Poodle wrangler

Leash to come inside, while you work on the "no lounge" training. Sort out leadership, and until that's sorted, no couch/ lounge for now. Not good for growing bones to be jumping up and down on them, either. I've never had to train a dog to come "up" on the lounge with me :rolleyes:. Call them, pat lounge and say, "up". It's rewarding because it's comfy and they get pats, so it's a no-brainer.

For a pet owner, hip scoring is quite expensive. I just had XRays done under general anaesthetic (knees) and it was about $240. Waiting until desexing is a great idea, but in my area, to wait until 12 months+ to desex means paying about $100 extra to register the dog with council. I think it's a lot to ask when the information is primarily for the breeder, with risk of death (however slim) of general anaesthetic to the dog. I'd be happy for the dog to have a thorough physical examination with the vet (wouldn't more severe hip dysplasia be apparent with this?) and would inform the breeder if any signs of problems became apparent as the dog got older.

http://www.dolforums.com.au/index.php?showtopic=113942

The dog doesn't know any better! You can't stop a dog chewing, but you can give them more suitable things to chew on e.g. raw bones, kong toys (or similar). Even adequately exercised and stimulated dogs will sometimes chew. Though you should make sure you're attending to this, too. If getting the project car out of the backyard is impractical, get the dog a run and use that. Better still, put the car bits in the dog run or fence them off.

;) eta: I only recently realised I use exactly the same tone with "good girl" (child) and "good dog!". Oh well, whatever works :rolleyes: !

About monthly here. Usually before a clip/ tidy up. Drying a poodle properly afterwards- sun then finish with a blowdryer- makes them smell nicer for longer. Their fur takes a while to get wet, but once it is, takes a while to dry, too. There are a few threads on dog vs. human shampoo. Showdog says they've been using human shampoo with good results for years, others disagree. I see no difference in my dogs, but don't have any better brands of dog shampoo. I reckon thorough rinsing and drying makes the greatest difference. JMHO.

I recently had XRays done on a 9 month standard poodle (~25kg) and had to be under general anaesthetic- about $240!

I'm not sure you need the small face comb, but will defer to more experienced groomers on that one. I've seen the Doggyman brand slickers in quite a few poodle showies' grooming kits (sticky beak, sorry). Dunno about that comb in particular- one like it is fine. I bought a whole lot of grooming stuff from the USA, but had to spend about $100 to make the postage worthwhile. Much cheaper gear there!!

Sorry I've not read all this thread, but have read previous ones about this weight problem. Has she had a blood test to exclude hypothyroidism? If she's not losing the weight, cut back portions further even if it only seems as if you're feeding a very small amount. It's deceptive with smaller dogs, too. Nutro isn't Nutrience. Different foods and companies.

Was the Previcox given with food? All the anti inflammatory medications need to be given with food (harsh on the stomach). It's very effective for pain, but perhaps you can reduce the dose after about 6 weeks? I think it takes about that long for supplements like Joint Guard to have a good effect. I think the medications are probably the lesser of 2 evils- pain and incontinence would be pretty awful for your dog to live with . Can you phone the vet with your concerns? Because you dog has more than one health problem and is on multiple medications/ supplements, I'd be quicker than normal to go to the vet for advice. Best wishes

I have one of the 'Doggyman' brand of slickers in the photo- it has the wire you describe, but the wires come out of a cushion which flexes to be more gentle. If I use it on my arm it leaves little scratch marks (but not painful). If press it into the skin it doesn't hurt. Does that make sense? Check out some other brands, but look for "extra soft" or "soft". Maybe start a thread and ask what brands other people use? The cheap supermarket ones are all too harsh (I bought one of those first ). Takes me ages to clip, too. I get at least a plastic shopping bag full of fur off the mini poodle. You can imagine what it's like with the standard!

If nothing seems to be working, join your local obedience club and have someone show you a technique to use. Always easier to explain that way. Then, use it every single time the dog mouths you. Zero tolerance. If you don't like a behaviour- make it unrewarding for the dog. If it's not working, the dog is still getting a reward of some kind, even if it's just your negative attention.

The tail wagging suggests its not aggression, but play. Bite or mouth? Probably mouthing, but the teeth marks are letting you know that the dog is playing too hard and needs to be taught otherwise . Mouthing for my larger pup never involved teeth marks, however, he was fed by his mother when he had lots of teeth and the breeder reckons this is very good as Mum teaches them not to bite her pretty damn quick. My dogs growl and bark when playing and also when the dominant dog is telling off the other, however the "tell off" is serious- no wagging tail and deliberate, slower movements.

I'm back... the tail! But his body looks nice. I like it ! When clippers get hot, take a break, get the fur out (old toothbrush) and oil them (Singer sewing oil, few drops). There are clipper and blade care tips here: http://www.freewebs.com/clipperbladesharpe...lipperhints.htm. Go to the poodle thread and check out Palane's #10 all over for a real shocker . He shows poodles!!! Blayd shouldn't have knots if you're brushing and combing him correctly. I found out I'd been doing it wrong for about 2 years b4 I came to DOL . He needs to be brushed and combed b4 bath and afterwards (b4 clipping). 1.Part the fur with one hand, so you slicker brush from skin outwards. 2.Use the comb to check there are no knots left. go right thru the fur. Normally you'll find some tangles and get some more fur off with the comb. Untangle as you would kid's hair. Brush and comb should look something like these (off Pet Network site, DOL advertiser). The comb is a "greyhound comb" (??why I don't know) and you use the wider spaced teeth, then the narrower ones (optional): Don't forget the length for #4 is shorter if you go against the fur growth. eta: DOL Poodle people have helped me a lot and given me this advice. I'm still learning, myself.

I think this is one to discuss with your vet- risks vs. benefits. Painful teeth would be awful, though. Certainly with older people, they take 2-3 days to recover from surgery with a GA and can be confused/ disorientated/ paranoid during that time. It's often a mix of GA + strong painkillers. I don't know if this applies to dogs and dental work isn't surgery, but worth asking your vet?

THereabouts. My poodle is 25kg, so it was $240 including a general anaesthetic. Hopefully sedation will be enough with a smaller dog. Vet prices vary greatly and it's best to get a clear quote beforehand.

Cross luxating patella off the list, then. I'd see a vet again, preferably one that has experience with orthopaedic work with dogs. Keep pup rested/ quiet.

I've just had a standard poodle diagnosed with a luxating patella (kneecap slips in and out) though it's more common in smaller dogs. It can also be caused by injury. It's only hind legs that are affected and they hold up the leg (high off the ground) then seem OK shortly afterwards. I don't know that this sounds like it, but which leg? In the meantime I'd ensure pup has rest, no playing as this is the worst kind of exercise- twisting, sudden changes of direction etc. Agree that you need to see the vet again. What area are you in? Can a DOLer recommend a vet to you? I had XRays done last week and should warn you it was over $200 as a general anaesthetic was needed. Sometimes they can just sedate a smaller dog. I learned they can diagnose a luxating patella in the clinic and XRAys aren't necessary to diagnose- vet can pop the kneecap in and out by hand and feel how easy/ difficult it is.

THe link worked, but where the info. is isn't obvious. A good reason for your vet to prescribe everything you give your dog- they should know all the reasons NOT to give any medication, too. Not every dog should be on Rimadyl, but my toes curl every time I see people say they "don't want to give their dog antinflammatories" (not the OP!). Under the right circumstances, they can give a lot of relief from pain to our dogs. I work with humans with osteoarthritis who have to stop antinflammatories before hip/ knee replacement surgery- they are in a LOT of extra pain because of this.

Pics, please?

Mine aren't fatty, so I give them as is.

It's a training, not an age issue at the age of these dogs. I was taught to say and no and press the dog's lips onto their teeth- not too hard, just to send the message, but that was years ago and there are probably better ways. Desexing can help reduce tensions/ hormonal problems if they're not already.

Hopefully a trainer will be in soon for a proper definition (oops, Erny's here, slow typing, sorry) but my understanding is that mouthing is a playful activity whereas a bite has none of this playful aspect- is deliberate and dog is quieter/ watchful/ fearful/ aggressive. I'm not sure how you'd mistake the difference, but perhaps you're thinking of a scenario I've not thought of?

I'm unclear about exactly what "down on pasterns" means . Anyone got a pic? I added some pet mince and bones to our pups diet (no fibre there) to reduce a loose poo issue, but that might be conterproductive, given your previous problem . Might be a case of the least bad option?

Can you add in an extra meal? e.g. 3 meals a day? Avoid fatty foods for calories because of the risk of pancreatitis (potentially fatal). Have a look here: e.g. satin balls recipe http://www.dolforums.com.au/index.php?showtopic=81686 You're better getting the weight on gradually which it sounds like you're doing