Poodle wrangler

There are lots of staffies at our local obedience club and it seems quite common for them to have skin problems. I haven't had allergy testing done on a dog, but have had it done on myself. After seeing the specialist, the diagnosis was "idiopathic" i.e. they have no idea what caused it, or, if it would happen again. I had the skin prick tests you describe which all came up negative. Taking corticosteroids and antihistamines blunt your reaction with testing. From what I've read, the tests and treatments you describe aren't that successful on humans and IMO will add up to too much money, on an ongoing basis, with no guarantees. The neighbours child had to take Claratyne every day (under specialist advice, he had severe allergies) but at least it worked. No one like to constantly give meds, but if it's best for your dog? I would do an "elimination" diet, check my garden for toxic and/or highly allergenic plants (though he might just be allergic to grass), give fish oil supplements and use medications for any "flare ups" he has, rather than go for the other tests. It would be worth trying a raw-fesh diet and eliminating all dry, commercial foods although they are very convenient. Some dry foods are supposed to be for "sensitive" dogs, so might be worth a try if all-raw is impractical for you. There are lots of DOLers with dogs with skin problems, so hopefully more info., soon.

At our local dog off leash beach, quite a few people leave their dogs on leash. Sometimes when you stop to chat they say their dog isn't friendly with other dogs or that they run off and don't come back when called. I'd not have your dog off leash after this incident. You won't enjoy it- you'll be worrying- and it's not a responsible thing to do. See the behaviourist. Not cheap, but you don't want to raise an aggressive dog. Meantime, if you're out keep him walking if other dogs approach and if anyone asks say you don't trust your dog to be friendly with other dogs. Any breed of dog can be declared a dangerous dog if it attacks and that wouldn't be a good thing. Good luck with your dog- I'm sure there's a lot you can do to help him .

I agree pricelesspets.com.au.

I have woolly dogs, too, and the standard poodle is a Charlie, too. He finds it too hot with the heaters on (his coat's longer than the mini poodle's at the moment). While the mini will be curled up in bed away from the fire, Charlie will be stretched out on the cooler tiles, instead. I first thought there might be something wrong, too, until I thought about it a bit more. Is your dog otherwise OK? Eating normally? Plenty of energy? Stitches look OK- no redness or swelling? If so, I'd say he's just hot. He's got his own inbuilt fleecy jumpers .

My dogs have never peed on bedding even when pups. Are they marking territory? Was the dog who died the alpha? It might take them a little while to sort out the new hierarchy? I'd wash the beds and put them away for a while. If it's a bit cold, you can use some cardboard from boxes- good insulation- and disposable until they get out of the new bad habit.

I was going to say the same as showdog. My pup is now about 7 months and 25kg. You have to be careful with the bigger dogs while the bones are growing (risk of hip and elbow problems if overexercised). Breeder warned me- he'll walk you for 5km, but don't overexercise him! A chi has only little legs, several steps to just one of yours. I'm sure she was just tired. I'm not sure there's anything wrong with carrying her, per se, as long as your a consistent leader generally. It's easy to spoil a pup, but it doesn't make them happy: They need a caring, consistent leader to teach them to be wonderful companions.

I've been looking at the grooming gear, too. http://www.freewebs.com/clipperbladesharpe...onfirmation.htm have good prices and excellent service, but cheaper overseas from what I can see, too, if you buy 2 or 3 and a brush for example.

They're evil. I must have pulled 4 socks and 1 teddy out of the jaws of poodles, all b4 1030AM . Like children, if they're quiet, you'd better find them. I looked down once to see the laptop power cord in pup's mouth . ;) . just looked at me as if to say, "What?"

Ours was about $60 for C3, including a general vet check all over. It will depend which vaccinations you choose e.g. C3 or C5. If you're not sure, check what the local obedience club and local kennels require for you to go there. I had C5 done just in case we need to kennel him at some stage unexpectedly. It's not so easy to find someone to have a larger dog for a few nights. I thought about 2 weeks after 2nd vaccs was OK. Where are the vet nurses or vets?

If you did that to my smaller dog, he'd bite you. Absolutely hates this and reacts as if you are being extremely threatening. I found this out when playing with him one time. He wouldn't bite me, but he clearly was really upset by it. Better ways to teach "no bite" IMO. I hold my pup's muzzle firmly while saying, "No bite" in a deeper, authoritative voice. I don't hurt my dog at all while doing this, just hold his muzzle closed gently, but firmly such that he cannot continue to bite. It's much easier to show you how, rather than type it. He got the message quickly. Nothing good happens when he bites- I'm not amused, I don't play with him, hold his muzzle closed and look and sound unhappy. Then I'm happy when he sits and does something else like a good pup. A CKCS pup probably likes to please, too.

Check out the amount of glucosamine in the ingredients- it's normally only a small amount, probably not enough to have any effect if your dog already have joint problems. There are so many threads on kibble- where to start? Look at the ingredients- meat should come first, not any grains like corn, rice etc. "Meat byproduct" less desirable than "meat meal". I like to feed at least some raw foods, also. It doesn't make sense to me that food kept "fresh" in a bag for months on end is the best nutrition, fed solely, for a dog. Better to give a specific supplement IMO. I'm sure you already know, but keeping your dog lean will also help any joint issues- less weight thru joints.

It's normal for puppy nails to be sharp (like their teeth ;) ). I'd suggest: * Grind down the nails. A rotary tool is efficient for this (e.g. Dremel or Ozito). See: http://homepages.udayton.edu/~merensjp/dob...mel/dremel.html * Teach them to not jump up- earlier the better. Using the dremel, you're unlikely to hit the 'quick'. If you do, it won't bleed nearly as much as if you had used nail cutters. Other disadvantage of the nail cutters is that you still get a sharp edge, so you have to also file them after cutting.

Some people put veg in a blender or puree raw. I can vouch for the fact that corn and carrot tend to come straight out the other end-whole and undigested- if in larger pieces . Sometimes starchy veg are good for dogs who need to lose weight. Some people feed raw, whole eggs- shell and all. I don't know whether or not it's a good idea, though . Have a look here: http://www.dolforums.com.au/index.php?showtopic=81686. Shmoo's added lots of info about various foods/ toxins for dogs :p . Lots of other useful info., too. I'm off to try and find a pic on DOL of your airedale- great -looking dogs.

What a lovely-looking dog. I'm glad she's fine. I've seen a baby boy require emergency surgery for an inguinal hernia after becoming ill quite suddenly. Aren't inguinal hernias quite rare in females? That seems like hefty vet bill, did they itemise it? Costs can vary widely. You've done the right thing in taking her to the vet when in doubt .

I've got the Shirley Kalstone book and have been trying to follow it. She shows all the gear, including pin brushes etc., so I wasn't sure. That was a really helpful description, and if that comb's what you use on a show coat, it's my technique that's at fault. Thanks . Shopping fever . I've always kept the mini in a shorter trim, but it's been so cold I'm reluctant to do the usual #4 body on the young standard. Going soft, I think :D . I'm now more careful with blades, oiling etc.

Need to find the cause e.g. recently had pups? slow bleed from somewhere in her digestive system? other illness? Has she had a vet check, yet? Raw meat would have lots of iron, I'd think. Mince would be the most economical. I'm not sure if you can give dogs extra iron tablets (like you would in humans)?

I've currently only got clippers, blades #4F, #5F, #10, #30, slicker, greyhound style comb (teeth a bit too short for the standard poodle). I've been looking at some US websites and there's so much stuff out there. I was thinking of: * either another #30 or #40 blade for face, feet, tail, plus for comb attachment. Other one is starting to show first signs of rust http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...p;rd=1&rd=1 * #3 blade for body of standard http://cgi.ebay.com/Laube-3-75-Dog-Groomin...oQQcmdZViewItem * Doggyman slicker * Comb with longer teeth? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...hlink:middle:us or http://cgi.ebay.com/Resco-Long-Tooth-Dog-G...oQQcmdZViewItem * Maybe a pin brush? http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...:PIC&ih=005 Or, have I gone a bit shopping-mad ?

Was small and grey, think it was a bush tick. I'm really not sure what a paralysis tick looks like in comparison?

Do you know of any good value stores in Australia? I'm amazed how expensive clipper blades, slickers, combs etc. are here in comparison with the US! $33 +post for a Doggyman/ Millers forge 'designer series' slicker here. Same= USD$11.50+ post.

Go the human hair dryer, use it on a lower heat setting and move it around so it doesn't get too hot in the one spot. Is amazing how quickly that happens. If you want him fluffy and soft, brush the fur as you dry. I'd love to have 3 hands- much easier to part the fur, so you dry from the base outwards :rolleyes: .

Sorry, not sure. It's certainly a "no no" to refreeze if it's for human consumption. The stuff I buy is a little more expensive, but frozen flat into 1kg bags which is nice and manageable. Some chicken mince is really rubbish- see what you think and how the dogs go on it.

Thanks for that, The customs website said, "All goods (except for tobacco products and alcoholic beverages) may be imported duty and tax free if their value is $1,000 or less." :rolleyes: If anyone's looking at clipper blades, slicker brushes etc., US ebay has some good prices.

I just pulled a tick off my mini poodle :rolleyes: . I thought they were much more common in warmer months. (ETA: It been about 16 degrees in the daytime lately here). Guess I'll be putting on the Advantix, now....

With cancers, people usually get a "pleural effusion" which is different again- has to be drained using a needle and can be > a litre of protein-filled fluid, if severe. Frusemide has no effect on it. In humans, frusemide is always given in the morning. If it's a twice a day dose then both earlier in the day e.g. 8AM and 12 or 2PM, so they're not up to the toilet all night. wizard1 had a post on dobes with heart failure who are on frusemide. Same drug, different disease.

I'm looking to buy some new grooming gear- slicker, comb, and a #3 blade e.g. http://cgi.ebay.com/The-BEST-Doggyman-Med-...oQQcmdZViewItem. Prices seem much cheaper in the US, even including exchange rates and post. Anyone bought from overseas? Do I have to pay duty/ tax when they arrive, etc.? Thanks :rolleyes: .