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Seita

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Everything posted by Seita

  1. I dont know any people at trials so it does get a bit boring. But in no time Pax we will be going to trials together and I can always be last then. :p That's a perfect excuse to make friends!!! I used to be like that when I first started trialling again last year but I just wiggle my way under someone's gazebo or strike up a conversation with someone and I'm set!!
  2. LOL I know what you mean! My young boy (17 weeks) has ears going all over the place and only about half of his teeth!!
  3. From when I was a trial secretary I would usually sort by height for the UD and Open dogs followed by alphabetically on either owner or dog names depending on the mood I was in. I had a database and simple set in my sort parameters an then ran reports of the entries so it was all automated, I was lucky and never got any requests but if I did I would have edited the report slightly to try and work around requests. For double trials I usually reversed the order from the previous day. At the moment with my trial dog I am ofen right at the start or the end when it's sorted on dog name as her prefix starts with B but if it's sorted by height or my surname I'm usually in the middle of the class as I star with L and she's around the 500mm mark so middle of the range.
  4. hi, did someone PM you Jane Harper's contact details? I haven't yet and I seem to have lost them, if no one has yet I think Huski has them send her a PM and she'll be able to give them to you. Jane comes highly regarded not only amoung the public but also from other trainers, she's definitely one of the best people in Brisbane for you to contact.
  5. If you are looking for a trainer in Brissy I would recommend Jane Harper, I am not sure if she travels but if she doesn't (I think she's on the north side) then I am sure she knows someone to recommend to you. I can PM her contact details if you are interested.
  6. LOL! Your boys have taste! My girl will eat anything so I train with bits of carrot, bits of fruit plus bits of meat/cheese etc. I still need to work out what to use for my young boy, currently am using treats but don't want to do that forever Maybe I shouldn't add ... not just slow roasted but marinated in honey and a little soya sauce ... and then slow roasted Oh please!!! That is soo funny!
  7. LOL! Your boys have taste! My girl will eat anything so I train with bits of carrot, bits of fruit plus bits of meat/cheese etc. I still need to work out what to use for my young boy, currently am using treats but don't want to do that forever
  8. I also use Animal Options with my guys. Even when you go in for a check up or titre they do a full exam and will correct anything that's out. I just had my two down there last month and Ella's shoulder I think was out a bit and the vet (not rowan but another lady) stretched her out and got it all back where it should be. They also don't mind that you use another vet for your more normal things which is great as it probably is a bit of a trek for many people who head down there.
  9. Agree with what Kavik says and I have a lot of problems with this. "Yes i do agree that not all dogs are keen to run and play. However dogs of this nature have to learn to ignore and be non reactive to the doofus. " No they don't have to learn to ignore. Doofus' owner needs to give Doofus lessons in manners. Take a fearful dog and they will not learn to ignore, chances are they may respond with aggression. Do you not understand the meaning of effective control??? Have you read the Companion Animal Act recently with regard to dangerous dogs, it doesn't just cover actual attacks a lot of other behaviour can be classed as "dangerous". And this: Little dogs can easily learn not to be a victim and not to be a bully. How many times do people have to post stories of small dogs killed by shaking or over intense play by larger dogs. I'd be inclined to agree with Quickasyoucan here. Yes Doofus needs to be taught how to act around other dogs and take their warnings to back off BUT Doofus' owner should be aware of the fact that Doofus can be over the top and be watching him to call him back when he goes too far. At the same time those who don't like Doofus's in their face can be taught to tolerate Doofus to a certain point but that dog's owner needs to be careful too, as they are their dog's protector/leader and if their dog feels threatened/worried/uncomfortable about the way Doofus is acting then it's the owner who is responsible for stepping in and getting Doofus out of the way. I have one of these dogs and she's not a small dog either, she tolerates other dogs to a certain extent but if a dog gets in her face for too long she'll snap at it. She is in no way an agressive dog and her snapping is her way of telling the Doofus to back off as she's uncomfortable. It's her coping mechanism, if she gets to this point then it is *MY* responsibility as her pack leader to step in and make sure she feels safe and comfortable.
  10. If that was directed at me, I never said I don't take them off my property, read my post carefully - I said short walks to parks etc are good. I just don't do long boring walks with pups, I take them to parks, dog clubs, public places anywhere I can really but I just don't force them to walk for a set distance. I just preffer to let pups exercise themselves in safe places rather than a forced walk. As per Dr Billinghurst's recommendations in his books 'Give your dog a bone' and 'Grow your pups with bones', I belive Ian Dunbar says similar things about walks. It's easy to overdo walks with pups which can lead to injuries and damage to their still growing bodies which is why I don't recommend long walks until pups are fully grown.
  11. Or near the car so he has to go out to the car seeing as he doesn't have issues with being in the car itself. Or you can try lure him just a short distance with something really tasty and build that up gradually.
  12. Depending on the size of your block that should be ok but make it fun and go slow to let pup sniff and check things out. I don't usually take puppies for walks until they are virtually adults and on the rare occasion that I do take them for a walk it's very short to a park or somewhere safe to let them loose to have a bit of a play. I preffer to let pups play free rather than force them to take boring walks, this way they can stop when they are ready rather than risking overexerting them by taking them for a set walk. I'd be inclined to take your pup for a short walk to a park or drive to a nearby park and let it play loose or on a long lead. I'm lucky that I have a large park that my house backs onto so I just go out the back gate with my puppy (3.5 months old) and let him play on a long line. I just stand or sit or walk a very short distance (maybe 100-200 meters either direction of my house) and let him check everything out and sniff and play or whatever he wants to do. It's more about the mental stimulation than the physical. This is also a good time and way to teach a recall from early on as you've got the long line for security and provided pup knows how to come in the backyard it's the beginnings of teaching pup to come despite there being distractions around it!
  13. I do believe that k9force rents them out as well. ETA link: k9force collars
  14. I know someone who uses "GO!". I use a completely different language and always clear it with the judge before we start and so far haven't had any problems.
  15. I tend to focus more heavily on one thing at a time and get that to a level that I want and then focus more on something else. For example I currently show and obedience trial, last year I did 4 shows with my girl but did like 12 trials as I really wanted to get certain titles then. This year I'm only doing some basic obedience work and focussing more heavily on showing and training my new pup up. I won't start on agility until I have the time to actually commit to it and do it well, I can't see much point in having loads of things going on and none of them being done really all that well. Once a dog is at a level that I'm happy with then it's maintenance training from there which frees up to time work on something else.
  16. I don't control how my dogs play, if they are going to destroy something let them at it. I just give toys that are really really hard to destroy and let them try their very best to kill them!!! So far the kongs have survived, as has a large cuz and a large starmark treat ball... everything else however... dead!
  17. Ha ha! I know all about vocal puppies!! My little guy (now just over 4 months old) is very keen to tell me his opinions on anything! He was really bad when alll his siblings left and he was the only one here (I bred the litter) but now after a month he has calmed down a little but will still sit out in his pen and bark for quite sometime before he shuts up!
  18. I train the same way dogdude does and teach focus and position first before I put any actual forward motion into a heel. If the dog knows where heel is then it's not going to get confused when you tell it off for not being at heel! If you're working at club then maybe skip the fast pace for the time being and focus on slow and normal pace instead and build it up gradually until your dog can cope. Instructors shouldn't mind if you do something a little different during class as long as you're not disturbing anyone.
  19. Thanks Anita! I recieved three seperate emails today all of which informed me that there is no longer an restrictions on the importation of e-collars and which appologised for the wrong advice being given to me. This is the reply I recieved today:
  20. Just for reference, the response I posted was recieved from Customs on 16 Feb 2009 so quite recent. I'm not sure about new legislation changes however.
  21. Ok at home now, this is the response sent to me by customs copied and pasted direct from my email: So I guess if you have permission to import before you leave so you can show that when you come back it shouldn't be a problem should it?
  22. I do my titres yearly at the moment due to obedience etc as I get a certifcate from the vet to say the dog is immune, I also so the kennel cough vacc seperate for obedience and the odd trip to the kennels. My girl, who is 3, had 2 puppy vaccs then a booster at approx 12 months and then a titre at 2 and will be having her next titre today. My young pup will be getting his 2nd puppy vacc today and then I think I'll titre him at 15 mnths before vaccinating him again. If you do a search on here about titres you might find out about a vet that does them in house like mine in QLD does.
  23. I feed a veggie mix (whatevers on spec but it always has a root veg like swt potato or pumpkin and spinach in it, the rest varies) and the raw meaty bones. It's cheaper if you go to your local butcher and get beef/lamb/pork offcuts and things like chicken frames, I feed mostly meaty bones and maybe 2 days a week they get the veggies. I randomly add yoghurt, egg, sardines, offal etc to their diet depending on what I've got on hand or remember to buy!
  24. I enquired with australian customs about importing an ecollar from the usa and was told it would be a big no. I'll fish the email out at home and post their response, however I was not going to be bring it in with me I was going to have it shipped out.
  25. My crate was a little large for my current puppy so for the first couple of weeks I had a cardboard box in there as a block but I've removed it now and he's coping just fine in the crate. We've only had one pee in the crate on the 2nd night.
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