animalsluvbree

I did alot of training with him years ago when i had more time. I don't let him run up to dogs but i want him to meet other dogs, so i will let him talk on lead. I understand the risk of running up to large dogs so i am careful. He is worse on leads, i realise that, but still off lead he is will run up. He sits for dinner and when i want him to do stuff, but he does have a cheeky/naughty streak in him, he is a terrier remember lol Leadership wise - i do have leadership, but i am doing another degree and 2 jobs so time is very minimal these days. His general behaviour: nervous, anxious, has noise phobias and barks abit.. He is a lovely boy though but has his problems. He has a another dog (a sheltie) that he lives with. I did recently find out that he is starting to get night blindness.

Hi everyone, i have a 8yr old silky X terrier MN and he has the worst case of little dog syndrome. He growls at larger dogs and runs straight up to them. Tail high and straight but wagging. so how do i train this out of him? Any ideas would be helpful.

Some dogs after surgery do lose a little bit of sphincter control as oestrogen is a hormone that helps close the urethra so nothing goes up there etc. but the decrease usually isnt enough in like 99% of pups to cause a prob. With the fluids i she would have pee'd that out long ago like in a day or so... if you do look at her wee, and its really clear (ie dilute) then get a sample and take it to a vet ... hhmn not sure if i would use the frying pan after collection... tehehehe.. unfortunately for me, i have to catch it in a lttle kidney dish or container... gloves are a god sent!! But i think u just keep persisting with house training.. puppies only get control of their bladder (by their brains) at 4months old so she only really getting the hang of everything.

you poor thing, cardiomyopathy is draining... im sure the clinic i work at charges less for the 28 packet of fortekor (dont quote me but i will have a look on sunday when i am there)... but in pretty sure its alot less than $104 per packet. have a google search for a vet called Richard Malik.. he is a feline specialist but a very smart man and has been in the business for a very very long time and may be able to point you in the right direction with meds and alternatives, cheaper vets etc... good luck...

sorry i haven't heard anything.. ... doesnt it only lst for a couple of months so you need to keep getting it done? i dont know anythinga bout it, but i dont know if i would want to playing about with the hormones like that

dogs need their canines to rip thru the meat and hard food, so i would get it checked out just in case, you would rather pay say a $100 bill for a check up than a $400 bill for a dental... if you can see a hole up the middle (ie the canal) then it needs to be checked as thats where the nerve goes..

i think heartworm test first, then get onto interceptor and then use advantix - that would be your easiest bet i reckon! have fun in Qld!

just a site i found.... Ear Mites Race Foster, DVM Marty Smith, DVM Drs. Foster & Smith, Inc. There are several types of mites that can invade the ear canals of dogs, puppies, cats, and kittens. The same mite can affect both dogs and cats. In the puppy and kitten, the most common ear mite is Otodectes cynotis. It is not important in the diagnosis and treatment of ear mites to identify the exact scientific type of mite. Regardless of the exact mite species involved, we usually refer to mites of the ear canal simply as ear mites. Contrary to popular belief, however, is the fact that ear mites can live anywhere on the animal's body. How are the mites transmitted? Ear mites are extremely contagious. They can be passed from the mother animal to her offspring. Additionally, the mites are easily spread to other pets within the household including cats, dogs, rabbits, hamsters, gerbils, mice, ferrets, etc. Humans are not affected. What are the symptoms? Puppies and kittens with ear mites will scratch around their ears and/or shake their heads. The amount of scratching and shaking depends on the severity of the mite infestation. With more advanced infestation, the ear canals will bleed and either fresh or dried blood will appear inside the canal. Dried blood resembles coffee grounds. If you peer into your pet's ears and notice a build-up of a material that looks like 'coffee grounds,' then your pet probably has ear mites, although a bacterial and/or yeast infection is also a possibility. Ear mites are very common, but still serious. Left untreated, they severely damage the ear canals and eardrum and can cause permanent hearing loss. If mites spread out of the ears to other areas of the body, the animal may or may not scratch the area. What is the management? Various commercial ear preparations are available to kill the mites. These products contain an insecticide, usually pyrethrin. Ear products without an insecticide will not kill the mites. Ivermectin, fipronil (Frontline), and selamectin (Revolution) have also been used by some veterinarians. (Milbemycin (Interceptor) and Acarexx, a form of ivermectin have recently been approved for the treatment of ear mites in cats.) Depending upon the medication used, the ears may need to be treated two to four weeks until all mites are killed. As previously mentioned, many ear mites live all over the body, including the feet and tail. These areas should also be treated. Most products designed for fleas and ticks such as sprays, dips, and shampoos, which contain one of the above ingredients will be effective. Be sure to use products approved for use on dogs, and to treat the tail. This is because while sleeping, the tail is curled around the puppy's body where it lies in close contact with the ear. Because mites are very easily transferred between pets, it is best if all pets in the household receive simultaneous treatment. Most types of mites do not survive long off the pets, so the treatment of the house and yard is usually not necessary. Can I get ear mites from my pet? Ear mites are not considered to be a zoonotic disease (disease which can be transmitted from animals to humans).

although vitamins are great... just be careful! vitamin E is a fat soluble vitamin and they tend to be easily stored in the body and can then toxicity can cause a decrease in absorption of vitamin k (which is needed for blood clotting). Selenium and vit E do work hand in hand together (anti-oxidants) and both have roles in the immune system (but i dont think that means they will stop cancer). but selenium can be toxic so again just be careful. the fish oil is good for arthritis too, i am in no way meaning to scare you but i dont think you should just rely on vitamins. Have a chat to your vet and see if there are any tests you can do! and maybe both you and the vet can work out appropriate dose rates of the vitamins (and perhaps figure out which is the cheapest way) is the lump where she gets her vaccinations? as sometimes dogs get lumps at vaccination sites... or it could be lipoma.. which is a fatty deposit under the skin - what does it feel like and how big is it (in cm)? Well good luck! keep us posted... Bree

its like don't press the RED button or don't think about pink elephants.... of course you are going to come and have a look... i fell for it also!! tehehe

i would get the vet to check it over, it could be mites like BC said, and although calamine is great, it won't get rid of an infection if there is one, it will only dampen it and allow it to sit there and not clear up entirely..

thats good info, can i ask where its from? just wanna back it up and put in it my book all flea products will tell you to wait 24-48hours after washing your dog to apply the treatment as any kind of washing will strip the coat of the sebum. and if you apply right after a bath dogs and cats can get contact irritations from the liquid as it just sits there and doesn't move

epi-otic is fine to use regularly, its a vet use ear cleanser and is very gentle to use. but normally you dont clean dog's ears that regularly.... i think before you go and buy ear canker drops and everything, just double check with the vet (as they are the ones who should know and you don't want to double dose). does she have really hairy ears? sometimes they can cause the wax to clog up and stay in there as they can't get/shake the wax out...just a thought.

you are looking about between $23-$35 roughly depending on what size you get. there is a 250mL and a 1L bottle. it is good stuff though and lasts awhile... but i know what you mean when money is tight! good luck. If you have any calamine lotion you could try putting that on to soothe the skin or aloe vera. good luck

CONGRATS! well done

fleas are little sh*ts... they breed like crazy and lay their eggs everywhere and the eggs are activated by humditiy and vibrations. So with all this crazy weather we have been having this year, we have seen more fleas. Secondly if you have any wooden floors in your house, it send massive vibrations between the floor boards where the eggs are and "wakes" them up. Thirdly if there are any cats around, you will most probably get fleas. The majoirty of fleas on dogs are actually cat fleas ,yes thats right there are 2 species of fleas and cat fleas love to get on dogs. Next if you have sandy soils around/under your house, its a breeding haven for fleas. Ok i think i have talked about where fleas come from now onto products the shampoos are good for some instant relief but its good to use a shampoo that has oatmeal and aloe vera in teh skin to soothe it.. staffy's are known to have bad skin in general and usually require a little more care. The thing people often forget is that when you wash a dog you wash all that essentail oil - sebum- out of the skin and this is needed to protect the skin from the fleas and bacteria etc. It is also needed to carry the advantix or frontline around the body, so if you do wash your dog remember to wait 24-48hours BEFORE and AFTER to put the treatment on. And also if you put it straight on after a wash you can cause skin irritation cos the product just sits there and doesn't move. The capstar is a great tablet what it does is it kills all the adult fleas that are BITING - so it just gives the dog (and you) some relief from all the itching. the tablet is absorbed into the blood and the next time the flea bites and sucks up some blood it also gets the tablets which kills it. So it doesn't kill the larvae or immature fleas. so you need to use it inconjunction with the advantix etc. The advantix and frontline are all good products but the fleas get used to the one chemical and actually become immune to them, so its good to change over brands (which use different) chemicals to keep those fleas on their toes. now the bad part. at any 1 time, there is only 1% of the flea population on your dog... that means 99% are in your house!! so its not good enough to only look at the dog, you need to treat the house garden etc. ok i think i have babbled enough... i hope this helps...can any tell im a vet student! oh and flea collars dont really work - the little monsters just learn to stay away from the neck area.. hence why u see them all arund the bum and inbetween the legs (plus its much warmer there!!)

From the Plumbs Handbook of Veterinary Drugs: Meloxicam Prescriber Highlights NSAID used in dogs and cats (not presently approved); COX-2 preferential Available in as both an injectable and oral product GI adverse effects are less likely, but can occur Drug-drug interactions Uses/Indications Meloxicam is principally used for the symptomatic treatment of osteoarthritis in dogs. Short-term (single dose) use and pulse dosing in cats is also being investigated, but much less information on the use of this drug in cats is available. Pharmacokinetics In dogs, meloxicam is well absorbed after oral administration. Food does not alter absorption. Peak blood levels occur in about 7-8 hours after administration. The volume of distribution in dogs is 0.3 l/kg and about 97% is bound to plasma proteins. Meloxicam is extensively biotransformed to several different metabolites in the liver; none of these appear to have pharmacologic activity. The majority of these (and unchanged drug) are eliminated in the feces. A significant amount of enterohepatic recirculation occurs. Elimination half-life is species specific. The elimination half-life in dogs averages 24 hours (range: 12-36 hours); other species: pigs: 4 hours; horses: 3 hours; cattle: 13 hours. Contraindications/Precautions The European label states that meloxicam is contraindicated in dogs hypersensitive to it, with active GI ulceration or bleeding, impaired hepatic, cardiac or renal function and hemorrhagic disorders. The human label states that no dosage adjustment is necessary in patients with mild to moderate hepatic or renal impairment. Use extreme caution in dehydrated, hypovolemic or hypotensive animals' as there is a potential increased risk of renal toxicity developing. Client Information Shake well before using. Carefully measure dose (oral liquid); do not confuse the markings on the syringe (provided by the manufacturer) with mls or kgs. If using drops to measure dose in small dogs, do not place drops directly into dog's mouth; mix with food. Otherwise, may place oral syringe into dogs mouth or mix with food. If animal develops adverse effects, contact the veterinarian

well at the moment they are spending basically all their time with my two older dogs - a male who is 6 and a female who is 4 - i realise that ideally it would be best to train them without the distraction of the older dogs but realistically i just cant do this also these puppies have never had interactions with other dogs and need to learn socialising skills. But saying all this..for the first time tonight after a little bit of excitment/jumping everywhere all 4 dogs slept in our tv room together and were all very quite and well behaved.....i think the puppies really liked being with the family like that!

My camera is dead at the moment, but when i get a chance i will definitely put some piccies up - they are cute under all that naughtiness!!! I have been ignoring them when they nip and putting my hands up out of the way, doing all the stuff i have been taught to do but it just seems to not be sinking in... i agree that they should be trained separately and have been trying to at least walk them separately (my time constraint dont help either) and with my dogs, and i have suggested to the owners that this needs to happen also. The owners have good intentions im sure, but have no idea and i am afraid that when they do go back it will be for nothing, and i feel sorry for the dogs - as they do want direction, but have figured that has been alot easier to be naughty to get their way. The owners believe that if u have 2 dogs they should always be together and yes now they have separation anxiety!!! (to add to the list). these people will not go to puppy school - that is what i am for - they just use their money to buy what ever they want... i cant even get them to get their kids to walk the dogs.. apparently no one has time to train the dogs.. its frustrates me no end....

thanks for that tony -i am trying to be consistent and reprimand them if they are naughty (saying NO or GRRR.. seeing which one works better at the moment) - during it not after. Its just very hard as they have had 6 months of being top dogs and are really trying to test me (and the neighbours). This morning i resorted to spraying them with a water bottle when they jumped up... i have never had to do this with my own dogs, so i hope its ok... my biggest problem is that they will not leave my other dog (a female, they are both boys) alone, she is a timid girl anyway and i know they want to play but she cant even go to the toilet outside without being harassed and trampled - what should i do there?

well its no good shaking him once he has stopped and gone away (i know she was showing you what to do) - but it will just teach the pup to not come to you as he will associate it with getting hurt. And i wouldnt particuarly like being shoke so i dont see why it wouldnt be nice to dogs. If the pup is getting too over excited take him away from the commotion and let him calm down. Its not a punishment, change it into a positive experience so get him to sit or lie down etc. He is a puppy and hasnt learnt social boundaries but as a puppy they can kind of lose themselves in all the excitement so try to learn this behaviour and try stop it before it happens.... hope this makes sense and helps

hi all, geez its been awhile since i have been on here. I've got a couple of questions to ask you all. Currently i have two puppies in my care - a 6mth old italian greyhound and a 5mth old leonberger. i am caring for them for 2 weeks in a hope to calm them down as basically for the majority of their life they have been spoilt brats getting away with anything and everything. So i have my hands full and the massive bite marks and bruises to go with it! These puppies are very sweet natured (deep deep deep down!!) but the family who owns them has NO idea about how to look after them - and basically doesnt want to know (yes i hear you say - why do they own dogs....well money goes a long way). They have calmed down a little bit (i have had them nearly a week) but i am still having problems with: -biting/nipping my hands and face -biting/nipping/harassing my other dogs -jumping up -bone aggression. Again they are getting better but i just want to know if there are any other ways to decrease these behaviours. I am trying to ignore them with they jump up, but am getting scratched like nothing else when i go out the back door. i have put bitter bite on my hands - they just lick it. These dogs have had such a spoilt life and since coming to my house they have had the shock of their life!! - - oh no spending a while day outside, how dare those humans.... I know it wont go away overnight but ANY helpful hints would help thanks bree

sutherland is a great training club. Glad you like it. i am an instructor down there but unfortunately i am a vet student and have to work at clinics on sunday mornings now and dont get to come down! MrsDog is a great trainer and you should also meet a lad called Karen she is great... Say HI to all puppies for me!!!

shekhina - i agree that her problems will not be fixed on the net.... so now she has the advice to seek a professional..... everyone needs to remember that we are on the same side here!! for our dogs!! :p

I've re-read the thread and I get where you're coming from, I just don't agree with you. You say our replies were black and white...our first replies were about the violence towards the dog...that IS black and white...violence is never OK. But both of us also offered suggestions to Scope. The only difference I see between us and almost every other poster was that we weren't "fluffing" our responses to avoid conflict. That's fine, I don't agree with you either, I dont think its anything to do with avoiding conflict, I saw others trying to help both make Scope not feel even more guilty (she already said how bad she felt & knew it was wrong) & give constructive ideas on ways to help & methods to try. When someone mentioned further down the thread (I think it may have been bree?) that Scope was looking for help your response was "And scope has been advised to either get in touch with Steve from K9 Force or to seek out another good trainer." Black & white, no other suggestions from others should be forthcoming. Ignoring the fact that Scope has mentioned how hard up for money she is. Once again, black & white. Your only suggestions were that & to get rid of the dog. If you re-read the thread again you may also notice that quite a few other people have commented on the fact that Scope needs help & suggestions. I just happen to totally agree with them. Not that it's probably going to make a difference now anyway as Scope has mentioned not returning to the forum. Hope she finds the advice she needs out in the real world, don't you? :p i did say that i thought scope did understand what she did was not neccessarily the right thing, BUT IT HAS BEEN DONE!!!! she cant go back and change it... we could debate all day (well actually we have been, as i have tried to study for exams but seem to end up on here all day, this post started at like 11am and is still going with no resolution) about hitting/abuse of animals etc... but no matter what you all say, she has done it now and cant go back and take it back.... what she needs now is advice from you all - you collectively know so much, so put it to good use- to try to solve this problem!