Debbi

Hi, I am not exactly sure if you are meaning that you dont want the puppy to repeat the accident in the same spot, or you want to remove the smell, but I have a book that indicatates that white vinegar mixed with a little water in a spray bottle both removes the smell and the stain of dog urine. I haven't had to try it, but have always kept it in mind, as I have purchased the commercial "urine off" and found it not so effective, but that was a long time ago. Best wishes Debbi

In addition to comments made above a little blood in a puppy's stools can be an indications of worms, and I would be checking on the worming proceedure of the puppy and his due worming date. With respect, Debbi

Hi Rhi & Jak, Whilst I agree with the response below, there is a time and place for "mouthing". And providing it is gentle mouthing, not in the ring, not becoming excessive, and not harsh, (personally) I dont see a problem. Many of my adults still "mouth" as a sign of affection, to take me somewhere to show me something, or for many other intelligent reasons. Although it is NOT CONSTANT, and not harsh. I know many will disagree with me but in certain breeds, this is also an expression of love, and so long as it doesnt become "an issue" or go further than "mouthing", then other ways of looking at this possibly should be considered. One way to stop is simply to put your hand on their head. They are simply looking for affection, and a way of you giving them love. As you say in your post Depends on the breed I suppose! Only my humble opinion, Debbi

sorry Toohey, we posted at the same time! Deb

Hi Redapple, I might be a little off track here, but why is it that you only refer to medium to large breed dogs in your question on hip scoring? Any dog that has a score over 0/0 essentially has radiographic "hip dysplasia", however there is a difference between radiogaphic hip dysplasic and visual hip dysplasia. DONT get me wrong, I am not adverse to the hip scoring program, but a) believe it must be put into prospective, and b) believe it is not limited to "medium to large breed dogs", as clearly shown by the fact that as examples clumber spaniels, cavalier king charles , Welsh springer spaniels have all quite high "median ranges". Only my humble opinion, and sorry to go off track a little Debbi

I agree with Miranda, I would not have this proceedure done except as a really last resort. In the instance where we took the vets advice it was on an older dog, and the dog never recovered, the pain for the dog was so excessive, and it was the most horrid and painful proceedure I have seen any animal attempt to endure. We had a very young bitch with constant anal gland problems, and the problem sourced not from the anal glands but from an infection that she had in her spinal column that had no way of escaping except through the anal glands. A HUGE and prolonged course of antibiotics resolved the problem for her. I would be wanting to ensure that this is simply an anal gland problem, especially on such a young dog. Only my comments, I wish you well for your dog, and feel much for both of you, but please, dont take this decision lightly. Best wishes, Debbi

Hi Pampa, Yes, we have had experience with what was originally diagnosed as discospondylosis however, effectively it was a radical infection of the vertabrae in the last part of the spine prior to the set on of tail (best way to explain it to you), in a young puppy. It was caused from birth, where a vet nurse dropped the puppy, and the puppy hit the wall , (bum first), and later infection set in where the injury had occured. It took a course of events where she developed as a normal and quite outstanding young puppy, and we kept her, however commencing at approximately 12 weeks, she developed anal gland problems where we had to express anal glands, and was put on antibiotics. THis continued, and we fought with the vet about the abnormality of this problem. Over a period of months she deteriorated to the point where she was literally unable to walk, her hind muscle had wasted, she was chronically thin, (all under vet care), and we constantly argued with the vet. Upon being advised that we had no alternative but to euthanise this puppy, we demanded a referral to a specialist clinic, for diagnosis, and with further argument, we sought a brilliant person, who under MRI found the severe infection between the discs, the infection had originally no external way out from the body, (as a baby) but via the anal glands, and then just localised between the vertebrae. With MONTHS of exceptionall strong courses of antibiotics, and an absolutely strong willed bitch, she pulled back to the once brilliant puppy that we first saw, and went on to do much winning. We owe much to the specialist who had the ears to listen to us, and the desire to search further than to just give up. HOWEVER, having said all of that, we knew the whole history of this puppy, and could track down all the events leading to the problems. Hope some of the above helps you! Debbi

Hi Fit for a King, We have to much respect for one another, not to agree to disagree! There are some breeds of dogs that do not respond well to certain groups of drugs, and this needs to be taken into consideration as well, breeders and owners of these breeds should always be aware of the drugs, foods etc that breeds are intolerant off! Cartrophen has been around for as long as I can remember, (but I refuse to show my age! And for people who worry about arthritis and joint problems, 'joint guard," and glucosimine are always good natural additives that work in the same way by giving relief directly to the the joint and joint capsule. The thing is, what works for one dog may not always work for another, but it is not always the product that is the problem. Have a great day. Deb

Hi, Matacam is an exceptionally good product and nowhere near as harsh as Rimadyl, which has had much documentation on the side effects of it documented from the USA. Metacam MUST me administered WITH FOOD, without exception. ALL of this type of product must be, failure to do so, will cause ulceration to the stomach. There as with many dogs, will be some dogs who will have adverse reactions to drugs. However ulceration of the stomach can only happen by drugs of this type failing to be given with satisfactory content in the stomach to prevent ulceration happening. It is the same with human drugs, which is why warning is given, to have either with food, or on an empty stomach. Deb

Hi, Being a "singleton" pup is really not the issue here! We have had a litter (more than one) where we have had 'nipping" puppies in the litter! And they were NOT singleton puppies. We chose where to put the puppy carefully and discussed fully how to deal with the situation from the onset. Saintlysusan simply needs some supportive guidance on how to deal with this issue, not criticism. Nor does she need (if this has happened) people criticising her to the breeder. She came to the forum for help. Whilst I now don my flame retardant suit, we guage all our puppies for "dominance" issues from babies, if one knows how to do so, it really is quite easy, a "time out" area for Boris is essential in correcting this behaviour. Not the entire backyard, that is his play area. Just a small area that he can be placed in, when he has behaved incorrectly, that he can consider his actions, and realise that if he does what he does he will get NO REACTION. Then he needs to be let out supervised calmly. By saintlysusan or her husband, supervised, and controlled quietly and rewarded for his calm behaviour. Any sort of attention seeking nipping, which is exactly what this behaviour is with the children, which, by the way, Saints love, is to see him back in the time out area, so that he realises that it is unacceptable. Saints are overly intelligent dogs, most willingly to please their owners, on the basis that their owners are clear and decisive about what they show that they wish they want from their beloved pet, who is only to willingly to try to do. Unclear and indecisive instruction, leads for confusion for them. This behaviour can be corrected, SAINTLYSUSAN, please, Boris wishes to please you, but he needs precise understanding of what behaviour you expect from him. I am ever so happy to help you through this. I have a singleton puppy at present, who is so keen for my attention, that she will almost jump through hoops to show that her love for me is beyond all boundaries. It is just a matter of letting Boris know what is expected, what is acceptable and what is UNACCEPTABLE. For children it is harder, the puppy is almost if not as big as them, they automatically respond in certain ways, and Boris sees that as reaction. He will be their best friend and protector for life, you will work through this! Regards and my support Debbi

Hi Saintlysusan, How old is your puppy now? You should have been receiving help on this topic from your breeder in relation to seeking problem solving tips, prior to now, have you not contacted them, or they not been able to offer successful suggestions in management of this problem.? The problem goes back to when Boris first arrived home, trace it back to then, and work it forward, it is UNACCEPTABLE BEHAVIOUR! Do you have a "time out" area for Boris, that you can seperate him and the children? How old are the children? Did he always nip? There are many ways of dealing with this type of behaviour, but you must realise that it must be dealt with as fast as possible, as the longer it continues the more difficult it becomes to resolve. When we let our puppies go to families with children, we spend a considerable amount of time, discussing the needs of the children and the needs of the puppy, what is acceptable, and what is unacceptable, and the behavioural development starts from the moment your puppy arrives home. Encouraging chasing games, rough and tumble games, and the like are all never a good idea, as it does not give a Saint puppy who grows fast in body, but no equally in mind the opportunity to understand that one day, it was ok, to play rough, but not the next when all of a sudden he was slightly bigger. If he was a "nipper" from the outset, then it should have been dealt with early, as you will see dealing with it as he becomes larger is much more difficult. A time out area is a neccessity. He must understand, that nipping, is unacceptable, and he will not get a response, (any response), and as such, by simply the fact that you, or your husband have to go and intervene, and the kids would be squealing, and running to get away, is all response from him. He should be placed in the time out area, where he gets no attention, and then quietly let out at a brief later time, by an adult, and supervised where he is quiet, and well behaved. Only then let the children become involved. You can contact me if you need further discussion or help on this matter, I am a little late at reply sometimes at present, but you have all methods to contact me, and I am happy to help you through this. Debbi

whilst a little off topic, this story brings me BIG SMILES of my "HEART DOG" who ran a mile, from a puppy! If they squeaked, came near him to give him kisses, he was OFF, used to sit on the grooming table like the big sook that he was, and just "over watched" the whole "puppy scenario". He doesn't have to worry about things like that now, as he ages. He now has a son, that seems to think he also is "above" the "puppy thing!! And has taken his "daddy's" role for him. Memories are such wonderful things!!!!!!! Deb

The majority of times that a dog eats its own faeces (search Coprophagia) is because the metabolism of the food it is getting is not being metabolised correctly and the faeces is actually (ok I dont want to be jumped on here, I am saying majority of times) is because the food is actually coming out not as waste but as still some content of FOOD, and it smells enticing. That is why if you put pineapple (crushed including juice) it stops usually the practice, a better method however is to work out have you changed the feeding practice, and thus this is why? In the meantime, use pineapple, and over a period of time it will work. We have found that on the odd occassions that we have encountered this that it is always a certain feed product, and removing that feed product stops the problem, but we have always found that pineapple stops in the interim, (when we have fed that particular product and had the problem). Regards Debbi

Hi Puggles, with respect, the greater majority of seizures in dogs, (epilepsy) is Idiopathic, Idiopathic simply means that it is of "no known origin". If there was a "known origin" then the cause would be identifiable and treatment options would be available, (ie brain tumours, specific neurological disorders etc). That is in fact the reality of seizures (multiple) in our canine and feline friends. The fact is that in the majority of cases they are Idiopathic epileptics, simply because the cause is not known. One seizure, does not deem epilepsy, two seizures does not deem epilepsy, it is not until there is a known situation of a history of seizures that "epilepsy" is diagnosed, and it is known as Idiopathic in the majority of cases in our pets because there is no known cause, although much research is still being done. Therefore, we must live with the information and research that has been done in relation to epilespy (in general) and much of it that has been done in relation to people also passes on to our pets, (such as flashing lights, stress, tiredness). There are other things that can cause seizures, but these things SHOULD have been ruled out in your boy's case. The fact that you state that your boy "twitches" is a "pre indicator" in many instances. You should (I am not telling you what to do ) but it often helps, to record for example, those times where twitching is more noticeable, where eyes appear a little more "listless or dull" and then notice the next day, what the situation is. Diaries of all behaviour, and you will soon find that you may find that you will become astute enough to see the "pre warning" signs often many hours prior to the actual seizure activity. Just some food for thought for you. Deb

Hi Puggles, I have not absorbed all your posts, if he is having multiple seizures, I am not sure if they are every day, but as mentioned "eyes" are great indicator, even to the night before. "distant" eyes, are an indicator of impending problems sometimes as early as 24 hours prior seizure activity, (if one is used to, or astute enough) to pick up and assess the indicators. There are many predisposing 'set off" factors to seizures, one of them is "flashing lights". Many of these can be very subtle. "fluro tubes" that are not constant, (ie subtly flashing. Flashing lights in some instances are a set off for seizure activity. There are many predisposing factors or precipitators to seizure activity. Its a matter of knowing some of them and reducing the exposure. Stress, over tiredness, there are a number of other key factors, but to many to list and not all are "trigger factors" in all cases. the key is to as best know "your own circumstances" and learn to read "your pet" as best possible. It wont cure the problem, and it wont avoid all the seizures, and it by no means replaces medication, but it helps to understand, and assist in some areas. Deb

Hi Puggles, Dont be so "cynical", its not as crazy as it sounds, "focus" works with people as well, people who are fortunate enough to have "partial" and also grand mal seizures. The issue is to attempt to get a "focus" point and attempt to focus the person calmly through the situation, some people are able to be focussed through to avoid the worst point of onset seizure. If you are "attuned" to your animal, you will be able to see warning signs, and the more that you can gain the attention of your pet, the more that you can focus your pet through, the less (in some cases) the seizure activity will be. Once the brain loses focus activity, then full seizure control takes over, and at that point, then you will be unable to bring the animal, back out of the seizure. The key is to gain focus PRIOR to loss of full brain control. Hope this makes some sense. Eyes are always a good indicator. Debbi

Hi Hazz, There are a couple of things here I think that could be mentioned. Firstly, check your gazette, is there not a vet that will do your vaccinations for SACA members? ie a travelling vet? (come to your home?). Next, sure the vet has a responsibility, but the thing that I noticed is that your dog licked the saliva? from the floor, (I am not trying to be overly critical of you, but something worthy of mentioning!). We also have large dogs, and IF we have a need to take them to the vet, we wait outside until we are required the dogs are walked in when required, and then walked straight outside again, they dont wait in the waiting room, they dont have contact with other dogs, and they dont have contact with floor surfaces with the exception of their feet, (or if for some exceptional circumstance) to lie down. If puppies were to go to the vet (which they dont) they always go in to the vet in a show trolley. Debbi edit to add show trolleys have always fitted through the doorways we have never not managed, they fit through a standard doorway if a normal show trolley.

Hi Kitkat, I think the product you might be referring to is called "Padaid", it is one of the better products there are a couple of other ways, but it is as good as any. Debbi

:D (DUH) Sorry Dru! Forgot to come back here, after being away for a day in hospital!!!! (It does things to the mind!) This may sound really silly to SOME! But a really cheap and easy way to remove coat from a shedding smooth, (and rough), is to get a used "hack saw blade" with small teeth put either masking tape around each end, better is a small rubber section of hose that slides on, (the idea of this is that it is easy for you to hold with both hands) then slide the blade through the coat. It is the same as a stripper blade, HEAPS cheaper, works over a wider area, and is NOT harsh on the skin on a smooth as it only works on the coat. It doesnt actually matter if you get a new blade, just watch the length of the teeth of the blade, (its easy for me to see rather than explain). THis method, because of the width of the area it covers works really well, works fast , and is really cheap, ie, virtually no cost. OK, now you can commit me! But you can give it a go if you like!!!!! Deb ;) :D

Hi Dru, What exactly are you wanting to do on your smooth??? Just strip out the undercoat as it is shedding? Deb