Seita

innotek radio fence.... run a wire around the yard in a loop (you can zip tie it to the fence), plug it in, put out the little flags and do a week or two of training (will depend on your dog) and bingo dog won't get out provided you follow the training instructions. I tried everything to keep my girl in and nothing worked. This is the only thing that has kept her in. It cost around $600 and it removeable and reusable - I've used it at 3 different properties now.

That pretty much describes what my dog is doing although she gets it a bit more often than your girl does by the sound of it. I only use the leash to walk to training and very very occasionally a bit of heeling on lead which is why I didn't think the leash would be the cause. I think the problem is that the leather has a stronger scent of it's own and it holds the scent a lot better to. So chances are that the leather articles will still smell like you even though you've aired them really well. I tend to really really scent my leather article at this stage to try and make it really strong smelling so it stands out and I think as she gets better and more experienced she will be able to pick out the hottest scent from the pile even though the rest may smell vaguely of me. That said I am still experimenting with the leash thing out of curiosity. I think the reason some people believe this theory is that having the leather scent on your hands (from the leash) may slighty mask or confuse your scent on the leather article which could cause problems. I might believe this if I used the leash alot in training but I don't use it much at all. But I'm still willing to give it a go and see if there is any affect.

I don't think it's the leash either but at the same time she knows which article it is as she tends to pick the right one up at lest once but then doubts herself and brings something else. She probably gets it right about 75% of the time and whenever she does get it wrong she does what I just described before and seems to doubt herself that she has got it right. I am still training this with her so am not too worried and she is improving. The reason for the thread was more to discuss whether the use of a leather leash would affect a dog when doing scent work. Some people at training have stopped using a leather lead for this reason but I am undecided about whether it is really something that confuses the dog or poor training on their behalf?

At training the other night we were discussing the idea that using a leather leash can cause confusion with some dogs for scent discrimination and or seek back with the leather articles. My girl struggles a little with the leather article in her scent work, she finds the wood and metal article really easily but tends to doubt herself on the leather and often brings me back a metal or wood article first. After this discussion I am wondering if this idea of a leather leash causing confusion could be correct? Just wanting thoughts and ideas about this from other triallers. Personally, I don't know about this, I think an experienced dog wouldn't have a problem with this but perhaps the leather leash might have an effect on an inexperience dog? My girl certainly is inexperienced at the moment considering we haven't even started trialling in UD yet! I am considering switching leashes for a while to test this theory out... several judges up here in QLD seem to think that this can and does affect dogs' scent work.

Just on the food thing... if he wanders off and leaves his food pick up and put it away. He gets one chance to eat it and if he doesn't or if he leaves it part way through he looses his chance to have it then. He will very quickly become more keen to eat and don't worry about him missing a meal or even a few he won't let himself starve. Have a look at the top of the training forum at K9Force's triangle of temptation as well - a really good feeding/training method to help correct pack structure.

Can't help you with an acutal butcher but try to find bulk meat places - they tend to be cheapest. I just found a bulk butcher near our farmers markets in Brissy and the prices are alot cheaper than other butchers.

Ohhh is it another one of Caroline's or from somewhere else? Oh and you might be best to post this in the show ring forum rather than here. I know they do training at Durack up here in Brissy but I'm not sure about G/C, I have suspicions there is a class there but am not 100% sure.

My girl was a terrible traveller at first, for the first couple of car trips she cried and cried and cried. I had her in the crate that she slept and was fed in and that seemed to help. I also did a couple of short round the block trips and some sessions of having her in the car and the car running but not moving and that seemed to help. After only a few weeks of doing this (only did it once or twice a week) she got used to the car and is now the best traveller I've ever had. She simply curls up and goes to sleep. Her son on the other hand loved the car from day dot, aside from the trip to the vets will all his siblings for their vaccinations he has never cried. Instead he chases cars through the window (window is closed) and tries to catch them!

I have been using U turn LAT for a long time and can remember many years ago up in north QLD where EVERYONE did around the back style turns and I got pinged by a local judge for doing the U turns. I can tell you now that I have NEVER been under that judge since!!! I always used to do around the back finishes but started doing flip finishes with my current girl because she likes doing them. I have taught her around the back finishes too and tend to mix it up a bit as her flip finishes can sometimes end up a little wonky so the round the back style usually ends up neater. Although at a recent trial I did all round the back finishes and for each and everyone she sat about 15cm from my leg instead of right beside it. Don't know where she got that idea from!!!

I've had a relatively experienced agility dog get confused over different types of tyres. She had always been trained on one with small frame around the tyre and the first time she encountered one that was hanging from a larger frame with chains/rope holding it up she refused it. She did the same thing with a lollipop style one when she first encountered that style too.

Another here who doesn't weigh - the dogs or the food. I go on how the dog feels and looks and adjust levels accordingly.

The thread doesn't actually mention any names. However badboyz did PM me so it might be the same place.

bump.

This is the reply I recieved from Australian Customs a few months ago when I was trying to find the answer to this question:

I am posting this here as I am looking for a kennels in Brisbane that accepts Titres. I have used a few kennels in the past before I did titres but none of them accept titre results so am on the hunt for a new kennel. Feel free to PM if you would preffer.

These are the details from the ccc. I can't guarantee how accurate they are though! Jimboomba Dog Training Club Mrs L Deoberitz 10 Furzer St Browns Plains 4118 (07) 3800 3002 [email protected] Logan All Breeds Dog Obedience Club Inc Mrs D Thomas PO Box 23 Kingston 4114 (07) 3208 6065 [email protected]

I believe there's a club in Jimboomba and there is a club in Logan which might not be too far away. I can't comment on the training of either as I've never been to either of these clubs.

Ness, I think Staranais answered your question very well and I am of the same mind. I don't care if my dog gives me a driven response to a command when I haven't asked her to be in drive as long as she complies. As for ensuring that she goes into drive when I tell her to, there is no compulsion rather she has been conditioned through loads of training to learn that if she doesn't go into drive when I ask then she ultimately ends up loosing out. The training program is quite detailed to get her to this point but I usually remove the reward when she failed to go into drive... bascially I go out ask her to go into drive, if she doesn't then I go back inside and ignore for maybe a day and then try again. She quickly learnt that if she doesn't go into drive when I ask then life gets pretty boring!!!

Thanks for the comments on my girl guys! AD - offtopic... who r u? LOL On the topic of triggering dogs into working mode. It really depends on the dog and style of training I think. For example in the past I've had one style of training with my dog all the time, there was no difference from general around the house training to the obedience ring training I expected the same level of work regardless. I didn't trigger this training with any form of cue word, maybe a bit of razzzing up to get started with before a trial but ultimately I exected the same work no matter where we were or what we were doing. But now I use two completely different training methods with the same dog and I need to distinguish those methods for the dog which is why I use a cue for the drive work. I don't want my dog permanently in drive, A) it's not possible and B)I don't always need that level of work. By cueing my drive work I am telling my girl that her drive reward is coming and that I expect a different level of work. The same girl responds accurately and well to a different set of commands when not in drive mode but I don't expect the same level of switched on-ness as my drive work. I use the drive work in high distraction or dangerous situations where I need/want 150% attention and compliance. But for every day around the house, out for a walk etc, work I use the other commands and I don't cue these I just expect her to do it but she also knows that she doesn't need to go into drive for this. She knows she can be more relaxed and perhaps a little less attentive when I am using these commands and she knows that she isn't going to get her drive reward at this time either. But she still knows that she has to comply and that she will be rewarded in some form. I don't need my dog to be in drive all the time but I want to be able to control when she is in drive so that I don't have a dog who has 'off' days. You know those people who trial and they have those brilliant brilliant days and then there are days where their dogs are flat or not really focussed. I'm not talking about blowing an exercise here I'm talking about the way the dog responds to the handler and how that varies. My old girl used to be like this, if she was really into it and focussed we would have absolutely ripper days, but if she was flat, didn't feel like it or I couldn't get her focussed she would be terrible. I want to control my dog's drive so that when I cue it I get it. I don't want semi-compliance, I don't want a dog that "might" switch on for me. I want a dog that when I ask her to go into drive she damn well does!!! That is why I cue her work, she has been conditioned to know that her super duper totally awesome reward will ALWAYS appear when I have told her to go into drive. And she has been taught that she must go into drive on that command. Without my cue I would have no way to tell my dog what I want, what is coming or be able to control when I want her in drive and when I don't. Sorry for the big post!

I work that same way. If I ask for something from my dogs I expect them to comply but when I have asked my dog to go into drive work then I expect a super keen, very attentive, trembling with anticipation sort of response. I don't specifically work with different collars I just use different commands to tell the what we are going to do. So when I am showing I use the command "showing" which they know means they don't have to heel but they can't pull on the lead and I expect them to gait. When I am working in drive I tell my girl (the pup is in training) "Are you ready to work?" and she knows that her drive reward will be presented soon. I use a release command as well to let them know that training is over. I agree with Starnais here, it is not possible to get the same level of focus and excitability all the time which is why drive work specifically has a command. Firstly it tells the dog what kind of reward it will get (my dogs have a special drive reward which is never used at other times) and it tells them what sort of work I am expecting. I have a completely different set of commands for this as well to really differentiate it from normal everyday basic obedience commands.

I have one dog that never barks, I have heard her bark on only a small number of occaisons and there is no way I could teach her to do this. But my pup likes to bark alot so he was really easy - taught him in one night to do it and he loves it! It really does depend on the individual dog.

I keep forgetting to put this on my entries!!! Tsk, tsk! Yeah my club tells me off every time too! I will try to remember when I next enter something

I keep forgetting to put this on my entries!!!

I have border collies and I don't leave collars on them unless we are out somewhere. They usually wear martingales or check chains for walking and check chains for showing. I find if you leave a collar on the dog all the time you get broken hair or the hair gets worn away abit in the area where the collar is.

Not to mention that you only need to do one glove unlike the SOC where you have to do a speak in all 3 positions! My dog speaks on command but I wouldn't risk it in a trial as he tends to move or gets excited and barks twice or doesn't bark properly (does more of a growl thing)... all too risky to do in a trial for me!