EddyAnne

G'day, Eddy here. There was a person who worked 40 hours away from home and were thinking of obtaining a Marama puppy. They thought long and hard especially after hearing some problems that some dogs had when owners worked. Doggie daycare was an option but far too expensive, then they came up with an idea. They went up the road to have some chats with some sheep farmers, they seemed not interested in what was proposed but one was, and after a long chat a deal was struck. The person then went ahead and obtained their puppy. Later they went to the farmer and followed the farmer where he went to give his sheep some feed. The person with their puppy just sat down and watched the sheep as they grazed, the person even had a book to read, some drink and some yummies this even for the puppy, then at the end of the day they went home. This repeated a couple off times where later whilst the puppy was walking around with the sheep the person would go away for short periods, and the puppy just stayed with the sheep and followed them. Later the person in the morning just dropped off the pup and the pup stayed with the sheep till the person came back to pick the puppy up at the end of the day. During this time the farmer whilst checking on his sheep would also check the pup who was growing fast. Well everyone was happy with the deal even the farmer who received a bonus now and then of a slab of beer plus his sheep were happy and content and well protected, and that person had a happy and content doggie to have at home whenever that person was at home, and when not at home well there was no dog at home to bark, dig holes, jump fences, etc.

G'day, Eddy here. There was a doggie that lived near a school and when the children walked to and from school the doggie looked out the front window or front screen door and barked persistently at all the children. Rather than debark or use some sort of collar as neighbours suggested the owner decided on an alternative suggestion, that during these barking times they would shut the front door and use Christmas Santa Snow Spray to cover up the lower part of the large front window, also during this time they had a cuddle on the lounge and listened to some music, and also had half of their meal in the morning and the other half in the afternoon. The persistent barking problem immediately disappeared where the neighbours were happy and so was the Council Ranger. Much later when the doggie heard the first children starting to go to and from school the doggie would run up to the lounge and wait for the cuddles and also look forward to their meal.

G'day, Eddy here. Out here in the country our local Training Club at the time just had Obedience and nobody that trialed in Tracking, and at the local GSD Branch a few there did do Tracking but they didn't want to know us as we didn't have GSDs. Well my wife and I decided to start Tracking training and all we had was the ANKC Tracking Rule book, and here is what my wife wrote about how we started:- Eddy came up with the bright idea lets try TRACKING. "Eddy you must be joking Charmaine Track, she hates the cold and wet, and tracking is done over the winter." However with a bit of encouragement we started to train, there was to be a Preliminary Tracking Trial locally in 4 weeks and all confident Eddy said we should aim for that. Well Nelson quickly got the idea but Charmaine was going very slowly. It was obvious to us that what we were doing wasn't working for Charmaine. We tried a new line of training for Charmaine. We headed to a local oval that was surrounded by trees, while Eddy held Charmaine behind a club building, I disappeared across the oval and concealed myself behind a big tree. Once I was in position Eddy brought Charmaine out and she immediately started to look for me, Eddy just stood there Charmaine began to whimper and finally put her nose down. She couldn't see me but realized "Hey I can smell mum went this way". Before long here was Charmaine licking my face and yipping at the top of her voice. This yipping was to become Charmaine's tracking trademark. Charmaine never looked back from this point, but I had missed the close of entry for the Prelim Test. Nelson would go and be successful but Charmaine would have to wait a month for the next trial of the season, 4.5 hours away. During that month it became obvious that although Charmaine loved obedience work her true calling was tracking. Charmaine hated the wet and is known for her excellent bladder control on wet days, also for her ability to walk around anything that appeared to be even slightly wet. In obedience to get Charmaine to drop or even sit on damp ground was an impossibility. But when she had her tracking harness on, neither rain nor sleet nor swamp would deter her from her track and articles. Articles were there to be not dropped on, but slam-dunked, then you yodel and tell the world what you have found, then run back to mum, and jump on her just to make sure she is as muddy as you. Our first Tracking trial arrived. I was expecting paddocks but when we got there all I could see was trees. I was in absolute panic. I had never practiced with trees. We camped overnight in the shed that is on the grounds, everyone tried to reassure me that everything would be OK, even going to the extent of telling me some tracks were in paddocks. The next morning arrived very quickly and we all went through the checking in procedure and lead measuring routine, then waited. All too quickly Eddy was called to lay my track and as he disappeared into the bush all hopes for a paddock track disappeared. The judge and steward returned and told me to get Charmaine ready, we then all headed off into the bush. My stomach was in my mouth, my legs like jelly as the judge said, "There is your start" as she pointed to this flag amidst the trees "when your ready you may start." I thought dam Eddy and tracking. I headed to the start post and Charmaine was tracking before we started. When she smelt the sock she bolted off like a greyhound out of its box. Full length of the lead I followed around trees through prickle bushes, at one stage Charmaine did a beautiful Fig 8 around a few trees I desperately tried to untangle the mess as Charmaine pulled and pulled. Off again my hands were full of prickles and I desperately tried to hold onto the lead. Finally Charmaine was jumping all over Eddy as the judge and steward approached with deep furrows on there forehead. "What the! #$%^&&^%$#~!@ do you think you were doing. Fantastic dog but your handling #%(*&$#&&$#*&". Charmaine passed and I limped away to lick my wounded dignity. I was later heard mumbling "no one told me that I could shorten the lead." I made a vow I would learn to track in the bush and how to handle the lead even if it killed me. Bush here we come. Eddy and I returned home Charmaine with her Prelim Pass, and well Nelson had followed some Kangaroo's so the pair was even yet again. We practiced and practiced in the bush and both dogs did very well through the season and when it came to the final track for the year both had their Tracking Dog Titles and were up to Test 3's. Now this final track of the season was to be held at the same location as Charmaine's Prelim, however now I was in a much better state of mind I knew how to handle those damn trees. Once again Charmaine took of like a rocket but I was in much more control as I let the lead out to an appropriate length and followed Charmaine keeping an even tension on the lead. We proceed along the track managing to avoid tangles; at about the half waypoint I overheard the steward and judge talking. Judge "well who do you think is the better handler" Steward " Just wait and see how she gets herself out of this." Just as this conversation was taking place Charmaine had decided to double back around a bush, she was looking for the turn. I quite calmly dropped the lead and picked it up again on the other side of the bush and Charmaine continued on the track without any break in concentration or pulling of the lead. The steward then replied, "I will have to give it to Anne." My bruised and battered ego from that Prelim had just been fully restored, Charmaine was awarded a Very Good for that track and I had been given back my Ego. Nelson was also successful that day and we would return to the same place next year to finish our Titles.

G'day, Eddy here. Well I chose to do some additional training so that when the doggies hear someone coming to the door they go to their designated spots and sit there quietly then I open the door. A few minutes later after I have sat down I call the doggies to me so that they can join me in some pizza. I feel a better alternative than others like desexing and debarking.

G'day, Eddy here. Out of curiosity I had a look at that chaps Council website to see what the Ranger might have said according to their Council's Policy, and just maybe the Ranger might have even given that chap a pamphlet or maybe it's been in the local community news, anyway below I noticed "citronella spray collars which are available from Council" plus some other dog management advise, and these I feel might be mentioned in the court case. Meanwhile that chap appears to be the meat in the sandwich and after the court case we might hear more of what happened, and the below from this address:- http://www.tweed.nsw.gov.au/linkweb/previo...tm?issue168.htm A TWEED SHIRE COUNCIL PUBLICATION ISSUE 168 APRIL 11, 2000 ISSN 1327 - 8630 When the bark is worse than the bite HAVE you got a dog that’s driving the neighbours insane? Nuisance barking is a major problem but there are many options open to dog owners to banish the bark. There is a large difference between a good watch dog and a dog that barks at anything. Here are some tips to control your dog’s bark: 1. A young pup that barks at people or noises is a good indication that you have a budding nuisance barker developing. 2. A barking young pup is a sign the pup is nervous. A well adjusted pup will not usually start barking for between eight to 12 months of age. 3. If you have a pup that barks at everything that moves, discipline it by growling the word ‘Bad’ at the precise moment it starts. Praise it as soon as it responds. 4. Clapping hands or throwing an object near the pup such as a can of pebbles and at the same time reprimanding the dog should help stop premature barking. 5. Puppies that refuse to stop barking may need further socialising and should be enrolled in a puppy pre-school. In more than 80 per cent of cases dog barking can be controlled by citronella spray collars which are available from Council. Other dog management tips include: * De-sex your dog at an early age. * Register your dog with Council as soon as it becomes eligible. * Never console a frightened, aggressive or barking dog. Reprimand for undesirable behaviour and praise for good behaviour. * Do not allow your dog to bark at things that are not a threat to your security. * Be a responsible dog owner and remember a good watch dog makes for a happy neighbourhood. * Seek professional help if your dog is difficult to handle. Do not feel you have failed. * Always walk your dog on a lead and pick up all droppings. * Wherever possible confine your dog at night to reduce annoyance to neighbours. By the way quite a number of VICTORIAN Local Councils have Citronella Spray Collars that they rent out to those wanting them, but then some people don't like to try them as they have heard others say the spray might cause things like medical eye problems, has anyone any medical proven cases that it really does. It's difficult to follow what applies in each state, so I prefer to keep an eye on my state VIC and here is what applies to electronic dog training collar that can impart an electric shock on a dog, and from other regulations you'd still have to be carefull in their use, anyway the below from this address:- http://www.austlii.edu.au/au/legis/vic/con...997469/s7e.html Victorian Consolidated Regulations PREVENTION OF CRUELTY TO ANIMALS REGULATIONS 1997 - SECT 7E 7E. Use of certain electronic collars prohibited (1) A person must not use an electronic dog training collar that can impart an electric shock on a dog or any other animal except in the circumstances in sub-regulation (2). Penalty: 5 penalty units. (2) Sub-regulation (1) does not apply to a person who uses an electronic dog training collar on a dog- (a) if a veterinary practitioner has examined the physical health and temperament of the dog and reasonably believes that the dog is suitable to have an electronic dog training collar used on it; and (b) the person is- (i) a veterinary practitioner; or (ii) acting on the instructions of a veterinary practitioner; or (iii) a qualified dog trainer (within the meaning of regulation 13(2) of the Domestic (Feral and Nuisance) Animals Regulations 19961); or (iv) acting under the supervision of a qualified dog trainer (within the meaning of regulation 13(2) of the Domestic (Feral and Nuisance) Animals Regulations 1996). As to what is a qualified dog trainer to the above read what's at this address:- http://www.austlii.edu.au/au/legis/vic/con...996403/s13.html

G'day, Eddy here. Sounds like maybe the present environment may not be suitable for that particular dog, so maybe consider changing the environment. Plus I feel that some others could provide some info on things to provide environmental stimulation from various activities that the dog could do inside the yard. Some dog owners do live in rented premises where their dogs are allowed inside, there the dogs can be with their owners sharing a close life together. If the owner of the rented premises won't allow dogs inside the house, maybe consider finding another rented premises that will. If this is extremely difficult to find in your area then maybe consider moving to a more accommodating area. Some dog owners certainly do work 40 hour week, and during this time the dog might need some companionship from a suitable dog, person or even another animal. Is there a relative or friend in the area who could look after the dog whilst the owner is at work, maybe someone to pop in on a regular basis to take the dog for a walk. In area where there is a demand these are now popping up, is there one in the area, and from this address:- http://www.theadvertiser.news.com.au/commo...%5E2682,00.html The Advertiser 17 April 2005 Now it's time for doggy daycare LIKE most daycare centres, there's lots of playing with toys, getting messy in the sandpit and running around – except these "children" are dogs! Pampered pooches craving exercise and companionship are having their needs catered for at what is believed to be SA's first day care centre for dogs. The Holdfast Dog Centre, on a former bowling green at Hove, accommodates up to 20 dogs a day in a fenced 1700sq m area. The latest craze in the US, the facility is the canine version of a childcare centre where dogs are looked after between 8am-6pm when their "parents" are at work. The growing number of owners who don't have time to look after their pets is the main reason the Holdfast Bay Dog Owners Association opened the centre with the help of Holdfast Bay Council. "There are some with separation anxiety issues, most with owners who work full-time, as well as single people who don't work anymore but don't want to leave their dogs home while they go shopping or to appointments," says association senior trainer Karen Molloy. "These days everyone works so hard and when they get home late they may not feel like taking the dog for a run or a walk. "The dogs are so absolutely exhausted after a day that they just flop into bed when they get home . . . they couldn't handle five days a week." One regular client visits from as far as Kangaroo Island during their owners' shopping sprees, while Lulu, a 19-month-old groodle (golden retriever and poodle cross) has been travelling from Aldgate twice a week for a year. Lulu's "mum", Clare Michell, who works at Flinders Medical Centre, said her pet was like a family member and she didn't want to leave her home alone. "My partner and I both work full-time and I didn't like her being left alone for extended periods of time," she said. "She used to chew the irrigation and dig holes when she was bored, but she doesn't do that now." The day is split up into organised activities including a "cat nap" indoors in airconditioned comfort, ball games and even massages. Naughty dogs are separated for a 10-minute "time out" but all are vetted before they can join up, with staff gauging their behaviour in the group for half an hour. Behavioural problems stemming from small backyards, apartment living and time-poor lifestyles are the focus of forums being organised by the Local Government Association and Dog and Cat Management Board. Ideas include councils setting up a database of people who can walk pets and more daycare centres. But Australian Veterinary Association SA division spokeswoman Dr Jenny Weston said owners needed to train their dogs from the time they were puppies to be happy alone. "I have a number of dogs on drugs for medication for separation anxiety," she said. "There are horror stories of people coming home to find ripped walls and doors, it can be really devastating.' Anyway I feel there might be something like the above in your area, if not then it maybe a good business opportunity for someone. As to Brisbane where you are, well I even spotted this news item not too long ago where the Regional Partnerships Program (RPP) was providing $138,000 funding to a dog day care centre in Brisbane known as Happy Tails, and is run by the Help Enterprises organization and staffed by people with disabilities, maybe you might consider this if happen to be near you, and here is what I spotted from this address:- http://www.theage.com.au/news/Breaking-New...2182276048.html

G'day, Eddy here. Meanwhile what is the dog owner doing during the time the dog is trying to climb fences and dig under, maybe inside tapping away on the computer too much and not providing what that dog needs.

G'day, Eddy here. Interesting pgm that you mentioned "Mr Collins was a witness FOR Innotek". Also I find it interesting that you mentioned "Innotek won the settlement against the RSPCA for making false and misleading claims regarding electronic collars", and seems that Innotek won on the majority of points presented in the court case but then the court mentioned something where Mr & Mrs Holliday of ("Orion" & "Innotek") that they had to pay Dr Wirth a total of $30,000, so maybe some points were not won by "Orion" & "Innotek". Anyway I'm not going to mention my views or opinions any more for now but include copy and paste of some parts of the court transcript which various people might want to read, and I'll even include the part about "the question was whether the level of 'pain' produced could be justified" and even the RSPCA and check chains, and as you know some people do have different views and opinions on these, anyway some transcript parts:- 67 He went on to deal with "electric shocks", and said: "An electric shock is caused by an electric current from an external source passing through the body. The shock is the discomfort or pain the body experiences when this current flows. Generally the higher the current level the greater the "shock". Some areas of the body are sensitive to current and the level of discomfort (pain) can be great even though the current level may be low. The greater the separation between the entry and exit points for the current the greater the value of the body resistance. For a given voltage level the greater the body resistance the lower the current that will flow (refer to the equation 1 above)." 68 Mr Collins concluded his report by observing: "Based on the experimental data, summarised above, I am satisfied that the pulses of current flowing through the neck of a dog most probably would be in excess of 20 milli-amps. If the surface of the skin were punctured or lacerated then I would expect that the total impedance could even be less than 100 ohms. Should this be the case than [sic] the current pulses could be far greater than 20 milli-amp. Again I have no test data on animals to support this opinion. As a reference the perception for current in humans is around 0.5 milli-amps. With the current pulses lasting for 600 milli-seconds and with a value in excess of 20 milli-amps the animal would most probably suffer high level of distress ... It is recorded that a dog's heart is disturbed when it is exposed to currents as low as 0.06 to 0.1 milli-amp. This is the lower threshold for heart disturbance. ... Consideration should be given to the possible duration for receiving the electrical shock. With the collar around the neck and the electrodes contacting the skin the dog would be unable to withdraw from the source of the shock. When a human experiences a shock the first reaction is to withdraw and remove the source of the shock. The collar would not enable the dog to reduce the level of the shock. ..." 114 Innotek readily acknowledged that the term "cruelty" is an elusive concept. It accepted that it was open to Dr Wirth, and others, to hold, and express, the opinion that electronic dog collars are "cruel". Other experts could honestly and reasonably hold different opinions. 115 Innotek contended, however, that, notwithstanding the subjective nature of the concept, "cruelty" could be assessed to some degree objectively. This could be done by measuring the amount of pain inflicted. 116 The respondents accepted that the mere fact that a method of training involved the infliction of a measure of pain did not render it cruel. The RSPCA itself recognised that "check chain" or "choker" collars, products which it sold, could inflict pain. It also accepted that dogs were often trained by being hit with various implements, including rolled-up newspapers. It condoned the use of electric fences to keep dogs and domestic animals from straying. It also condoned the branding of horses and cattle with red-hot irons. Plainly this involved the infliction of pain. None of these techniques had been the subject of a "campaign" of the type which it had waged against electronic dog collars. Presumably they were not regarded as "cruel". 117 Innotek accepted that it would be cruel to cause pain to an animal without good reason. At the same time, it submitted, there were circumstances where it would be appropriate to inflict a measure of pain in order to preserve the life of an animal or to protect its welfare. It all depended upon what was reasonable in the circumstances. 119 Innotek did not deny that the collars produced an unpleasant sensation, and one which could reasonably be characterised as "pain". Indeed, it contended that the collars would be worthless if they did not do so. The question was whether the level of "pain" produced could be justified, having regard to the benefits which the collars offered. 120 Innotek submitted that the evidence established that, in some cases, the only practical means to save a dog's life was the use of an electronic dog collar. Some dogs were at risk of being put down unless they stopped barking. Others were at risk of being killed by traffic unless they were prevented from straying. It was obvious that electronic dog collars could be used in a cruel manner. However, in any such case, it would be the misuse of the collar which would be cruel, and not the collar itself.

G'day, Eddy here. I think that quite a number of people would want to have a chat with the parents of the toddler.

G'day, Eddy here Who knows maybe your doggie might find a vibrating phone somewhat therapeutic after they have had some experience with it, and maybe quite different to an anti-bark collar with an electric element. By the way, where did you try the collar on your neck as a dog would, but then your not a dog and different parts of the body are more sensitive than others and where resistance and impedance can be different. You may have good reason to use that collar, but I'm just trying to say that putting these things on your arm, leg, or even neck could be quite deceptive in comparison to a dog's neck and what a dog experiences.

G'day, Eddy here. afton, I think you might have something there as I feel that humans are not dogs and where we maybe different By the way, I remember reading something somewhere from a Federal Court case involving Innotek, that based on the experimental data a Mr Collins mentioned the pulses of current flowing through the neck of a dog most probably would be in excess of 20 milli-amps, and as a reference the perception for current in humans is around 0.5 milli-amps. So from what Mr Collins mentioned I assume what a human perceives as a static tingle might be most probably perceived by a dog in excess of 40 times that of a human.

G'day, Eddy here. If that's the case then maybe a vibrating collar will do exactly the same job, and if these were used by everyone then there would be no need to worry about "In the wrong hands these collars can be a nasty piece of equipment". Maybe by discussing things with the manufacturing companies well they might provide a vibrating collar that is activated by an invisible fence. Anyway see this forum post:- http://forums.dogzonline.com.au/index.php?showtopic=26092

G'day, Eddy here. Maybe Innotec could consider an alternative instead of the collar delivering a "static tingle", maybe a loud speaker inside the home that mentions something like "I'm a pack animal and need some company can you come out and join me or can I come inside with you", or maybe a treat dispenser near the back door that drops a treat or maybe a ball throwing mechanism that throws a ball. The instruction manual could contain the training required for these so that your doggie knows what to do when it hears the noise on their collar. I feel some others might have some ideas.

G'day, Eddy here. There are several ways one could use to train a dog to look up at your face whilst heeling, basically the same ways that are used when not heeling. As you suggested cheese or cabanossi from the mouth, maybe that handler kept the cheese or cabanossi around their neck and gave a piece every now and then by hand instead of spitting it. Maybe instead of food the handler used the dog's favourite toy and that could have also been kept on a string around the handler's neck. Who knows maybe the handler used a luring distraction that the dog loved and which was somewhere else than on the handler. Well here is the principle which I'll explain like this, imagine a glass door and on the other side is the dog's favourite toy or food on the ground, simply just don't open the door until the dog looks up at your face for a split second, then gradually extend the time of the dog looking at your face till you open the door, and then yet later take a step or two whilst the dog looks at your face and if the dog does look at your face then open the door and gradually increase the number of steps heeled. At this address have a read of my previous posts, and rather than use food or toys I suggest using what the dog was more interested in, which was quote by the handler "much more interested in sniffing around & running off to sniff things than anything else", and gees I even used this technique for a dog that loved to mark on trees especially when the dog saw other dogs mark on HIS TREES and that marking dog got their UD title and his training included the reward of marking on trees, anyway here is that address for the sniffing dog:- http://forums.dogzonline.com.au/index.php?showtopic=10254 Now keep in mind that there are several ways one could use to train a dog to look up at your face whilst heeling, and it's just a matter of learning how to use those other ways effectively in a training program. Personally when heeling in Obedience I prefer to keep my hands together near my belly button rather than swinging beside me as some others do, well to each their own, and gees I feel my doggies could heel just about as good as those doggies on that website and I feel that some other doggies in Australia could also.

G'day, Eddy here. I've seen that happening moreso with larger dogs and even the odd cases where the handler treads on the dog's paw such as on left turns. Doesn't tend to happen as much with smaller dogs as they tend to heel out wider as it's a bit difficult for them to stay in position if they turn their head around to look up at the upper portions of the handler.

G'day, Eddy here. When heeling I prefer my dogs to watch my hands as these give signals, plus watch my legs and lower body to align to for positioning, also by watching for certain leg movements can give the dog slight advanced warning of turns and changes in pace etc. Is there anything in the Obedience Rules that a dog has to focus on your face? By the way, be careful about the dog wrapping for if there is physical contacting with the handler this might be seen by the judge as physical guidance by the handler which could result in failing the exercise, and I have seen some cases in the ring where this has occurred.

G'day, Eddy here. Yes Clicker can be used to train dumbbell retrieves plus also used to train any other Obedience exercise, and gees I even use Clicker and so does my wife. Clicker certainly does work very effectively and so does using food or toy luring and even using various playful games. Irrespective of what you choose it does take time and effort to learn and to develop effective training skills when applying to the dog, this later point is where most have difficulty. Simply choose whatever best suites your dog and also suites you, and also what best suites specifically what's being trained and this in relation to your dog. In this later point as an example, some beginners using food or toy luring could already have their dogs sitting, dropping and heeling, this well before some other beginners with clickers have even started clicker training their dog, and this similarly can happen with some beginners even with training dumbbell retrieves. When training I may decide to use clicker, or luring or games, and I may use these in combination or independently. When using combinations of methods whether simultaneously or independently one must be quite fluent and skilled with each plus have a good training plan. In this latter "independently" I mean one could use luring to train the "go into the box, turn and sit" this say with the trainer next to the box and luring the dog, then when this has been achieved in the next stage of training switch to using clicker to extend the distance to the box but where the marked event is when the dog sits in the box this as already learnt in the previous stage with luring. By the way, when it comes to training for Obedience Trialling and whatever methods are used, most seem to have difficulty through the stage of Random Reinforcement, yep even most Clicker trainers.

G'day, Eddy here. What do the beginners at your club say when you ask them why did they join. Have you ever spoken to most of them after they have left the club, what did they say. Periodically does you club ask, if not I suggest it does. Maybe the following gives some clues as to what the vaste majority want and where clubs can help to provide what they really want. Socialisation, training and pet owner competencies - what impression are we making? By Kersti Seksel, see about the author at the very end of this post. A well-behaved dog is welcome in most places. He doesn't jump up with muddy paws, always comes when called, doesn't bark unnecessarily and doesn't chew everything in sight. This dog is a joy to meet and a pleasure to own. However, we have all seen (and perhaps even own) a dog that pulls and drags it owner down the road, or a dog that snaps and bites when it is approached. So why are some dogs like this and others learn how to behave? Pet Ownership Pets are an integral part of western society. Between 10-40% of households own dogs in various countries in Western Europe and in the United States. A 1995 survey determined that of Australia's 6.2 million households, 60% owned pets and of these, 68% had one or more dogs. Thus, approximately 2.5 million Australian households have at least one dog and many have more than one. On a per capita basis, Australia is the largest pet owning community in the world. However, each year about 20% of urban dogs are surrendered to pounds and animal shelters and of these, 80% are euthanased. In 1989 about 20 million dogs were surrendered to animal shelters and surveys indicated that 50-80% of these were because of behaviour problems. The largest cause of death of puppies under one year of age is said to be euthanasia due to behavioural problems. Indeed, most dogs do not live to their full age potential with the average age of dogs in Australia estimated to be only 3.5 years. In fact, behaviour problems are now considered to be the number one reason for euthanasia in pets, regardless of age. Surveys indicate that the factors that were most likely to lead to dogs being surrendered to an animal shelter were: 1. if the dogs had not attended obedience classes; 2. being sexually intact; 3. eliminating inside regularly; and 4. not receiving veterinary attention. If the dog had a low purchase price (less than $60), was less than 6 months old, and of mixed breed, the risk of surrender also increased. In another survey 25.6% owners surrendering their dog did so because of behavioural problems in their pet. The most common problems were boisterousness (10%), aggression directed towards people (7.7%), and interdog aggression (9%). Of the dogs that were rehomed, 17.4% were returned to the shelter and 69.2% of these dogs were surrendered because of behavioural problems. There are many factors that appear to increase the risk of dogs, especially puppies, being euthanased or abandoned. Incorrect choice of pet, unrealistic expectations of the dog, and an undervaluing or perhaps, ignorance of the time, money and effort required to be a responsible pet owner all contribute to the problem. The large numbers of dogs surrendered worldwide present a burden financially and emotionally to the people and organisations involved in dealing with the problem. Interventions, which might reduce the likelihood of euthanasia or abandonment of dogs, could help reduce these problems. Behaviour Problems Given that dogs live in the household, and are integrated into the social structure of the family, it is not surprising that there are occasions when the behaviour of the dog can be problematic. The problems can be minor and mildly irritating, such as jumping up when greeting the owner, or potentially dangerous such as aggression directed towards people. Although many times the behaviour is either accepted or successfully modified, if the behaviour is perceived to be a serious problem the owner may to seek professional help for the dog, have it euthanased, or rehomed. There has been a great deal of research regarding behavioural problems in dogs. Several large surveys indicated that some dog owners felt that their dog had a behaviour problem of varying degrees of severity. The reported prevalence of perceived problems or potentially dangerous problems range from 42% (Voith, Wright & Danneman, 1992) to 87% (Campbell, 1986). Most of the commonly seen behavioural problems are usually behaviours that are disruptive to the household or potentially dangerous to people, other animals or to the animal itself. The behaviour is often socially unacceptable and undesirable but may in fact, be a normal behaviour. However, even normal behaviours when carried out at inappropriate times or to excess, may be considered abnormal. Behaviour should always be considered in the context in which it occurs. It may be inappropriate for the owner when the dog urinates inside. However, if the dog's bladder is full and its access to the outside is blocked, then it is appropriate for the dog to urinate inside. The most common problems apart from aggression, that dog owners report to veterinarians and dog trainers include behaviours such as digging, jumping up, barking, destructiveness and chewing. These are all normal behaviours and as such cannot be eliminated entirely. In fact, it is possibly detrimental to the dog's welfare to try to stop normal behaviours. However, they can be modified to a more socially acceptable behaviour by altering the time, place or duration of the behaviour. The owner also needs to understand why the dog may be behaving in this way and how to respond accordingly. A little basic understanding of the nature of a dog and its needs can be very helpful in dealing with the problem. Many of these unacceptable, destructive and nuisance behaviours are exacerbated by boredom, confinement and lack of activity. Dogs are highly intelligent, active, social animals who need activity, company and stimulation. If these basic needs of dogs aren't met then it is not surprising that they find other ways of fulfilling these requirements. Pet Selection People keep dog for many reasons including companionship, sport, prestige and security. These reasons need to be considered when dealing with dog owners whether in training classes or with urban animal management problems. Counselling owners about the most suitable breed for their particular circumstances before they actually acquire a dog would be the ideal situation. This is a service that veterinarians can offer to their clients but few do so at present. Services such as 'Select-a-Pet' are also available to help potential owners with advice on choosing a pet based on the temperament of various breeds, owner lifestyle, owner expectations and personal preferences. If potential owners are made aware of their dog's innate breed characteristics such as tendency to vocalise it may help them deal better with the dog's behaviour and make their expectations of behaviour modification more realistic. Socialisation Period The behaviour an animal exhibits at any time is influenced by three main factors. These are: 1. an animal's genetically inherited tendencies or predisposition to exhibit a particular behaviour; 2. the animal's previous experience and what it has learnt; and 3. the particular environment at the time. If a dog is to be an obedient and welcome member of the household he needs to start off on the right paw from the moment he comes home. He needs to know what is expected of him and what is acceptable behaviour right from the beginning. Behaviours that might be cute when he is little won't be so acceptable when he is fully-grown, and unfortunately, he won't grow out of them! A new puppy needs to be taught good manners and that is what Puppy Preschool is all about. It is an early socialisation, training and owner education program designed to help owners and puppies get off on the right track in life! The socialisation period has been classified as the 'critical period' for the formation of social relationships, during which even a small amount of experience can have long lasting effects. It has been established that the socialisation of puppies occurs somewhere between 4-12 weeks of age, although this is not rigidly fixed. Experimentally, puppies that were isolated from all human contact until 16 weeks of age failed to interact with each other, with humans or play with toys when they first emerged from isolation. With continued contact these puppies eventually became hyperactive but still showed a decrease in social contact with both humans and each other. To develop into normal, friendly and confident adults, puppies need regular handling and to be exposed to many new and novel situations. Puppies that are not exposed to other dogs during the socialisation period are likely to develop aggressive or fearful responses to other dogs later, just as puppies that are not socialised to humans often develop behavioural problems. Hence, it is during this time that it is most important to expose the puppies to as many things and experiences as possible in a non-threatening way. The puppy needs to interact with its littermates, its mother and with humans for social relationships to be developed. Initially the puppy is very curious and willing to approach novel objects, especially moving ones, including other dogs and humans. Play barking and biting develop, as does the tail wag. Throughout this period, play also becomes more important and progressively more elaborate as the pup learns what is and what isn't socially acceptable (eg bite inhibition). If the puppy bites its playmate too hard play stops. Next time the puppy doesn't bite so hard thus the puppy learns to be less aggressive in its social interactions. Play also allows the puppy to develop confidence, manipulative skills and learn canine body language. This is a period of rapid development and the puppy begins to notice its surroundings. The puppy has developed the sensory and motor abilities to be aware of its surroundings and is also able to react to them. The end of the socialisation period is not rigidly fixed but is influenced by a number of factors including what the puppy has experienced during this time, its breed and also differences among individuals within a breed. It appears that unless some socialisation occurred before 14 weeks of age, withdrawal reactions from humans were so great as to make puppies virtually untrainable. Early isolation appears to produce hyperactivity, affects fear responses and decreases learning ability. Yet many puppies are not homed until after this age or go to homes where they may not experience a wide variety of situations. Hence, it is important to provide opportunities for puppies to socialise and learn good manners and Puppy Preschools® are a good start. Unfortunately, even though it would appear that Puppy Preschools® are becoming more widely accepted as an important step in the normal development of puppies, there is still more work to be done. A number of issues still need to be addressed. First of all, not all puppy-training classes are of the same standard. For a successful outcome the classes need to be controlled and run correctly with very experienced trainers in charge as during this very important period in a puppy's life there is as much potential for harm as there is for good to come out of the classes. They are not the place where inexperienced trainers learn their trade. Additionally, the basics of learning theory and reward based training or motivational learning is still not well understood by many who run the classes and this can also lead to problems when conducting puppy-training classes. Although puppies are capable of learning a lot they have short concentration spans and are quite clumsy. Puppy classes are not the same as obedience classes run with younger subjects. In fact, the aims of puppy classes are very different from obedience classes. They are about starting puppies off on the right track and teaching good manners not about obedience commands and teaching perfection in the obedience ring. Apart from teaching puppies the purpose is also to educate owners about pet ownership, normal behaviour and give them realistic expectations about their dog, and help the dog and the owner form a strong bond with each other. Obedience Training Pet owners attend obedience classes for many different reasons, but most do not wish to go on to competition level. They just want to be able to manage their dog in and outside their home. However, traditional training classes have focussed on competition work and this has contributed to a large drop out rate and often feelings of dissatisfaction with the classes. Additionally, obedience training has been seen as the answer to all behaviour problems, yet behaviour problems are not the same as training problems or even problems due to lack of training. Owners have taken their dogs to obedience training classes to help resolve their dog's behaviour problem but unfortunately not all trainers are competent in dealing with many of these problems and some problems should not be dealt with in the training class forum. In my opinion the obedience-training situation is not a suitable one for dealing with problems like aggression. Although there is much attention given to the socialisation period, and even to sexual maturity, not enough has been given to social maturity and the behavioural changes that occur during this time. Trainers, as well as owners, need to be aware that this is also a time of change in the dog's development and is also the time when many behaviour problems, such as aggression, first present themselves. Basic obedience training should really be considered as teaching good manners to dogs. To have good manners a dog needs to know four commands: "sit", "come", "stay" and "down". This can be considered the equivalent of the four words we consider when we think of people with good manners "please", "thank you", "hello" and "good bye". Additionally dogs need to know how to walk nicely on a loose lead and not pull when out walking. All these commands can be taught to puppies as well as adult dogs using the same positive methods. The Delta Society's accredited Canine Good Citizen® program (CGC) is one which addresses these issues and provides a suitable forum for pet owners and their dogs. Where to now? Although, pre-pet selection services, Puppy Preschool® classes and CGC® classes are a step in the right direction they are still only reaching a small minority of pet owners. Additionally, they appear to mainly reach the already responsible pet owners. Education would appear to be the answer but how to reach the others is an issue that still needs further investigation. Useful References and further reading Puppy Preschool® and Kitten Kindy® videos with instruction manuals and client handouts are now available from the Australian Small Animal Veterinary Association. These 8-minute videos illustrate the training techniques used in these classes and are suitable for trainers, veterinarians, veterinary nurses and clients. Bailey, G. (1995). 'The Perfect Puppy'. Hamlyn, London. Bradshaw, J. (1992) 'Behavioural Biology in The Waltham book of Dog and Cat Behaviour', (C Thorne - Ed) Pergamon Press. Oxford, U.K. Dunbar, I. (1979) Dog Behaviour - Why Dogs Do What They Do. T.F.H Publications, London. England. Donaldson, J. 'Culture Clash' Fisher, J. (1995). 'Understanding the behaviour of dogs'. Association of Pet Dog Trainer's Conference, Training people and dogs in the 90's, Chicago. Fogle, B. (1990). 'The dog's mind'. London: Pelham Books. Hart, B and Hart, L. (1988). 'The Perfect Puppy'. WH Freeman & Co. US Heath, S. (1992). 'Puppies in your practice'. Veterinary Practice Nurse, 4 (3), 29-30. Houpt, K.A. (1998) 'Domestic Animal Behavior for Veterinarians and Animal Scientists'. Iowa State University Press, Ames, Iowa. Kennedy, A. (1999). 'A dog in your Family-a guide to the perfect companion'. Oxford University Press, Oxford UK. Landsberg, G., Hunthausen, W. & Ackerman, L. (1997). 'Handbook of behaviour problems of the dog and cat'. Oxford: Butterworth-Heinemann. Nott, H. (1992) 'Behavioral Development of the Dog In The Waltham Book of Dog and Cat Behaviour',(C, Thorne -Ed) Pergamon Press. Oxford .U.K. Overall, K. L. (1994). 'Temperament testing and training: Do they prevent behavioral problems?' Canine Practice, 19 (4), 19-21. Overall, K. L. (1997). 'Clinical behavioral medicine for small animals'. St Louis, Missouri: Mosby. Owren, T. (1987). 'Training dogs based on behavioural methods'. Journal of Small Animal Practice, 28 (11), 1009-1019. Robinson, I. (1992) 'Behavioural Development of the Cat in The Waltham Book of Dog and Cat Behaviour' (C. Thorne, Ed) Pergamon Press, Oxford. U.K. Seksel, K. (1997). 'Puppy Preschool - Instruction Manual'. ASAVA, Uncle Bens of Australia Publication. Seksel, K. (1997) 'Puppy Socialization Classes'. Veterinary Clinics of North America, Small Animal Practice, 27, (3) May, p 465-477. Seksel, K. (Ed.). (1998). 'Behaviour: Information by Prescription'. Pymble, Australia: Life learn, Arthur Webster & Associates. Post Graduate Foundation in Veterinary Science. Seksel, K, Mazurski, E. & Taylor, (1999) A. 'Puppy socialisation programs: Short and long term behavioural effects'. Applied Animal Behaviour Science. Thorne, C. (1992) 'Evolution and Domestication in The Waltham Book of Dog and Cat Behaviour'. Pergamon Press,Oxford U.K. Voith, V.L., Wright, J.C., & Danneman, P.J. (1992). 'Is there a relationship between canine behavior problems and spoiling activities, anthropomorphism, and obedience training?' Applied Animal Behaviour Science, 34, 263-272. Weston, D. (1990) 'Dog Training: The Modern Gentle Method'. Hyland House South Yarra, Victoria. Australia. Weston, D. (1992) 'Dog Problems The Gentle Modern Cure'. Hyland House South Yarra, Victoria. Australia. Weston, D & Weston, R. (1996). 'Your ideal dog'. South Yarra, Victoria. Australia: Hyland House. ABOUT THE AUTHOR Kersti Seksel Seaforth Veterinary Hospital 55 Ethel St Seaforth NSW 2092 Ph: 02 99491288 Fx: 02 99496364 Kersti graduated in Veterinary Science from Sydney University and became very interested in animal behaviour while working overseas. To further her knowledge she went back to university graduating from Macquarie University with a BA in Behavioural Sciences with a major in psychology. In 1992 she began developing the program of Puppy Preschools® in veterinary hospitals around Australia. This interest led her to complete a MA (Hons) degree by thesis on the long and short term behavioural effects of puppy socialisation and training programs. She is a registered specialist in animal behaviour, one of only two Fellows of the Australian College of Veterinary Scientists in Animal Behaviour and a Diplomate of the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists. She has studied at Cornell University, USA, University of Pennsylvania, USA, Guelph University, Canada and Queensland University, Australia and is a NSW Veterinary Surgeons Board registered Animal Behaviour Consultant. In 1999 she spent 7 months on faculty at the University of Pennsylvania, based in the Department of Clinical Studies, Animal Behavior Clinic. Kersti has presented at conferences and meetings in Australia, NZ, UK, Japan, Europe and USA. She has published numerous papers on animal behaviour in scientific journals, magazines and periodicals and is a regular contributor to print and electronic media. Currently she is a regular presenter on Channel 7 and ABC radio on pet care and behaviour as well as columnist in Dog's Life and Your Garden magazines on behaviour problems.

G'day, Eddy here. The vast majority at training club leave when they have obtained what they wanted, that is to go for a walk down the street with their dogs on-lead without their dogs pulling and misbehaving. Maybe they can learn how to train dogs to walk on-lead by instructors who really want to specifically train others for this. Only a very small percentage are really interested in obedience trialling. Maybe they can learn how to train dogs to precision heeling off-lead by instructors who really want to specifically train precision heeling off-lead, and if one looks around there are some very experienced triallers who don't use leads when training their dogs precision heeling and this even from the very start of training.

G'day, Eddy here. Yep her "fluffy" as in lambswool was another toys that I used to train dumbbell retrieves. The lambswool had to be replaced now and then as she also loved chewing it, but then that's great as the chewing on the lambswool helped to keep her teeth clean particularly between her teeth as the fibres acted like dental floss. Good thing about lambswool, well you can train a lambswool retrieve then later wrap the lambswool around the shaft of the dumbbell and do retrieves with that, then later the lambwool could gradually disappear just leaving the dumbbell. By the way, if the "tug workshop" was near me I'd love to go, and if I picked up even just one bit of information that could help me and my doggies then it certainly would be worth it. Yes I do using tugging to train some dogs for dumbbell retrieving, even use tugging to train some dogs for stays. But then for some other dogs I may use something different depending on what they prefer and how they would like to be trained. And gees if a dog prefers to retrieve dog biscuits for pieces of chicken or ham, well I'll even use that if that's the way the dog likes to be trained.

G'day, Eddy here. At my local training club some were preparing for trialling such as you described, and why I chose to train completely different to the way they trained. Maybe the doggies have been conditioned to a years worth of training on-lead and where the leads gave a subtle que here and there to the doggies on what to do. Here is something to think about, when people come home or maybe arrive at a park, when the lead is removed the dog is allowed to run free, sniff around, go do this or that, these are rewarding to the dog and are provided when the lead is removed, after a year of this might this have some effects on the dog when the lead is removed in training class.

G'day, Eddy here. I have seen some people start off with their dog's pulling on lead when out walking, then progress to loose lead walking, then later again progress to precision heeling for obedience. Personally I prefer to "back-chain" to the above by first training precision heeling then later for walking on loose lead this for reasons that sidoney mentioned, and the last thing I train is pulling on lead such as when we do Tracking.

G'day, Eddy here. Well paddles we all have our reasons for doing what we do. With my little doggies they had their toys to hold and play with and their food to hold and eat, and my children and I had our things, and we all knew which things belonged to who this in what I taught them as they grew up. Well I encouraged my little doggies to play with their toys and to hold and eat their food. Guess what one of the toys was that I used to train dumbbell retrieves with this little doggie, and here we are playing tug-o-war and when I let go the doggie wanted to continue the game so would hand me the toy back, and another little dog in a similar fashion retrieved dog biscuits and chew hides where these were placed in my hand so they can continue getting something much better from me in freshly cooked roast chicken or ham.

G'day, Eddy here. Well I train for novice but as my dog was ready for novice trialling at 3 to 4 months of age but wasn't allowed to trial as he was too young (ANKC Rules say 6 months of age), well I then decided to train for open before novice trialling. After open titling well I then start UD training and obtain 1st UD pass at 10 months of age and UD titling at about 1 year old. My other doggies were just a bit older with similar results. Personally I feel "training one thing at a time" best avoids confusion and training problems, and in the long term it's the easiest and fastest way to OC titles.

G'day, Eddy here. Yes there is a resource, it's called the ANKC Obedience Rule Book, available from your Training Club Secretary or from the State Canine Council general office. I feel if you intend to trial then it's wise to study this book with your Training Instructor as part of your preparation for trialling. By the way, just click on this link and you will see I've included a copy on my website at this address:- http://members.optusnet.com.au/~safcav/Tra...dienceRules.htm