows tablet without knowing and without needing to be held or forced. Over time you can reduce the number of rapid fire treats given. With my guys if they are on antibitoics I go back to using half a dozen or so small trwats and varying where they get the tablet so they don't wise up to it. A previous dog that was on daily heartworm got given it before dinner and it was part of her routine the same as a wait is part of the routine for the current dogs. She was never an issue to tablet either.

Any results/brags from today?