Seita

There's a club in Burdekin and in Proserpine... well at least there was 6 years ago when I last trialled there! Surely there would be something in Bowen?

Monah, yes that was me you spoke to with the sound of 8 youth group kids yelling at the top of their lungs behind me!!! It's only a few weeks to go now guys! Places are filling up pretty quickly so we should have a good group there!

So if we've paid before tomorrow we don't get the discount? ETA: I don't really care as its only $20 just wondering Pretty much, but at least you're guaranteed a spot and had first pick with cabins and things like that!!

Cabins are all gone guys so everyone else will be camping sorry! ***SPECIAL*** If you book and pay between the 10th and 17th of October Steve is offering a 10% discount on the workshop costs!

Rally Obedience I believe this comes out of the US and you do a heel pattern but you follow a course instead of being told what to do by a judge. Hopefully someone else can come along and explain this better for you Dog Orienteering I have no idea - but at a guess I would say it would be similar to normal orienteering but involve the dog in some way, or perhaps it's more like tracking?? Scentwork Generally this is either scent discrimination where the dog gets sent to a group of different articles (wood, leather, metal) and has to find the one with it's owners sent on it. The other scent exercise is the seek back where an article from the handler is dropped somewhere along the way and the dog is sent to find it. Obstacle courses (tunnels, weaving poles, A frames) This would be agility - a course made up of jumps and obstacles is laid out and numbered. The handler needs to guide the dog around the course correctly without missing any or knocking over any, there is usually a time limit to do this in as well. As you get to higher levels in this you get courses with more obstacles and shorter times!

You might just have to come along to the workshop! I'm sure it'll be worth it On another note, if anyone is still debating whether or not to come it's only a few weeks away now, so you'd better get in soon with a booking!

oxley trains on sundays from 7.30 - 9.30 (I think advanced class first followed by beginner). Val bonney's school works on a saturday morning at the Gap. Those are the only 2 that I know of unfortunately.

*bump*

1 cabin left

This is something that gets to me. A head collar puts pressure across the nose which most know is a very sensitive area, how is that any different from a collar that put pressure on the windpipe. If someone were to use an e-collar there would be no pressure at all, just low level stim which would in no way harm the dog. I think there are a lot of misconceptions over many training tools but if we're going to stop using one tool because is can damage a part of the dog how are we fixing the problem by using a tool that can cause just as much harm to another part of the dog? A mis-timed stim or misused E collar can create shutting down, frustration and learned helplessness. Just because it's not outwardly apparent physical harm, doesn't mean it is not harmful at all. This is swaying off topic of the original post, but everyone needs to put head collar use into some sort of perspective IMO. I would rather positively introduce a head collar over a number of weeks to a dog that is NOT getting walked at all because the owner is unable/unwilling to do so. I would rather see a dog happily wearing a head collar with some amount of aversive in there for pulling (balanced with R+ for correct walking behaviour) getting OUT of it's backyard each day and being mentally stimulated than not at all. Each case needs to be analysed in its individual situation in regards to owner and dog. The head collar (nor the E collar) for that matter is not something you can make blanket statements on in regards to training because every dog and owner is different!! Mel. I'm not against head collars a such and am sure there are people out there that due use them appropriately, it's just the fact that there are thousands of others out there that aren't using them correctly. I was meerly commenting on someone else's comment that the head collar causes less harm to the dog than a dog pulling on a flat collar and wanted to point out that the head collar has as much if not more potential to cause harm. I too would rather see a dog out on a head collar and being walked than not being walked at all, but IMO there are better tools and training methods that neither require a head halter nor a flat/check chain. I'm not sure that I'd want to train loose lead walking with an e-collar either but as this discussion is about halters and e-collar I'm trying to keep on topic. I definitely agree with you in that every case is different but when discussing these two tools it's easy to see which one is more readily available and therefore has a higher amount of misuse associated with it, hence my 'blanket' statement.

This is something that gets to me. A head collar puts pressure across the nose which most know is a very sensitive area, how is that any different from a collar that put pressure on the windpipe. If someone were to use an e-collar there would be no pressure at all, just low level stim which would in no way harm the dog. I think there are a lot of misconceptions over many training tools but if we're going to stop using one tool because is can damage a part of the dog how are we fixing the problem by using a tool that can cause just as much harm to another part of the dog?

Hi guys just letting you know that I only have 2 cabins left at the moment so get in quick or you'll be camping!

Retriever trainers train their dogs to retrieve hidden articles, so going to a short distance box is comparatively simple. Start with a place board with a box surround. We certainly do not use food in the place box, as we do not wish our dogs to eat the reward/retrieve. But then again, if a hot dog was placed in situ/box, the REAL fun would begin. Hi LL, how do you get the dog to go to the place board? I was contemplating a similar method. We start SHORT!!!!! The (WHITE!!) board is higher (obvious to the dog) to achieve focus, remember bumpers/dummies are in place. I certainly observe attitude and use a turn on cue. I may start with food rewards/feeding meals, if a youngster is crazy to retrieve, to settle the dog. Too much drive may not be best. We possibly balance attitude with seen retrieves to maintain good momentum. Game playing also, is very important as our attitude. Setting up training for the baby puppy to win/for success, even going as far as a hallway. Whatever works. Dogs do not "lie" a poor figure of speech, but really look at our dog and what they do naturally. On flat featureless areas with little or no distractions. Gawd, I hope I make sense, we move on to long distances (starting with HOT/known areas up to 100 yards with factors,wind,water, obstancles, diversions) so quickly, basics can sometimes be forgotten. Eventually moving to further distances, across rivers, going straight along shorelines blah blah blah. Am I making sense???????????? Gawd I am hopeless with drill/exercise explanations. Also our 15 year old labrador may need to be let go tomorrow, so I am more than a little stressed. I can find you some retriever links, if you like? I think you make sense... your placing the retrieve item on the board so dog can easily see it, then increase distance and distraction until the dog no longer needs the target of the board and just goes by your direction? Am I on the right track? You're saying I can use the same principle to send a dog to the box, by first teaching the dog to go to a marker/board from close. Then increase distance, and ultimately remove the marker but leave the box??? Sorry to hear about your old dog, my old boy just passed away a few weeks ago too.

Retriever trainers train their dogs to retrieve hidden articles, so going to a short distance box is comparatively simple. Start with a place board with a box surround. We certainly do not use food in the place box, as we do not wish our dogs to eat the reward/retrieve. But then again, if a hot dog was placed in situ/box, the REAL fun would begin. Hi LL, how do you get the dog to go to the place board? I was contemplating a similar method.

Try the show ring forum, there may be a few more showies in there that can help you!

Me of course! I can not wait!

Can't wait

Steve from K9force and I are pleased to annouce a Queensland workshop for the weekend of the 1st and 2nd of November 2008 to be held at Camp Tailwaggers in the Gold Coast Hinterland. The agenda for the 2 days is as follows: Saturday: Full day workshop on Aggression (with or without dogs) Saturday Night: 7-10pm 3 topics (no dogs) - The competitive edge training - Tools for the dog handler - Steve's socialisation and neutralisation program Sunday: Full day workshop (with or without dogs) 9:30 - 1pm - Solving problem behaviours 2-5pm Training in Drive Costs: Saturday or Sunday (1 day only) $100 - with or without dogs Saturday night only $50 Packages: Full 2 days and Saturday night $230 Family Pass - 2 Adults for the whole weekend $445 Accomodation: Cabins are $75 each and can sleep up to 3. These are limited so get in fast, once these are sold out we do have access to camping facilities for $10 per person. Please contact me if you want more information about the weekend or want to reserve a spot. I have a flyer with more detailed information about the workshop and topics just PM me with your email address and I'll get it to you. If you want to arrange accomodation let me know if you are happy to share or not and I'll try to match sharers up so that you can save on costs. Your spot will be confirmed when I receive payment in full. Edit to add: Meals are included in this price. If your just coming for one day then lunch will be provided, if your coming for the whole weekend there will be lunch (both days), dinner and breakfast.

How do you guys teach the send away to the box. I have no probs with the directed jumping but I'm trying to decide how to train the send away and thought I'd see what different methods you guys all use. I'm particularly interested in methods that don't use food and use toys instead as that's generally how I train but I'm open to all ideas.

Do you southerners get asked which end you want to do the recall from? I've never ever in all my years of trialling (at least 10 now) been asked this question, in QLD the judge usually puts out a marker (usually at the far end) and sends you up there.

I went, lots of people there last night... lots of people with little dogs too. I won't be there next week though.

My advice is keep your training fun and exciting all the time! I see soo many people who trial, who take their dogs to classes and do 'paddock bashing' heel work (ie - great big long chunks of heeling like most obedience clubs do). It's plain to see that after a few minutes the dogs are bored brainless, they then enter these dogs in trials and expect them to work when all the handler's have taught the dogs is that obedience is boring. I made this mistake with my first trial dog, hence why in the few years I (sparingly) trialled him his highest score was 145 and therefore NEVER even once got a pass. I don't train like that anymore and that's why this year my new girl completed 3 titles in 9 straight trials with a placing at 8 of those. I wouldn't have that sort of success if my dog didn't LOVE working for me!

I want to be there next week but I suspect that I'll actually be working! In between rain, holidays and work I make it once every few month!

not this thursday for me again... dog is on holidays at the parent's place!

I'm still confirming costs with Steve but at a guess I'll say that it'll be around the usual prices for a workshop but those wanting to stay, particularly those wanting their own rooms, will have to pay extra obviously.