Poodle wrangler

I don't agree with what you say the vet said. You can safely halve your dog's current food until he is a normal weight. Foods like mashed pumpkin can help him feel fuller without making him fat. Lean dogs have fewer bone problems as pups and adults, so I'm not sure why the vet would say to leave it and exercise more instead . Most breeders suggest NOT to overexercise pups with growing bones. They believe it's associated with hip problems (many factors, though). You can increase the exercise after about 12 months, depending on breed (not sure for an ACD- when they've stopped growing). Right advice from becks- look at your dog. Ignore whatever the packet says if you feed dry food- you need to reduce the food if he appears overweight. Look side-on: Does he have a "waist"- narrowing before hips? He should. Put your hands flat at his sides: Can you feel his ribs pressing only gently? Should. If he stretches out, you should be able to see his ribs. You shouldn't be able to see backbones or hip bones protruding (too skinny).

Perhaps there's something in what you've written here that I am misunderstanding - but if Bruno grows out of his leather collars, he would also be growing out of his check chain. Check chains are like kids shoes ..... they need to fit correctly at the time and will need to be replaced/upgraded to the next appropriate size as he grows. I presume you don't leave the chain on Bruno when he is not being supervised, Buno06? Perhaps I have not interpreted your post correctly. ****************** I don't know if the OP is returning here, but it would be interesting to know if he/she has tried any of the suggestions posted, and what the results were. How should a check chain be fitted? I haven't used on e since they were mandatory at the 6 year old dog's puppy school (the dreaded Bark Busters).

:p I knew the lady who used to groom my mini poodle was fantastic with him because he was always pleased to see her and he doesn't even like being bathed and groomed. I clip him myself now and she's retired. It's always a good sign for owners if their dog likes you

Is 7 months adolescence? If so, go for another round of training and socialisation- dog will test the boundaries and you need to he needs you to set them. Positive rewards (treats, praise) will be more successful. Yeah, hitting him on the bum probably made you feel better but will only teach the dog that you're a scary person to be avoided. Desexing might help, but it's not a cure-all. You still need to teach- train and I wouldn't allow him access to the house unless you can supervise 100%. If caught in the act, it's a firm, "no" and put outside and ignored for about 10 minutes (or until you calm down).

Bit off-topic, but one trainer at obedience isn't a fan of food rewards, while another is. The first will use food to teach the behaviour, then phase out. The other uses food all the time. Both seem to get results. We have both of them at different times. What do you think? Go with the flow as long as our dogs are responding?

I have a similar problem at the moment, but no complaints as yet. I would also suggest you clarify the matter with council e.g. dogs are inside overnight and you're at home much of the time? Are the neighbours at home a lot, too? We have neighbours who have complained about every dog in a 500m radius, but they have zero tolerance for barking. To make it worse, noise travels across our local golf course so they can easily hear dogs 400m away. Their expectations aren't reasonable. I think they need to move to an acreage . Has the vet said, "NO" knowing the full situation- council letter, other methods tried? You'd be amazed how many people see debarking as a first resort (someone even posted just that on DOL!). Debarking results can vary widely, apparently, so it's worth having a vet recommended for the procedure IF it proves necessary. Best wishes. I'll watch and see what I can learn, too.

Thanks for replying, Erny. Oscar is a 6 year old mini poodle. Charlie an 8 month old standard poodle. We live adjaent to a gold course and Oscar has started barking at golfers on the fairway. If they come close to our fence, fair enough, but on the fairway's not good. Oscar tends to be barker and is used to being by himself e.g. when I work, though he much prefers his humans about. I take each dog out by themselves, but there's usually a human at home with the dog who isn't coming with me. Charlie is used to having at least Oscar about since coming to live with us as a pup. Day of the 30 minute barking episode I had to take Oscar with me, so Charlie was home alone. Both dogs are inside-outside when I'm home and I've started giving Charlie a bone and leaving him outside for 30 min- 1 hour (until barking starts), then I wait for a pause in barking, call him and bring him in (for sake of neighbours). I've started TOT with him also. He looks at me, but barks on tie out. I have to wait for him to take a break b4 I go out to him with the food. Charlie will bark when Oscar starts. ETA: Charlie does obedience classes with me (local club). Oscar is well-mannered, other than the barking and been to obedience in the past. Both exercised mind & body. Oscar is actually the more active of the 2, though both active dogs.

Devon is the food of the devil . I tried it at first because I was a good student and listened to the teacher who said it was great, avoid dry treats- Nup, cold, wet devony fingers :D. Dry treats are gobbled so quick; I haven't noticed much difference.

To all the great vets out there ... I'm very lucky- our local(ish) vet is great, too.

I got a similar one from BiLo supermarket for about $5, then promptly lost it (my fault, not the bag's). Figured was worth a try as the Black Dog ones are expensive. Our obedience instructor has a Black Dog one worn on the hips, but also uses pockets. Walking smorgasboard. Blackdog: http://www.blackdog.net.au/main.html. I use pockets in daggy clothes. Clothes themselves are cheaper than the Blackdog gear .

I was thinking of a urine dip-stick test which can be done in the surgery. Will pick up sugar in the urine (possible diabetes), protein, blood (possible kidney disease or infection) and specific gravity (possible overdrinking or body not handling fluid balance correctly). May is recent, but obviously older dogs are prone to more health problems just because they're older. The one that was sent away was probably looking for infection and goes to a lab, hence the expense. If you know a nurse, ask them to do one for you at work. Poor Ellie. Does hormone replacement plus Propalin have much success in dogs?

I was in a similar situation, but both dogs were excited on lead, trying to lunge toward each other. It was a real advantage to be able to get my dog to sit, stay- even if I did tilt him back into a sit a couple of times (8 months old, still learning). They're right next to you, so it isn't too hard an ask if they've had a little training. You can also ask them to "watch" you. The other owner looks like a complete *ickhead with their dog going berserk while yours is sitting nicely. Very helpful, too, if people tend to be prejudiced against your breed (e.g. they'd blame your dog for any fight, no matter if another dog was at fault). I reckon whatever it takes, so that your dog doesn't get in to a bad situation with another dog. He can't bite with your hand around his muzzle, so that wasn't so bad. I'd work on a sit. Use treats and practice with some training at home. Classes would be even better. No joy to anyone if you're technically in the right, but a dog is injured (yours or theirs).

Another issue to consider is that your dog needs to go under anaesthetic for them to do the hip/ elbow Xrays for scoring. If his parent's scores are doubtful, I'd not put him under anaesthetic as the benefit (not highly likely he's suitable to breed from) doesn't outweigh the risk. Hip dysplasia (HD) is polygenic and variables like weight, nutrition and exercise are also important. Things you can do to help your dog avoid HD include: * Keeping him lean- not always easy with a lab * Special large breed diet, if you feed dry food (less protein). * Don't overexercise him or have him running up and down flights of stairs, jumping, doing agility type exercises etc. at a young age. Good on you for asking before getting in to breeding.

Duct tape? Bucket on head? Just don't cut off his circulation with your enthusiasm to keep them on

He's beautiful

What does the vet say is the cause of the incontinence? Has a recent urine sample been taken? It's a very basic test to do and could suggest other problems contributing to the incontinence. If she's quite elderly, 'doggy dementia' can make the problem worse. Lots of other health problems could, too.

I downloaded Photoucket program which is easy to use. You just click and drag photos to upload. http://www.flock.com/photobucket/start/ When you want to post a pic, you open the pic, copy the bit below "IMG Code - Forums & Bulletin Boards". Back on DOL, you click on the "insert image icon" - 2 to the right of the smiley face above this post- and click paste. When you preview, the photo comes up. Hope that helps.

Have a quick search for "food" and you'll come up with so much info on DOL your head will spin. Some of the ingredients used in pet food are truly gross. Word of warning, some vets sell Hills Science Diet and although it has a premium price, it's main ingredient is corn, so I'd give it a miss. You'll also pay a premium at the vet. They have Hills Puppy Packs- our vet gives them as freebies- take one of those and say you'll think about it . DOL favourites seem to be Eagle Pack, Nutro, Royal Canin which are the more expensive brands. I tried my dogs on Purina One which is a supermarket food with reasonable ingredients- they had a trial where they reimburse you for your first bag (sign up on their website)- my dogs seemed to like the food and look good on it. Poos OK (some foods make the poo patrol a nightmare). I also feed raw bones, chicken carcasses (larger dog), chicken necks, roo meat etc. I'm not recommending any dry food, but not everyone can afford $80-90/ 15kg bag. Chicken necks, chicken wings are in supermarkets and are great as fresh food for one of pups meals. They love to chew. I would only bath your pup if you can make sure that he does not get cold AT ALL .. i.e. you will have to dry him completely and sit with him near a heater unless you live in the tropics. Cold stresses them a lot. He appears to have thick fur, too.

Poor boy. Hope he feels better soon. Couldn't they give him an injection to help stop the nausea and vomiting? (oops, you're at home, now?). It will pass, just make sure he has some fresh water and that he can drink and keep some down. Leave off the food ..

. He was probably tired . Perfect time for teaching stays and drops when the dog's tired, says out instructor. My pup's about 8 months and is exhausted after training. Where's a piccie? My dog's best mate at training is a mini schnauzer called Jerry . You don't see many giants around.

Obviously, the dogs are in for a shock. Off leash parks and beaches can be a nightmare with stupid owners allowing their aggressive dogs with no recall off-leash. There are many threads on DOL about well- behaved, friendly dogs being attacked at off-leash areas. Often the attacker comes back and/or doesn't even get put back on leash. As you say, your dogs' recall is also a problem. I'm guessing they have no traffic sense, so that's a problem as many off leash areas aren't fully fenced. It's much safer for your dogs to walk and exercise them on lead. How are they on a leash? You may need to start some training with them (if you haven't already). Training to walk on a loose leash is an advanced exercise. How to train them to always come back? Why would they come back when it's so much fun? You have to attract them with something even more exciting (e.g. small piece of their favourite food) and keep practicing. They should be attached to a really long bit of rope, so that escape is not an option. Escaping for a run is a reward, so they learn the wrong thing if they're allowed to run off when you say, "Come". Start off with no distractions, working up to when they're highly distracted ("run" mode). Never call them to punish e.g. when they eventually come back from their run. From what you've said, it looks like barking could also be problem. How do you plan to manage it? Dogs inside? Antibark collars? You don't want to get off side with neighbours immediately. I have a barking problem myself despite having well-exercised dogs and someone home much of the time .

Love the tail action! Clever boy and loving it . Bet he has a big staffy smile on his face, too.

Thanks KitKat. I saw this on one of the sites to buy an ecollar: http://www.hushpuppy.com.au/terms_and_policies.html#31 This is one of the collars: http://www.hushpuppy.com.au/iki_pulse.html Or, do I have it wrong and is a "static correction product" different to an antibark ecollar ;) ?

Suspect I'd need 2 collars for better results . The older dog is teaching the younger one his bad habits. Problem was yesterday I needed to leave the younger dog in the backyard and he barked for 30 minutes solid at much higher volume that the little one is capable of- 25kg deep-chested vs. 8kg- I think because he's used to at least another dog for company. I could hear him 500m away . Making the problem worse is 2 dogs that bark from across 3 fairways of golf course- both dogs are starting to bark back.

I've already posted about our dog's new barking problem. New for the younger, louder dog. The older dog (mini poodle) is dominant, and tends to be a barker. Will I need to address his barking first, or, is it better to address both at the same time? The 8 month old standard poodle's barking seems to be related to being left alone. I'm doing TOT with him and he will bark on tie out. I wait for a break in the barking b4 bringing the food out. He's looking at me now, not the food. I'm also giving a bone and leaving him outside for about an hour. I hope to gradually increase this. If I was to use an antibark ecollar, would both dogs need one? (feels purse strings tighten ). I'd like to get on top of the problem b4 a noise complaint is made and both dogs are walked daily and the younger goes to obedience. ETA: Is it possible for them to "share" a collar. Problem could be the approx. 15 kg size difference. Thanks for any responses