Poodle wrangler

I don't think a bristle brush will allow you to get through the coat . I know it wouldn't get thru a poodle coat, for sure! With the slicker- run it up your arm- it should leave little marks, but not be painful.

Is #7 too short for spring-summer? I've always clipped the mini poodle #5F in the past, so haven't gone this short b4. The #7 is for the apricot standard poodle who seems to feel the heat. He hasn't got the best poodle coat (wavier, less dense). I clip his belly with a #10. Thanks.

I haven't had a Maltese before, but would guess that a bath at the groomer's would be sufficient if it was every 4-6 weeks and pup didn't get especially dirty. I only bath our poodles about monthly (pre-clip) and they go to beach, bushwalk, indoor-outdoor dogs. What does your breeder suggest?

The paws may be an allergy? It's possible that a change of diet might help, but he may need something else in the meantime?

Don't ask a vet. There was someone filling in at our local vet's and they told me NOT to use a slicker on a poodle . (Wrong!!). You need a soft or very soft slicker (they also make firm ones suitbale for dogs wit undercoat etc.). Those Gripsoft ones come in both, so which is yours? Using the slicker, you must part the fur, so you brush from skin outwards. If you run it through only the top layer(s) of fur, there will still be knots underneath. After using the slicker, use a "greyhound" metal comb, or a "coarse" comb to check for knots and get any extra dead fur left in the coat. Pet Network sell these ones:

I don't see how the vet could know for sure that the dog had been kicked. I've seen a dog run full pelt into a medium-size concrete pot plant and another at training had vet care after wrapping himself around the Hills Hoist. Very sad that he's had an injury :rolleyes:. I'd be very distressed, too (and suspicious).

Sorry for hijack, but WOW I never knew that! Goodluck convincing her otherwise anita :rolleyes: Hope I didn't give the wrong impression- poodles aren't really high maintenance in shorter pet clips. I only need to brush my pet poodles once or twice a week and they're inside-outside dogs, go bushwalking, beach etc. Clip every 4-6 weeks. Most poodleXs are more high maintenance IMO. They're harder to clip, too.

I think the ideal is 3 times a day (smaller meals), but many dogs do well with 2X/ day. Important not to overfeed a growing, large-breed dog. Fast growth can promote bone problems. A large breed puppy formula (if you feed dry) would be ideal, but many of the adult formulas are almost the same. Check the packet. You want less calories and protein than the average puppy food for a large breed pup :rolleyes:.

Is that because they have an undercoat? I think the firmer also suits some terriers, but I'd never buy one without a recommendation from a good groomer or breeder.

:thumbsup: Can you show her a link to Leo's Story? I really hope you can convince her not to buy one of these BYB/ puppy farmed dogs :rolleyes:. You wouldn't wish to support these people and it may mean heartbreak for her with a dog with multiple problems. I've got poodles and have groomed a labXpoodle that lived with us for 6 weeks. The fact that you're mixing a poodle and cocker will result in a dog with high grooming needs, regardless. Poodles shed fur, but it gets caught up in their coat making brushing necessary to avoid matts and discomfort to dog. More accurate to say poodles don't "drop fur". What happens when you mix in another breed is that you get a wide variety of types of coats. Most will need a lot of care- those that shed less, need more clipping. Shed more, still need clipping and more brushing to avoid matts. For this reason, it's pointless to get too hung up on which kind of cocker it's mixed with. Also, many pups have a coat change at around a year old and the coat texture can change at that time. For a clip, you can expect to pay $50-75 each time if dog is kept brushed, depending on the groomer and where you live.

I'm not sure that wearing the nails down will hurt him as it's gradual and the "quick" will recede. Having seen our dog limping (kneecap dislocated), I can understand you feel distressed thinking he's in pain. This is one for an experienced vet to decide, though. Does the vet think he's in pain? The "shoe" sounds like a great idea. I would try pain relief medication, prescribed by the vet (if they thought it necessary), fro several weeks before considering amputation. My cousin has a paraplegic cat (car accident) that drags it's back legs about with no problems- doesn't seem to be in pain and seems 100% happy. Owner was thinking she'd have to PTS but why would you when cat is coping well and seems happy? Vet agrees cat is in good health. Other people's reactions are interesting- some think she's "cruel". I think the disability offends them. Have to be careful not to put our own human ideas onto animals.

I'd limit his access in the house, so that you can always watch him if he's inside. If you can't watch him, put him in his crate or outside. THere must be no opportunity for "secret" poops . The more accidents you allow inside, the longer it will take. When do you take him outside? Should be after a sleep, after food/ drink, hourly, or if he starts to sniff and circle. Set an hourly alarm, if necessary (not overnight, of course). Sometimes a walk around can help 'get things moving'. I used to walk our pup around the front, up the driveway, then say, "wee- wee" and treat and praise when he did it. Leave him on a long leash. HAve a treat ready for when he performs, name it (e.g. "go toilet" (happy voice - hard at 5AM_ as he's going). Give treat and praise or "Yes" asap. If he doesn't go while you're outside, wait, then walk, then wait some more and pretend to be interested in the grass. "Naming it"- pick any word ("wee-wee" is daft, but the first thing I thought of) makes it much quicker as he starts to learn. THe half hour toilet stops will be shorter once he knows what's expected e.g. I take our dog to his normal toileting spot before going out in the car, say "wee-wee" and he does it!

The fatty offcuts can also cause pancreatitis which can be fatal. Quite a few DOLers would suggest high quality, higher price dry foods like Eagle Pack, Nutro, Royal Canin etc. You should be able to get samples. I feed a lower quality dry food (Purina One) from supermarket (about $27 for 7 kg) but add raw bones (mostly Brisket), chicken wings, small amount roo mince etc. Purina was refunding the price of your first 1.5- 4.0kg bag of food as a promotion, if you check out their website. I think Optimum (another supermarket food) is doing something similar. As long as your pup is looking healthy- bright eyes, active, good weight, poos normal- keep up whatever works.

I actually had the breeder evaluate my pup's weight- really helpful as our poodle pup still had a thick coat and I'd been warned about not overfeeding large breed pups (turned out I was underfeeding ) . Only practical if they're not too far away....

Usual advice is no walks outside of home until about 10 days after 2nd vaccinations. It'll be on your vacc. card when this is due. Drontal Allwormer- dose by weight- can buy from vet, usually. Start him on a lead anytime. Light lead for pup. They can wear it and just drag it about for a few minutes each day to get used to it. Any longer and it will be chewed. First lead walks in the house or backyard. You can start with no leash and play "follow me"- use a toy or food to get pup to follow. When when you attach the leash, again lure with food or toy- pup should already have the right idea.

Sorry, can't help, but often promotions are run (RSPCA, local councils) for desexing pets. Usually discounts only for pensioners, unemployed, students etc. Puppy preschools are great if you're new to dogs or have no other dogs to socialise pup with (off-leash parks are NOT the place unless you know all the other dogs well). It's much cheaper to buy a good book and do a little training at home and socialise your pup elsewhere. Don't leave it too late. Then, join a local obedience club at 16 weeks of age and start there. I'm not in your area, but it was $85 for a yearly membership+ 10 week beginner class, then $3/ week after that. Much cheaper than shorter puppy classes. If you can toilet train, you can certainly teach your dog to sit, drop, and watch you. Check out "Triangle of Temptation" in the Training subforum- great place to start- and free!

Minced meat with veg ISN'T BARF (Biologically Appropriate Raw Food)- there are lots of threads about BARF if you do a search. http://www.drianbillinghurst.com/what_is_barf.html It's based more on raw meaty bones and offal- basically more like what a dog might eat 'in the wild'. A dog that doesn't eat raw meat can't be too hungry, IMO. If he eats only half breakfast, put it in the fridge and give it back later that day. Healthy dogs don't starve themselves.

Does she like her food? Try having the leash in your right hand (dog on left side of you) and food in your left hand- near her nose- to "lure" her into walking with you. After a few steps, reward her with the food. Stretch out the time before you give her the food- she MUST be doing the right thing when you give it to her. Practice for only a couple of minutes at a time and end with her doing the right thing, "good dog!" Do it once or twice a day and gradually build up the time.

Pound pups and dogs should have all their worming up to date. I worm our dogs monthly.

Ah, yes. I get them, too. I'm sure he'll be fine. Quite time consuming to pluck out of their coats, too

Website I read said was OK for pups over 3 months. Advantix or Frontline Plus will do the job until then, but you have to apply fortnightly to cover for paralysis tick. Monthly covers fleas only.

I've broken a tooth off one and I occasionally use it with caution- it would be easier to "nick" the dogs with it. Check out here: http://www.freewebs.com/clipperbladesharpening/index.htm I'm not sure if he sells the right blades for you, but they do sharpening etc. and he'll soon tell you whether or not they can be fixed. Send a photo. I've bought blades and clippers and he's really helpful. On DOL, too: nicestmann77. Good luck.

Thanks, guys . I didn't want to just take their word for it because their dogs are so poorly cared for e.g. they didn't know puppies needed worming and wondered why it ate so much but was so skinny .

Have you established it's the fleas that are causing the itching? Not saying it cannot happen, but seems strange that none of the products are working. Do you use them strictly per instructions? Washed all dog/ human bedding (if dog in bed with you)? Regular vacuuming etc? This is from the Sentinet website: http://www.sentinelspectrum.novartis.com.a...alth-fleas.html. Brushing down to the skin and combing dogs regularly can help keep their coats free of pollens etc. What do you bath them with? Sometimes if you don't rinse very thoroughly, it can irritate dog's skin.

I didn't start clipping my poodle until he was about 4 years old and was lucky to have a good groomer who charged very little. He's now 6 and I've had some practice, but you should have seen the first clip I did on our standard poodle pup- I didn't even get to do his whole face . I was firm, but he was not very co-operative . The breeder did him for me, then I got back on track. It's easier when you have a shape to follow. She was good and had him used to clippers, brushing and combing as a pup. She's quite wooly and definitely needs a clip . The main areas where you can hurt the dog is clipping the face, paws, "underarms" (loose skin) and genitals. I don't think you could do much damage if you're very careful in these areas and #4 and #3 don't cut very close. You might be safer finishing with scissors. Up to you, but if you do DIY, find a stable, non-slip surface for pup to stand on e.g. non-slip mat on washing machine and make sure they will not fall off/ jump off. Dirt will make blades blunt, so you should bath and thoroughly dry and brush/ comb pup before clipping. Longer blades (like #3) won't pass easily through knotted fur. Good prices for scissors and blades here: http://www.freewebs.com/clipperbladesharpe...ipperblades.htm. I find these are good for home use. The guy who sells them is Colin on DOL: nicestmann77. Used to be a groomer, so may be able to offer some good advice, too. Was helpful to me when starting out (wasn't buying anything).