centitout

been trying to tell people this for the last 5 years,unfortunately most listen to other well meaning people of other breeds and feed bloodhounds too high a protein diet (my guys get dry food with 18 % protein,chicken mince,yogurt/vegies etc)-the result-knuckling over,cow hocks,east/west front legs,down in the pasterns,OCD. put them on the lower protein diet and they notice the difference within 6 weeks. none of my pups whose owners have followed this have had any of the above problems. also a big no no ,is supplementation with calcium,i dont know how many people tell me to whack high doses into them-that can cause the problems it is supposed to stop in large breeds.

I agree with settrlover and miranda-i have seen too many pups made food aggressive this way.The triangle of temptation is good,i used it with my dogs and i have been able to take a half eaten possum from one of mine-but he sure as hell got a huge reward for giving it up. I think the key is to make the reward better than what was originally taken.But i still maintain that dogs should NOT be annoyed,patted or played with when eating- the best way to think,is if you miss lunch and dinner,and are starving hungry,you finally get your meal,just about to dig in,and someone comes and takes it away.Would you start to get crappy when that goes on for days ?

thanks Nadie !! I think pagan will be very good,some just take longer than others,personally i prefer them to be trained slower and more thoroughly,than trying to stuff every conceivable scenario into them as pups-they will eventually go sour.I have spoken to a few people now ,and the general consensus is 18 mths to fully train a man trailing dog to search status. i will not start a pup before 7 mths,they need that time physically to grow and also the 5 mths can be used to extensively socialise them first. i too wish they had a trailing club,footstep tracking is an entirely different sport with different training methods. if we keep at it though,eventually the bloodhound will be recognised for what it can do,might take a long time,but i think if it is done in the right way,it will happen.

Hi Tickle Tickle, if you want any info on trailing,i am more than happy to have a chat !! I have 2 bloodhounds in training,the main one is doing 6 day old cold trails,both urban and bush. If you are in nsw,you pretty much have buckleys about getting used on a real search at the moment,i am hoping to change that though !! Just send me a pm and i will give you my number. good luck and happy trailing

will not feed high protein kibble to my pups,as they get raw chicken mince,i feed a lower protein kibble like bonnies,and from 12 weeks start changing them over to adult,as the protein level is lower still.not one of the pups i had here for a while had leg problems,but 3 of the ones who left at 8 weeks and where fed the premium high protein kibble,went down in the pasterns,turned out etc.after going back to a low protein kibble,all became ok within 6 weeks.have also seen large breed pups with things like OCD as a result of getting to heavy to quickly. so no,i definately will not feed a high protein kibble.

i think the offer of a new pup is reasonable-if i have it right from the info settrlover provided-there is no genetic test for this problem ? but as a gesture of goodwill ,if they wished to keep the other pup,i would still provide them with a replacement,or the purchase price of the pup when they have the next litter.sometimes new owners dont realise that breeders just dont always have money available for problems like that that are totally unexpected.

hi bob-was it a removal of a mammary tumour ? if so,some of them can be extremely hard to remove and time consuming if they have invaded down into the tissues,i have done the anaesthetic on several and nearly all have had complicated removals-hence the price. still $800 seems a little excessive-my vet would probably be around the $500-600 mark.

my vets are using it now ,still prefer to surgically do them though.it is good for blokes that NEED to have balls on their dogs to mainatain (the blokes! )manly image as at least the dog cant reproduce at least for a while.if it stops more males roaming around pro creating-i dont care how they do it,surgical or chemical.

my little girl ,leila,was the smallest pup in the litter of 15.she was very tiny,but has turned out to be the most robust of the lot !she is the same size as all the other girls but with the most amazing temp.

same as warley ,large breeds are a lot more difficult though as there blood vessels are as thick as my finger.no different to doing a c-section.

you CANT be serious? Can you? I feel so innocent right now i help ai dogs for my vet,have done horses and normally assist with first matings as well i was also the mating manager on an intensive piggery where EVERYTHING was hand mated i was very good-i got the litter rate up from 6 to 15 per sow,so i must have good hands i know a few show people that have cranky males,and they routinely do this,if my male is cranky-well he can stay cranky!

hi jesomil-the only thing that might possibly hold his attention over a in season bitch would be a possum,dead or alive.but i think it might raise a few eyebrows in the ring,and the ire of the national parks and wildlife,greenies that are there too they also dont fit in my pockets very well-i may have to go the cargo pants look!!

and this is exactly the reason i will not train my male out of being interested-seen too many dogs and horses terrified of going near a bitch when the time comes.and the ones with low sex drive-how great is it having to give them a hand job to get them excited enough had to do that before many a time(maybe its why i dont have a boyfriend anymore ;) )

That's good, isn't it? An animal with low libido is very bad for a breed's future. Bitches in season shouldn't be allowed to compete in any activity. It's risky to their health, they're probably feeling off-color and not do themselves justice and it's offputting to other dogs, so it's very unsporting. Bitches in season should stay at home. No competition is that important! there has been repeated arguments on this subject before-i have been told people with males should train them better-how does that explain obedience trained dogs ,they have the highest levels of training,but a bitch in season cannot compete.why-because even these extremely well trained dogs will have the blood leave their brain to be re directed to other parts but a show dog is expected to just not worry about it.

thanks,i have repeatedly asked this question on the now closed topics,as apparantly i just cant be bothered training an extremely high sex drive STUD dog to ignore day 14 + bitches which have peed all over the ring or are stacked next to us,from acting up .one suggestion was to not use him as a stud dog,as high sex drive is hereditary-he is my foundation stud and this breed is renowned for no sex drive or wont serve or infertility!!! i know how they train racehorse colts to ignore in season fillies and it is barbaric to say the least-maybe thats why no one has been able to tell me how.why are bitches in season not allowed to compete in agility?

how do other people train their male dogs (entire) to ignore in season females.so far no one has been able to tell me how they do it

why is everything these days hereditary? i think people should look more at environmental factors,feed,vaccinations than constantly looking for an excuse to "blame it on genetics".i had a sharpei bitch years ago(unrelated lines) that had demodex,the kids had a chi that developed demodex at 4 mths unrelated as well.compromised immune systems are now hereditary-what next?

Hi, That's interesting to hear. The rehab schedule I got from my surgeon is as follows (written handout from surgeon) - Immediately following surgery, two weeks' house rest with only on lead toilet walks 3-4/day. Bandages removed at 7 days and a 4 week course of Pentosan commenced at the same time. Week three - commence SLOW lead held walks - 10 mins per day. Increase by 5 minutes/week for next 6 weeks so that by week 8, we should be doing 35 minutes SLOW lead walking a day. By week 7 'Resume Normal Activity' - by that I gather she could go back out to her pen, have quiet time off lead on her own in the yard etc. I have been following this rehab regime to the letter. Bear in mind that the surgical procedure was the most minimally invasive arthrotomy where the surgeon goes in, gets the fragments out and then he's out of there. Also, since there was no evidence of arthritic change on her x-rays and she only had kissing lesions ie. no OCD, persumably that also has some bearing? There was no mention of follow-up x-rays or a visit. From everything the surgeon said, he has now done all that's possible. The rest is up to the individual dog and a careful rehab routine...not sure what else I can do but certainly swimming has been recommended by my regular vet so I plan to start off slowly with that tonight. w2s one of my owners pups developed trauma related u.a.p and i have had him for the op and post op recovery.that is the same schedule i got as well,he has a bit of fluid swelling(minor) around the op sight and it is 3 weeks post op now.he was confined to a small shed for the first 2 weeks with toilet breaks and has been out this last week,but as yet no on lead walking.we got told he will excercise the joint himself as it recovers and he is learning to use the leg more normally now.

i have 10 dogs at the moment,mixed ages,sexes and breed-some do have to be fed seperately or i would be in the vets 24 hrs a day.why shouldnt you feed a dog seperately?.i have groups that can be fed together,others cant.

i would love some info too-i have bloodhounds that are for trailing cold trails,but would like to branch out into other areas as well.i have a beagle that we would like to train for rubble search,and a keeshond for water maybe.

my pups caught it at 11 weeks-a week before they were to be vacc.my big boy had gone in for hip/elbow scoring and i had him done with c5,4 days later all the pups had it-15 of them 1 ended up with pnuemonia but responded well to antibiotics.in josh's case maybe there is more going on,he sounds like he had a rough trot.hope he gets better soon.

my dogs are fed bonnies adult complete from 12 weeks as the 'premium large breed"dry foods cause their feet to "collapse" as the protein levels are way to high.but i also feed raw minced frames,liver,roo(small amounts) .vegies ,yogurt etc.bonnies puppy is fed until 12 weeks.it is not cost at all,i prefer to feed minimal dry food of any type and my dogs look fantastic and are healthy.

too high a protein diet esp in dry food can cause probs in the feet-i know!!! i feed an adult dry(small amount though) from 12 weeks and the pups have all had great feet and legs,some of the other ones though fed a "premium" brand large puppy food and they collapsed in the feet.put on a lower protein one though and 6 weeks later knuckle back up(btw they left at 8 weeks).a orange juiced and added to the feed is a great way to provide vit c-oranges have heaps of trace elements and minerals etc as well- steve mentioned it in a thread and i found it to be great.

The way I overcame this problem with my pups was to approach them with an ever better, fresher bone as a trade up....an item of higher value than they already have. If your dog sees a pigs ear as higher value than the bone then offer that and vice versa. I use the command 'out' and offer the new item as a reward for giving up the one they have and praise highly for obeying the command. I still never take anything from a dog without trading up. Though now that they are adults they will 'out' whatever they have in their mouths. I still reward them for obeying the command. i do the same as cavnrott,although i really wish people would realise that there should be no need to take a dogs food away.on bone days i seperate all my dogs,they are given their bones and left to enjoy them in peace.

leema ,i do the same.i will feed them nothing every now and again for a day,some days,particularly hot days,i may feed once instaed of twice,bloodhounds are more prone to bloat on hot days.