Poodle wrangler

I've got an anti-bark ecollar (bought from K9 Force) and its fantastic - I've never had an issue with it going off at the wrong time. Its rechargeable so batteries are no problem - just plug it in overnight every couple of days. My Mum has been using it alot on the GSD that lives with her, she runs around like a mad thing, jumps on gates etc etc and unless she barks, it doesn't go off. We have it set so it zaps her, but not too harshly - just so it makes it uncomfortable - so she'll usually bark once or twice when someone arrives and then stop. I'm considering an ecollar, too. My larger dog barked for a solid 30 minutes- until I got home- and you could hear him 500m away (no joke- I even measured it on google earth because I thought that couldn't be right ). I was really concerned about it going off at the wrong time. So, thanks .

Charlie barked for a solid 30 minutes when left in the backyard on his own, until I got home. The chicken carcass I'd given him was untouched. He's used to having another dog for company, but I had to take the other dog to an appt that day. He's a standard poodle, nearly 8 months old, desexed male. I work part-time and the dogs are used to having each other, plus humans, much of the time. They're not allowed to bark for more than a few minutes, if I'm home they're "shhhh"ed. They sleep outside, but have access inside-outside when I'm home. The mini poodle (6 years, dominant temperament) is a protective barker and likes the sound of his own voice. We live adjacent to a golf course and he's started to bark at golfers on the fairway (screened with trees). Fair enough, but only when they come to the fence, looking for a ball. Both dogs are walked daily, older dog likes to do a trick or 2 and I do 5 minute training for the younger dog, chew toys/ bones etc if I'm out. The standard is more laid back and this barking is new. We go to local obedience classes. How do I stop Charlie from becoming a barker? Do I need to cure the older dog's barking first? (seems to be getting worse, or I'm more aware of it). The volume from a standard poodle bark crosses 500m from our place, starting a neighbourhood barking chain-reaction . Smaller dog bark is irritating, but not as loud or disruptive to neighbours (I think). Charlie has only just found his voice. Before, he only barked rarely. I tried an ultrasonic collar on Oscar before-it worked OK to start- then lost its effect. It would go off when he was just running or jumping, not barking frown.gif . Any ideas? I'm not against using an ecollar, but wouldn't want it to go off with so many false alarms as the ultrasonic collar did. I think it might make either dog fearful if they were zapped regularly during normal play. I've started doing the TOT with Charlie. He barks on tie out and I have to wait for a break in barking to go back out with the food. He is looking at me. Yesterday, I also put Charlie out in the yard with a bone and left him alone for about an hour (other dog inside). He started to bark, I waited for him to take a break then called out to him, sit, then back inside. I'm planning to try to lengthen the time he's left outside on his own. Thanks for any advice Sorry for the essay ...

I've tried an ultrasonic type collar with my barking dog and had some initial success, only to find he got used to it and it was ineffective. I borrowed it from a friend and the collar was expensive to buy and batteries expensive to replace (about $20). Collars are now cheaper. It often activated with NO barking e.g. dog would jump, play, run down stairs etc. and it would go off. I don't know if the anti-bark ecollars share this problem. Not an issue if you're home, I guess. Let us know how you get on ...

Added benefit of having him blow dried will be the amount of dead fur you'll get rid of! A good brush will also help remove some of the dirt. I'm not sure which type of brush is best for GSDs? Get a good one as they're so much better to use (I learned this the hard way). Diet and age seems to affect smell, also. Older dogs seem to get pongier. Those fed mostly raw food seem to smell better. Bathing, blowdrying and brushing should work well, though. I'm not a huge fan of the doggy deodorants- the cover-up sometimes is worse overall than the original smell. Didn't someone suggest some cornstarch or bicarbonate of soda thru the coat, then brushed out to help reduce odour (sorry, not sure)?

An economical ear cleaner is Malaseb (an anti-fungal, antibacterial shampoo) diluted 1:50 with water. A few threads on it here if you do a search. Not sure about Amoxycillin, but Keflex and Augmentin have been prescribed for my dog and vet said that the human variety was fine to use. Both are normally on prescription from your GP. Leftovers in the drug cupboard are only OK if you have enough for a proper 5-7 day course, otherwise, you'll do more harm than good (superinfection).

My standard poodle has scars from bite wounds on the side of his face and fur does not grow back over the scars. I see them each time I clip his face close.

She looks beautiful and in great condition. Wish I looked as good as a grey! We got an exCH boxer from a breeder who was used to kennel life and she took a full 3-4 weeks to settle in. She seemed to be pining. I think you've done really well. A household must be a scary place if they're not used to it.

Problem with things like mild ear infections is that unless your dog's had them b4 you might make the wrong assumptions. They could have mites instead and the treatments are different, for example. My vet's really good and does not overcharge. He/ she (husband-wife, both are excellent) and will suggest the most economical options e.g. human medications if you have access to them and its suitable for the dog's problem. I little bit of knowledge is a dangerous thing .

I haven't use time out on dogs. I'm not sure the principles that apply to kids work, but I'm open to ideas. He sounds like a normal puppy and it's good that your first reaction is to distract, rather than punish. You mention a "third warning", though. Only 1 warning, then actually stop the behaviour...e.g. if he's attached to the rug, detach him, say, "Good dog (happy voice) and reward him for doing so with the toy. Pups really respond to consistency. In the Training/ Obedience/ Dog sports section, have a look at the pinned posts at the top. You can start Triangle of Temptation with your pup. Will help him learn to pay attention to you. Treats are also a good motivator for labs (bless them!), just make sure you deduct treats from their total food intake. A fat lab is not a healthy lab .

I've seen martingales that are all-nylon, others that have a small chain section. Any preference? ETA: I don't have a problem with him slipping the collar.

I left Charlie (standard poodle) in the backyard by himself and he must have barked for a solid 30 minutes- he was barking when I got home and a chicken carcass I'd given him to keep him entertained was untouched. I could still hear him barking 500m away- no exaggeration . He saw us walk away and I took the smaller dog because since Mr PW cut down a tree and dented the fence he can escape if highly motivated (it'll be fixed asap). He'll also bark if tied out in front of a shop (local shops where I'm less than 100m away). I work part-time and the dogs are used to having each other, plus humans, about much of the time. They're not allowed to bark for more than a few minutes, if I'm home they're "shhhh"ed. They sleep outside, but have access inside-outside when I'm at home and generally hang out with me or sun themselves on the back deck. Dog's life . The mini poodle (6 years, dominant temperament) is a protective barker and likes the sound of his own voice. He's walked daily, plenty of stimulation, chew toys/ bones etc if I'm out. The standard is more laid back and happy to be follower, not leader. Also has plenty to do. If he follows in the other dog's footsteps I'll have noise complaints for sure. How do I stop him becoming a barker? Do I need to cure the older dog's barking first? I tried an ultrasonic collar on Oscar before, but it worked OK to start, then lost its effect. I also noticed it would go off when he was just running or jumping, not barking . Anyone tried an e-collar? Ideas?

I use a flat collar with our 25kg, 7 month-old standard poodle, and I'm about to buy another collar as he's outgrown the "spare". Will it be easier to stop him pulling with a martingale? I mean to bring him to a stop, so we can start over, walking on loose leash? Or, if he lunges forward unexpectedly, that I can stop him more easily as opposed to being pulled over. I understand training is what's required, but this is to be an aid to me while we're learning. I also want to avoid hurting him. I'm not sure that a flat collar is better if I need to apply force for longer to bring him to a stop. I used a check chain when first training our older small dog because that's what was used in the class, but never as a choking/ yanking device. An 8kg dog pulling while he's learning is not so hard on the arms . I know training is the only answer to stop him pulling and we're doing this with a local club, but I'm thinking of safety, and my arm muscles, in the meantime. Thanks for any advice

Best to treat it asap, so head off to the vets. If it's bad, a prescription ear drop will fix it properly. Friend of mine had a GSD who had chronic ear problems. One vet even suggested removing the ear drum, it was that chronic (he didn't). Malaseb (an antibacterial, antifungal shampoo) can be used as an ear cleaner, diluted 50:1 with water. Sometimes, you need to use a cleaner, then a prescription antibiotic/antifungal drops from the vet. Why does one have it and not the other? Bit like one person getting sick, while another stays well in the same environment.

The "rubbing their faces in it" technique just doesn't work- the dog has no idea what you're on about, though I'm sure it's made frustrated people feel better . If you catch the dog in the act, just say, "no" and put them outside- they know exactly what you mean because you act immediately. Deterent? Well at the moment the rug is attracting her. Her sense of smell is so good that even if you think you've cleaned, she can still smell where she went last time. You have to be there when the dog toilets outside. It's not over 'til it's over. Same routine each time, preferably same place until she learns. She needs you to teach her that going outside is the RIGHT thing to do- use treats (anything she really loves) and praise her. I used to tell pup to "wee-wee" and after a while he'd look over to me as he started to go, ready for me to say, "Good boy!". You have to sound excited, although you'd much rather be somewhere else . The more accidents you allow to occur inside, the longer toilet training will take. Watch her like a hawk, or, have her outside. It's consistency and time .

My son's done that! (almost). I've got one of those Blackdog smart leashes you can clip to tie out easily, so I adjusted it to clip around my waist instead as I had my hands full (too uncomfortable to do for long). My 35kg son thought he'd try it and the 25kg poodle pup pulled him straight over- flat on his belly- when he jumped forward suddenly . Lucky the kids are sturdy. He was on grass. I'll be about double the weight of the dog once he's fully grown and much lower centre of gravity than a skinny 9 year old boy . Thanks for the pic, Anissa. I'd need to be careful my dog didn't knock me over, too, because he forgets he's got a brain sometimes (still a pup). Hey, if a team of standard poodles can do the Iditarod (huge sledding race in Alaska) ? In case anyone's interested, found these hands free walking belts- can use with ordinary leash- http://www.windchill.com.au/walking_belt.htm Very lightweight with velcro- http://www.snooza.com.au/products/active-walker.shtml Black Dog one: http://www.blackdog.net.au/accessories.php

Has anyone used a handsfree leash? They're about $55 + $20 for the lead to go with it (clasp on both ends; Blackdog brand) :D Am thinking this might be handy to use, but don't want a $75 white elephant in the cupboard .

So pleased to hear you're making progress :D .

"Training!", I hear you cry . I'm taking my dog to obedience classes at a local club. For training, I use a flat collar. I'm only after a well-mannered pet, who will walk next to me on a loose leash. I intend to buy an extra collar (he's just outgrown one) and was wondering if a martingale type might make it easier to control him if I have hands full and he decides to pull? What about one of those hands free leashes? I realise that training is the only real way to stop him pulling. Our dog is a male, desexed, 7 month old, standard poodle, about 25kg. He's improving his loose leash walking, but sometimes pulls. Sometimes it's necessary to take him out with kids and another dog and it's very difficult to hold kids hands while crossing road, hold dog's leashes effectively etc. Any thoughts? Thanks :D

Problem here is that you cannot legally get the "proper" vaccines from anyone other than a vet and pups should be vet-checked anyway. A breeder needs to only give one vaccination, if pups go at 8-10 weeks. What's to be gained by a vet nurse, instead of a vet, giving the injection? If you're legitimate, that is. (BTW, Registered nurses vaccinate humans, but I don't think that's the point here).

Sorry, no stats, but our standard poodle was desexed about a month ago. I was horrified when he decided it was a good idea to just jump straight up in the air for no reason only 2-3 days after the op. Fortunately, no problems with the sutures or wound. Aren't wounds usually closed in layers?

I agree about making sure you rinse the coat really well. Better if you can use a shower hose attachment, even if it's one of those cheap plastic ones that go on to your tap. When you brush, you need to part the fur with one hand so you can brush right down to the skin. Love BCs .

What about diluted Malaseb as an ear cleaner? Dilute 1 part Malaseb: 50 parts water. Should be a few threads on it if you so a search.

Don't feel guilty about what you feed. I suspect your dogs are better cared for than many .

Hope he's fine . Sorry I don't know the nail story, but the only way to get the quick back is to trim a little off, often, as in every few days (yawn). Using a dremel- Ozito, or any rotary tool- makes it easier. If you do hit the 'quick', by accident, I'm told it bleeds far less than with clippers. You can buy Styptic powder at the pet store (about $10) which will stop any bleeding. I've only ever hit it with clippers. This link is the lady who dremels the nails of rescue dobes, so you CAN do it: http://homepages.udayton.edu/~merensjp/dob...mel/dremel.html.

I'm no expert here and was at wits end a few weeks ago when it was pull, pull, pull. Time makes a difference! Keep it up. It's great when your dog starts to know what you mean and do what you say. Much more fun . I also find burning a bit of energy before class helps calm my dog- we do a bit of a jog around the oval, not worrying about heeling and have a bit of a play. I also make sure he's not had food for about 4 hours before training, so the treats are more exciting.