leopuppy04

Interesting thought from many threads recently highlighting the importance of making yourself top dog. Do you think it necessary for ALL owners to be so concerned about keeping themselves as top do and enforcing it? Of course I don't mean to have the dog walk all over you, and yes, I do believe it important to have some 'guidelines' in the household so that the dog knows who is boss (for want of a better word) and what you say goes etc..... For example - I would certainly advocate doing everyday things such as sitting before a meal, 'asking' to come inside/ get up on the couch..... Sitting before going for a walk, give & take with toys etc..... But I don't pay attention to the fact that sometimes I step over my dog if they are in the way. I don't pay attention to the fact that at times if the dog is on their bed, they may be higher than me.... sometimes they go through the door before me etc.... How important is pack theory to you? How far do you enforce it? Or is it something that you will only pursue further if the dog starts 'pushing the wrong buttons'.... Do you believe that MOST dogs are happy to be the 'happy mediums' and there are only a small handful that want to be the absolute subordinate and absolute alpha?? ETA: Another big question - do you believe in alpha rolling??? Think it works??? To get ahead in your training do you believe that you need to make it REALLY clear to your dog who is boss (ie: you ALWAYS eating before them, they have to work for food etc) or do you think that if you have a driven dog, a good bond, good understanding of each other you'll get ahead fine?

Actually even with an aggressive dog - or one trying to climb the ranks - tug is a great game as the dog relinquishes the toy to you AND learns that you control all good things. It is a great game to play and actually asserts you as owner, not the other way around. As others have already said - your dogs will learn what and when to tug I wish my boy tugged properly ;) ETA - with each dog from now on - I will mainly be concentrating on the first 6mths on just that - tugging, playing with toys, basic obedience and social - nothing more. I inadvertently did it with Leo, started a little later with Kinta (she came home at 5mths) and so far I like the results I have! The only thing I didn't do was not tug with Leo until about 12mths and I regret it!

LOL - what type of car do you have? Don't underestimate space - I am the Queen of getting things in the car - I could fit 2 x dogs, 2 crates (1 soft, 1 trolley), show grooming box, trial bag, my chair etc... ALL into a 3dr Toyota Echo.... but if you wanted to come with me - you'd be strapped to the roof When I would even slightly glance at Kinta - she would have the last say - quiet for a second and then a 'woof' as if to say 'i'll show you'!!!! A trolley is the best investment i've made yet ;)

Hmm.... this sounds familiar! Take one out and the other chucks a hissy!!!! How much patience do you have? Leo used to do this at agility when I would tie him up to get the equipment out.... also when I used to train with a friend and I would tie him up to help with her dogs. Kinta does this/ did this when I train Leo. I can't 'growl' at the 'barker' as the dog with me will think i'm cross at them! So I found with a bit of patience this works. 1. - you can wait it out and as soon as they are quiet reward them with a handful of treats - if you are quiet look at all the yummies that come your way! 2. - Sounds like with your dog - if you did step 1, you would be waiting forever and a day, plus coming home with a massive headache! so - this is another option - put dog in crate and cover with something that they can't see through. Leave a pigs ear/bone/toy - something nice in there..... if he is quiet, give plenty of treats etc. Go away - do a small amount of work with your dog, come back and reward etc, etc, etc..... To graduate from that - when the dog can lie there quietly for longer periods - slowly start lifting the covers up etc..... Good luck ETA: oh yeah - DONT go back to him when barking and don't even look at him - the slightest 'look' was a reward for my 2!!!

Havent heard of it either and can hardly believe it. Surely there is more important things for the RSPCA to take on rather than banning a dog sport which doesn't harm their life (probably enhances it!)..... Considering the RSPCA should be trying to encourage obedience and training, i'd hardly think it true

Fantastic SW!!!!!! Aren't Aussies the best! You didn't have the best weather for it either!!!!!! Go Blush! how clean was she by the end of it?

Brag away!!! *virtual pat on the back to you*! I remember talking to you last year when you just got her! I think it is great that you have already come so far with her! WELL DONE!!!

- Go Squeak! Sounds as though you had a successful night!!!! Sounds like you are going along the right way - play around a little with your estimation of clicking when on the pole - this one was hardest for *me* to get the timing right, but once I did, we were smooth sailing. I'll have to have another play around and see how I taught it - isn't it funny how some things become 'auto pilot' after a while! No problems - any other questions - ask away and i'll see if I can help out . I can't really say how long it took as I would bring it out, do a bit of work and then not bring it out again for a month or so (so learning disappeared to an extent ). It didn't take him long at all *once* he understood that the pole and ring had something to do with each other :rofl: Yes, when I talk to online friends about training - they'll say to me "how come you didn't do this" or "in your video you are doing this" and I am usually - oh? I didn't even realise!!!! !

Ok - I would still start with the Quoit on the pole to begin with as the hardest thing to teach the dog is to get the ring on the pole - they can't really approximate that or get to that stage without starting at the end goal - remember backchaining - so you are starting at the end with the quoit on the pole. If she picks up the pole - use a NRM (no reward marker) and take it back off her - if that doesn't work, end the session for 30secs or so..... is she actually doing it to *try* and get a reward? Getting them to 'play' with the ring is easy - we need them to understand that they need to *do* something with the ring. Leo even went through a phase of 'formally' presenting me with the ring (obedience retrieve) or jumping up and trying to put it in MY mouth Does the peg come out of the base??? Mine doesn't??? The first response *should* be to remove the ring - you just need to get that click in a little earlier - I might have to go back and re-visit the starting stages ;)..... click for the interactions with the ring *on* the pole - but try and click BEFORE the ring comes off the pole..... then try and delay the click to the point where the dog is lifting it off - you click and it 'falls' on the pole..... this bit is really hard to explain - you want to reward interaction and picking up the ring, but you shortly want to graduate to the 'drop' of the ring on the pole..... Maybe i'll need to get the camera out again tonight Are you able to video it? Maybe I can help further that way??? Part 1: (*REMEMBER the click timing is Waaay out on this one!!) Part 2: ETA - I forgot to say - have the quoit base between your feet - if your dog naturally retrieves and 'drops' stuff at your feet - this makes it easier

Squeak - what have you done so far..... what reward system are you using (voice, clicker etc)..... Have you seen the vids?? Do they help??? *I'd start with the quoit on the pole first and C&T any interaction with the ring. *i'd C&T mouthing the ring, small pickups etc. *I'd then C&T picking up the ring..... *Leo then offered me a pick up and deliberate 'move' down the pole (but he hadn't taken it completely off yet).... I jackpotted that.... *I'd then click the 'drop' onto the pole (id doesn't have to be OFF the pole yet, just a downward movement) - this bit was the hardest to get the dog to understand.... *I'd then C&T the dog lifting the ring off the pole and dropping it back onto the pole (clicking the drop).... this is usually done in 'anticipation' for the food.... *Once the dog is doing the last step reliably - I would move the ring right next to the pole - the dog will lift it up and place it on the pole - I would C&T any 'drops' near the pole and jackpot if it falls onto the pole.... using Successive Approximation - I would raise the bar of difficulty quickly so we didn't get stuck on one step..... *then I gradually moved the ring further and further away from the pole..... *then I added more rings :D Hmm... CTD has taught it also - but differently I think I hope that makes sense! ETA - yes - it was all free shaped as Laffi said - oh and I got my quoit set from Toy Kingdom Laffi

They sell them at our obed club but I haven't had a good look at them yet . I have heard good things about them though

Thanks everyone Given me a starting point PF - I've been speaking to L &K's breeder (who is a groomer) and I didn't realise there were two types - definately the one with the nozzle - the force dryer not the stand one

Hi Guys, I was wondering - what type of Dryer would you recommend for 'private' use - I want one with enough power to wash 2 Aussies, have enough force and power to also 'set' the hair a little, but obviously don't have $1500 to buy the top of the range ones.. Where would I find one from and what price would I be looking at??? Even better - anyone have any 2nd hand ones going???

YES! When I first started agility with my boy - he was a holy terror - barking, lunging, not paying attention and just being plain silly!!! I felt so inferior that I wondered 'how' this could be fun - but I am glad I persisted as it *is* fun now . I've come across a lot of trainers that are abrupt saying - 'your dog needs this' or 'your dog needs that'... likewise I was told off for telling my dog off for breaking his sit.... I asked him to sit when I filled out some forms and he kept pulling me to say hi to other dogs - he *knows* this is unacceptable, but I was told that I shouldn't tell him off due to different circumstance etc. Yes, I agree with that 'wholeheartedly' - but if my dog is being a complete git and has 'crossed the line' I will proceed to tell him what I think of it I guess this has helped me a little in terms of instructing to others. I am mindful of how it feels to feel like you are getting nowhere or having a dog that is not co-operating.... so I will never say 'you haven't done enough work' or 'you are doing it wrong'..... I usually phrase it such as 'next time... 'this' may help you get your dog to respond faster'... 'this is a different environment for your dog.... perhaps you need to lower the bar a little to allow it success'.... I try my *hardest* to always make 'constructive criticism' and not as though the handler is 'stuffing the dog up'.... likewise, I did come down hard on my class on sunday and tell them that they really need to work on their 'sits' and 'drops' But, from your instructors point of view - it is hard to see 'everyone' in the class so we may miss something you did.... but we try ;). I try and run my class the same as I train dogs - 10 positives for every negative But yes, I have been in your position before and just felt down right disheartened after a training session

Yay - go Aniken - glad to hear he is settling in well

Well done BC!!!!! Like I said - there must have been some great work with those fantastic scores!!!!! I can see you rivaling me with your Aussie - and I already know who will win..... and it won't be ME! ;)

LOL - Completely forgot about this thread Cosmo till you 'bumped' it! I think in future i'm going to PM you with my thoughts and get you to start a thread - your questions were ones that I was trying to ask in a less-articulate way :p In the way that i'm thinking - no, I don't think so.... Just in terms of them being particularly 'sensitive' to their handler and their interpretation of their signals/ communication etc. Sometimes I think yes, other times no. I guess at always "it depends on the circumstance and dog" Could be.... I think this is a definate possibility for some dogs I think this can be a key factor. They may have the 'drive' to do it, but not strong enough to overcome a mild 'correction' whether it was intended or not . On the other side of the scale, there are dogs that are SO driven, you could correct till blue in the face and the dog couldn't care less as the 'wrong' thing is far more rewarding If anything - this thread has pointed out that there are multiple types of 'sensitive' dogs. For instance, I consider Leo to be a 'sensitive' dog. He is an extremely confident dog and in any 'regular' circumstance, not much phases him. I also don't think i've sensitised him to anything in particular during training. He is also a confident, happy and driven worker..... but as soon as he is 'uncertain' in anything his drive plummets and enthusiasm curbs a little. To me it is part 'concentration' (no one can keep up enthusiasm and drive while they are 'thinking' through something new) as when he 'knows' what he is doing, he is back to the eager, confident worker. But, change the circumstance a little and I have to be very careful. He is also very 'sensitive' to changes in signals etc.... if I change it a little, he may do it 'correctly' but perhaps a little uncertain as he is not sure and doesn't want to make fault. He is 'sensitive' to my moods. If I *ever* should decide to train in the wrong mood, I will get NOTHING out of him...... If I correct to harshly or wrongly misinterpret 'obnoxious behaviour' instead of 'uncertainty' we'll end up further behind in our training than when we started .... If I am particularly nervous, he can be a bit 'worried' too...... so sure - most of these are probably 'training/ handler errors', but some dogs can ride through those and the handler won't even know they are giving their dogs 10 different signals for 'sit' Then of course you have the truly 'sensitive' dogs who are sensitive by nature and anything 'out of place' can make them a little nervy....... these dogs to me is probably more 'genetic' or lack of social as a youngster...... sometimes, it is just them. Funny you mention that - I wonder how many dogs have realised that 'cowering' has resulted in the punishment being a little 'kinder'??? Hmm - I do think that there *are* dogs that are naturally sensitive fo sure. I do think that there are dogs sensitive to a 'correction' and can send your training backward..... Interesting.... As for aloof - that is a *completely* different ball game IMO......

What can I say - I have a few tricks up my sleeve ;)

congrats Capanash! I heard of a lot of good scores coming about at obedience today - well done! I can't believe you got 89 and only 4th place! Must have been some good dogs out!

haha - but you guys had a sh*tty trainer?!?!?! Ness - more of us down here than in SA

ok - finally got to watch it.... sorry - I couldn't concentrate on account of the SPEED that tail was going - I was sure he was going to take off any second :D :D ;) ;) He looks great DD! I absolutely the enthusiasm. Pointers? I'm with Ness - his forging a little and of course (as you already said) his turns are a little wide..... keep the treat at your knee and that should make em nice and tight.... I am sure you already know -but his drop was a little crooked too His halts are perfect! Great attention and nice and speedy! Soo.... when do we see you around the trial rings, huh, huh?!?! You've made me all motivated to video mine now too - might con someone in for it tomorrow

have you tried a scrunchie over his muzzle?!?!?!

Awww shucks - thanks Arya ..... But I still beg to differ! I have a good dog with a handler who doesn't know how to walk straight oh - and flicks her arm when she is pointing at obstacles for agility - it is a wonder the dog can do *anything*!

;) doesn't help when the OP forgets what point she was trying to get at Ok - so what of the type of dog that tends to 'tiptoe' around the exercises when the handler is confused.... is it sensitive to how the handler is feeling or is it just something that all dogs do??? ROM: I *think* you are on the right track.... and I *think* I have completely lost the plot Ok - so for my examples, the consensus tends to be 'confusion'..... so.... what would define a truly sensitive dog??

OK - I have edited my above post and utterly confused myself..... what was I asking again?!?! I think you understand what I mean though. Ok - in response to the above quote - what do you mean by handler error - the handler giving the wrong signal or not being 'assertive' enough to give the dog confidence in doing what it should do????