bloss344

Have you tried the Produce store in North Croydon? Petstock Lilydale. Petstock Mitcham. they will probably be out. I couldn't get LB puppy either. This is why I contacted EP and found out that the adult foods are ok for puppies. Their formulations are different to other companies. I'm not too sure what's going on with EP as I contacted USA about a few things and they said there shouldn't be any problems with getting the products here. The person I dealt with was going to contact the International Distribution Manager and try to work it out.

I got this info from Eagle Pack. They advise puppies are taken off puppy food quite early. It's only their formulas however, not others. I didn't suggest feeding small dogs Large Breed formulas.

Eagle Pack has the added benefit that some of the adult formulas are also suitable for puppies. Means you only have to buy one food if you have dogs of different ages.

That's great tthat they have a definite diagnosis, and a good warning for those of us who have dogs and litter trays. I knew pregnant women can be badly affected by toxo but not dogs. Very interesting.

Giving in and letting him sleep in your bed means he wins this time. What do you want, him to sleep in his crate or your bed? Is your puppy nice and warm in his crate? Do you cover it to keep it dark and snug? By putting your fingers in to soothe him you are in fact teaching him to make noise to get your attention. They are very clever. Have you tried ear plugs? How old is your puppy? 4 pee breaks a night seems an awful lot. Leah only ever needed one when she was 8-9 weeks old. I doubt your puppy held on to pee in the crate, might be worthwhile having the vet check a sample if the frequent pee continues especially as this is new.

I'd forget the beef stock, perhaps a sprinkle of garlic powder or a clove of garlic for flavour. Broccoli and Cauli can cause really bad wind so start that slowly. Are they having any bones, there's no mention of calcium. Stews like this used to be really popular years ago. Now it's mostly raw or kibble.

Yep, what they don't realise is I have taken Bob to obedience every week when it's on regardless of rain, hail or shine, so he gets socialisation and training. We did one year at one club then changed over to another, started again in Basic, worked through and have completed Intermediate which is like the CCD class. Him acting politely didn't happen overnight or even in one year. I don't need people with their well meaning ideas to undo the work I have done because they think my dog needs a friend in his face. I really needed this rant too. :D

It seems people without dogs who have issues such as anxiety or fear or whatever really don't understand how these dog's do need their space. They don't perceive a problem with letting their dog rush or encroach on another dog's space. My Bob wears a yellow bandana at club, because he has stress and anxiety issues which can cause him to be fear aggressive. The yellow bandana alerts other dog owners to the fact that the dog wearing it has some sorto of issue which requires the dog have space. Seems pretty simple to me. No, every week I have to have eyes in the back of my head because others let their dogs wander and rush over to us while we are standing still. I move, and the handler and dog follow. Today OH took Bob to class. A woman walked into class with a quite vocal dog, looks at Bob and asks OH "what issues does your dog have" OH explains he is fear aggressive etc. Her reply was "he looks okay to me". WTF. The bandana is not a fashion accessory. He wears it for a reason. Once you have a reactive dog you never quite see the world the same way when your dog is with you. I understand a lot of people at dog club think it's great to let their dogs socialise. Well and dandy just keep away from Bob and his yellow bandana.

as above

This might be of some interest to someone. It's an interview between Linda Arndt, a breeder of Great Danes and the owner of EP. http://www.greatdanelady.com/eaglefoodsinterview2.htm I've copied the relevant bit as it's a bit long. There's actually 2 pages of interview. I know it's all marketing but I'm always open to different opinions. I feed my puppy EP adult food. Q:Linda: I encourage breeders to get these giant breeds off puppy food by 8 weeks of age at the latest, and switch to a high quality but lower protein food to slow the growth process. I was so interested to see that you are the only company that actually states something to this effect on the bag. A:Joe: Yes, we agree with your statement. In fact, if you look at our packaging, it states that you should switch from our puppy food very early to one of our other Eagle Pack products. The reasons being, if you look at the food structure of our products, you will find that all of our products incorporate all of the ingredients that we have in our puppy food … that is generally not the case with other companies. Our food is formulated for the specific application of feeding a puppy when he is very small, then moving him over to one of our other products. A lot of other products force the breeder to buy a variety of things to supplement a poorer quality food in order to accomplish the same thing that we do with the product alone - it is already in our diets. For us, it is important to have a complete quality vitamin and mineral package in all our products. Here is a good example: let's say a breeder is feeding a maintenance food, then they realize there has been an accidental breeding. This could present some serious problems because the female is not nutritionally ready to support these puppies. So it is our feeling, why not make sure she is ready no matter what the situation. Q:Linda: I know that if I wanted to raise a litter on your 20% or 23% protein diet I could, because the caloric intake is such that it is suited for growth; plus you use high-quality sequestered vitamins/minerals, digestive enzymes and friendly bacteria. What I mean, is every product in your line has the same important ingredients. The protein and fat levels vary depending on the product and its application. A:Joe: Yes, sometimes breeders think that a lesser-protein diet is a lesser quality diet, and a higher-protein food means a higher quality diet. This is not necessarily true. We can look at an Eagle product with a 30% protein - 20% fat that is delivering approximately 2,220 calories. Now we can take the protein down to 20% and fat to 12%, and essentially we have reduced the product content by 35%, if we just look at the imperical numbers. But we have only reduced the caloric content by 10%; this shows you what you can do if you carefully select your ingredients. We have taken the high caloric intake value (which is fat) and reduced 40% of the animal fat yet only reduced 10% of the calories.

Apparently Pantene leaves a coating of silicone on the hair, that's why the dirt would stick to it. The silicone makes the hair shiny like on the adds.

Ridgygirl: Try feeding the RC for a week and then add in one food in a tiny amount for a few days and see what reaction you get. No reaction then increase the amount. Then try another addition. If your dog tolerates the RC ok this would be the easiest way. Dog's digestive systems are all so individual, some need less fibre, some more, some tolerate large amounts of fats, others can't tolerate much fat at all. It tends to be trial and error and time. There are some other possibilities too like chronic low grade bacteria or parasites in the bowel, might be worthwhile having your vet check a sample of poo to eliminate these. No change of diet will fix it if that is the problem.

I agree with what the others have said. This pup is fearful and reacting in a way it feels is appropriate, regardless of the fact the other puppies are smaller and younger. It feels the need to nip in the bud any perceived potential threat. Fearful dogs can be very unpredictable. Getting some sort of help early from a behaviourist is the way to go, it won't get better on it's own.

Bob has anal gland issues a lot and has never had a limp tail. Usually they will scoot or lick, lick, lick with anal gland problems. I'd hazard a guess that it's a bite or she's hurt it in some way, wagging.

Leah is 4 mo 15kg and can go from 10 o'clock until 5 or 6 am. She's crated and has been doing this for about 5 weeks, so your pup should be able to do it, but may need a bit of training the first few nights as he's not used to it.

:rolleyes: LOL sounds like my OH he thinks it's muscle on him making him wider too. Seriously though perhaps just cut back a bit and see if that helps. It's all about calories in and calories out just like us. If he's getting bigger then he's eating too much. Perhaps cut back on the bikkies cos they can be pretty calorie dense or change to a light formula. When my dog's start to get a bit lardy I just reduce the amount a bit and see what happens. I do however monitor what Bob eats as he has intolerances so his food is pretty much the same all the time and it's easy to cut the amount back or increase it. If you are giving dog biscuits/treats as well perhaps cut them out.

Bob has done this on the odd occasion. Once he's moving it's all fine. I put it down to his leg falling asleep.

That was it. I knew there was something about the hcl and the sulphate. Thanks.

Eagle Pack Natural for adults and Eagle Pack Large Breed Puppy is the same food, just different packaging.

There is glucosamine hcl and glucosamine sulphate. One is more bioavailable to dogs than the other and I could be wrong I think it's hcl. This product has sulphate. Can someone in the know let us know? I think ginger is okay for dogs but don't know in what amount would be safe.

Nothing more helpful to add but was wondering how does the puppy act at Puppy Pre School?

I've never had a lab but have been told that the puppies are a lot of hard work. Gorgeous dogs though. It sounds like you are giving him quite a bit of stimulation but he needs something a bit more. Do you do any obedience training with him on a daily basis? It stretches the mind and tires them out mentally. It's often said that 15 mins of mental stimulation is equal to 1 hour of exercise. Trick training is great for them too. ;) There are some toys such as kongs that you can stuff to keep him busy. You can scatter his food if he eats kibble, over the lawn and let him seek and find, or put it in a puzzle ball. There is a Home Alone toy that some people have had success with http://www.aussiedog.com.au/catalogue/c1/c8 As far as stopping in the middle of play to dig the lawn, that sounds like boredom. I find that if I play the same game [fetch] day in and day out, my dog gets bored, and will do a bit of digging or start looking for something else to do. Often I will play hide and seek then or do some training just so that what we are doing is not so predictable. ETA: Welcome to DOL

My Bob was like this. If I had a treat and I was trying to teach a new behaviour he'd offter me all his known behaviours in an effort to get the treat. He also would try to grab the treat, as if he was worried it would just disappear. It is frustrating but as you know it's also the sign of a very clever dog, who is using his mind to work out how to gain a treat from you. I found with Bob ignoring the behaviours he was offering, and there were plenty of them he'd shake, beg, spin, speak, drop, touch, sit, you get the gist, until he calmed a bit and I was able to get his attention, so we could calmly start again. Maturity helped him a bit, you haven't said how old your dog is. It was also helpful not to teach too many things at once, and to only work on one trick in a session, until your dog focuses better. Make sure your hand signals for the action you are asking for is consitent too.

In the past when there weren't Large Breed Puppy foods available it used to be suggested that LB puppies were put onto adult food at about 5 months. Now that the LB Puppy foods are readily available pups can stay on that. My vet said pretty much the same thing as the OP's vet, he actually told me not to buy the high powered dog foods like the ones they sell at the clinic. He's obviously not a fan of the commercial food, but also obviously not up to date with current knowledge and products. At least I don't have to worry about him trying to sell me a product every time I go there. There are some foods out there that are for all life stages but mostly they are marketed for specific stages. Large Breed puppy food should have lower calcium and phosphorus as well as protein and fat.

Yep, I thought it was great. Positive, positive, positive and so practical as well. Hopefully the book will be available here.