Dog_Horse_Girl

Titre testing is being done in both the UK and USA. From what I've read, this new regime hasn't improved dog health or outcomes in terms of vaccine-preventible disease...but titre testing is VERY lucrative apparently b/c it costs a LOT more for the owner to get titre testing than to administer annual vaccinations. Either way, when my dogs have to go to a boarding kennel, I would feel uncomfortable knowing that the operator accepts unvaccinated dogs...and I would NOT board my dog in such an environment. Therefore, I will continue to choose a *reputable* operator that insists that MY dogs and everyone else's dogs are vaccinated to the minimum of C5 (or C6 in a lepto-prone region). I don't know why anyone would risk the health of their dog/s by boarding them somewhere that doesn't require vaccination.

Every *reputable* boarding kennel operator will insist upon every boarding animal being vaccinated with a C5 or higher vaccine within the previous xxx-months, usually within the past 11 months. Or if the animal is staying beyond the 12-mth point from previous vaccination, a current vaccination (that is, one done at least 14 days previous to arrival in kennels). The reason this is requested is to reduce the likelihood of infectious diseases being released to every animal at the facility. As many people know, while Kennel Cough isn't generally a "serious" or life-threatening condition, it IS nasty for the dog that catches it, it does take additional management of the animal so inflicted, and it spreads like wildfire so virtually every dog in the immediate area will come down with it. With some of the other diseases such as Parvo Virus, being highly transmissable AND being virulent in the environment for up to 12 months, any kennel facility would be forgiven for requesting evidence of vaccination - the outbreak of a Parvo episode in a boarding kennel environment would mean no business for up to a year. I'm not sure that many kennels would take such a risk and if you found one that does, you wouldn't leave your own dog there, would you? I would RUN AWAY from any boarding kennel operator that didn't insist on evidence of C5 or higher vaccine within the previous 11 months. :rolleyes: Oh, and for those owners that don't want to vaccinate, they also don't use boarding kennels but may find a private dog-minder to come to their own home instead.

I've bolded the points that some *seem* to be having trouble with, that is, a pup is OK to be crated to learn house training. It's what many vets, behaviourists and trainers recommend particularly in the UK and USA. But I did say "just don't crate him forever" and I trust that people do know what that means. If you'd rather leave your pup roaming indoors, that's your choice. If you'd rather leave the pup outside, again that's your choice. My suggestion to crate while house training is what I've found to be the most useful method of house training. It's acceptable as a short-term tool, and it works. :D

I comprehended it perfectly well, thanks. When you give "advice" which is contrary to the best interests of the pup/dog, EXPECT someone to pull you up on it, and correct it, in the best interest of the dog referred to. I have no problem with the lead, I have a problem with excessive crating time, AND the pup being either in the crate or on leash for most of the time. So, if you comprehended my post, why on earth did you feel it necessary to question what I had posted? :rolleyes: You can't have it both ways. Either you pick my posts to pieces for a valid reason (which doesn't apply here, as you've just admitted as I've quoted you, that you DID comprehend my post) or you just pick them to pieces b/c you get some kind of kick out of it. Whatever floats your boat, as Dr Phil says! You can always 'ignore user' if you don't like to read what I post...but that wouldn't be as entertaining for you, would it? ;)

You ARE joking, aren't you? According to the above, the poor damn pup is spending most of his time in the crate. And if it is only large enough to be a bed, he should only be in it for a minimum amount of time. That advice, imho, equates to animal cruelty. Crates are NOT a way of life, or a substitute for decent puppy care, they are a worthwhile tool, but ONLY if used correctly. According to the above, he will only be out of the crate for a couple of hours day!! How is he supposed to develop, both mentally and physically, like that? ralphthelab - just stick with it. He doesn't have much control at the moment. Take him out, wait - and make much of him when he goes (a "buzz" word often helps). Inside, take him out 10 minutes after he eats, and wait. Take him out about every 45 mins, or when you see him nose down, or circling, or looking uncomfortable. He will pee in his bed if he can't get out, because he simply can't hang on that long. If you are crating him overnight, try to take him out late pm and early am. If you are worried about him having accidents inside, buy some of those puppy pads from the pet shop. The are like a disposable nappy, only flat. Lay one on the floor, and with any luck, he will use it. They are impregnanted with a smell which suggests "puppies go here" - and 90% do use them. That will save your floors if he is caught short - and he will use it. Personally, I would confine him to the laundry, bathroom - somewhere cool and with a hard, impervious floor, while you are at work. Much safer for him. Give him his bed, toys etc, and put one of the puppy pads down. (And hope he doesn't chew it up, has happened!!) No I'm not joking...this is a baby pup with no bladder or bowel control and from what was posted, in a busy household that doesn't catch his 'need to go signals'. So crating is suggested only if the person can't supervise as I outlined...where I said, in part, "when he's on lead (inside or outside)." Or did you not comprehend that bit? It's perfectly acceptable to confine a pup using a lead assuming there is a competent person holding the other end to ensure the pup's signals aren't missed. To the OP, please take whatever advice suits your situation...but the basics of house training are: supervise, confine, praise/reward, ensure you have a word or phrase to use when the animal toilets so they make the connection, and use a crate if you want to do so b/c IMO and experience, crating and/or lead-bonding work very well to house train a dog or pup.

There are some keys to house training a pup that are fairly easy as long as you are consistent with this. 1. Confine the pup when you cannot supervise. This means a crate - it should only be large enough for him to use as a bed. If he can toilet in one end and sleep and eat in the other, it's too big. Reduce the crate's interior size by putting a divider in. 2. The pup should only be "free" at the following times: playing, after meals when he's outdoors toileting, when he's on lead (inside or outside). 3. Ignore mistakes and try to remember that if he's making mistakes, it's b/c you're not seeing his 'gotta go' signals or you're not taking him out often enough. 4. He will need to toilet at least: after every meal, as soon as he wakes up, after each play session. 5. He needs a routine. This means a schedule for meals, toileting, playtime and other quiet time. It's up to you to ensure these things happen regularly and predictably. 6. Feed him definite meals and don't leave food down all the time. Also, remove water at least one hour before bed and just give him a few ice cubes instead. 7. IMO it is much harder to house train a dog OR pup that is left outside during the day. It takes them longer to establish the connection between "outside" for recreation and "outside" for toilet. If you can keep him indoors in his crate during the day, he should pick up the connection much more quickly. And if you're having someone come home at lunchtime, IMO crating him should work fine! Just don't crate him forever - - - but you won't need to anyway. HTH. And congrats!

It's not a huge achievement, but I've worked with Molly consistently since I adopted her in Nov 05. She was quite frightened of men, some other dogs, loud noises, things moving...you get the idea. She was also not 'trained' including not being toilet trained. Molly now trusts some men to the point where she will approach without fear (it takes some coaxing but she's much better than 13 mths ago). She isn't so scared of noises and managed VERY well with the long weekend fireworks in June. She also no longer freaks out if something moves suddenly. She's actually a very cheeky dog now...and I'm sure that was always there but it was hidden. She's house trained...mostly. She sometimes has a little accident. But we forgive her that b/c she's only little and she can be on her own all day when we are at work. I have thought about litter training her and am still considering that option. Other than that, she's reliable off lead now...has a good recall (if she wanders more than five metres from my side at all!), is capable of 'waiting' until I signal her to eat...is very competent with hand signals alone now after me teaching her with voice and hand signals together. I've given up on the others :D ...except my foster Piper! She's a "work in progress"... I *would* like to get Molly into formal obedience classes with the aim of gaining some titles. Eventually.

Sounds as if they get a little extra $$$ from the companies that supply these cheap foods. The genuinely super premium foods include (in no particular order): Nutro, Nutrience (esp the Holistic range), Eagle Pack (again the Holistic range is good), Dick van Patten's Natural Balance Organic Formula, and Royal Canin. The Hill's, Iams/Euk, Advance etc, are OK but I wouldn't feed them, and as for the rest...not worth the money if you ask me! I feed a raw, whole foods diet and my dogs do very well on this approach. But it's not for everyone, and it sounds as if you'd need to do a fair amount of reading and research before you could begin to try this method. BTW - do a gradual switch when you change foods. :D

Perhaps try a better quality food and see if that helps? :D

Not necessarily - I have heard of vets being totally ignorant of the needs of specific breeds and giving advice that is absolutely wrong. You must remember that many vets simply don't have a clue about the differences between breeds - they are simply not trained for this. Sighthound sensitivity to anaesthetic and some breed specific congenital problems are about all they have been taught. You only have to look at the vaccination issues to see how many vets just don't have a clue - I know of many vets that swear blind that heartworm injections have absolutely no side effects, and that C5s absolutely never cause kennel cough :D Unfortunately some breeders are equally clueless Listen to your vet and breeder, then do some research and make up your own mind - there are plenty of threads here on the problems caused by early desexing to start with. In that case, perhaps point those vets in the direction of the ample research/evidence that has come out of the USA studies...or find a more competent vet! I shop around for a reputable vet each time we move, and I can tell you that it's easy to sort the wheat from the chaff in many cases, just by giving the vet a call and asking the receptionist/nurse a few simple questions. If that goes well, take a dog in to get weighed. And if that goes well, make a wellness appointment for your dog/s. I reckon that we have to be well-informed, and there's nothing wrong with ASKING QUESTIONS of your vet and/or breeder...and keep asking questions until you're satisfied OR find another vet that you are completely comfortable and happy with. You're handing over the care and control of your dog/s and this requires some work on the part of the consumer to ensure the service meets your needs.

I guess the answer depends on several things, including the breed of dog in question, the owner's motivation in managing that animal if/when she is in season, how the animal was obtained (relevant to rescue b/c all reputable rescues desex before rehoming or have adopter complete a desexing guarantee), how the animal is to be housed, whether the animal is living with or in close proximity to entire males, whether there is a possibility of the animal being used by a registered breeder for breeding purposes. Generally speaking, if the animal is not to be used for breeding, desexing can occur safely at any time after 8-16 wks of age depending on breed/size (when I say 'safely' I mean in terms of the procedure itself). But your vet and/or breeder are the best people to give advice specific to your own dog. ***My personal view is that all animals NOT kept by registered breeders or show exhibitors is that the animals should be desexed at the earliest opportunity. There are many reasons for this, but it comes down to the sad reality that there are far more unwanted dogs and pups in our society than there are responsible homes available to take and adequately care for them. Having desexing as something not mandatory under current regulations, sees many (unqualified) people and some unscrupulous people allowing dogs to breed solely to make a profit by selling the pups at inflated prices (either to the public or to pet shops). Perusing sites such as Petlink only confirms the nature and scale of unscrupulous people breeding with dogs and on-selling pups to anyone with the right amount of money.

Hi LW, I've cared for a number of newly-desexed female dogs and the main things to do and look out for are: 1. Keep her warm, as the dog loses a lot of heat through the GA and surgery. 2. Give her extra-soft bedding. 3. A crate is ideal for the first 24 hours post-op, so she can properly rest. 4. A light dinner post-op is fine, but many aren't hungry...and some get very upset tummies. 5. Leave ample water or ice cubes for the dog post-op. 6. Check the wound periodically to ensure there is no major inflammation or infection developing and for excessive swelling. 7. Light exercise only for up to 7 days post-op, to help the wound settle and heal. If you're concerned at any time, call the desexing vet for advice.

Good for you! I responded to what you posted which is why I quoted you...if you think I can know everything about your pup's lives then please tell me how I could know what you've just posted here (that I've just quoted above)??? I'm not THAT psychic! And yes, my dogs are all happy, healthy, well-adjusted, know their places in our lives, obey commands and are keen to learn new ones, and being dogs, they are loyal to me and to my husband. Even the dogs I foster flourish in my care, as evidenced by a number of people making comments as to the progress my current foster dog has made since I rescued her some months ago. But this thread is about puppy care and I don't take or keep pups, only grown dogs b/c I know pups are less suited to our living arrangements (I'm a contract worker so can't guarantee that I can go home at lunchtime during the work-day). I'm not being judgemental in the least, but as I said, I've responded to the concerns that your first post raised. They are valid concerns. That you have addressed them to a degree shows that you care about your animals but also that you still believe you are doing nothing that may adversely affect either or both of those animals' health or well-being. They are your animals and you are entitlted to treat them how you see fit, within the laws that apply. But some of the management tools you have posted in this thread concern me - - - that's all.

So, you have two pups home alone all day and that's OK (perhaps anyway), but you post some things of great concern to me. A pup with a pot belly is NOT a good sign. Is this animal being wormed at the appropriate intervals? Has it been vet checked recently to rule out any potential problem? A pup should not get hard physical exercise while its bones are soft and the pup is growing so much. A run is not a good idea unless on soft sand. And 45 minutes of running every day is not appropriate for a young animal. Your vet or breeder will explain this to you if you're in any doubt about the negatives of hard exercise for your pups. I don't think anyone here is espousing the belief that any dog or pup should be "wrapped up in cotton wool". But what is being suggested is that a young pup (baby pup) needs to be fed and checked on at least once during the day for its own health and safety. Not to mention the owner's peace of mind. If the owner isn't able to go home at lunchtime to do this, then there are other options such as hiring a puppy walker or asking a friend/relative/neighbour who you TRUST to feed and check on your pup. And IMO baby pups should NOT be kept outdoors unsupervised b/c they aren't able to regulate their body temperature as well as adult dogs are able to do so. So when it's HOT the baby pup feels HOTTER, and when it's COLD, the baby pup feels COLDER.

How's Miss Bree now daisy? Poor baby. Give her an extra big cuddle from me. And sending gentle healing hugs to Bree for a speedy recovery from this nasty tummy bug.

Congrats on your new pup! The topic of feeding is a broad and well-debated one on many dog forums including DOL. You'll get many opinions b/c everyone generally *likes* what they feed and so will suggest or recommend THAT to anyone that asks the question. I have three dogs and usually a foster dog too. My own dogs are all fed on raw, whole foods, primarily meaty bones, offal, veg/fruit, sardines or mackerel, egg (sometimes in the shell), and from time to time they also get a pre-made BARF patty (frozen, made by the BARF Diet "father" Dr Ian Billinghurst). I started off reading his book, "The BARF Diet" and went from there. My foster dogs are fed primarily on dry foods. Partly b/c we are lucky to get food donated to us, and partly b/c most people won't want a dog that's accustomed to a diet other than a dry foods one. I do give Piper (my current foster) two or three raw meals per week though, b/c I believe this is better for her than the dry food despite the dry foods being of fairly good quality in most cases. My experience, advice and opinion is that if you are so inclined, please research a raw approach and if/when you feel confident, switch your pup over. But please do adequate research b/c it's so easy to get the balance wrong. I've taken four years to come up with an approach that works consistently well for my dogs...but the beauty of this method is that you can easily adjust things as the dog's condition changes. HTH. ;)

I train with at least two of my dogs every day (different sessions). With a foster dog, it's important to know what they need and how to achieve that rehomeable behaviour as effectively as possible while ensuring the dog enjoys training. With my own dogs, the sessions are usually quite short (no more than 10-15 minutes at a time) whereas with a foster it's usually combined with a walk of between 30-40 minutes duration. With my own dogs, I want them to respond to basic commands most of the time, be polite, and respect boundaries. With fosters, it's usually a lot more work than that! But my end goal is to ensure the dogs and I enjoy the training and to that end, I keep sessions short and fun. If I notice the dog is tired, not responsive, or seems bored, we stop on a positive and try again later. I feel that is so important.

No KW my answer wasn't directed at you - it was directed at sas who rather pointedly asked, after quoting yours and my posts, "What was it about water restrictions that you were unclear on?" I still believe that the tone of the question wasn't genuine but attempting to cause a fight. ;) I also believe that a wading pool simply can't be confused with a swimming pool when we are discussing the context of water saving measures such as those commonly referred to as "water restrictions". A wading pool is by its very nature - and perhaps indeed definition - as a small, shallow pool designed to allow wading only. A swimming pool, OTOH, is a deep (more than knee-deep, I would guess) pool designed for swimming - and I believe swimming is something done with the whole body of the swimmer IN the pool - immersed in the water and moving through it by way of the movement of limbs to propel the swimmer. But if sas would like to clarfiy exactly what was meant by the above question "What was it about water restrictions that you were unclear on?", please do so. Because from the tone and context of the aforementioned question, it was to provoke an argument rather than a discussion or even a measured and intelligent debate. :D KW - back to the topic - if you can record the dogs when you're not home, via video or audio, please do that so you can hopefully pinpoint which dog/s are barking, when and for how long.

I have a greyhound and she's been on Interceptor (now Interceptor Spectrum) since I adopted her in August 2002. I've had zero problems, and every vet we've consulted support or recommend the use of this particular product for h/w and intestinal worms. I have no issues with intestinal wormers being used monthly as long as the dosage is accurate. I am very confident with using this product.

Stacey, I don't think you'd be breaking restrictions by filling a wading pool. If you are then so am I! I've got two clam shell halves and I fill one with water a couple of times a week so the dogs can paddle. HTH. What was it about water restrictions that you were unclear on? The information I have in front of me, from ACTEW, Stage 2 Restrictions from 1 November 2006, still current - state that - and I quote: "Private swimming pools - Existing pools must not be either emptied or refilled without written exemptions. Previously filled pools must not be topped up without a written exemption unless: (a) the pool is covered when not in use, and (b) topping up is undertaken with a hand-held hose only between 7am to 10am or 7pm to 10pm on alternate days as per the 'odds and evens' system." I'm not talking about a "swimming pool". Perhaps you could explain (with a direct reference from ACTEW, with the date of the commencement of the restriction - if one indeed exists) where a clam shell wading pool is actually classified as a "swimming pool"? I'd like to invite you around for a "swim" if you are up for it. :D ;) But you would have to be under knee-height for any kind of "swim" in the clam shell half that I put a few inches of water in so the dogs can cool off. ;) I can't believe you actually posted what you did. :D I can't believe that anybody could confuse a wading pool (described in my post as a "wading pool") with a "swimming pool". :D

Parvo virus. Nuff said.

It sounds as if your breeder has been 'sponsored' by that company? IMO there is nothing wrong with a well-researched BARF diet for a pup. I feed my own dogs on raw, whole foods (and have discovered they like the BARF patties available commercially, so use those occasionally), but my fosters on higher-end dry food. I believe my dogs do better on their natural diet than do the fosters on commercial dry foods. People who are scared of natural diets will say anything IMO to frighten others off them too. As long as you're prepared to research and follow a proven method for feeding a raw diet, your pup will grow into a healthy adult animal assuming all other variables are optimum as well. :D As always, JMO.

Yes, I'm sure anyone could draw any conclusion from what I've posted if they want to. :D

Lilly (my greyhound) used to eat snails if I wasn't quick enough to stop her...they made her *very sick*. :D Where on earth does anyone have a wet enough garden for snails ATM? Our place is so dry there's no hope of a snail outbreak... Back to the topic - I would trap snails and remove them daily (or nightly)...they're not good for a dog to eat...doubly so if anyone in the area is using snail bait.

Yes, I believe it's important for a young pup to have someone check on its well-being on a regular and frequent basis - that includes feeding, toileting and ensuring the pup isn't sick. It's not acceptable to just leave a bowl of food as I've said numerous times, b/c if a pup or dog is sick, one of the first symptoms is lack of appetite. Free-feeding can completely mask a dog that is off its food. Similarly, not having someone competent check on a pup on a regular and frequent basis can mean if that pup gets sick, it can die alone - pups crash very fast when they get something as "minor" as a tummy upset b/c it can lead to severe dehydration. But then I'm involved with rescue where we do sometimes see some nasty outcomes for pups and dogs due to illness that's been ignored or left too long before a vet consult, possibly b/c nobody is home or available to check on the pup or dog. I'd rather not home a baby pup to someone that's isn't able to provide care for that pup during the time the person will be at work - whether that be the person coming home at lunchtime, or employing a puppy walker, or getting a trusted friend or relative to care for the pup - b/c there are too many things that can go wrong. Sure, most survive their puppyhood apparently unscathed. But I wouldn't take the risk that something terrible could happen in my absence...