leopuppy04

Hi All, I'm looking at getting a puppy toward the end of the year. I was wondering, where can I get a good quality, but cheaper than what they sell in pet stores: Kennels, Crates and a large puppy pen??? Any ideas? Also I already have a dog and I was wondering if I should get a larger crate (my current one is 36") so that when I go out to shows/obedience etc I can put both dogs into the new crate with ease????

These are great responses guys !!! I think it is safe to say we all own very spoilt doggies!!!!! Ah the wonderful world of doggy sports..... problem is there is far to much to choose from!

Hi All, Just thought i'd start a new thread to see what everyones favourite 'doggy sport' that they do with their dog and why? Also, what is the best trick you have taught your dog? How did you teach this?? What is your primary method of training? Just for some fun!!! My Answers: Favourite Sport - Agility - its fast paced, the dogs love it and it is just tonns of fun!! I think I love it more than my dog!!!!!!!!! Best trick - either getting Leo to 'cover his eyes' or to get a drink from the fridge. If anyone knows how to get Leo to HOLD his paw on his nose while 'covering his eyes' i'd love to hear it! I mainly use a 'clicker' or 'yes'. I used to do a lot of luring but now am trying a hand at 'shaping' and 'capturing'. I think we may actually be getting somewhere now!

What a shame that people have been experiencing this at training. At some clubs you are going to without doubt come across it and it is such a shame. Particularly with problem dogs. I guess the issue is (and not this particular instructor, they were just downright rude!) is to constructively comment on a dogs behaviour. I have come across a few handlers that have dogs that they have difficulty handling or are disrupting the class simply by the way they are positioned (two boisterous puppies next to each other). Sometimes I have found that some people don't take well to advice no matter how it is given and this is one of the things I love about my club (having just finished the instructors course) as this is one of the main things we focus on - trying to offer advice in a 'positive' manner. Having said that - when I asked to enter into the trialling class with my dog, I was told I wasn't allowed to a few times, one coz of his age and 2 coz he hadn't done the highest obedience class yet. When I explained to them that my instructor (knowing full well I wanted to trial) told me to head straight to the trial ring, they asessed me - we passed with flying colours and I think they were impressed with his work ethic. The difference was between 'play' and 'work' mode! I think Petmezz can relate to this *g*! Having said that they were apologetic and told me that they were inundated with people asking to trial that were clearly not ready. I understood their point of view, but the biggest thing an instructor needs to learn is how to offer 'advice' without seeming to be critical and putting the handler down. I mean - we offer positive training for our dogs, why not reinforce it for the handlers too!

Hi Gamby, I've been naughty and haven't read all the posts so my apologies if i'm doubling up! As for heeling normally - I assume that Gambit is 'food motivated' *g* but this can also work with toys. Start right back at the start (don't worry, it won't take you long to get back again), and heel for 1 step and if his attention is on you reward by throwing the food to your left. Then walk 2 steps, reward (no need to get him to sit again), 3 steps reward etc,etc. Continue this until you can walk approx 100paces. If you lose Gambits attention - go back to the beginning (ie: if you loose his attention at 15paces, go back to 10 - not 0!). This really helped with my boy, as well as doing static pos and getting him to maintain position. My problem is the lead, simply coz I don't train with it *g*! As for the fig. 8 - find a couple of football posts and 'play motorbikes'... hehe it is a great game! When you go around the pole, use your shoulders to bring the dog around, without looking at him. so if you are going around (dog on outside) bring your left shoulder around as though you were riding a motorbike (best description i've ever heard), likewise going around with dog on inside, drop your left shoulder and bring your right shoulder around. When you come out of it, toss some food infront of you. You can make it into a game if you like, particularly for the outside as it makes the dog want to 'beat' you round. I then run to the next pole (sometimes I go normal pace, but dog must always maintain contact and pos.) and do either inside/outside. Found it really worked for me, and Leo loves the game. He also loves heeling a lot more now too - i've just gotta remember to keep the 'trial' ring fun!!!! hehe - darn nerves!

OMG - that is the cutest photo ever!!!!! What lines is this gorgeous dog from????????? I think i'm in love

good luck to the OP with helping their lab. I'm not a lab owner but boy, I love hearing of their antics :rotfl:!!!! Agreed with the person who said go and get the book "marley and me"!!!! Then you'll really see what a naughty lab can do! to add to the posts already - rather than simply have the toys thrown around the yard - rotate them - about 3 a day (ie: have 3 out and rotate 1-3 each day. also - take up the sandpit idea - boy to the labs love it - especially if you get 2 clam shells and fill one with water and the other with sand! In the sand one - bury the toys in there - that will get the lab to dig out their toys and then run around like a nutter when they have found it! Remove anything that could possibly be puppy fun and of course as others have mentioned - off leash running and obedience. For the walks - I find for young dogs - two shorter walks work better - one in the morning b4 work (make that the tiring one - off leash run maybe? as they are more likely to sleep while you are at work) and again when you come home. At least that gets rid of some pent up energy!

Can I take up the offer of additional info via PM as well? Would be highly appreciated! I agree with you about starting out with positives...and also I would only refer to corrections and adversives if it became apparent that they were needed, hope my post above didn't give the impression that I would employ the techniques without giving them or the nature of the dog in question careful consideration. No not at all - I just wanted you to know what angle of training I was coming from 'before' and 'after'. By all means PM me - I won't bite

Hi Squeak, I'm finishing my NDTF course (same one as Petmezz). Here is my story: If there is such a thing, I consider myself a "positive trainer" or rather "motivational trainer". I like to use the more positive methods first before using any other method. When teaching I prefer to lure a dog and rather than 'correcting' i'd rather teach an alternate behaviour etc. That is just my way of teaching dogs and I prefer it. So, you would think this would lean me toward the Delta course, and it did. I chose the NDTF course however simply because I didn't want to say to people I don't use correction chains/ compulsion/ prong collars/ shock collars/ punishment (ok, you get the idea ) because they're cruel or because no one uses them any more, I wanted to tell them WHY I don't use them and back it up with personal experience. The other reason being that if I wanted to be listed as a Delta trainer, I have heard that you are only allowed to use positive methods - that means absolutely NO corrections of any kind. Sure, it will be my last port of call, but if you asked me to train a dog and It was either corrections or PTS, I wouldn't hesitate in using it. I like the fact that NDTF teaches you all of the methods you could use (in detail - a workshop for each). Sure, I walked into the correction chain workshop with a negative attitude. Did I walk out a converted correction chain trainer? Nope. I still stand by my reasons for training the way I do. BUT I did walk out wiser as to why I choose my methods as well as having a firm belief that I will use them, without question as a last resort. They are not cruel, but I simply believe that for an average handler, they do require a lot of skill (anyone who has seen me use them will know that I muck up a lot of the time!). Anyways i'm sure you didn't want to spark a debate about this and neither do I *g*! I've enjoyed the NDTF course and I think that it is a wiser choice to start with this course first. I still might go and do the Delta course later down the track. The lecturers will not force their methods onto you, they do explain all methods and accept whichever decision you choose to train, if it works *g*. I guess the benefit is that you can talk to specific trainers and ask "why don't you train this way" and most of them would have tried all of the methods. I agree with Herr Rottweiler - a lot of the reasons specific training tools have been banned is simply because of the emotive language used behind peoples arguments, not by scientific evidence. They only took one side of the story. Having said that, I don't particularly like them - but that is just personal preference isn't it Anyways squeak, I would recommend to do NDTF first, if you want more info, PM me, i'd be more than happy to tell you what else I felt about the course - positives and negatives

12mths is fine so long as you don't get them to jump the full heights or do the dog walk/A frame etc. what is left you ask? hehe - they can jump the jumps on the lowest, do the contacts (just not the full obstacle) and of course lots of tunnels!!!!! I find that this will be fine. Most of their serious growing is finished, but just make sure your instructors know how old they are They are soooo cute by the way!!!!!!! Go you for promoting staffys as how they should be - little cuddlebugs that love everyone (and i've met a lot that love every dog too with the little tails hitting their sides when they see one)!

Hey Erny, Thanks for your help too - this should help Leo and myself also . gsdog2 - tell me how you go - i'd like to hear your trouble shooting and success as my problem is pretty much identical to yours!!!! I'm out to practice tomorrow with another 2 dogs in a lineup to sort of mimic the trial ring a little more. It seems to be the lineup that makes my dog go down as when there isn't one, he tends to sit as i've proofed it just by having him hold his sit everywhere rather than what I used to do - drop him everywhere - that helped too . GOOD LUCK! Maybe i'll see you around the rings one day. Oh another thing - if your trainer is willing - practice some sit stays with the dogs in the line up - sit/drop/drop/sit/sit/sit etc. This is really good for proofing the sit-stays as i've noticed a few dogs do 'sympathy' drops in the sit-stays simply because the others around it have dropped also.

I have the same problem!!!!!!! I need ideas - this was why we NQ'd our first trial and as the saying goes 'he does it perfectly at home', does it perfectly outside of the ring, with lots of distractions, but I honestly don't know how to fix it. gsdog2 - do you go back and reward often? Have you tried reducing it to say a 10-30 sec stay so that you can reward successes?

I use 'final touch' but have used lusture aid before. You can still smell it on him about 1wk after putting it on, but the strong scent (not overpowering) lasts for about 1day. I like the idea of doing a 50/50 with water. I only use it coz my dog goes to nursing homes and I don't think they like the smell of a muddy dog and I don't want to wash him every week . When I get a show dog i'd use it on that too, but I do LOVE the smell LOL

Did Gambit get a pass????? Or better yet, his title?????

as what is always said - Quality over quantity. If your dog has 'special' time with you regardless of the amount of work you dog, then I think you have a happy dog. shoemonster - I agree - sometimes I feel incredibly judged because my dog is 'outdoors' 90% of the time and I work. I judge it by his attitude and anyone who knows me knows that I would go to the ends of the earth with my animals and I think the feeling is mutual . Caninecoach - you have a really good way of saying the things that I was thinking! lol - stole the thoughts from my brain also :p. dogmad - I really think that the work you are doing with foster dogs admirable, but you must also admit that these dogs can come from unknown pasts which could make them more anxious or whatever. Or you may just have the more 'active' ones and hence why they are being rehomed. Perhaps that is why these dogs played up. i'd love to get into foster work one day, when I have more time :p. I too have 2 dogs that live on adjoining properties to me, they bark all the time and I rarely see them taken for walks. as for training - forget it . Somehow when I look at others, I don't feel as though i'm a bad owner or anything like that when I look at the amount of attention my dog gets as well as his pysical/mental development. JMHO.

:p That was my point but you worded it much better than I did! :p You said that PERFECTLY! If the person is going to be a good owner for the pup surely the breeder will see that from the word go. If they are not going to treat the pup well and give it the stimulation it needs again, the breeder will know. Most of these owners get their dogs not from breeders but from the trading post/ pet shops/ shelters where people have not advised them about their type of dog properly.

And how much warmer will the puppy be in a bathroom or laundry than outside? Bathrooms and laundries are the coldest rooms in the house and the puppy will still be alone. And what about boredom? A puppy kept outside will get a lot more stimulation and will be much happier than a puppy locked in one small room for eight hours a day. I think people tend to forget that dogs are animals. I agree that leaving a single puppy outside while one's at work isn't the ideal situation, but it's infinitely preferable to leaving it confined in a crate or a room. Miranda - I agree. I had my pup outside from 10wks of age (when I got him). I couldn't take time off as I was a uni student but I worked out a program with my mum who would be home most of the morning and then go out to work in the arvo, leaving the pup alone for no more than 3-4 hrs. It will be pretty much the same with my next pup only i'm working now. My question is that what about for those that live alone and not near work? Here is the clincher as well about my dog - he isn't allowed inside (unless on a mat - and not every day) - so the 'poor' puppy you may say was left out from day 1. does it mean that he has any ill effects from that? Of course not. he is a really well adjusted pup with no seperation anxiety or anything like that. Really adaptable. does it mean that with him being outdoors that he lacks attention and company - nope. He is the most spoilt dog around :p. If people are willing to put in the extra time for a pup outside their work hours, then I don't see the issue. If the pup isn't going to be a 'backyard ornament' (no mine isn't) but part of the family, then where is the issue? I honestly believe that allowing your dog to spend that time away from you while at work and implementing it from the start will help immensely with independence training. The dog is learning that it is ok to spend time alone from the start. Of course, I believe that this shouldn't be sprung on the dog ie: buy the dog sunday afternoon and go to work on monday- rather spend a week or so with people coming in and out of the house at various times of the day and gradually reducing the frequency of 'visitors'. As for neighbours or anyone like that doing the visits, I don't see what the difference is - at least the dog is getting its meals and some attention. But we need to face the fact that some people work throughout the day but would still make great home for puppies. As for puppies being able to cope outside - if there is enough shelter and 'warm' areas I don't see why not. But I think the smaller breeds would require more caution.

if I get a new pup at 8 weeks into the house I take time off and acclimatise them and over time leave them for short periods then longer periods - but I am talking over the ensuing 3 - 4 weeks and mine have other dogs for company. How long do you take off work for a new pup???? Just curious.

Can someone plz explain in detail about this drive training? Is it about using a toy and working with the dogs drive to get it to do obedience? So rather than using food your dog works to the game with the toy at the end? What are the specifics of this training? Does it involve corrections, or just based on the toy itself? I'm just curious thats all.....

At our obedience club it is $55 per year and $30 after that - no additional costs per week. This includes obedience through to trialling level (and 1:1 trialling coaching each week - if you get your name on the board quick enough!), puppy preschool, a really well put together puppy class, agility and flyball. I can't do agility there though, so my agility club is $70 per year (I think, maybe more) and $5 per class attended. I think it is kinda expensive, particularly when I add in my petrol costs, but I love the club and it only offers agility which means it is kinda specialised in what they offer. Can't fault either club!

I don't think there will be a problem, but I guess it depends on the breed. It shouldn't matter with the larger breeds but obviously if it was a Pom or something, thats different. It's hard with a small pup and for someone working all day as if you keep it inside - where with puppy toilet? I dunno, but honestly in my limited experience having a pup outside it is no problem, but I live in suburbia and my youngest pup has only been 10wks not 8. When I get my next one i'm going to try and take a wk or 2 off to work with the pup also, so I guess that is the best help I can give :rolleyes:

Thanks everyone for their replies. Yeah I'm worried about them bonding more to each other than to me, but also I don't want them to hate being left alone without the other. I want them to be independent enough that they won't fuss when the other is gone. Like another person said, i'll do some 1:1 training and walks etc. Thanks guys, i'll tell you how it goes! amanda