centitout

my search and rescue mentor/trainer said to me "nothing a dog does is ever it's fault-it is always the fault of the handler" and i 100% agree with that.when emma recovers from her op (luxating patellas,desexing etc) i am going to try to get to sydney for training with k9 force,for while i can help emma settle down a little,i would love her to be all she can be and i will seek professional help to do this.i just wish frank would-it might only take a couple of sessions to completely change everything.

I recommended sending the dog back to the breeder because it is apparent from what Frank wrote that he is nowhere as far as training this dog, and he is not interested in going to obedience, or getting help. One would hope the breeder might have a few more clues than Frank, and may be able to take appropriate steps to turn this dog into a decent canine citizen, either by retraining, or getting help, and rehoming it to an appropriate home - as breeders like me do quite often -- and not just with our own breed either. Do you think it is more appropriate for it to continue to live with Frank and continue as it is doing, or to be tied up 24/7, or to bite one of the children? Or do you think sending it to the pound is more appropriate? Or having it euthanased because Frank can't cope, or because it bites? Sending the dog back to the breeder in 75% of cases would be better than the options above!! Some breeders actually do more than sit on the lounge waiting for bitches to pop out pups they can sell. Some actually do, or have done, forms of dog sports. Some are actually obedience instructors. Some have actually dealt with problems like this - and worse - before - from other puppy buyers. And even if the breeder doesn't have a flying #### what is wrong with the dog, or how to fix it, he probably has contacts who do. Or potential owners who do. This is not a huge problem, from what I have read - it's just that Frank can't fix it. jed,agree a 100%.the pup that came back to me for "re training" came back because the qualified trainer they had listened to stuffed him!! what works for one type of dog does not always work for another,and that makes a good trainer when they realise this.i am a breeder that is extremely interested in dog behaviour,same as when i was involved in racehorses-3/4 of horses problems stem from inappropriate training.i will consult someone like k9 force for a complex problem,erny or tonymc etc,but this owner does not want to listen to advice which has been to consult a professional or re home to the breeder who can take steps to solve the problems.and i find the comment that breeders are responsible for a lot of dogs problems offensive,come and look at the pups i kept and the ones who left at 8 weeks and see the difference.it is because i spend hours studying my dogs,i know their habits,likes ,dislikes,personalities,their trainability and what motivates them.

there are some dogs who will not listen to sit etc.i bought a 15 mth 50 kg bloodhound that was such a bad jumper we had scratches 2 feet long,and deep.ignoring him didnt work,any movement excited him so in the end i did bring my knee up(not knee him though) and as he came down he hit it.i also said ah,ah which is my word for 'dont do that".it worked for him when nothing else did,but a timid puppy needs a different approach.i watched my bitch with her large litter when they got to the 8-12 weeks stage and were jumping on her,biting etc,she turned around and grabbed them on the muzzle while growling!!!never drew blood though.i have a pup that is an attention jumper-what i did was go in and out that door 100 times! one day and just walked past,no talking to them,no pats,just ignored them.at first he jumped around,followed etc,but after i kept going in and out,he got bored and only jumps occasionally.i also do not pat them evertime i see them,sometimes i dont speak to them either ,they only get attention when they are calm and all 4 on the floor.

i had the same thing with my dogs-all puppies should be on a premium dry food only until 2 years,according to the vet.i explained the diet my dogs were getting(raw with handful of biscuits) that was terrible apparently and my dogs were going to suffer dire consequences! i had to take them in one day for some basic problem,and they did nothing but marvel over coats,teeth and the condition which was described as exceptional! asked what i fed-RAW.they have been converted.

frank is no different to a lot of people-they want help that involves,no cost and no time and the dog comes out perfectly well trained.a man up here has the same problem with a miniture daccie. it absolutely hates one of his kids and will growl and try to bite every time it comes near him.he asked me what to do(i suggested o/training) but they dont have time,then i suggested that when they are sitting on the lounge(this is where most of it happens)and she does it-he is to pick her up straight away and put her in another room for a minute.it would only take a day or so-but he said ,I HAVENT GOT THE TIME TO DO THAT!!!.

purely positive with no correction for bad behaviour has stuffed more dogs than anything else.training needs to be tailored to suit individual dogs and any trainer that doesnt do this shouldnt be training.i have just had to re train a pup of mine because of the only positive approach from the owners was making him a out of control dog who would have got worse.i try positive first,sometimes you do have to correct them,but it should never be harsh.

desensitise her-take her a couple of times and just let her watch other dogs being bathed.or stand her in it without it being turned on a couple of times,praise and treats.everything should be gradual.

i changed over from processed diets(which killed the first bloodhound i had) 2 years ago and the dogs have never looked better.they get minimal dry food.they also think nothing of burying a piece of RAW liver!!! for several days until it is a nice shade of green and then eating it with appreciation.no diarhhea,anything.the lady whose dogs died all of a sudden from contaminated canned food would disagree with the above findings i would think.my vet changed her mind about processed foods being the only food you should feed after seeing the condition of my dogs on their more 'NATURAL RAW DIET"..

my sons 9 mth old chi humps the cat,and the 2 cats both go to town on the kids mink blanket if they can get access!!! the desexed cat also has 2 teddies he favours above the rest!!! my bitch would also hump the male AND sit on his face if he was a bit slow to pleasure her!!! the kids thought it was great though-but not the teachers when they told it for show and tell at school!!!

my bitch was desexed during her c-section(18 pups)her uterus was massive and they didnt have her hooked up to fluids.i too worked as a vet nurse and it is not standard practise for those tests unless the dog has a problem anyway and they need to check before a surgery.it is like the vets now saying a gastroplexy op for large chested breeds should be routine during desexing!!!

livamol(from produce store)like LSA but more concentrated .

my pups did this too after a cold snap-diagnosed as upper respiratory infection.turns out to be kennel cough.the only sign they had was mild coughing after excercise,morning and night.they also did the retch thing.none were off food,all bright and active.take her into the vets,they normally put them on antibiotics and mucolytics.recovery is 14-21 days.

mine have just had suspected kc after one of the big guys went to the vets for xrays.he was coughing 2 days later and then 1 by 1 they all went down,even the c5'd ones.it was only a very mild cough though,that is why the vets didnt put it down to kc to start with.but now other dogs from other people are starting.4 of my pups had skin reactions after their first vacc,so they will have to have anti histamines administered at the same time.

i have proceeded with the motion for pics!!!i actually have 12 puppie here at the moment,so hand feeding might be hard ,and they get minced carcasses/roo and soaked dry!!! i have seperated the trouble makers in to groups,1 i feed completely seperated.the 2 girls will happily eat out of the same bowl if i leave my hand in it!!! take the hand out and they will go at it.another question?-should people take puppies food away while eating,personally i would growl if someone kept taking mine away.one of my owners has been doing this with her pup to get him used to her kids taking food off him,but he has started growling now.i have advised her to hand feed him out of his bowl,instead of taking it away,is that a better way?

i have 4 puppies which are now 12 weeks old,which have become very aggro with the other pups at feeding.everyone has seperate bowls(12!!)is there a way i can teach them not to be dominant with food apart from seperating-i did take the 4 trouble makers away and fed seperately,but then they had massive fights with each other.i supervise while feeding and have used water as a punishment when a fight broke out.any suggestions would be appreciated.btw,the big dogs are good,i started using the triangle of temptation last year etc and have found it fantastic.

i agree with tapferhund-all of my pups get taken out from 8 weeks,i just dont take them to dog parks or let them play with dogs i dont know.bloodhounds can be wary if not socialised at an early age.i would be more worried taking them to a vet surgery than them picking something up from the street.if the mother was adequately immunised the pups should have some resistance to infection.

i am having the same problem with the 2 bloodhound girls,the previously more dominant 1 is now getting shafted from sleeping areas and the other girl is pushing ahead when i go to feed bronte.i think sometimes you have to let them work it out-=who you think should be top dog is not always who it should be in the dogs eyes.

i am going to farm some along with bantam chooks-someone else will have to send them on there way though!!!

i was walking 4 bloodhounds at a time,but 2 were pullers,so i did individual training until each was no longer pulling.it is simple,when they pull,you stop.it might take 1/2 hr to walk 50 mts but they soon realise that if they rush ,they go nowhere.i did use head halters on the 2 girls while training,but it is not a quick fix-they are meant to be used along with training.

my 26 gorgeous pups were vacc and m/c last monday and i noticed yesterday that 6 of them have a crusty rash around the throat area,it wasnt there 3 days ago.has anyone else experienced something similar?

i have had a bloodhound (not mine,i bought him later) that was knocking up girls at 9 mths,my girls have all come into season at 7-8 mths and i have a 7 mth old male that is starting to show serious signs of sexual dominance.my desexing rebate applies for males done no later than 7 mths and girls 8 mths.my vets both agree that incontinence is a risk arter desexing at any age,but like pups to be at least 6 mths,although the rescues from the pound they will do from 12 weeks if a smaller dog.

mine also get trotters and hocks ,and are soon to be getting wild roo,complete with hair!!!

thanks dogdayz-i have the general idea i think!! and am going to start tomorrow.i have the 7 th old and a 2 yr old but i think he will get to distracted by other things.i also am keeping a couple of pups from this litter as well.

thanks kavik,it is a great read!!! i've done the show thing and to be honest,while i love showing a rare breed off-it doesnt have anything challenging about it.i will be in bloodhounds for ever,so i want to see them doing what they do,and i need to lose some weight!!!!!

hi everyone, i want to move into tracking rather than showing and have a 7 mth old bloodhound.how do you start them off ie games ,basics.i am also 6 hrs from sydney,so joining a club is out of the question.any advice is appreciated.