kelpiechick

I make my own 'tugging pouches' designed to get dogs to interact with toys and sell them at the club where I instruct - but I did buy one of the 'advanced' tugs for one of my kelpies - not because there's any difficulty getting him tug but just because I thought he'd like it - which he does. He has had 2 or 3 pretty full on sessions with it so far and no damage as yet so four paws up for the fabric. There are some things about the design I don't like though - firstly the mesh is strong but not really all that soft (don't know about the beginning one) so I'm not sure it would appeal to all dogs - guess the lure of the food might overcome that? I have found that some dogs will only entertain the idea of tugging with very soft fabric and this is not. Secondly, I don't like the narrow opening at the top where the food goes in. Not all that much comes out from the holes in the advanced one and I prefer using something that I can also target the dog to and the dog will get an instant reward , rather than picking this up and getting a lick. Although for an already tugging dog, it's fine. I prefer something with a wider opening at the top and reinforced so that it actually sits open on the ground and the dog can get food out itself. I don't think it's fair to take a food crazy dog that is not yet into tugging and then the only food reward that the dog gets for interacting with the toy is a tiny bit of food that squeezes out the holes. And the opening is so small that if you do take out some food for the dog you have to feed it yourself rather than letting the dog get it out. And it's a bugar to get the left over food out at the end and clean. The one thing that I do like about the design though is that if you put heavy enough food inside (chicken necks, etc) it's easy to accurately throw to reward.

I never come into this thread, but something just drew me here today. What an absolutely stunning looking dog Jae was - RIP Jae. And what a hard decision it must have been to make - but the right one and hugs to you for having the courage to do what I believe dogs would have no problem doing if it was up to them. And yes, they are with us for such a short but wonderful time.

Dammit - just did my subscription renewal ! Plus a few more things that put it over the $100, doubledammit !

The resource is written as a companion to the 2X2 method - but there are lots of great things in there to use with dogs trained in any method really - for example, ideas on record keeping and weave drills to set up for proofing.

At only 9 weeks, be patient. One of my kelpies wasn't all that keen on food at 9 weeks either, so we used short play sessions with a toy initially as reward. Now at 2 years old he is an absolute 'chow hound' - probably 50-50 with the toy now. It can take time for their food preferences to develop. I don't buy commercial treats, although they love 4 legs and are allowed to have it as treats sometimes like 'junk food' I guess - hideous! I like softer treats that can be eaten quickly, so no schmakos or dried liver treats. I make my own liver training treats, but don't cook them as long as I would to dry them out so they stay fairly moist. I mix this with hot dogs, kangaroo sausage (very low in fat), little bit of cheese and chicken breast or roast lamb - when I have some left over from cooking for us. I also make my own dog biscuits and will sometimes cut the dough up into very tiny training treat sizes to use as well - but I only use these if I intend to allow them enough time to chew - not for 'machine gunning' when clicker training. If I want to reward away from me and need something big enough to toss, I cook up pasta - not very often but it's a good occasional one. There was an email doing the rounds about treats from China (didn't realise the thread was on here) and one of the brands they mentioned was Kra-Mar I think, so worthwhile checking the labels if you buy commercial treats. The things we do for our dogs !

Why months? My kelpie started at 13 months with a 6 inch channel and in 3 weeks was weaving 12 poles in a straight line with speed. We worked at it twice a day, morning and night for about 3 minutes at a time with lots of rewards. Jules, I would think 13 months is fine for a BC, if you are at all concerned why not ask someone at your club (I think you are at Croydon) who has experience with BC's in agility - Geraldine would be one person who springs to mind.

And I'm sure a lot of people love Silvia Trkman and fair enough with the results she gets - but to me the European handling style that a lot of people like is nothing but yelling, cheerleading, arm flapping and lots of bending over. And don't we all need to work on our handling - just because I wish to emulate SG unfortunately doesn't mean I look like her

At first glance it looks great Now I just need a new puppy so I can begin foundation training all over again, working up to the weaves once he/she is old enough - good excuse to add another one I think !

And I don't stop my dogs running around and jumping things when they are puppies either because I can't - but I'm certainly not talking about deliberately setting up jumps and putting them over them. By 12 months old my dogs have probably jumped off my deck without using the stairs, jumped over low lying plants in the yard chasing each other - one also jumped over a low fence. None of these things I was happy about, but you can't wrap them up in cotton wool and these things happen....... but they definitely didn't do any formal jump training until 12 months old - and not at full height then. I actually read an article explaining the difference between the 2 (running and jumping free in play and formal jumping) which was great but do you think I can find it?????? Not a fan of Silvia Trkman in any way BTW. Yes, her dogs are awesome and very fast but this seems to blind people to her manic, frantic style of handling. Doesn't do anything for me. Watch her on Youtube and then watch Susan Garrett- miles of difference in both handling and training styles and I know which one I'd prefer to emulate! Not really a fan of the European style of handling in general - speed seems to be given preference over anything including dog's safety. Love fast but not manic. I would probably be taking my advice from top US, Canadian or English handlers rather than European, but that's just my opinion. We have been taking dogs from 6 months of age at Agility Dog Club Vic. but that is going to change next year and they will need to be 12 months to join Foundation class. Not that they were doing anything in that class that was physically damaging but mentally we were finding that most just weren't ready to be in a group agility class situation. So from now on, the only dogs allowed to join from 6 months will be dogs with an experienced agility handler who has trained a dog to a particular level before. And most of them will only put their young dogs in for a few minutes at a time anyway to work on foundation equipment with some distractions. And there is so much foundation training you can do with young dogs - I'm a huge fan of foundation and getting it right first. Working on your body language away from equipment is way more important than putting young dogs over jumps. The Chris Zink book 'Coaching the Canine Athlete' has good guidelines for the 'generally best age' to begin equipment, and she has weave poles listed as between 12 and 14 months if that's any help.

I should have thought of that - duh ! Apparently the problem is supposed to be fixed now , plus I emailed Susan and she suggested leaving a space before entering the code so hopefully this time it will work. Fingers Crossed !

For those who have purchased it : What did you enter in the zipcode area? I have tried to buy it and it won't accept my postcode, keeps saying it is incorrent but it is marked a field that has to be filled out. Have already indicated that I am outside US/Canada and put Australia in country, but no luck.

This is the base of the adjustable one close up. Instead of the usual hinges on the side, it has a chain along the ground to adjust the height. Should be easy enough for someone to make.

I can PM you details of the 'maker' if you like - but only problem is he is in Victoria. Are you on the Agility Australia list? If so, maybe posting a request for anyone that makes a fully height adjustable seesaw might get you a contact for NSW - there must be more people out there making something like this, surely? I can photograph the base to show how it adjusts if that is any help?

Kavik - I am petite (155cm), not particularly strong - LOL- and have no trouble moving my seesaw by myself. OK, I need to take it apart first, but it is designed to do so quickly and easily. The plank is in 2 parts which fit together so snugly you can't tell but make it very easy to move and easy to store. Plus it is fully height adjustable which means I can start training in the method with the table others have described, then move to a very low seesaw and gradually adjust it (has a chain under the base) link by link so that the height rise happens so gradually the dogs almost don't notice. This is the same design seesaw we use at club as our training seesaw - although much harder to do the link by link thing in a club situation (but still means that they don't have to go from 'mini to full height' in one step) great for home though. With my youngest kelpie I moved one link up every day (would have gone slower if there were a problem) and it only took about 2 weeks of doing this to get to full height. You would also have the option of getting someone to make you a full size one in aluminum which would be even lighter but pretty costly. Worth it if you can afford it though. (Hell, lobby for an expensive birthday present - you're worth it ) I agree that I would go for something that goes to full height - have never seen a training seesaw in a smaller size (if that's what you meant) but also agree that it may cause problems down the track. (At least you've got the offer to practice on a full length one though ) Not sure about NSW? but in Vic. there is so much variance between seesaws from place to place that it can cause problems even for experienced dogs, so I can only imagine what going from 'size to size' may do.

I have an OzTent - not cheap but is the only thing I can put up by myself at 155cm (me!). Goes up in about 10 seconds and was well worth the money. I think they have a website, so you could google them and have a look. At a trial last year when there was a severe storm overnight, the only tents left standing were the OzTents. Doesn't fold down all that small though so you would probably need to consider roofracks?

Two different contact training methods - Buzz had 2o2o and Encore does a running. Ironic that she should miss at worlds too as when she was here she said that the only reason she taught Encore a running was to get that fraction of a second edge to win worlds. (Looks like Murphy's Law also applies to agility! ) And yeah, I love watching her run too - awesome handler.

Hey, Brock will get there as I know you work hard with him - wait and see. I think you just answered your own question....... if you feel you are rushing in any way entering, then don't. Even though you have to bite the bullet sometime, the more mentally prepared you feel the more it will transfer to your dog IMO. And even a judge doesn't know your dog as well as you do. On the other hand, sometimes it's good to enter just once with no aspirations and expectations, but just to take it as a 'run through under pressure' to see where you are and what you need to fix. Is this your home club trial as I know you have one coming up? If so, something else to consider...... would you feel less nervous at a familiar ground?

Always love watching that dog - can see why the kelpies are taking it to the BC's in England. I believe that handler has just imported a new kelpie from Australia.

Firstly you need to not think of trialling in terms of 'pass' or 'fail' or you are going to spend a great deal of your trialling career disappointed. Not sure what discipline of trialling - obedience? agility? other? you are referring to, but I will give you my take on agility as I'm sure it carries over to other areas. Going clear is only one small part of an agility run - OK I'll admit that it's a very nice part! but the bond and teamwork between you and your dog far outweighs this IMO, whether you go clear or not. Same could be said for obedience I think? Ultimately YOU have to make the decision yourself, but here are some things you might want to think about to help you make the decision: -Discuss with your instructor (sounds as if you have done that one) -Is your dog physically capable of running a full course at full height and mentally capable of handling the stress of the trial ring? - impossible to replicate in training. Or for obedience, the same trial stress would still be there so the metal readiness would be a factor. -How well does your dog retain focus on you with distractions present? (If there is even the slightest chance that your dog may leave the ring and go anywhere near another dog, then do not enter until this is under control - have seen a potentially huge incident narrowly avoided when a novice dog ran into the next ring - and sometimes they set up rings bordering each other at some trials) This would be true for both agility and I guess for obedience on the stays? -Can your dog perform all equipment safely and on both sides - expect to lose on average 50% of your training when you go into the ring for the first time. May not have the safety issue with obedience? but I would imagine losing the 50% still true. -Will your dog hold a startline stay? Don't be fooled into thinking you can work on this down the track - get it right from the beginning. -Do you have a consistent method of 'handling' your dog with a system of cues - body, position, movement, verbal, etc ? Would this be the same for obedience? -Is your dog comfortable on long driving trips and being left alone either crated or in the car? -Have you visited a trial with your dog? Walked around the rings and seen how your dog reacted? Have you volunteered at a trial yourself? Stewarding is a great way to learn how it all works first hand and IMO should be compulsory for a 'newbie' to do it at least once - plus you get the best seat in the house to watch from ! -Are you able to set goals for your runs on the day that don't include passing, winning, etc. ? Things like ' I will give my signals early' and ' I will not crowd my dog in the weave poles', etc. Or for obedience, maybe something along the lines of your movement in heel patterns? This type of goal setting makes it more likely you will succeed regardless of the outcome. And finally this(agility) quote is my favourite - it was posted to the Clean Run list a couple of years back and made by a US judge and competitor. She gave me permission to quote her in our club newsletter at the time so I'm sure she won't mind if I quote her again. 'When can you walk into the ring not caring about a Q, not caring about what other people think of you, not caring about being embarrassed in the ring? Are you willing to accept the blame for any mistakes and give full credit to your dog when things go well? When can you go into the ring with your best friend at your side, with the sole purpose of making sure your friend has the most fun they've ever had? Can you come out of the ring, no matter what happens, happy and smiling and thanking your dog for playing this game with you? Then....... you're ready' (Paige Port) Good Luck with your decision and don't let others influence in any way - YOU have to feel that you are ready before taking the plunge. And you're not alone - my 'baby' is making his agility debut in a couple of weeks and despite all the trialling experience I have with my other dog, I am still terrified at the thought !

Not sure if you want a lightweight one just for training or a 'competition standard' one like most clubs have? If you want to spend the money on 'the real deal' - try Plasticoat in Chambers Rd, Altona North or Purple Pig in Sunshine. They both have websites if you do a search - sorry, can't remember url off the top of my head. Tunnels are just mine ventilation shafts, so any company that sells mining equipment may also be able to help you.

I've had my Black Dog pouch for about 2 years now and no problems with it. Although like Laffi, it's more often in my bag and not on me as I tend to use my pockets or a specially designed tugging/treat pouch at agility. Has anyone else had trouble? LukeW, maybe you were just unlucky. It might be worth approaching the company (nice guy!) about it to see how long they believe it should last for, as in general, their products are pretty sturdy. We deal with them through our agility club and resell some of the products to members so I will ask if anyone else has had problems with them wearing out.

:D :D Love it ! (Don't think he's going to tho')

OK, will definitely be checking out Clark rubber - sounds ideal. Jen, I love the idea of the water trough or tank, I would never have thought of that - and we have actually just sent part of an old tank to the tip ! Clyde, mine were given a helping hand (ie : push) the first time at the swimming pool. They already knew how to swim and liked the water but were just unsure about the steps/ramp going in. Now they are fine. My friend actually 'engineered' her kelpie falling in at the small pool at Kepala (this one is not like the formal pool with the leads, vests, etc. before anyone starts having a fit about safety) by using a ball on a long rope just out of his reach. That worked well too. BTW, does anyone know if Scampers doggy pool at Sunbury is still going?

Thanks for the replies guys. Bordacollies4me - that sounds exactly what I am looking for - my kelpies also run in and out (more out than in) at the beach or in a river but my ACD has to be dragged out of the water, literally! (Great looking dogs in your signature BTW.) PixieofWrath - I don't think the blow up version would be strong enough to withstand doggy toenails, but not sure ? I am thinking more in line with the pool on the Greg Derrett Agility Foundation DVD - agility people will know exactly what I mean, looks more like a very sturdy canvas on a frame. Jess - I didn't even think of asking Kepala, great idea, will talk to Dale next time I see him. And will hopefully see you and Darcy on the weekend......... and I've just heard the forecast for..............rain Deja Vu?

Thanks for the replies. Nekhbet, council seems to mainly have restrictions on inground pools here as everyone is on tank water, no mains. Although a new inground one is going in on next street so I guess they must be issuing some permits even for those. Gonna cost them a hell of a lot to fill it using the water carrier! Yeah, I could do the treadmill thing but it doesn't really excite me. They already run with me and walk up a massive hill once a week (ie: pull me up the hill!) I like the idea of swimming as it is gentler and one kelpie has minimal flexion in his wrist due to accident a couple of years back, so I thought swimming might be good for that. I have a couple of dams on my property but not keen to let them swim there - not just snakes , although they scare the crap out of me, but according to my neighbour the people we bought the place from threw a whole lot of old bike frames into the big dam - and I'm not dredging it to find out. Plus in a small pool I can control them doing laps and they're not just running in and out as they please. Jess, do you bath Darcy after the beach? I (read that as 'OH') bath mine afterwards but not sure if it is necessary or not? (might see you on the beach at Warrnambool this weekend?) Can anyone tell me anything about swimming them in chlorine?