cowanbree

Pet insurance is ok but in reality only for the young healthy dogs and even then the limits don’t cover everything. I have recently spent over $6,000 on one of my dogs so looked into it. Not only was he too old at 9yrs but also the most they would have covered was under $2,000. I have an emergency account for instances such as this but otherwise would borrow it. The one thing I wouldn’t do is allow my dog to live on it pain because I couldn’t afford it and didn’t want to pts – I see this happen quite often.

I understand you may think it too many question (and I do think the income one is ott, having money is not an indication of a better home) but what you don’t realize is how many of the people that are contacting us are trying to deceive and just give the right answers to get the pup. I have had what were actually export agents visit and they appeared a lovely home on the surface, many of them in reality want to breed for the pet market and know no reputable breeder will sell to them. They lie about their fences, they lie about where the dog will be living etc etc etc. It is my responsibility to ensure that the puppies I bring into this world have a lovely life and if I lose a few really nice homes along the way so be it.

I would start her on solids and if she wasn't steadily gaining weight within a week I would pts. Not easy but often the best thing to do. The reason I say try solids first is bcause I have had a puppy that was lactose intollerant and did very poorly until on solids. After that he was fine.

I have had this one too. They swore that the area the unfenced pool was in wasnt used and the dogs wouldn't be in it yet it was the mained fenced area off from the family room and pictures made it quite clear it was a well used area. No puppy for them

I start the process with a questionnaire which has about 20 questions on it. The most important questionnaire is what other pets have you had and what happened to them. That question alone tells you quite a lot about the home. I just adore the ones that say they are going to train their dogs t stay within the property without fences and then they state their last dog got run over. The questionnaire questions also have options which will immediately eliminate them from a puppy eg, what type of fencing do you have, one of the options is none but the dog will be confined by way of a running chain. After I get that back if I think they are suitable (this eliminates about 80%) I will ring them and informally chat to them and get a feel for them. I ask for references and yes I do check them in some cases. If they are local at this stage I let them visit or I visit them with a couple of puppies. If they are not local I arrange a home check

I use a couple of layers of drybed. It isn't as thick as one of those beds but is easily washable and dryers very fast

In the end a hobby isn't a reason to stay in a relationship, life is too short for that. Who knows once you get settled you may be able to buy a few years down the track

As a purchaser I am still good friends with the breeder I brought my original sheltie off over 25years ago. I have brought shelties off 4 other breeders since then and have close contact with 2 of them and occasional with the other 2. My aussies are a bit different. I do still e-mail them occasionally but not very often at all. That may be because I am a fellow breeder of the shelties so we have a common interest whereas I am really a pet owner of aussies. As a breeder I keep in contact with all of my puppies. I ring them on their birthday and send Xmas cards which most of them reciprocate. Apart from that, after the first 12mths I only ever hear from if they are wanting another or something good or bad has happened. In the end all you can do is be there for them

I have a troop of shelties and 2 aussies. Each dog is an individual and has different needs so it is difficult to generalise but are divided into a few different categories. - puppies under 12mths don’t get formal walks but get to go to show training, basic obedience and a lot of different outings. I try to give them toys but to be honest my older dogs steal and destroy them and they seldom last beyond a day or two. - Over 12mths to 8ish. This is my young pack. They play all day together, have a racetrack round my acre section and have a great time. They go for formal walks but have to take their turn so it is not every day. I normally take 4 out to a reserve where they have a free run for at least an hour. I seldom do formal lead walks unless I am road working a dog to get him fit for the show ring. - Oldies. These are made up of my retirees. The ones that are fit enough come every where with me in the car, have free run of the house and sleep on the bed. As they get older they are not really that interested in going for walks although I do still take them for a toddle but it is more to get out and about than formal exercise. They would rather sit on my knee watching TV than go for a walk at the reserve. In the middle pack I have 2 aussies. The youngest one esp is quite high energy. I try and play ball with him daily, he has a sandpit in his run and he is always walked daily. I also do things like hide and seek with toys etc

Learn to live with it. Buy a good lux and don't buy clothes hair clings too. I have also found that short haired dogs are actually a lot worse shdders than my shelties. Had a Corgi stay and his hair was everywhere

Personally I wouldn't leave such a young puppy loose in the yard either and also wouldn't have him down to 2 meals at such a young age. If he was mine he would have a safe kennel and run and be only 3 meals for at least another 4-6weeks. You can still do 3 meals and work quite easily without coming home for lunch. Mind you I also don't think crating dogs for such long periods of time is a good idea either

Does she have free range in the back yard? Shelties are barkers, it is not that they are bored but rather easily stimulated. Is it possibly to contain her in the yard away from neighbours etc?

I don't put my sheltie puppies outside, they bark too much and are stimulated by everything. They are kenneled in a area which is well away from neighbours and front of the property. Failing that I would pen them inside

I have just discussed this with my vet this week after a fright with a rat in the weekend. He said it is extremely unlikely a dog will be affected by eating 1 dead rat or mouse, their stomach are too small to contain a significant amount of the poison. He said in all his years as a vet the only cases he has seen is where dogs have got into significant amounts of the bait itself. He also gave me a brochure for a bait which is being sold as safe for pets. I unfortunately can’t remember the name of it

Puppies have to learn to respect their elders. If the older dog is not wanting to play the puppy has to leave her alone. In my house I have a variety of ages from the grumpy old girls to a 5mth old pup. The oldies are not interested in the young pup and quickly tell them off by growling and snapping at them. The puppies very quickly learn manners and I generally leave the old girls to it. The only time I will intervene is when the puppies are not listening and then it is the puppies that are crated until they settle down.

Bones. I have always been very pro bones as part of the diet even though I have had the odd cracked tooth and a few other small issues. Great for the dog and the added bonus of having nice clean teeth. After Cowans incident I will pay for dentals, no more bones in this house. Not only did it cost thousands but more importantly my dog has had a terrible time and will never eat a normal meal again

What kind of specialist? Internal medicine but you will need a referal from your vet

Pleased to hear that Noopy. My lad was going through the same thing and we haven't been as lucky. 7 weeks on and he has a stricture that means he will have to eat blended food for life. I am just thankful he is still here.

Thanks everyone

Mine ate them which is highly undesirable. I had to lift them and put gravel down

I have looked at these muzzles but they all seem quite open with reasonable gaps at the end. Wouldn't that allow him to get to the food?

The best advice I can give you is consult a specialist, wish I had long before I did

I love getting pictures and updates but the sad truth is most pet people don’t do that after the first 12mths. I always ring or e-mail them on their birthdays but other than that only hear from them if they are wanting another or there is some issue. I do have a few that send me regular updates but they are few and far between.

I have a sheltie who has throat issues and can’t eat normal food. This is controllable within my own house but there seems to be food everywhere I go outside the house so I am looking for a muzzle for him that will prevent him eating the food. I am not concerned if it also restricts drinking as he will only wear it while I am with him but I would like it to be as unobtrusive as possible while still doing the job. All the muzzles I have seen either wouldn’t stop him eating or look extremely heavy and uncomfortable. Can anyone recommend a brand?

My lads throat ulcers were caused by vomiting and the stomach acid burning the throat. Maybe that is what happened with your dog? Is your dog eating ok? I had to put a stomach tube in to bypass the throat which was being aggravated by food and give the throat a chance to heal. Sounds like the meds you were on were Carafate. Why were they stopped if the ulcers aren’t healed. Cowan is 7 weeks down the road of recovery, ulcers seem to take a long time to heal