leopuppy04

haha - I'll be glad to oblige pappy love :D

yup - that's why we've been absentee's and I've been having ants in my pants about getting back int he ring Poor Leo doesn't know what to think of them :D

LOL huski - well we wanted a blue merle boy - so we may have to re-think our steps I love them all at the moment, will wait and see how their personalities develop :D

I am very pleased to announce the safe arrival of our Australian Shepherd litter who were delivered via C-section on Wednesday 8th April. This is our first litter for all concerned (Kinta and myself ) and she has presented us with 6 beautiful babies - 5 girls and 1 boy. We have: 3 black tri girls 2 blue merle girls 1 black tri boy. I am just so happy that everyone is healthy and happy with all the pregnancy issues (and then needing a c-sect) this has not exactly been the 'best' introduction to breeding... but hey, that's life Kinta is a wonderful mum - she has taken to her new role like a duck to water ;) and of course photos (sorry they aren't the best -it's hard to take pics, they wiggle so much!): black tri boy: black girl 1: blue girl 1: \ blue girl 2: black girl 2: black girl 3: :D

Wow congrats everyone ;) I miss trialling

I have no idea what to do for this moth's challenge! I'm not creative like you lot Here's my contribution as I think I'll be doing more of a diary (for obvious reasons) than a mundane 'daily' shot..... Waiting..... (and a little over it)

dog walk they must touch the colours, A frame they don't

Agree with the others about ignoring what you don't want. Try a No reward marker such as no, nup or something... to tell him to try again. I think it sounds like he loves free shaping - so I would definitely try and channel it :rolleyes: As per usual, I'm with Laffi :rolleyes: I use free shaping a lot and I do find that these types of behaviours are very strong. Have you put a cue on the behaviours you are asking for?

Y for yellow: diesel dog those shots are amazing!

ugh - I'm really stuck for inspiration for x, y & z. Naturally the more you think about it the harder it becomes here is my Z for Zen: At a stretch X for Xpecting..

I think it's coz we are usually too slow with the clicker and end up clicking the wrong behaviour

Kavik that is a fun game - restraining them then letting them go I also think it's good to have a variety of rewards - you, toys, food etc. That way your dog never knows what's coming and you can use yourself as a reinforcer in the ring

yup - definitely agree with competition (plus it's a good excuse to have more than one dog

I’ve noticed, as I have become more involved in training in general that many people have difficulty with their dogs drive levels and getting it to a point where they feel happy. Particularly in the obedience and agility circuits. Most of us see these really speedy border collies, kelpies and such who will do absolutely anything for a toy or just to see the inside of an agility circuit. Let me tell you – neither of my dogs are like that, both are very soft when it comes to training and I’ve had to put a lot of continual sweat and time into increasing their drive…. Even to a point where some people still look at me and go ‘meh – that’s nothing’ . I thought it might be a good idea to start a thread on how and what people have used to increase their dogs drive for their chosen sport. It doesn’t have to be all of these fan-dangled toys that you can now buy (read: Clean Run!) but it can just be the simple way that you interact with your dog. Often when someone tells me ‘my dogs don’t play with toys’ or ‘they don’t like food’ it is because they (IMO) haven’t tried hard enough to find what they do like, or have some loophole in their training. I don’t think anyone is to blame, as I am SURE that we have all been there, and all made the same mistakes. I am sure I’ve made more than enough mistakes to fill a whole shipment container or two. While your dog may not become that super fast Border Collie, we can make them LOVE working for us and also for that reward at the end. Basically we can make them the best that they can be and have fun while doing so. If you think your breed isn’t suited, all you have to do is search youtube or the internet and see just how many different breeds have excelled in their sports. I’ll wager it’s the dedication of their handler and their ability to understand training that has given them these results. Now I am by NO means an expert…. Frankly, I think my dogs suck eggs at obedience and agility compared to most others…. But I thought I might just share some things that I have done (and encourage others to do the same also) about what I’ve done to increase their drive. With food – I have first of all tried to make it more enticing by using different types of food. I know most of you on here are already aware of that and trying that. Foods such as sausage, hot dog, cheese, chicken chunkers, devon, cooked chicken, raw meat etc are all big favourites. Second I vary the rewards – if I know that they love a few of these food types, don’t always give them chicken as eventually they will get sick of this too. I usually go on a shopping spree (haha I can’t believe I just called shopping for my dogs’ treats a shopping spree ) and buy up all of their favourites. Spend an afternoon infront of the tele cutting them all up and putting them into snap lock bags. Freeze them and they are ready to go . The dogs never know what type of treat they are getting when we are out training . If your dog is particularly finicky – try hand feeding their food – 5-10 bits of kibble by hand before they get the food bowl. Gradually work this up to asking for simple behaviours such as a basic nose touch, before dinner. If they don’t eat it in 10mins, take it away and don’t offer anything else. Clicker training here can really help also. I find because the clicker becomes a conditioned response, the value of the food drastically increases. Change the way you deliver the food – put the food in your pockets, on the bench, in a container, in your mouth (sorry, can’t do this one myself!) and spit it out at all angles. Sometimes feed the dog in position, but also throw the food also (just make sure your dog can see it). Play the 2 food game too. It’s simple – throw food one way, then throw food the other way – playing ‘chase the bikkie’ – again food has to be easy to see, but it gives a different value to the food. This is great training for one jump stuff, recalls and dumbell training. Jackpot containers are a biggie for me too – I have taught my dogs to chase the jackpot container and I’ll rip it open and give them a treat. The great benefit of this is that after doing some agility, I can throw the container at the end of the sequence and the dogs will race after it. I will get REALLY excited talking to them the whole time and then give them every bit in the container (it could be 2 pieces of food for all they care). Teach a self-rewarding behaviour. I’ve taught my dogs both to target and spin, jump up on me – all of which are really good ways to revv them up before a run. This can also turn into a reward in the middle of the ring because it has become self-rewarding in itself. Ok – now for toys. Keep your sessions really short, and if your dog is a softie – let them win a lot. I know it hurts, but don’t worry if they bite/ scratch you in the excitement…. This is a GOOD thing because it means they want the toy Hide the toy behind your back, bring it out, wiggle it and whip it away again just before the dog gets it. Don’t get them too frustrated though as they’ll just give up – let them win it and before they even tug on it let them win. The BIGGEST thing for me is not to snatch it back from their mouth. Bring out another toy of the same value and start the game again. Sometimes dogs don’t want to play with us because we always snatch the toy back, just when the game is getting good…. So what’s the point?! Have that 2nd toy ready and keep playing with them!!! End (I know we all say it, but it can’t be said enough) BEFORE the dog gets bored!!!!!! If your dog isn’t too much of a foodie – C&T the dog for any tugs on the toy or even picking up the toy (if you are doing a retrieve). Another game I play is I let go – I tell them ‘oh you won… lucky thing’ and give them a revving up massage up and down… then I’ll start getting them really excited talking gibberish to them ‘ooh wheres the toy… ready steaddyyy’ and I’ll pick up the toy and start wiggling it again. Usually after doing this a few times, the dog will playbow and pick up the toy ready for a new game If your dog happens to pick up a toy around the house – I always make a big fuss and begin a short game – ‘oh aren’t you clever! What have you got etc,etc’… Remember that every time you go to a new environment, the dog may be too distracted to play. Try and engage in a game initially, then put the toy away and don’t bring it out again – use another form of a reward instead. We never want to give the dog the opportunity to walk away from the toy. One thing that I have found really helpful is to bring a whole bag full of toys. For example, this morning I had a ball and a tug in my pocket. The dog always looks surprised at what you whip out – because they never know what to expect. Low and behold when I gave them a ‘jackpot’ and told them to go back to their bag there was ANOTHER toy in there …. What fun! Keeping the anticipation of what you have in your ‘goodie bag’ really helps keep motivation and drive up. The other most important thing is your placement of reward. Don’t forget to reward your dog appropriately when they get something right! You can always finish the rest of the exercise or course later, but how is the dog to know that the behaviour it just did was correct if we don’t stop mid – course and reward. For a dog that is lacking a bit in drive and confidence, this will make a huge difference. Like I said – I don’t consider myself anything else than someone who has used a variety of methods to increase their dogs drive and naturally these are just a few. They aren’t your super fast dogs and sometimes leave much to be desired… but I’m proud of them and we have fun with what we do. Am looking forward to other people’s suggestions

Hi Heidii – I don’t think she would have lured the dog. Luring the dog would be showing the dog the food before it goes into the weaves and pulling it through the weaves with the food. Creates a very slow process. SG might be using a very effective placement of reward which may look like luring . I haven’t seen the DVD yet so can’t comment on that. Again – not sure about the release word, but I think SG uses a “readyyyy set GO” to get the dogs revved up to go into the poles. She doesn’t use the actual cue for the obstacle though until the dog is really consistent with it’s behaviour. Again – haven’t seen the DVD yet More info on what you have been training and where you’re at? Sometimes the weaves can be really hard in terms of getting and nailing an entry from all angles (we’ve gone back to practicing this!) Maybe try having the poles wider, or if he’s popping out at the last two, making just the last two wider can also help. As for the not driving through – that can come with 2 things – the first being confidence… if he’s still a little confused (sounds like he might be) then that will affect his drive. Secondly if he isn’t showing great interest in toys, then we need to build up the toy drive first, or do REALLY short sessions when he really wants the toy. Alternatively, have you thought of using food in a more ‘toy orientated sense’?! Have a think about what you can do by using food as a toy more – this will do two things – increase toy drive, increase drive in general and also get that faster response by making food that little bit more exciting.

I tried that and it wouldn't work :D I would twist and it would just end up in my hand again!!! Yep, same deal at my local bunnings - now $26. LP - You are not silly. I don't worry about those stupid spiral things, they are useless and a pain to put on, IMHO. I use cable ties to hold the sides together, so much quicker and easier. Might use the cable ties - I got the same tub 200 for $3 Ocean Aussie - I bought some star pickets and tied *them* (after they were hammered into the ground of course) at regular intervals around the pen... works a treat

Ok this is a silly question How do you get those spiral attachments on!?!?! I can't do it am I silly or what?!!?

what exactly do you mean Jules?! Distance or sending a dog over the obstacle from anywhere???

wooty woot!!! well done everyone!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yep have an i-sqeak in all my pockets - play with the dog and then leave the current i-sqeak on the floor and start heeling again. This acts as a distraction and you can either release the dog to get it when you reward or produce another one from your pocket. Awesome That's what I've been doing and it's really helped improve heelwork :D Even had treat containers, tuggy toys, pigs ears etc all scattered around and toys in my pocket.... they absolutely loved it and heeled around thinking "What am I going to get next?!!?!?" It's very amusing when they see something on the floor and press harder against your leg as if to say "OMG - did you SEEE that thingy on the ground mum?! See - I didn't even LOOK "

Thanks for these suggestions - they are awesome!!!!!! I was just trying to think of some new heeling games to play with my crew :cool:. Ptolomy - how do you use more than one squeaker? Do you have on in each pocket, play the 2 toy game or is there a special game you play that utilises both?! All geared up to do more heeling with the fatty now

@ ptolomy can't wait Laffi - take your time, we can wait LOL 4paws - can you imagine... trying to get the dogs to work when they all have i-squeak balls (and with the amount we ordered, there WOULD be enough for each dog) :p

H for hydrate: U for unique Q for quaint O for Original J for just 'right' Thanks Bindi!!! Still thinking of ideas for the last few x y and z are going to be hard *rubs chin thinking*

Stage 3 from me :rolleyes:. Am quite happy with some of these P for Princess G for Green C for cats eyes I for investigate N for new life M for Memories R for raindrops D for Daring K for kitty cat I have more - but not sure what to call them :rolleyes:

NC - up to you! Leo did the same when he got his CCD - so we did Knox as a 'stress free' trial I think we ended up with 97