centitout

The 5mg/ml comes in a 20ml bottle, but I'm 99% sure the 20mg/ml comes in a 50ml bottle. the vets where i work are roughly half large animal,half small animal and we only stock the 20 ml(i was guestimating the size!!) for small animals,i have never seen the cattle stuff in here,they must use a different product.

i am a vet nurse and there is injectable metacam,as well as a suspension.it is contra-indicated for animals with liver,kidney probs.like any medication ,there will always be animals that do have a reaction to a particular drug,sometimes they have underlying health issues which contribute to a reaction.there is no way a dog would be given 50 ml of metacam,they come in 25 ml bottles and it is expensive.

bono will trail for a chicken carcass-its his idea of heaven and for a tummy rub .the other girl will do it more for the thrill of it and some frankfurt,same as k.c,the other girl.

i have had owners who were told to take their pups food away,give it back etc and they became food aggressive.dogs do not need to be stood over,near,patted,food played with etc-and no child should ever be left with a dog that is eating,EVER!!!by all means teach them to sit and wait until they are released to eat,but otherwise,feed them in a secure area with no interference.and yes,i have dogs that are very possessive with food,but i can if necessary take it off them,i have had to take a half eaten possum from one,but i gave him something tastier in return.

at the vets i work at we use staright bleach,and i use that at home on concrete paved areas,grass areas where they normally go i use 50%bleach.

btw-doing "zoomies"and running around like crazy in the back yard due to lack of excercise can and does do more damage to joints-esp cruciate ligaments,ask all the owners that have come in to the vets to have to have it repaired and all their dog was doing was "running "around the back yard.

leaving pups until 16 weeks to start socialising or taking them places leads to fear problems-8-12 weeks is their most impressionable stage.i walk(teach to lead) all my pups at 8 weeks and they go on short 5-10 min 'social"walks in areas where there isnt a lot of dog traffic to minimise parvo risk.considering your dog can get parvo without leaving the yard,i found it strange that people wont take them anywhere until 16+weeks.they dont do any major walking until after 6-7 mths(build up to 30 mins normal pace) and after that they are increased slowly-just like conditioning a race horse.

my vets prescribe arrest easy dose !! an application on top of the head lasts for 3-4 weeks.

i have done 2 breeder contracts(verbal) with people that have turned out to be excellent.they got a bitch for nothing,i share the first litter with them and then the bitch is signed over to them(they know that if they dont pass any tests they are not to be bred=desexed)1 is being shown next year.it can be as simple or as complicated as you like but i wont be doing any more breeders contracts.i am just extremely picky as to who i sell a dog to,but even more so a bitch.i have heard of some breeders that have contracts(the new owner still has to pay for dog etc) that states if that dog can be shown,if it can be bred,what sires are allowed to be used and they take 1/2 of every litter.get real.i would never buy a dog with those conditions.

bloodhound males can be quite dominant too as pups-i do not tolerate it at all!!!i start as pups by standing with them between my legs as they feed,if they growl etc they get removed to a time out room or out of the feeding yard.younger puppies if they mouth,nip etc i do the agh,agh noise in a growl,grab their muzzle shut and roll the top lip under a tooth and squeeze until they yelp.they have never done it again and i dont like doing it but they will grow to be big dogs and i am sorry,but we come before them and they will learn manners!i will also stomp towards them for fighting other pups ,etc and invade their personal space and MAKE them get out of my way while using the command move.i have seen some bad results with bloodhounds that have had a lot of reward based training and no correction,sometimes ignoring them does not work and they have to learn action=consequence.try the time out room-he has to be away from everyone i think for it to be effective-it worked with the chi that wouldnt let other dogs near us in the house.took 8 timeouts and fixed!!

hi erny, his stools are fine and he is regularly wormed.as an example-at work for 1/2 day yesterday,so he was out with the chi all that time.when i came home,i waited out the front until he had a wee,praised him lavishly and then let him in.20 mins later while i was getting lunch,i came into the loungeroom and he had crapped on the floor.didnt make a fuss,just took him out the front again.10 mins later i went out and played with him,did some basic obedience.let him in again last night after he did a wee outside,i was sitting on the lounge patting him when he got up and squatted before i could get up.outside again. his litter brother is exactly the same to the extent that the owners leave him outside totally now.i have a side yard that he can access,as well as an open front door,but he will not go out unless put out.getting really frustrated!!!as i said before-tethering him to me is impractical to say the least,4 kids,9 bloodhounds and work means that when i am home i am always moving.

as far as i know he was raised in a shed-so maybe he thinks the house is like the shed?i have restricted access to other rooms except for lounge and kitchen wich are open.just have to keep eyes in the back of my head!!!

gee ,thanks dogmad!! i have taken to letting him in for 15 mins at a time,and then out again,i'm also only feeding him morning and at lunchtime(that has reduced it a little).he is only 5 ths ,so maybe as he gets older it will get better?he suffered from seperation anxiety to start with,so i have gradually gotten him used to being outside and now he is fine with it,he can come inside when i'm there and able to keep an eye on him,outside when i am at work.

he is an adorable boy,i love their intelligence,but not so keen on the "lack of personal hygiene" thing!!!.i got one because i had heard that they are very clean dogs ,unlike bloodhounds which can be very difficult to toilet train!!!

dogmad,have been doing that!he isnt going to be desexed yet as i want to show him-it isnt so much the weeing as the pooing on lounges,rugs and once ,a kid!! he was out all day today,comes inside tonight and crapped on the rug.i cant tether him to me,as 4 kids and 9 bloodhounds+work mean i am in and out constantly.

i have a keeshond pup who is 5 mths old and he is impossible to toilet train.i wanted to have him as an inside dog but now he has started going doing his business on the lounges,clothes(one of the kids who was lying on the lounge)yuk!!he was taken right from the start outside every 1/2 hr,before,after meals/playing etc and was doing ok-he got heaps of praise when he went outside etc,all the normal things.the last couple of weeks he is getting worse ,i would take him outside,wait till he'd gone and bring him back in and then he would go and find somewhere and do it again!the crapping on lounges thing though and anything lying around is not acceptable and i have had to leave him outside now permanently.he was out yesterday all day so i let him in for a while-he was in for 5 mins and went and crapped on the floor-he doesnt do 1-he leaves a trail of small bits 3 foot long!! another lady who has his litter brother said hers was doing the same thing so he is outside now as well.i got him when he was 8 weeks,he is a fantastic pup apart from the toilet training,he is exceptionally intelligent,he sits,drops,crawls and rolls over,shakes hands etc,so why does he do this?it has got me stumped,any ideas?

i turned down several buyers for my pups because of very young children,one had 1 yr old twins!! it would of been ok for him but his wife would of been the one looking after the pup and i know what its like to have young children and young animals together.personally i wouldnt have sold you a pup at this stage and i would refund any money as well.i think you are doing the right thing by returning him to the breeder-give it a couple of years and maybe buy an older dog to start with.

i have heard he trained SAR dogs and bloodhounds years ago and is very good with dominant dogs-the type that all the other training methods have not worked on.i would have no problem using him,alot of dogs need different methods of training and that is where a lot of people come unstuck-because they have a dominant ,high drive dog and they only use positive re inforcement etc,sometimes they do need to be corrected and some people perceive this to be cruel.

with topical applications only ,my vet has seen some that "migrate".the chi i bought for my son developed localised demodectic mange at 4 mths after he was vacc.3 mths on oral ivomec,no improvement,we were looking at 8 mths on it-then we did his last week of oral and used advocate and it cleared up.chis cant have a lot of the products for mange and it was starting to become generalised.

i have worked in a vet clinic and had dogs on mainly raw diet for 3 years now and they have never looked better.they get minimal 'cheap" dry food,majority is raw ground chicken carcasses,wings,frames,roo,pigs trotters,raw and cooked vegies.the cases in the vet clinic with HGE were on processed foods.when my dogs were on processed foods before,i had lots of runny poo and stomach ulcers-magically cleared up after putting them on the current diet!!

the same reason all my boys will be done-to stop dickheads getting their hands on them.

This is not the only skeletal change created by stopping hormones before growth is almost complete, as chest and head development is affected too, depending on breed. In my breed, even desexing at 6 mths has created taller, narrow chested dogs with insufficient lung room - resulting in problems separate to increased cruciate ligament ruptures. couldnt this be due to the breeding itself and the particular dogs.in my breed there is 2 very different types-the big,solid,heavy boned type and a smaller,narrower head,deeper keel type dog that moves nicer but is still alot ligher than the breed standard.i used a lighter stud over my very heavy bitch and 1/2 the pups have the sires build,1/2 have the dams.no amount of testosterone,oestrogen is going to make their heads /chests look like the other 1/2 of the litter.i am just about to start back at my vets part time,so i will look into the possibility of leaving an ovary in if desexed etc,but for the males i still want full desexing as most new owners simply cant deal with a horny young bloodhound.

Most serial "humpers" are dogs that were desexed as puppies, that were not given the chance to outgrow the normal puppy phase of humping. I have NEVER had an adult intact male do this, but I have seen hundreds of desexed males that do. The large breeds I was talking about here do not develop until after 12 or 18 months, so there is no way they would be producing puppies at 6 mths! Who was talking about proper size? I was talking about abnormal development of genitalia. However, there are serious ramifications with cancer etc, that people never attribute ot early desexing, because they all believe current opinion which says that desexing prevents cancer. It only prevents cancer in the bits that are removed, and mammary cancer - every other cancer is increased. the undesexed chi i have is a serial humper-11 mths old.the undesexed female bloodhounds hump everything in sight when in season-it becomes pornographic at times and i have a 10 mth old male that could produce pups now.i have had bloodhounds come into season at 6 mths-9 mths is normal and the sire of the litter mated a poodle at 9 mths ( no i didnt own him then-he was returned to breeder for serial "mating"offences.

Danes can have up to 10 or more in a litter..... imagine 12 x 20kg 16wk old Dane babies. As gorgeous as that image is....... now Imagine a breeder trying to feed, socialise, train and mange WELL that many juvenile giant pups until 16wks of age . It wouldn't be good for the pups OR the breeder on several levels! Holding til 10wks is a fine idea though for desexing. i had 12 ,14 week bloodhounds here as people would not buy them with a desexing rebate-they wanted them entire as pets so they could breed later on.my credit card is fully booked out again due to the costs of having this litter,but nothing will go unless they are going to be desexed.even feeding time becomes world war 3-and lead training 12 pups,socialising,vets etc-i still have not recovered!!.

sorry-but none of the owners of my pups wanted them sterilised-it means 2 major ops and they still have the hassle of seasons.i have a desexing rebate on mine if done no later than 6 mths,i saw my first neo mastiff cross bloodhounds the other week ,3 going to the same person.i will desex mine at 12 weeks next time,if they have a small penis,so what?will the other dogs make fun of them at the pissing tree? my bitch used to suffer from vaginitis a lot and she was undesexed.i had her desexed at 4 -and she still gets infections.this akita could well have been a bitch that was going to have problems anyway,it does happen.