oakway

human hormone replacement and dogs Warning-Human HRT Creams affect Dogs Who would have thought anything like this could happen? Permission has been granted to post as long as it is attributed to the author of the article as noted in the last sentence. Here is a heads up if you use hormone replacement therapy creme>>> I came across an eye-opening article that I thought you'd all would find interesting. It was written by a Rhodesian breeder who is also a vet. To make a long story short, she had a litter & sold a puppy to a couple, who contacted her a week later telling her that they thought that the puppy had a UTI. The puppy was treated (not by the vet/breeder as the puppy lived several states away) but did not get better. Over the next few months things got much worse with constant incontinence & extremely swollen external genitalia. The breeder finally thought to ask if the owner was using Hormone Replacement Therapy, which she was, rubbing the cream on her arms. The puppy had absorbed the cream though it's skin. Additionally, the husband was also using an HRT cream in the same manner & the puppy had absorbed high levels of estrogen, progesterone, & testosterone. It was found that in addition to the incontinence & swelling, the puppy's bone marrow had been suppressed & she was anemic. They don't know what the long term effects will be as the pup is only 7 months old. The husband & wife were instructed to apply the cream with gloves in an area the puppy could not come in contact with. Since this incident, the same breeder/vet diagnosed the same thing in a 6 month old Doberman. She feels that this will escalate as the cream application of HRT is becoming more popular & wants to send a warning to all breeders when sending puppies off to new homes. This was in "The Ridgeback" The article is titled "A Cautionary Tale" by Danielle Sand, VMD & it's in Issue 4 2012

Have you tried using plastic collars.

The only advise I can offer is similar to Sandra777. Just make sure that the breeder is a registered breeder with your states controlling body and holds a current membership with a Breeding prefix. If not, do what was suggested above run a mile away. All ethical registered breeders will give you a diet sheet along with all other relevant paperwork. I am always getting into trouble for saying this, but I always advise people to go to people that show their dogs and put titles on them to purchase a puppy. WHY......because we have people that get membership and a prefix just to be able sell registered pups but have never bred a champion nor attend dog shows. Therefore I believe they are breeding for the profit not for the improvement of the breed. Of course there can always be an exception to the rule. :)

The price of $4.14 a Kilo for the 7kg bag is good against the 3kg bag. VIP.

All going well you may shortly be seeing it in Coles. :)

What some of us do as we get older and find it harder to bend is to get a small bath that is raised to a height suitable for us and then have it plummed in for hot and cold so we can just turn on the taps to fill and/or attach a spray hose and then we can wash in clean running water at all times.

This is what is in the Qld. Rules for age. Class 1 “Baby Puppy Dog” – for dogs of three and under six months of age. Class 1a “Baby Puppy Bitch” – for bitches of three and under six months of age. Class 2 “Minor Puppy Dog” – for dogs of six and under nine months of age. Class 2a “Minor Puppy Bitch” – for bitches of six and under nine months of age. Class 3 “Puppy Dog” – for dogs of six and under twelve months of age. Class 3a “Puppy Bitch” – for bitches of six and under twelve months of age. Class 4 “Junior Dog” – for dogs of nine and under eighteen months of age. Class 4a “Junior Bitch” – for bitches of nine and under eighteen months of age.

Contact Wayrod on this forum. I can not recommend him highly enough.

:thumbsup:

I use the gardening secateurs' to cut the chicken frames, so much easier. My Italians can eat half a frame if that is any guide for you. (also depends on the size of the frame) I just cut through the neck and along the spine.

Have you had the dogs Thyroid checked ?. I would suggest a T5 done and sent to Jean Dodds at Hemo Pet for analysis, HEMOLIFE (Diagnostic Division of HEMOPET) 11561 Salinaz Avenue, Garden Grove, CA 92843 Tel: 714-891-2022; Fax: 714-891-2123; Fax: 714-891-2124 (lab) www.hemopet.org www.nutriscan.org E-Mail: [email protected]

Sorry but no cat should be left to wander at will as it can cause so much damage to the wildlife. Your cat should be confined to your property either in the house and / or a cat pen and so should the other cat to its own property. It doesn't matter what the cat wants. Some councils are fining owners that do not confine their cats. :)

There are to many variables to this situation. I think just plain common sense is the best way to go. On a cold winters day in Tasmania my lot still need their rugs on and the heater going, it can be minus down there. To an over 40 deg, day in Qld. and they are usually in the air con at home while I suffer at the shops in the heat. lol. Also don't forget some people get upset when they see dogs in cars on go off on a tangent when the dog will be quite happy till the owner returns. This does not apply when it's far to hot have a dog/dogs left in cars and I travel to a lot of dog shows in 40 deg heat and mine manage quite ok in a Qld summer. Sure it gets hot but most of have air con in the vehicles. We also have plenty of fans and generators to run them while we are showing. (I must admit that my dogs get more upset about being cold than hot).

Thank you. How long has the dog been on it before the thyroid test was done? August 2011 Also was on seaweed meal before this. (This way I killed two birds with the one stone nutrition and teeth). I believe the disclaimer on the bottle is there to safe guard the manufacture just in case. Always remember that many people believe that if one scoop is good, lots more may be better when one is more than sufficient.

I stumbled across this thread while researching plaque removers for my dogs. Do you know whether regular use of this is okay for the dog without thyroid problems? Afterall, its a dose of iodine a day compared to literally none at all right now. Is there a difference with the brand. I flipped through a number of pages on this thread and some people talk about Troys and other talk about Proden. Are they the same thing just different brands? Thanks. Troy is the Australian distributor for ProDen. It is so much cheaper to purchase from overseas than through the Troy company. I use e bay overseas. Look through them as some are cheaper than others and the postage can vary so keep a good lookout. The amount given has has had no effect on any of my dogs. One has just had a Thyroid T5 done (for breeding purposes) in America and the results are excellent. The amount given daily is so small and what's more, it works.

Lets face it, you only need to write copy only on them and then they are valueless.

My puppies are never fed Puppy food they are started on adult and stay on it. If puppies can eat chicken necks the can eat frames. Good luck with your pup and most of all have fun.

If this what what you want then I would re asses the breeds, a group 4 sight hound may not be the breed for you. :)

Farewell sweet boy you did your Mumma proud.

I show in Qld. and NSW and have receintly come back from Tas. and I have found the stewarding in theses states to be very efficient. When I showed in VIC. I found it to be on a par with the other states.

I'd love to say that this had been my experience, but in my 6 months of showing experience now I'd say about 70% of the time it hasn't been at the shows I've been at! But like I said, I just stay ringside - it means I can watch the other dogs that eventually one day we will compete against and see a bit more of what goes on with all these things!! I have been stewarding for well over 30 years and unless I can see your number and follow the judges placings how can I fill in my stewards sheet. The placings are called out and the numbers for challenge are all called for you to line up in order of class. Could some states stewarding be slipping ????????. I must admit I have not seen it in Qld., NSW or Tas. :)

[Print A4 PDF of Breed Standard] [print page] GREYHOUND STANDARD. AUSTRALIAN STANDARD. Group: Group 4 (Hounds) History: General Appearance: Strongly built, upstanding, of generous proportions, muscular power and symmetrical formation, with long head and neck, clean well laid shoulders, deep chest, capacious body, slightly arched loin, powerful quarters, sound legs and feet, and a suppleness of limb, which emphasise in a marked degree its distinctive type and quality. Characteristics: Possessing remarkable stamina and endurance. Temperament: Intelligent, gentle, affectionate and even tempered. Head And Skull: Long, moderate width, flat skull, slight stop. Jaws powerful and well chiselled. Eyes: Bright, intelligent, oval and obliquely set. Preferably dark. Ears: Small, rose-shaped of fine texture. Mouth: Jaws strong with a perfect, regular and complete scissor bite, i.e. the upper teeth closely overlapping the lower teeth and set square to the jaws. Neck: Long and muscular, elegantly arched, well let into shoulders. Forequarters: Shoulders oblique, well set back, muscular without being loaded, narrow and cleanly defined at top. Forelegs, long and straight, bone of good substance and quality. Elbows free and well set under shoulders. Pasterns moderate length, slightly sprung. Elbows, pasterns and toes inclining neither in nor out. Body: Chest deep and capacious, providing adequate heart room. Ribs deep, well sprung and carried well back. Flanks well cut up. Back rather long, broad and square. Loin powerful, slightly arched. Hindquarters: Thighs and second thighs, wide and muscular, showing great propelling power. Stifles well bent. Hocks well let down, inclining neither in nor out. Body and hindquarters, features of ample proportions and well coupled, enabling adequate ground to be covered when standing. Feet: Moderate length, with compact, well-knuckled toes and strong pads. Tail: Long, set on rather low, strong at root, tapering to point, carried low, slightly curved. Gait/Movement: Straight, low reaching, free stride enabling the ground to be covered at great speed. Hind legs coming well under body giving great propulsion. Coat: Fine and close. Colour: Black, white, red, blue, fawn, fallow, brindle or any of these colours broken with white. Sizes: Ideal Height: Dogs 71-76 cms (28-30 ins) Bitches 69-71 cms (27-28 ins) Faults: Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in exact proportion to its degree and its effect upon the health and welfare of the dog. AKC Breed Standard Head - Long and narrow, fairly wide between the ears, scarcely perceptible stop, little or no development of nasal sinuses, good length of muzzle, which should be powerful without coarseness. Teeth very strong and even in front. Ears ­ - Small and fine in texture, thrown back and folded, except when excited, when they are semi-pricked. Eyes ­ - Dark, bright, intelligent, indicating spirit. Neck - ­ Long, muscular, without throatiness, slightly arched, and widening gradually into the shoulder. Shoulders - ­ Placed as obliquely as possible, muscular without being loaded. Forelegs ­ - Perfectly straight, set well into the shoulder, neither turned in or out, pasterns strong. Chest ­ -Deep, and as wide as is consistent with speed, Fairly well sprung ribs. Back ­ - Muscular and broad. Loins ­ - Good depth of muscle, well-arched, well cut up in the flanks. Hindquarters ­ - Long, very muscular and powerful, wide and well let down, well-bent stifles. Hocks well bent and rather close to the ground, wide but straight fore and aft. Feet ­ - Hard and close, rather more hare than cat feet, well knuckled up with good strong claws. Tail ­ - Long, fine and tapering with a slight upward curve. Coat ­ - Short, smooth and firm in texture. Color ­ - Immaterial Weight ­ - Dogs, 65 to 70 pounds: Bitches, 60 to 65 pounds. Scale of Points General Symmetry & Quality 10 Head and Neck 20 Chest and Shoulders 20 Back 10 Quarters 20 Legs and Feet 20 Total 100 Notes:

Yeah, I go for the Flak Jacket to.

The class placing are always called out by the steward. :) Watch what the judge is doing as they usually point to all the place getters, other wise how would the persons marking catalogues know where to place the dogs. You will learn as times goes by and become more fully acquainted with the ring procedure. If you are the only dog in the class you need to come back for the Challenge line up. If you are second in your class you may need to stay close to the ring. If the dog that beat you gets the challenge you will be required to go back in for res. Chal. As for ribbons if you are placed and want the ribbon go and find it at the secretary's tent/office or the writers table. Usually only the in group and in show ribbons are handed out in the ring. At the Royals place ribbons are usually handed out in the ring.

Look here. http://www.dogsqueensland.org.au/New-Member-Information.aspx