leopuppy04

Thanks everyone for their advice. I thought i'll go the 'natural' way instead and Leo is now on fish oil - I can see it helping already, but not sure if it is a good thing or not as he thinks that since he is feeling better, he *can* chase Kinta around the yard all day and 'kangaroo box' - For the vets, chiros etc that ask us to keep dogs quiet - it's harder than it seems !

That looks really cool! Thanks Harminee!

Not sure how good photoshop really is - but can it fix up 'glare' - the sun came out just when I took these pics feel free to fiddle - I really like the stacks, but the darned sun!!

If budget is tight but you still want to feed a reasonably good food - I would go Optimum over S/C - I had to feed Leo on about 5 cups of S/C and he was losing weight - he seemed to be pooing it all out!! I don't mind Optimum or the S/C before Dr Harry appeared on it For the premium brands - I still think there are a lot of crappy ones. I don't really like science diet or eukanuba. I do like Eagle pack and nutrience though. Good luck!

Thanks PW - how many kg's per lb? Leo is 23-24kg. I will be keeping an eye on him and keeping him pretty quiet for the next few days. I'll then take him off the asprin and give him fish oil instead - I hear this is a natural anti inflamm also. Thank you everyone for your help ETA: just did the conversion - approx 2lb per kg..... so that would make Leo close to 50lb..... They are 100mg tabs so i'll give him 1/2 a tab

seems to be around every 2-6mths. Shorter if it is a recurring injury. The chiro thinks it was just caused by being an idiot and hooning around too much! I think I can agree with that! He had popped his wrist out of joint! Silly dog! ETA: - Leo said thanks for the hugs - Kinta says - What about me

Thanks Wylie - that must be what I got confused with! I'll see if the asprin has a 'recommended dose' by weight - hopefully that will give me an indication. Chiro told me 1 tab morning n nite for 7days....

Is it safe to give dogs Asprin I just came back from the Chiro - who told me to give Leo Asprin as his leg is slightly inflamed.... but I was always told never to give your dog Asprin..... Is someone able to clear this up for me? Also - if I can't give asprin - what is a good thing to give a dog for an anti-inflamm?!

Thanks, If i could bark I'd probably think it's fun too. I'll give your suggestion a go, learning to 'stay' is going to be taught at his later obedience classes... Peanut butter kongs, he's going to get fat I'll just further add to this - when he is inside with you - do you give him time alone? Perhaps set up a crate and do the same thing - reward the quiet non-attention seeking behaviour. If you find the Kong and other interactive toys are working, then you can also build on this too - stick him out for 10 mins (of quietness) and then produce the Kong only to leave him out an extra 10mins after the kong is finished and reward still for being quiet. Never let him in/ go to him if he is making a racket! Of course - Anissa's steps need to be done first mine is just something you could build on

This behavior is kind of what I mean. Dog does it well after NRM, but not always first time (like when you really need it during a trial) I haven't found that - I hardly use a NRM unless we are still at the teaching/ training phase. Since doing the above with Leo - he will rarely (sorry - I never can say never!) drop the d/b at all - NRM or not ;)

No - I don't think they understand - which is why I think I differ in one main part here - there is a 'cue' that the wrong thing has been done - being a 'NRM'.... If my dog comes in crooked, they will get a 'nup' or 'uh uh' and I will withold the treat. If for example, they didn't sit - I will command sit again. Next time we do it - I'll go back a step, eg: come in closer for a recall/ distance work. They almost always succeed. When they do it right first time - they get big rewards, very excited handler etc... so the dog learns that it is the *best* thing to do as asked. A prime example - Leo is not the best d/b retriever, probably because I didn't know how to teach it initially - at one stage he was dropping it at my feet. When he did that - I would say 'nup' - and next time go right back to getting Leo to 'take' the d/b from my hand and 'present' to me. The next time we did a full retrieve - he would *always* present properly. So - the NRM in my mind, works and allows the dog to see that the behaviour is *never* going to secure them a reward. Although I can see how this will work with some dogs, I have never had success with it.... it has caused my dog to come in slower, either not sit, or sit out further. But I DO agree with you that if your dog comes in 'crooked' and you simply take a step back without doing anything - the dog merely waits for the 'second' signal. Again - I just NRM and we go straight back to doing another recall (maybe shorter, maybe not) - if they get it right, lots of rewards... wrong - we'll go *right* back to me showing you what a front really is (ie, me one step away and getting the dog to present properly).... I have never had a problem with this - either with my own dogs or the ones I have instructed. Or dumb handler looking at dog and pulling their shoulders back ;)..... not that I would do that ;)! I hope this makes more sense DD. As for 'guiding' - I have done this once or twice for one reason or another (can't remember now)..... lets just use an example of you asking for a stand from sit but the dog not doing so.... I find a little guidance here helps (eg: hand on stifle, ribcage)... but if the dog was coming up and standing crooked..... then the physical 'guidance' from my experience doesn't help them understand that the 'crooked' was incorrect coz after all - you did ask for stand and that is what I am doing

My dogs will occasionally charge down the yard to fence pace and bark at our neighbours dog. The BEST thing I have found I can do (thankfully - they only do this when we are home) is to 1) recall them randomly when they are in the yard but being good - they get HEAPS of treats for coming the instant they are called. This helps me coz if they do charge off I can call them back and reward that. 2) if I do as above and they turn around to go back to what they were doing (thanks for the treat mum!).... I put them in their crates for 'time out' - not really as a 'punisher' but more as a 'settle down and stop being so ridiculous'! I don't know if there is any background to this but it seems to work really well ;) ETA: does he have enough to do in the yard? I sometimes find that once training starts dogs can come a tad 'obnoxious' as their brain has been 'livened up' and they are now looking for things to do..... What do you do when he behaves in this way (barking and such?!)

I guess I kind of do, but with a key step in-between. If my dog offers me a yucky position, I simply give a NRM and ask for the position again. I do this also if they are too slow going down etc. They don't get what they want if they don't do what I want (properly and fast).... If it took me long enough to realise and someone had to say to me 'are you happy with that sit' it *is* too late, as you have already passed the point of timing etc. Alternatively - i'll give a NRM and ignore, NRM and then come back to it later... it really depends on the situation.... I tend not to use my hands unless the dog is consistently making the same error whereby i'll gently guide them into the correct position. I hope that makes sense!

What do you mean by 'scooting' back? Is it possible to slow down the speed you are luring him??

Kirty - your cats are all gorgeous! I'm a big fan of Ablett!!!

Are you able to video it so we can see? It just gets harder and harder without seeing what is happening - thats all

Tuffie toys are apparently great - www.dogtoys.com.au ummm Aussie dog toys perhaps? Orka toys are a little softer than Kong's as are Orbees....

What PAX said ^^ I find they clue on without the 'physicals' for stand as otherwise they wait for your 'hand' to contact them..... sometimes

WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Congrats! :D Could you please tell me what the jumping trial involves? Jumping trial involves a series of jumps/ tyres and tunnels set into a course (around 16 obstacles for Novice) that we have to complete under a set amount of time without doing any out of order or knocking a bar off ;) ETA- I think Gamby has an Aussie brag too! *wink wink, nudge, nudge*!!!

I totally understand Sway - and I bet you cop it a lot coz you have such big dogs :D. I must admit - Kinta sometimes has a spooky woof at the giant breeds - but never to that extent - I always bring her back under my control and pretty much tell her to get over it. NEVER would I spring a dog on anyone.... some people don't have any common sense! Good boy Smokey for just standing there with a confused look on his face ("uhh.... do you *really* want to take me on" !)

More Aussie brags for me. Went to Sunbury Agility trial on Saturday in the cold, wet and rain.... not exactly ideal conditions! I had an obnoxious dog in the AM (the word 'tunnel suck' comes to mind - he actually bypassed obstacles directly infront to get the darned tunnel!).... Last run of the day was in rain, knee deep in MUD and it was soooo cold! Result - Jumping Pass, 1st place (only dog to pass!) and our JD TITLE!!!!!!! Woohoo! What a clever boy :D Sorry - just had to brag - this makes 3 titles since March 07

:D :D OMG - that is AMAZING! Harminee - you are the best ;) I just kept going through all the pages - they are ALL fantastic! Harminee - you are SOO talented !!!! THANKS HEAPS!

I can't see anything janzmont :D

Yeah I do - I haven't read it cover to cover yet, but it is fab from what i've skimmed through Highly recommend ALL of her stuff :D

ah in that case it could have been Chase: http://www.dogzonline.com.au/breeds/profile.asp?dog=8042 her! LOL - you're game Arya!!!! Might as well row your way through heeling