leopuppy04

Shoey, stop writing interesting threads so that I can get back to work - there are too many good threads going on at the moment that I want to participate in :rolleyes: in answer to your question - i'd leave them be unless they get really snitchy. I find dogs can be dominant for different things. Kinta is dominant about who gets through doors first and about greeting me (we areworking on fixing *that* !). Leo is dominant about toys and greeting strangers (both say ..... no, pat ME!). Neither are overly dominant dogs, both fairly neutral. They can switch food etc, but I haven't officially tested this with fresh bones as Leo tends to finish before Kinta, and knowing him, he'd try and take it. To keep minimal fuss about sharing food, they need to feel confident that it isn't going to be 'stolen' IMO.... but one day when i'm home and they are having a bone/kong I will have the two out together. They are fine with sharing treatballs and kongs. The only thing that I recommend that you *do* do is that if one of them gets overly dominant/snitchy BOTH get isolated. so say for example, I have had to do this a few times with my two over toys/ food. When Leo gets a little too snitchy about it i'll growl and say "HEY" and then remove the toy. Depending how bad the 'telling off' was (just a growl or a snarl or whatever) I may also give them time out in their crates.... nb: they spend so many 'good times' in their crates that I don't think it affects their crate training at all . I try not to be too growly when I put them away. Hope that helps ETA - in terms of who gets fed first and all that jargon - I don't really use it unless I have a 'dominance issue' between two dogs .

so long as you are not saying it every 5 seconds, I don't see why not Works great at building up to looong stays - say from a 1 min to a 3 min out of sight - lets them know they are still doing the right thing IMO

No I don't really think so. My guys show absolutely no sign of 'protection' and are likely to kiss my mugger! but some people spark suspicion in them and cause them to react. If you want - work on some Nothing in life is free, but I honestly don't think you really have anything to worry about - if it keeps recurring then perhaps it is an issue, but a once of..... nah!

wooohooo "it's getting hot in here....." from your description I would say that your pup simply mis-interpreted. He was unsure of the body language between the two of you. Not to mention.... have you been spending more time with him since you have split with your ex? A bigger bond can sometimes lead to the dog being more suspicious of people around. Having said that - it could have just been a 'once off'.... both of my dogs have suprised me with "barwoowwoo" to strangers when I least expect them to....

yes, that makes it so much easier to get the point across. But then I may also click my dog when he does something, yet still expect him to hold the position - not for very much though, so I guess I don't know where I stand on that one as usually if I want the dog to continue to hold the position I use my verbal "yes". But say for example, my dog does a drop, I may click when he goes down but I expect him to hold it until released...... again, not very often I do that as I usually only use the clicker for tricks, beginning training, refining training or shaping. For proofing and 'building' distance/duration I use the verbal. make sense???

I don't know if I can really help you on this one - might have to wait for the experts I have a feeling that your pup is simply mis-interpreting body language..... I know of a few people who'se dogs get inbetween them when they try and cuddle etc. The dog is also at the bottom of the pack. LOL - even Leo gets 'stressed out' when my brother comes home and we wrestle - Leo thinks that is NOT on (or maybe he wants to join in?!). sorry I can't help :0

has he met this guy before? Perhaps he was misinterpreting body language?

This is where clicker trainers begin to divert husky and by no means is one right over the other. To me a clicker is a 'marker' and doesn't always mark the 'end' of a behaviour. It means what they were doing at that 'exact' moment was correct. When I am teaching tricks, or just beginning, I don't mind if the click marks the end of behaviour, but as I get further down the track, the dog must hold until 'released' at which point I may re-introduce my verbal bridge such as 'yes'. So.... you could do this in one of 2 ways - do as oz pet rescuer says and only click at the end. You could 'remind' the dog 1/2 way through - say for example, Micha can only do a 10 second sit-stay. At 5 seconds you will say "stay" again, and then at 12 seconds return (the 'reminder' helps you add on duration). The next time you won't say the reminder until say about "8" secs.... You may decide to use your verbal bridge word and say "yes" to the dog 1/2 way through and not click until the end? Or you may decide to click 1/2 way through, return to give the food and head off again. I do a bit of 2 & 3. I will sometimes say 'yes' out with my dog so I don't need to return but the dog knows it is doing right, or I may click and then return to the dog, reward and then release for a play. I will always click when they are 'staying' at whatever distance I am at though. Hope that makes sense - there is no definitive answer - just do what you think you should in terms of what you believe the clicker should be used for

sound seems to be slower than the vid! When I did it last night - I was actually saying wait/park/yes/release when I should be It's been doing it on this one too: you can actually hear the click AFTER i've been fumbling for food (click happens when Leo jerks head up), and you can hear the scuttling of feet once his back at the quoit set

Ok - I finally uploaded the tricks - sorry about the quality and the 'out of synchness' - don't know what as happening there - was using my camera so maybe that affects it Leo waving: Leo covering his eyes Leo being shot Leo putting the quoits onto the pole (working progress, but this is the level we are at - all done by free shaping). Another shot at "bang' - I like his way of pulling himself into the proper position Some may not be ready for viewing yet.... hopefully soon

Hi guys, Its not the best vid, but I tried last night to get Leo's distance onto a video to show you what I mean. The first one is how he sometimes drops forward (usually with not that much of a step!) and the second how i'm trying to train with the 'park' command! I don't know what is going on with the vid - it wasn't easy videoing yourself, but it seems like I was telling him to do something and he had already done it which isn't the case... for some reason the voice seems to be delayed ... hence the 'wait' and i'm already out of the picture Anyway - here it is to sorta demonstrate what I was meaning. Just looking at 'training tips' for the creeping only and to know if i'm gong about it the right way as my actual 'formalities' in this vid are waaaay out of the window http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UR1edWr8nEI ETA - I just watched it again - argh it is so out of synch - it seems like I was telling Leo to "park" when he has already hit the ground and the click comes when he gets up

I like both the box and i click. the iclick doesn't get food stuck in it (LOL!) but can easily be 'clicked when you are 'playing' with the dog or if it is sitting in your pocket . The box click doesn't tend to do that, but is louder and less ergonomic . Any other questions about clickers don't be afraid to PM me if you want info! I am a BIG fan . Give it a go wagalot - I use both word and clicker - i'm trying to post vids in the video section (lots of tricks) so you'll be able to see me there using both voice and clicker . You'll also see Leo 'understand' straight away as soon as he hears the click what it means!

Simple - same way as you taught the stay. Take a very deliberate step off with your RIGHT foot - if they move "uh uh" and place Ed back. Do it again, If he doesn't move C&T. Only move the one foot as though you are going to take off and then increase it from there. He'll get the picture. Cosmolo - another reason I just thought of why I prefer to use it (other than it makes me feel more comfortable!) - I am a very clumsy person and tend to get my footwork wrong in heeling. I also get confuzzled and can sometimes mess up with commands etc (my POOR dogs!). So that is why saying Stay/wait gives them the extra confidence of what I want them to do also. sometimes in the fig 8 I have to go off on my right foot etc, and other times I just may not be thinking - so I like to give them a definate 'stay wait'......

Hey Poodle wrangler. I find that clickers sometimes help increase food motivations, so give it a go. I find that clubs aren't really pro or anti clicker training, but won't hand them out to trainers - it really is up to you as to whether or not you use it.... that said from personal experience only ;). No particular preference to brand - I think they are all the same . If you want some clicker training info - I think I have a few on my webpage (under links) if not, PM me and I can forward you some

I don't believe you! She looked amazing!!!!!!!

Ahem - I hear ya there! I had/ have the same problem. Go back to basics is the easiest way to go, from experience! And tighten up the stays by doing resistance training etc

Makes sense to me Mrs D - but that could be because that is what I do Mind you - I still test my dogs by simply saying "sit/drop/stand" and then walking off (on my right foot) and praising them when they remain where they are told :D I'm a stay/waiter and my boy knows the COP on the move. He has no issues either way. I *try* and tiime it so that my next step will be off on the right foot. He seems to know that the 'position' command over-rides the 'follow me' command.... isn't it amazing how we 'expect' the dog to understand what we are doing, when we can't even explain it to others how the dog knows what we want it to do ;)

Ness, I just saw these vids! Ness looks awesome! I thought you said she was slow in Agility? She looks pretty good to me!!!! LOL!

LOL - thanks Jesomil - He Lurves his agility - I wish I realised the tunnel was crooked the first time though as it put him off going in the second time . I was pleased that he actually did the course as opposed to running off and taking everyone elses sausages I had a good time too - as did Leo . Oooh and yes, I think he is beautiful too! Did you watch the Kelpies herding??? The next AS herding day is on the 22/4 I think - which I can't go to. Kodiak - just ring up and join in, it is designed for complete newbies (which I am!) so you will be quite safe. Either Glenn or Kate will be there to talk you through (isn't Glenn your pup's breeder? You'll be fine ). JulesP - you will be fine too - just go along and have some fun! Sheepies are great

Yep Cosmolo - I mean for 'hold' with the dumbell. I hear you - and don't get me wrong, I don't think that NOT saying a stay/wait is wrong, but perfectly feesible. I just feel in myself 'more comfortable' having said stay/wait - hence why I say it is partly for 'trainers peace of mind' to say so. I am sure that in another 10 years or less even, it will hardly be used, but I still like it . As for using the 'stay' as the same command 3 different positions - no I don't see it that way. We have first told the dog to 'sit/drop/stand' and then if we are to leave, all the stay means is 'hold that position till you hear otherwise'. Like I said, I understand why you see it as a fruitless exercise as you are probably thinking "yes, but my does DOES that from me just saying "sit/drop/stand". LOL. Having said that - despite my little problems with 'stays', I dont' link them to using stay/wait. But then, before I introduced the stay/wait command, my dogs had a very reliable static positions and would hold it with me walking circles around them etc, without moving until released.... I don't think there is any definitive answer - just another one of those 'which trainer' is right discussions.... not that there is anything wrong with discussions - I usually pick up something new in every one . As for those that think it is 'wasting' commands - do you see anything wrong with dogs having 'too many' commands?

hiya Erny. I agree with Mrs D - I think this could go round and round in circles. I partly think that it *is* for the 'trainers' benefit knowing that the dog has been told to 'stay' there etc, etc. what you describe as your dog knowing that 'drop' means stay in that position until you hear otherwise, rings true for many dogs that also have the 'stay' / 'wait' command. That is the joys of having a release command. Although, like I said earlier - I may, particularly at the beginnings of training tricks ask for a 'sit' and then 'wait and see' if they will offer me anything else - in a stay, I don't want this to happen, hence why I add the commands. I honestly do think that it helps the dog 'relax' knowing that you will return in due time... or rather what to 'expect' to a certian degree (am I going to you or are you coming to me). I know for one that both of my dogs tend to 'relax' when they know they are in a 'stay' or 'wait' rather than being a little 'antsy' in the sit/drop as they are unsure what is coming next. Question for you though - do you consider commands such as 'hold' also fruitless?

Hmmm... do you think the 'stay/wait' will affect this Cosmolo?? I think even if you just told your dog to sit/drop and exceeded their expectations (ie: dog broke) you would have the same response. Telling the dog to 'stay/wait' is not necessarily giving the dog an idea of how long away you will be - we still vary at what stage we return. How do you mean it will lead to anticipation? Perhaps for the wait, if you were always doing a recall, but usually many of us do distance signals, d/b etc, so the dog doesn't really know what it is waiting for??? Mrs D - thanks for the congrats!!

Good question Cosmolo. I am a stay/waiter and I dunno, maybe it helps me feel more confident, but I honestly feel that it *does* help the dog. My dogs have absolutely no problems holding a position until released. I do however feel that they become more confident if I tell them to "wait" while they are performing the exercise. For example, when teaching Leo to Beg, I simply added in a 'wait' as he was always coming down too soon, and he seemed to 'understand' what I wanted and was able to hold the position for much longer. It is a little hard for me to explain. I only use a stay/wait for when I am leaving the dog - I use a wait in a recall or agility exercise as they then know I am going to call them to me... I use a stay when I must return. To me, it seems to tell the dog 'what' is coming next rather than keeping them guessing. The other reason I use it is that sometimes I will ask for a 'sit' and 'wait and see' in terms of wanting them to offer me something. So I might get a wave, cover eyes, shake or whatever..... the sit allows the dog to move his paws and body so long as he remains seated.... if he is in a stay/wait, then no paw movement is allowed.... again, I think it just gets the message across to him clearer. Finally, I think it is for the handlers benefit - we feel more confident leading out after having told our dog to stay thats the best way I can answer... perhaps with a more specific question I may be able to answer better?

Yeah - the Sharpei was in our ring - It came out with a Qualie in the first round but no luck 2nd time round I think! The owner was sooo proud!1

Congrats - bad luck with the recall but it sounds like he did well for his first trial!!!