Poodle wrangler

Can you weigh her weekly? If she's not losing weight and has no medical problems, she must be getting too much food, still, and/or not enough exercise. Be careful exercising an overweight dog. By all means go the "light" dry food if it's your preference, but also cut portion size. Whatever's on the packet is only a guide. Your eyes and the scales are the real test!

I'd give the Hills a miss. Has a lot of corn in it and doesn't offer good value, especially at vet clinic prices. If you want to feed dry food, you'd do better elsewhere. Suggest a budget, and we can comment. No point suggesting Eagle Pack etc. if you don't want to pay about $80/ 15kg bag. Ideally, I'd feed my dogs an all-raw diet, but kibble (dry food) is very convenient, so I do about 50:50. Skin problems very common in staffies. I second the shampoo comment. Also do you use a brush? Slickers are good for massaging the skin and getting rid of excess fur, too. If you get one, just make sure it's "EXTRA GENTLE" or your dog will hate you. Doggyman and Lawrence Tendercare are very good brands. If in doubt, use it on your arm first- should NOT hurt.

My MIL has had her dog's nails done by the vet, but still ignores them in between yearly visits. Is deaf to suggestions to buy clippers or grind them. I'm amazed how quickly dog's nails grow. I can grind the pup's down weekly and only just keep up with growth. Shaving poodle feet probably makes them look longer, but still! That reminds me, they're "clinking" on the floor and I need to do some catchup dremelling .

A force dryer at the groomers would help blow off that extra coat for you. If not an option, even a "blow dry" on cool setting, toether with brushing might help. This is stating the obvious, but are you careful to really thoroughly rinse all shampoo off him? Do you brush right down to the skin? Coarse comb afterwards to check for tangles/ dead fur left behind? I know no-one told me to do this initially and it makes such a difference. Sounds like the undercoat rake is doing a good job, but what else do you use? Slicker brushes help with excess fur, dead skin and are gentle provided you get the "extra soft" quality brand ones. Not sure about Norfolks .

Sorry, not a groomer, but can you muzzle the dog for your safety and take off a safe amount each time you see them? I'd charge extra due to the extra time it will take you. Let the owner decide whether they want you to do it, or not. Explain why it might be better done more effectively at the vet's. People have strange expectations and are just as likely to complain you didn't "fix" them in one go . Unless they were repeat clients, why would you take it on? I'd explain to the owners that the nails need to be done humanely at the vet due to them having been neglected for so long. The reasons you've already stated are valid. THe owner needs to take responsibility for the neglect, it's not your fault.

You could get some "Styptic powder" from the pet shop in case it happens again. Is designed for this. I've done this b4 too, now I use a dremel to grind down the nails instead- easier to avoid the "quick" and if you do hit it apparently it doesn't bleed nearly as much as when using clippers. ETA: I did nothing at all the time it happenned, but I guess it depends how low you've cut. Some dogs will be obviously uncomfortable for days.

This thread is interesting as I'd also like a magic device to stop my dog pulling on leash- but it's all about training, isn't it? You have to teach your dog that loose leash= good, and be consistent. Lunging large breeds is another story e.g. lunging after a bike etc.? Can't you use a "sit", "stay"? Or "watch" (as in watch me)? My training with the larger dog is a loooong way from advanced level, but he will "sit" instead of going bonkers trying to play with another dog etc. I tell him to "sit" as soon as he starts carrying on and praise for when he's quiet. Did you see the Danes on "It's me or the dog"? One that pulled over and dragged the owner across concrete. Was all about training, leadership and getting the dog used to behaving more normally in these situations by desensitising him. They introduced him to other dogs gradually and turned him around as soon as braying, lunging or carry-on started. He only got to approach when not crazy.

I can understand that you don't want to feed, then exercise/ play with pup, but will feeding later result in poos at night? Depends how late last toileting is, I guess. Great idea about 'lunch' in a chew toy. There's loads of different ideas about preventing bloat. There's a study here (standard poodles can get it, too- large dog, deep chest): http://www.poodlesinaustralia.com/health/health18.html. Basically- use common sense e.g. you don't exercise after a large meal, why do it to the dog? And seek urgent vet attention ASAP if any sign of it. We lost a boxer to bloat, but I was much younger and none of our family recognised the signs . Lovely pup . ETA: I was a bit lazy with our pup and put him outside to sleep from 9 weeks. Mind you, he's got his own in-built warm coat and he was a "summer-autumn" pup.

A dog at training has both a Lupi and flat collar. Guess what? He pulls on both! I think his main problem is lack of exercise, however, as he's an energetic boxer but owner doesn't walk him every day. I was told to use one at puppy school 6 years ago with a mini poodle. It was suggested for all dogs and they sold them, too. Did they say why? Friends in Sydney were told the same thing at puppy school . Their dog stayed with me for 6 weeks and I never used it, that's how "necessary" it was.

My standard poodle tried this one on me earlier on, too. He would eventually eat the kibble, though, when it was obvious no other raw stuff was forthcoming . His weight's OK, so I don't worry when he ignores the dry food- I give it back to him later on. Kibble= food of last resort .

Sorry, I don't know how to socialise him with kids, but have read that kids are really scary to many dogs. Compared with adluts, kids have sudden, jerky movements, often loud and unpredictable. Not your dog's fault and I think you did the right thing in what you told the kids . Frightened dogs can bite, especially if cornered. Watch kids because often their parents don't. Whole groups of kids have come rushing up to my smaller dog, screaming, hands outstretched over his head- very threatening from a dog's point of view. I put my hand right near his mouth and fend off the kids, teaching them only to pat under his chin, one at a time. Hazards of cute dog ownership . Hopefully the trainer types will be along shortly ...

What about a child gate permanently at the front door, between fly screen and main door? If you're tall enough, you can step over it. Many baby gates open like a gate, too.

It sounds like you are doing the best for your dog . Your child has to come first, of course! If that means the dog needs to be PTS, then you will do the right thing, I'm sure. No matter how awful it is an attack on your toddler is far worse. I've just been reading the thread about a newborn killed by the family dog . The aggression is there and you must act. I have kids and understand how quickly accidents can happen. I can no longer take my kids to see my parents unless their dog is elsewhere, after he attacked my dog unprovoked- we had them separated and their dog was even on-leash but one of the kids opened the front door, my dog slipped through --> . You could have toddler and dog securely separated, then another child/ visitor/ anyone forgets to close a gate or door ---> something awful happens. Cannot risk it! Best wishes.

I bought clippers here:http://www.freewebs.com/clipperbladesharpening/index.htm. Colin is also on DOL- Nicestmann77, so you could try PM'ing him. Very helpful. And no, I'm not related, invested or on commission . Perhaps I should be? Mine are the Saxon brand. I know a few other DOLers have them, too, but not the poodle people. I use these clippers on a mini and standard poodle (home use, pet trims) and am happy with them. They're 2 speed, though I'd be happy with single speed. Had them about a year. I didn't want to buy the more expensive ones until I was sure I'd continue to do it myself and confident I wasn't too clumsy to drop them. I may splurge on Andis next time. ETA: Your technique as well as thorough brushing, combing and drying before clipping all make a huge difference, more so than the clippers themselves IMO. The force dryers they have at the groomer's help blow-off a LOT of excess fur.

He's still a baby and sounds like he's going brilliantly. My first thought is to "catch him being good" during that very short time b4 he barks and carries on- treat and praise b4 the malarky starts, then work on extending the time he's well- behaved. Traingle of Temptation helped my dog behave much better tethered and sit-stay.

Also depends on where you take your dog. Obedience clubs and kennels have varying requirements for vaccination, so best to check this aspect out, also. Most are still requiring yearly vaccinations, though some clubs are accepting titre testing (within normal range). Sorry, I've lost the original link, but am sure you can google for it. I've skipped straight to the vaccination one (...) and added the bold + italic type:

Keep it up . It's hard with littler dogs as only a small amount of food makes such a big difference to them.

Is she both fussy and overweight? I understand you'd want your dog to have good nutrition, but it's safe to cut portion sizes quite dramatically while she needs to lose weight. Dogs don't have the same psychological issues with food as humans do. An otherwise healthy dog will eat what's put in front of them if they're hungry. If the food's refused, skip that meal and she will very quickly change the "fussy" habit. Mashed pumpkin is a lowcal filler.

I had a similar experience with adding a standard poodle pup when we had a 6 year old mini poodle. Mini had always got on well with other dogs, even when a friends dog was here for 6 weeks, but took about 4 weeks to really settle down with our new addition. He was even snappy with the pup at times- all show, no actual biting- fortunately. Now they're best of mates. It seemed to help that the mini has remained the boss, with the standard happy about it all. I tried to make sure not spend too much extra time with the pup- not the older dog- though they DO need extra time with toilet training etc. The older dog would also have walk time with me and the pup didn't come along. They're probably just settling in and getting used to the new arrangements. A trainer told me the older dog doesn't often realise the new dog is there to stay until about 6 weeks after their arrival.

This is a #5F body and legs . The "chicken legs" clip . Learn from my mistakes- I thought Oscar's legs would look neater and be easier . I hadn't trimmed head or tail yet in the photo. I agree with poodlefan- he'll look better with a little length on the legs and head- use scissors. Both my dogs are often down at the beach. As long as I keep paws, face, base of tail close clipped, I have minimal mess around the place and no mats. Perhaps the reason for mats is not brushing down to the skin? (I've made that mistake, too). As you brush with the slicker, part the fur with your other hand, so your brushing close to his skin. Then use a comb to check he's tangle free after brushing, also removes any extra dead hair left in coat after brushing.

I've taken advantage of the fact our standard likes to stick his head thru people's legs. Good way to hold him still with 2 hands available to get to the ears . A little ear powder helps you grab the hair, a little at a time.

You have to weigh up the risk of side effects vs. the risk of paralysis tick and heartworm (serious -->fatal). IMO the risks of paralysis tick outweighs the other possible risks with these products. But I'm keeping an open mind.

I suspect you'll be fighting a losing battle . It's natural that s/he would be attracted to chasing birds. Perhaps it would be best to confine the dog in another area when you're feeding the birds, if it's something you want to continue?

The "breeder" really should have told you about the high grooming needs of a MaltXPoodle. Have you looked at the Saxon clippers? They have 'proper' blades, compatible with the Oster and Andis and are less than $200 inc. post. HAve a look at the blade prices there, also, probably the cheapest you'll find and I find they're fine for home use. I'm only giving a pet owner perspective- The Saxon clippers sound fine for your needs. I don't have a dryer, so results are at best OK. Dryers give the best, fluffy finish. You could use a hand dryer with care (they're quick to burn the skin), but you won't have enough hands to dry and brush at the same time. I brush, comb and bath in the morning, brush and clip that afternoon once totally dry and tangle free. Purebreed poodles have a thicker coat than most poodleXs, so the fur is much more "forgiving" of a clip using no dryer. I don't mind the curlier look, though it feels less soft. It's a fair bit of work and the equipment is expensive, that's why groomers charge what they do.

I got my pup at about 10-11 weeks and had no problems with him being a little older. He was well-socialised at the breeder's .