Dog_Horse_Girl

Her age is approx 2 yrs.

While you're entitled to your opinion, I've been feeding BARF to my dogs for well over two years and it is what works best IMO. I would never offer a dog HSD b/c it's absolute garbage and perhaps causes cancer (among other diseases). Nobody recommended HSD, the rescue was given a quantity of it so they've been using it, but they follow a raw, natural foods diet philosophy too. Dr Ian Billinghurst, a very well-respected vet, recommends a rapid switch to BARF for the dog accustomed to other types of foods. And I have to say that this works in the majority of cases. But Molly is a toy mixed breed and I have no experience in small dogs. That's why I posted what I did. Fasting a dog for 24 to 48 hours is not a problem. I don't usually fast my dogs but from time to time, it's a good idea to give their systems a break no matter what you feed them. You say that tripe, liver and ox tails are very unusual foods - no they're not. Processed pet foods are unusual and a rather recent invention that is designed to line the pockets of multinational giants. I do not support these corporations willingly b/c they are morally and ethically corrupt IMO. Perhaps if you conducted some research and gave some consideration to what you feed, you might just learn a few things and perhaps change your mind.

So, Molly arrived on Sunday night and after the excitement died down somewhat, I offered her a couple of chicken necks - she *loved* them. I thought that we were off to a great start esp when I thought about all the horror stories from ppl with tiny breeds and mixes...how fussy they can be with their food. Anyway, since then, she doesn't like what I offer - she'll still go the chicken necks but that's all. I've tried veg/fruit slop (she has a couple of licks and then walks away), plain yoghurt (didn't like it but ate some tonight), ox tail (wouldn't touch it even when I cut the meat open with a sharp knife), and offal (wouldn't touch white tripe or lamb liver). She also wants to bury her food rather than eat it b/c she tries to get it under cover (I use cloth nappies on the floor to try to protect it, but I have to give up that idea or she'll just 'bury' everything in folds of the nappy). Tomorrow morning I'll skip her meal. Then tomorrow night, I'll try a smashed up chicken wing raw, with slightly warmed up liver and tripe. If that doesn't work, then I'll slightly warm the RMB the following night. I figure if she's hungry she will eat at some point. I'm torn - I know the advice, I've given it to others hundreds of times, but at the same time, she's new here and perhaps still unsure of everything. How long should I wait before abandoning or modifying BARF to suit her? She has been used to HSD, but I wouldn't feed that. IF and it's a very big IF, I had to give her processed, it would most likely be EVO or California Natural of some sort. If anyone can help me sort it, I'd be grateful. So, anyone with a tiny dog that don't know what's good for them? How did you overcome the issue? All suggestions gratefully received.

BARF = Bones and Raw Foods or Biologically Appropriate Raw Foods ALA Dr Ian Billinghurst. Re Petbarn Northmead, I used to shop there regularly for my dog foods. That was before I researched what dogs are eating vs what they ought to be eating...now that I know better, it's only human grade foods for my dogs, no matter what!

I use complete mix on and off, it's not a bad product but nor is it necessary in a truly raw diet. I mostly use it when we are on the road as this is a better alternative to other foods to serve with the RMBs. I've tried other VAN products too, and they're fair to good. Many pet shops now stock some/all of the range - if you can't find it, ask. Most retailers are happy to try to help their customers source products IMO. I can't recall what pet supplies stores are in the Highlands (my family is there) but you could also try the stock feed places.

Why do you feed minced meat? I avoid it unless I can see the butcher mince the whole steak...that way I know exactly what's in it. I feed using the BARF philosophy and so we don't allow much minced meat at all. The dogs get most of their meat from meaty bones and we "supplement" with mince sometimes. BTW - my dogs eat only human grade foods. Pet food is just too iffy for my liking.

One big key factor is that food should be eaten quickly and if not, it's removed after a set time (usually ten minutes). If the dogs get a big RMB every morning, chances are that any processed foods will be refused. If this is the case, then you could make the evening meal one of other raw foods...kibble is the last thing most dogs would choose to eat themselves! My dogs eat their meals when given - but they're BARF fed. Molly is only learning about real food as she was given HSD at the rescue. So far, she eats chicken necks and turns her nose up at everything else. But the bowl gets taken up after ten minutes and eventually she will eat it all. Given that she's only been here two days, she's got to adjust at her own pace.

I would never tether a dog, I'm just too overprotective of mine to leave them that vulnerable. A crate would be the better alternative IMO. And most dogs accept a crate even if they don't like it very much. You'd feel much better knowing your dog can't hurt anyone or be hurt by anyone...crates are a GREAT and under-used dog tool, IMO. Failing that, an ex-pen might be another option...but more expensive than the crate.

Both my girls have SA - Ruby is rather destructive when alone without appropriate activities and Lilly will get so worked up that she loses bladder control (and sometimes bowel control too). They are both indoor dogs but are not kept in the same area of the house b/c we are concerned about bickering over toys and so on, plus they "play rough" if allowed and we would more than likely come home to overturned furniture! Even with appropriate and sufficient activities and company (TV and/or radio), Ruby still likes to destroy things, particularly anything upholstered or our bedding. She shreds her blankets which is fine, b/c they're HER blankets but when she repeatedly did the same with OURS, she was banished from our bedroom except when we are there. We found that alone training helped somewhat, as does ignoring them when you come and go - but DH has to go through elaborate hello's to Ruby b/c he just doesn't understand that it's counter-productive to do this. Anyway, you can try behaviour modification with the help of a trainer/behaviourist, you can try medication (either an anxiety reliever or a sedative), you can try leaving the dog appropriate activities, and you can buy a DAP diffuser. All of these measures will help. A DAP diffuser, IMO, is one of the most under-rated tools available to help anxious dogs or dogs going through anxiety-inducing incidents such as rehoming or boarding. They're (finally!) again available in Australia, but I still purchase from the UK b/c it's so much cheaper that way. PM me if you need/want more info - I'll try to help if I can.

When we first got to Canberra, we used the vets at Kaleen, but weren't happy with them. Nothing specific, just not overwhelmingly good or pleasant. Moved to Gungahlin area, and moved vets to Gungahlin vet clinic (the house practice WAY before the hospital opened next to woolies petrol). The vets are all very experienced and they have a specialist surgeon (always a plus if you have accident prone dogs IMO). But the individual service can vary b/c they're a bigger practice now. I'd use them if we return to the Gungahlin area but they can be a little pricey and sometimes a tiny bit paternalistic - depending on the subject matter. We still don't know which part of Canberra we will be living in - and we move in five weeks! But I hope we have it sorted soon.

The ten hours is only twice-weekly though isn't it? If this were my dog, I'd prefer to crate for this time period than rehome. Crating isn't cruel as some ppl like to think, esp not for a dog already crate trained. IMHO it is far better to crate a dog (with appropriate activities to keep her busy) than to rehome (that would be an absolute last resort option for me). I know of many, many greyhound ppl in the USA that crate their hounds for more than 10 hours at a stretch, five days a week. Not that I condone that, but it's what many dogs are expected to manage and they seem OK. I know that there has to be a happy medium - it seems that crating this particular dog would keep her both safe and quiet?

I would crate much easier than I would muzzle a dog left alone. Crates are a very effective way of ensuring your dog and home are both safe when you can't be there to supervise. Of course, I mean that you crate the dog inside the house! Having said that, you must start crate training b/c you would not be wise to just crate a dog without any build-up to it. Make it the best place to be for the dog by feeding her in there and giving her treats only in the crate. You can also invest in a DAP diffuser which IMO is the best ever dog invention. It helps to calm anxious dogs in all kinds of situations and has almost cured my two girls' separation anxiety. I am very much against leaving dogs home alone outdoors b/c it risks their safety - there are too many ppl out there who get their kicks from hurting and killing innocent pets - just look at yesterday's case in Ballarat. Not to mention vindictive neighbours who think they're justified in harming or killing a pet b/c of the pet's behaviour. Even in a locked run, it's possible to get a baited meal through the wire, so you can't be sure your dog is safe there, unless you cover the wire mesh with shadecloth and that is easily cut through. As always, JMHO but worth thinking about and I hope you can resolve the problem peacefully. Oh, and dogs bark - you can't stop a dog from barking b/c it is a completely normal behaviour, I liken it to trying to stop a person from speaking...impossible!

It seems the OP has done a runner?

IMHO there is no way a reputable and ethical chi breeder would allow their pups to go under at least 8 wks. Ten to 12 wks is preferable for such a tiny breed. Your post also concerns me b/c you seem to be planning to leave them alone from the time they arrive. Correct me if I'm wrong here. But pups must be fed regularly and also allowed out to the toilet every couple of hours. I hope that you have *someone* responsible at home to care for them while you work? If not, perhaps you could consider grown dogs rather than tiny pups?

I've always bathed and groomed our dogs myself, but I know that plenty of ppl don't have the time and/or space to do so. It would be worth considering...

IMO the reason most vets are against natural diets is b/c they can't make money from it - our dogs are healthier than processed-fed dogs, they have much cleaner mouths than processed-fed dogs, and vets don't sell RMBs and the other components of a raw food diet. And if they did sell natural foods, there is no big profit compared to selling Hills or the other crap they "recommend". Raw foods are cheaper than processed. And they're better for the dog! IMO it's nothing to do with WHAT we feed per se, it's to do with reducing their profits. I also think it comes down to personal opinion, experience, and perspective. Some vets are OK with natural diets and others are completely against, but overall, I think WE know how to feed our dogs best, don't we? I would never do anything to harm my dogs and I did my research before switching. I keep current through the internet and books, so I know what I'm doing is right. I'd say the only problem is that the vegies are not pulverised - just juice the vegies, blend some of the juice with all the pulp and serve. I make enough for two weeks or so and freeze it in sandwich bags. Sometimes I include garlic or parsley in the mix. I swear by the BARF diet and would never go back to processed. :D

I'm so sorry Trish, but it's the right decision, tough as it is. Hugs. :D

I feed my dogs BARF and make my own veg/fruit slop. It includes, in varying amounts: tomatoes (not more than a couple of times/year); zucchini (ditto re: tomatoes); carrots; pumpkin; broccoli; cauliflower; capsicum; spinach and/or silverbeet; bok choy (sometimes); potato (rarely); celery including leaves/tops; apple; stone fruits; pear; kiwi fruit. It's not an exhaustive list but it's all I can think of ATM. I made up a batch last weekend! I reckon it's the best way to feed your dog. I've been feeding this way for over 2 yrs with no trouble.

I've only recently seen these products advertised, and the price is prohibitive for me at the moment. My GH would eat three patties per meal, the princess would eat one or two, so that's not cheap over a week. I continue to shop, freeze, and pulp veg/fruit slop. It's more time-consuming but affordable. BTW - does anyone know of a whole rabbit supplier in SW Melbourne? I haven't been able to find any...the dogs are living on chicken and lamb RMBs at the moment and could use some variety... everywhere I've asked, they think I'm some kind of weirdo...maybe they're right?