Poodle wrangler

The human stuff from the chemist came to my mind, too, but I'd only use it on vet advice. Yikes $80. My understanding was that dry eye is often an ongoing problem. Sorry, not much help.

I can tell you that Nowra area is in need of a skilled poodle groomer. I know a few people who are looking for one. They only want simple pet styles- shaved face, feet base of tail, nails trimmed, ears plucked, #5 or so on body, minimal scissoring. I find it takes me a long time to do my 2, no way I'd offer to do someone elses :D . Talking to people, though, no one wants to part with much money for dog grooming/ washing/ clipping etc. Have to admit about $80-90 for 2 dogs puts me off, too, even though I now know how much work's involved it still sounds like a lot of $ in one go. Only people I know who get a mobile hydrobath have kids, both work, and larger breed dog. Would a dog walking/ doggy day care/ dog feeding business do better, with less outlay and less hard work? Bathing and grooming a dogs is hard work, I guess. Best wishes if you start the business .

My apricot standard pup had some tear staining when I first got him, though none was evident at the breeders and I asked about it as I've not had one of the lighter colours before. I basically didn't want an apricot if they had tear staining. One of the local kids asked why his eyes were "bleeding" :D . My understanding is that the staining is caused by bacteria/yeasts thriving in the fur in a moist environment. I don't know the cause, but a change in diet seemed to have the best effect- to include more raw foods- and it resolved itself within a couple of weeks. I cleaned his eyes with warm water about 3 times a day (keeping it clean), clipped the fur very close, but my impression was the diet did it. It's possible that he had a mild allergy to something different in the garden, he simply grew out of it, who knows? I could not see that teething was involved (about 10-13 weeks old). The vet can also check whether or not the tear ducts are working properly by using a dye. Human babies often get sticky eyes and "tear duct massage" used to be part of the treatment (don't know if it's an old wives tale or not). I wouldn't do it until asking the vet as it might do more harm than good. I'd remove sleep from eyes maybe twice a day if I'm home all day, but no tear staining. I've also noticed that the mini poodle will clean the standard's eyes in the morning. The little one's the boss . Can we have a pic, please ? About the lamb offcuts: Do you mean the fatty bits you wouldn't eat? Just be cautious as too much can cause tummy upsets, predispose to pancreatitis due to high fat. A toy pup is so little, a small amount to us is a lot to them. You'll find much disagreement about best diet/ kibble etc., best to stick with whatever works well. To me, it makes sense that raw meat and bones should be part of a dog's diet, not exclusively dry food that 'keeps' in a bag for months on end.

You said in another thread that Bindi has "the beginnings of" renal failure. This usually only worsens over time. I'm sorry, but I'm not a believer in alternative treatments for clear-cut medical conditions like renal failure, renal (kidney) infections etc. These are serious conditions which can respond to conventional vet treatment. (Dons :D suit)... These results are gibberish: Glorybea, this is no criticism of you. You seem like a very caring pet owner, trying to do the best for her dog. Unless you have a health-medical-veterinary background, however, how would you know these tests aren't valid for renal failure and infection? My mother is on renal dialysis following many years of worsening kidney failure. Specific diet and monitoring fluid intake- output is needed +/- some medication, depending on severity. An infection- untreated with antibiotics- can further worsen your dogs renal failure. It could even kill an elderly dog. Some antibiotics can also worsen renal failure, sometimes only temporarily, but it's a case of choosing the least bad option. About the rash: If your dog's kidney's aren't working properly, phosphate builds up in the blood and causes skin itching++. A simple blood test at the vet will show if this is the case for your dog. This is a common, treatable problem and cortisone is not the answer. Giving calcium or Alu-tabs will bind the phosphorus to help stop the itch. Vet will need to adjust for your dog, based on blood test results. Best wishes for you and your dog .

Sorry don't know for dogs, greys in particular, but these joint supplements (e.g Glucosamine + chondritin) for humans have only been shown to be effective once the joint problems are present. Only effective in certain dosages, also. It might help, before the problems start, but far as I know there's no studies to support it.

I've heard it advised to feed large breeds adult food, too. I have a 6 month old standard poodle who's lean and weighs 20kg now. If you look at some of the supermarket dry puppy foods, they're very high in protein and fat, and not suitable for a large breed. Then again, when you look at the nutrition panel, the calcium-phosphorus levels really aren't very different. I'm hedging my bets by feeding about 50% mince, chicken frames/necks etc. and meaty bones, the rest dry puppy food with a lower protein level.

I'd desex them now. I've had both dogs desexed at about 6 months with no problems. Both are male, desexed. Desexing helps, but does not cure, behaviour problems on its own. Training and you being a good leader are most important. My older dog still cocks his leg often, but never around the house. You can buy a larger crate with a divider panel to divide the crate in 2, but they're still quite big and I think 2 smaller ones are easier, as well as easier to place in the house. Smaller sizes can be bought for <$100 each. Not too late to crate train, but they might object to start with- be prepared, keep the crate a happy place, be consistent and they'll soon learn :D . Of course, you don't want them marking all over the house. It's a great time to get a crate as they can go in when they're still a bit sleepy after desexing. Will help them stay quiet post-op, also. They just need to get used to it if they're used to run-of-the-house at the moment. Good luck .

I use Advantix on my 2 and they don't seem to mind me putting it on. mysterious. I wish they'd develop something that does both flea and ticks and isn't a spot-on. The mini poodle has very dense fur and it's hard to get it all on the skin!

I was also told not to walk too much by many breeders for a standard poodle- they're larger than a lab. Breeders thought was that dog should be able rest whenever it wants and this doesn't happen on lead. No running and down stairs, no jumping on-off lounges and in-out of 4WDs, no overfeeding etc. Hip and knee problems have many factors involved- exercise, injury, diet, hereditary. I'm not sure if they're any studies to support the "not too much walking" theory, but it's common advice.

When I googled 'prednisone side effects', indigestion was listed as a common side effect. It's usual in humans to reduce the prednisone dosage gradually over a few days to avoid other side effects. Hope your dog is better now he's off the medication. I've read elsewhere that dogs can have some difficulty digesting veges and many puree/ mash/ blend them for their dogs. But if something's working well, don't mess with it!

Did you apply it between the shoulder blades? Directions suggest this so dog can't lick it off. I'm trying to visualise contortionist staffy scratching between shoulder blades :p . I use it all the time on my dogs with no problems, but that's not to say your dog's not having a reaction. It should start killing fleas in 20 minutes. Main reason I dislike flea collars is because my kids and I would also come in contact with the collar. I'd suggest you see if it settles down. There are other treatments like Advantage, Frontline etc. BTW, pricelesspets.com.au has good prices for all that stuff. ETA: Is pup due to see the vet again soon for next vaccination? Can ask their opinion about the ?reaction.

What people really object to is promoting designer dogs (the 'oodles'), BYB (backyard breeding) and pet shop dogs. Most don't believe any of these are good for the dogs. There's some awful stories about how poorly treated dogs can be e.g. Leo's Story: http://forums.dogzonline.com.au/index.php?showtopic=90139. Many people don't realise that a pet shop is a bad place to buy a dog. We all love dogs :p . Plenty of advice and assistance to be had here. Sorry I can't help, though - wrong area and allergic to most dog hair family members (hence the poodles).

Please correct me if I'm wrong, but don't many breeders fly their pups interstate to their new homes between 8-10 weeks of age? Is it an option for the breeder to board your pup for the week you're away? My pup did this when my Dad had to go to hospital. It was great because it's a familiar environment for pup and he was very happy to go. Too young for kennel IMO. I'm not an expert, but would guess there's more risk of parvo in a kennel than if pup flies with you? It's a short trip, though of course you can't count this with delays etc.

No skin irritation, no fleas, then why is she eating her fur in quantities enough to make her vomit? Flea treated (Frontline, Advantix, Advantage etc.), wormed fortnightly, all the basics done? Boredom, or a nervous habit? My MIL ShihTzuX developed this as a habit, but chewed rather than ate the fur. Does she have chew toys or raw bones?

I was thinking that, too. Surgery causes fulid shifts in the body, also. But if it continues for more than 3-4 days after desexing, I'd check with vet. Take a urine sample. Someone else suggested using a clean frying pan to collect it, then put in clean container.

The main thing I'd be worried about outside would be possibility of escape. I have an adult mini poodle who slides his body flat to get thru a 12cm high space under the gate. Your pup will be much smaller. 12cm- I just measured it . The more accidents that happen inside, the slower the toilet training will be. Have you thought about making a fleecy jumper for pup? It'll get quite cold in the laundry (I'm guessing).

Glad it was nothing major. I think you did the right thing to have it checked by a vet. There was a thread a while back where a dog had ear problems and was given the wrong treatment (e.g. cleaner for mites, or, mite treatment for infection, can't remember exactly) --> delayed him getting better quick and wasted money on the wrong medications/ drops.

Sorry am not much help, but the docked boxer we had also used to do a full-bottom to full-body wiggle. I have a mini poodle who's docked (pre-docking laws) but their tails are left at about 1/3- enough tail to sweep the floor or bang with excitement. Our new standard poodle is undocked and it's interesting to see so much body language in a tail. Would make an excellent featherduster, too , if only I could train him to use it.

Great photos, you clever people ...

Even the OH had a laugh. Fool .

My pup did this, too, and was part of the reason we kicked him outside to sleep and are getting rid of crate. That said, I used it a couple of nights last week after pup was desexed and it was cold outside. He settled after feeding, toilet break and some play before bedtime. I got him used to it again a few days before by putting his comfy bed in there and some treats, so he'd go in for shorter periods all by himself. Sounds like you're doing the right things, he's just getting used to it.

When brushing today, I noticed our standard poodle's coat seems a bit wiry along his back, in places. Previously more curly-wavy. He's now 6 months old, desexed only last week, so not much chance to have an effect, yet. I noticed it seems to have more pigment down the back, too. I've not clipped him for about 3-4 weeks, so should be equally sun-faded (?). He's going more cream-coloured, from apricot, but that's fine. Is this normal? The mini has very curly, harsh coat like a proper poodle, but I can't remember him having a phase like this?

I'd go for beginners. My standard poodle pup started off there at about 16 weeks of age. Other dogs were up to about 2 years old, though plenty a similar age. Puppy school is more for socialisation, I think. That said, the youngsters sometimes finish early as 2 half hour sessions is too much for them. We sat and watched the second half, instead. Still learn. ETA: Can you have a chat to one of the club organisers- they'll be able to tell you what's best.

Some people on DOL also sell these foods, so just bear that in mind... Glad you've found a better vet. What did they suggest? I'm sorry not to be able to give much advice, other than to say a lot of trial and error will probably be involved. So, she's on BARF now?

Like one of these? Some can be much too harsh/ scratchy. I found this out the hard way by buying a cheaper supermarket one . Dog hated it, but no wonder. They need to be labelled "soft" or "extra soft". What does it feel like if you use it on your arm? Shouldn't be at all painful, even with firm pressure. I use one on my sister's short-haired dog Ridgeback X Staffy. He really likes it and there's always lots of hair left on the brush. I use them on both poodles, also.