Dog_Horse_Girl

There are several strains of the leptospirosis virus in Australia, prevalent in the wet, humid tropics. If you live in such an area, or you intend to visit with your dog/s, IMO it's definitely worth getting the Lepto vax. Beats a dead dog anyway. Ours are C5 ATM, but will get the C6 when they are due...or the Lepto on its own before we leave Canberra, if the Wet continues much longer in the Top End.

The least amount of time necessary for the pup to learn toilet training. Why? Did you have something else in mind?

Are you advocating that the dog spends 24/7 in the crate except when he is tied up (to the owner)? is outside having a toilet stop? Are you having trouble reading what I've posted? I said supervise or confine or have the dog outside going to the toilet.

No I haven't ... are they books or online articles? Both books, but you'll find millions of hits online as well. Sifting the good from the bad is a little more of a challenge though! :D

What you need to do is either supervise, confine the dog, or have the dog outside going to the toilet. You need to establish a routine, that is, the dog goes out at the following times: when waking, after meals, after play or exercise, and once every hour regardless. If you're not watching, of course the pup will likely make a mistake. You must watch - - - either have her leashed to your belt so you can't not watch her or - - - confine her to the crate (only enough room to stand up, turn around and lie down - - - or have her outside with you watching her and giving her the "toilet" commands you have chosen.

How can a vet determine that it isn't motion sickness? If it IS anxiety then any anti-anxiety remedy will help. Your friend could try rescue remedy, DAP spray or collar (Not available in Australia but over the internet you should find a supplier or two), or any homeopathic tincture for generalised anxiety...

Personally I'd never give this place any of my business. It used to be the knackery (and probably still is...so NO WAY would I buy anything from them). Go to any traditional butcher - they've usually got a great range of meaty bones, offal and off-cuts at cheap prices. And they'll help you decide what to buy for your dog/s if you're not sure. Even some supermarkets have a good range of meaty bones and offal, and while you're there, you can pick up the veg and fruit for the dog/s too! Have you read "The BARF diet" by Billinghurst? Or "Raw Meaty Bones" by Lonsdale? Both are excellent references to begin a raw feeding journey IMO.

What makes you say that? Sure yoghurt is something I add for my dogs about one week in four, b/c of the probiotics more than anything else. A wild dog would eat the entire carcass of its prey if it was lucky enough and in the case of a lactating prey animal, that would include its udder contents. Veg and fruits are found in the intestinal tracts of prey animals too. Therefore, dogs are quite naturally evolved to eat these plant materials, as long as they are provided in a pulverised form and fed only every second or third day. Why not have a look at some of the raw feeder's books? You could try Dr Ian Billinghurst (where I started on the raw feeding journey), or Tom Lonsdale...both excellent introductions to the natural diet for canines. Dogs definitely haven't evolved to eat processed (cooked, ground) corn, for example. But so many people still feed it in the dry foods they give their dogs. Without a second thought either! Yet to suggest a raw, whole foods diet to some people is just ridiculous b/c they've not familiar with canine dietary requirements other than "open a bag" - most people couldn't decipher the nutrition panel or ingredients list on the average bag of dog food...but it's SO important to know what you're feeding your dog/s. I know exactly what my dogs eat b/c it's in its relatively "whole" state - chicken parts (wings, feet, drumsticks, carcasses etc), lamb flap or neck, kidneys from cows and sheep, and whole vegetables and fruits. And it's all human grade, first quality b/c I buy it where I buy my own food. These few simple yet highly nutritious ingredients make up the bulk of my dogs' diets and they do exceptionally well on this method of feeding. It's very cost-effective too! And you did say that cost is a factor...as it is for many of us! But if you want to feed processed, feed one of the super premium foods such as Nutro, Nutrience, Dick van Patten's, Royal Canin or Eagle Pack. It's much less expensive over the life of your dog/s.

I've had several experiences with transporting dogs. Flying unaccompanied is always risky IMO...the dog is alone and really at the mercy of baggage handlers and airline staff. I flew with my dog from Darwin/Sydney and return...he was left on the tarmac in Brisbane for 20 minutes (I was watching from the terminal). It wasn't too hot a day but it must have stressed him b/c it was February. When I collected him in Sydney, his crate was a complete mess, proving he hadn't been let out for a toilet stop at all. I've flown Molly unaccompanied when I adopted her...but she went part-way by road with a rescue transporter...and arrived in perfect condition - if a little bewildered by the whole experience. OH and I have driven Darwin to Canberra with our then two dogs. We have also driven with the 2 from Canberra to Cairns. And again from Cairns to Melbourne. Then with 3 dogs from Melbourne to Canberra. In a little while, we are driving with the 3 from here to the Top End - we don't anticipate any problems and we will be pre-booking our accommodation along the way. As long as the dogs are restrained adequately and supervision is appropriate, there shouldn't be a problem with either transport method. But for my dogs, if we're going by road, so are they!

The problem is we can't afford to feed them any of these, which all seem to work out twice as expensive as Euk I thought that feeding them a better quality food than what the supermarket offers would be preferable. Because its generally considerably cheaper than buying from a pet shop or the vet. My vet actually tried to convince me it would be cheaper to feed them on Royal Canin than supermarket food... I've done the calculations and its not!! Unless I only have to feed them a third of what is recommended I'm not trying to start a war or anything.... and please inform me so I know. But what are they supposed to do? If they have limited funding there's only so many dogs they can care for, feed and shelter at one time? Are they supposed to just start turning animals away? And if there is a company sponsoring them, then wouldn't it be so they could increase funding, therefore decreasing deaths, and also providing the animals with a better quality food? RSPCA is a very wealthy organisation. Hills is a major sponsor but the organisation receives millions in government funding, millions in bequests, and millions in donations from a gullible public. It makes a LOT of money. There are many more organisations that save more dogs than RSPCA that don't get any gov't funding or bequests, and manage to survive and save MORE dogs than does the RSPCA. If the shelters wanted to provide a "better quality food", they could seek corporate sponsorship from Eagle Pack or Nutro, but I don't see that happening...and many of the dogs and cats in RSPCA shelters are sick from eating HSD... As for the "I can't afford a good diet" idea - would you rather spend more money at the vet b/c your dog gets sick, gets foul teeth from eating cheaper foods, or has digestive upsets on a regular basis? Eagle Pack is cheap really - you're feeding about 1/8 of a supermarket brand food to start with...a large bag will last you much longer than a large bag of crap like Euk or HSD. Your dog might do OK on these foods...and so do people that eat mostly McDonalds. But how healthy are they, really? As a much more affordable alternative, can you not afford to buy fresh meaty bones, fresh veg/fruit, organs and yoghurt? This is what I feed, plus canned sardines/mackerel, eggs, and sometimes a bit of cheese! Do some research onto what actually goes into dog food...check out the nutrition information and learn what the ingredients lists really mean. You would be horrified at some of the rancid fats used in many processed foods...fats that cannot legally be used for human consumption so they're sold to the pet food manufacturers instead. There are ingredients that dogs cannot digest such as corn and corn-meal...no good for canines at all! But they're cheap so they get top of the ingredients list in the cheaper foods including Euk and HSD. I know that everyone has a different level of affordability but dogs need good nutrition for optimum health and well-being and it's up to us to feed them the best quality foods possible. I'm sorry but Euk and HSD are no better than the supermarket foods IMO.

Yes, alone training is the key here. Very short absences building gradually into longer ones. Ignore the dog when you come and go. Also get a DAP diffuser. This will hopefully help to calm your pup and help him adjust to a whole range of new things...new home, new surrounds, new people etc. It's a HUGE adjustment for any creature but dogs are routine-driven creatures of habit. Try to have the routine as similar as possible until the pup settles in properly.

I'd suggest either a raw, whole foods diet, or a better quality kibble than Euk. The good choices include Royal Canin, Eagle Pack, Nutro, Nutrience, or Dick van Patten's Natural Balance. I have no problem with imports - they're superior in quality as compared to all the locally produced stuff. If you've ever been past a Bush's knackery or Pedigree facility...you'll know THAT smell. That's the quality of the pet food we make here. Utter crap. P.S - Why do you have to buy online? ;) ETA - HSD is a huge sponsor of RSPCA...the organisation that kills around 50% of the dogs that go into their "shelters" among other atrocities.

I take all my new arrivals to the vet ASAP when they come home. In this case, I would have thought a phone call to the shelter as the very least to begin with?

I started a "slow and steady" switch to raw foods, then decided that was a bit silly and did a rapid switch with no ill-effects. If anything the dogs coped far better with raw foods than with the processed food. ;) If you start with chicken and your dog has no problems, you can then introduce the next protein type and so on.

If you have a chicken wholesaler nearby you can't beat their prices. I used to get a 10kg box of frames (actually carcasses) for $6.00. One kg of chicken wings was $1.20 or so. Necks, again a 10 kg box for $10.00. Woolies is a bit expensive IMO. The other products are much cheaper at a traditional butchery...if you can find one! If you work in the CBD, why not head over to Queen Vic markets of a morning and buy your stuff there? There's plenty of choice and VERY cheap.

I bought a metal baby gate from Target not long ago, cost was just under $70. It's great value...keeps my little dog and the foster separated but still together.

Well said PF! I wonder why so many dogs seem to have this issue? It's certainly only IMO b/c they've been allowed to pull or walk as they please in the first place. It's not a problem that is an overnight-fixer either. I would probably suggest using food treats as a lure to keep the dog in the desired position and to distract the dog from his intended path with a lure, marker and praise when the job is done right. But as I've said, it's not something that's fixed quickly in many cases. Best of luck!

Yes, we all wanna know...are you gonna be there???

If you're talking about 'Spray 'n Wipe' that could be part of the problem. You need to be cleaning up using an enzyme-based cleaner to remove as much of the odour as you can. Dogs can sense odours much better than humans can. You may not be able to smell the piddle, but your pup most likely can. I'd say go back to the beginning with house training. Confine the pup when you can't supervise, take her outside as soon as she wakes, immediately after meals, after play and reward and praise EVERY time she does the right thing. Also take her out once an hour besides the times I've described. DON'T allow her to play outside, take her on lead and make sure she goes to the toilet. Allow 15 minutes at most. If she doesn't toilet, back inside to her confined place (crate, room with hard floor, on lead attached to your belt). The second you see her "need to go" signals, such as circling or sniffing, get her outside on lead, and give the command to toilet. If you are doing this consistently, you will see results in a week or so. NEVER rub a dog's nose in their toilet mistakes. That's just cruel. :D

Give them to your local rescue group. I'm sure they would be most grateful for the help. I know many groups rely on donated food to keep their foster dogs fed.

They may *work* on one level (that is, 'food' goes in, waste comes out) but aren't all ideal for the dog's digestive system or overall health. The day I see a dog cooking its meal is the day I feed my dogs cooked foods. Raw and whole is best for my dogs. :D They certainly wouldn't want a cooked chicken part - as I've said...just ask my dogs.

IMO canned food is the canine equivalent of McDonalds...just rubbish. Nature's Gift is OK in emergencies or if you have a recuperating dog. But be prepared for a loose bowel and a very stinky dog. Why not feed fresh foods? You can see *exactly* what your dog is eating, your dog will be much healthier, you will spend less money (but you say you get the canned 'food' for free so I suppose you aren't concerned about $)...IMO fresh is best for both people and pets.

NEVER feed pet mince of any sort cooked, always raw. But why bother with mince when the whole part is ideal for the dog? Try a chicken wing, neck or whole frame. It's what your dog wants...just ask mine.

IMO it's not OK to bath a dog with the hose; for one thing the water is just too cold. Another is that it's more difficult to control the water pressure and another is the dog may develop a phobia about hoses. I always bath a new arrival ASAP. Small dogs get done in the laundry tub, big dogs in the bath. I use a shower hose attached to the tap. Warm water. Good quality shampoo. Introduce the dog to the water slowly. Make it positive by giving treats and telling the dog that it's a good dog!

Why not train your pup to a litter tray? It's basically the same idea as using puppy pads but you put a pad into a litter tray. Once the pup is used to going in the tray, replace the pads with litter, or use litter AND a pad until the pup is used to it. I have issues with my tiny dog regressing in her toilet training. She was great for a long while, but with a foster dog ATM, Molly has 'forgotten' that the toilet is outside. ATM I have pads down and an empty litter tray beside the padded area. This is so she will associate the tray with her toilet spot so that it makes it easier to introduce the tray next week. I've only been doing this since Wednesday and so far, so good. Give it a try - much cheaper than the dog loos I've seen.