Poodle wrangler

That's another thing! I work with human hip replacement patients and have seen some poor results despite good care, physio, patient being very co-operative etc. Problems included infection, problems with the new "joint", dislocations, life-threatening medical problems as a result of surgery (blood clots, stroke, chest infections), unexpected death... You don't see these complications discussed much on forums. Some people seem to think you have the procedure done, pay the money and it'll all be OK . ShellyBeggs and Staffyluv- sorry to hear of your dog's illnesses. Sounds like ShellyBeggs' dog died in the best way possible No criticism of you intended Staffyluv- you're the only one who can make these decisions. This $11,000 dog had bitten a child and lives with one. I've decided if my dog does have hip problems, I could afford ~$8,000 for an op. He may need on op for luxating patellas (~$1000) and I'd do that. I don't think I'd do hips, however, because it's such a major procedure (with more risks) and I have a young family. I couldn't spend that much money on our dog in good conscience (it'd come out of the mortgage). I'd give him pain relief medications/ injections for as long as they seemed to give him enough pain relief, do hydrotherapy, other non-invasive treatments. When it was obvious he couldn't cope well, then I'd take him to be PTS and stay with him throughout. Distressing to think about, but I think that would be best for him, too. I've learnt my lesson and will ensure I get full hip scores from the breeder next time (still no guarantee, but better odds.).

I've given this sort of thing some thought as I'm suspicious our pup may have hip problems. You have to draw a line somewhere. $11,000 is over the line for me, as much as I hate to admit it and as much as I love my dog. My dog hasn't got any major behavioural problems.

I was looking at a UK dog forum and someone was asking for advice on whether or not to do this op on their 9 month old rescue MastiffX with severe hip dysplasia. The equivalent of $11,000 (GBP 5,000) was the minimum cost quoted by the vet. Then, the poster mentions they've been seeing a trainer for "aggression", separation anxiety ("barking for hours when they go out") and dog has "nipped" their nephew and seems "overprotective" of them :D. Is it just me who thinks they're mad? Not only to spend so much money, but to put a dog with an uncertain future through such major surgery?

What you're describing is a training issue, not one of temperament. Is it biting or mouthing? Training needs only to be about 10 minutes per day. Though now you have this problem, it will take extra time/ hassle to ensure dog and child are separated. Talk to your breeder about what's going on and ask about possibly returning the dog if you're not able to put some time into training. At least you're being honest and saying you're not willing to train. Better to look at other options now rather than months down the track when behaviour is worse, or someone demands the dog is PTS. You're right- it's not OK for a dog to be biting a child- but this does seem to be fixable judging purely from what you've said. It may not be, but only a trainer who sees your dog and family could establish this.

When you're trying to lure him out the gate with a treat, make it something irresistible e.g. bits of chicken. Always easier to train with food when pup's hungry, too. It's bad for a pup's growth to overfeed. Fat labs (even puppies) aren't healthy. The amount on the packet is only a guide- you have to adjust according to how pup looks- you should be able to feel his ribs easily, but not see all of them. Have a look at Triangle of Temptation in the Training subforum- pinned to the top- only takes 5 minutes to do at mealtime and will cure the jumping up and going beserk within days if done correctly. Can't recommend it enough and so simple to do. Print it out and refer to it as it's best done correctly. Good luck. He sounds like a normal lab puppy to me :D.

I've been using Advantix for about 3-4 years, no problems. Effective. Another option is a tick collar e.g. Preventix. Especially since you've already got fleas covered with the Advantage. Collars are also much cheaper. Reason I don't use them is dogs are always being hugged by my kids (and me) and I don't like the idea of anti-tick stuff on them/us.

hannahh, I work with sick people, not dogs, but am guessing some things apply to both. If a person has kidney problems, their blood tests, urine output, fluid intake are closely monitored and measured. A urine test to tell you they're OK to take off the drip? Haven't heard of that. In humans, the drip is taken down when they can take enough fluids by mouth. Kidney damage isn't reversible with a drip, though a drip is used to make sure they get enough fluids in. The only treatment I'm aware of is the antivenom and "supportive measures" e.g. the drip for fluids. Should he have stayed on the drip longer? You were pushing fluids. Don't know. My mother has kidney failure and her fluids are restricted. A vet hospital is full of sick dogs, so there were risks to leaving him there, too. Vet and medical treatments can be very confusing. You don't have a vet's degree, do you? It sounds like you did all you could. Ask the vet all your questions, so that you can put your mind at rest and continue to grieve your sad loss .

I like Triangle of Temptation, too . Takes < 5 minutes to build this in to feeding your dog. I've been really impressed with the results. I really like how it takes nothing away from the dog- teaches in a positive way Consistency is really important for your dog. Even more so if a rescue- will give them security. Some people think training your dog and being a good leader is somehow a bit mean-spirited. The dog doesn't see it this way, though. Pups need a leader- you. Otherwise they take the stressful role of leader on for themselves and this is often the start of friction and difficulties with your dog, rather than a happy relationship. Rescues need strong leadership and consistency so they feel safe and come to know what's expected all the time in their new home.

I found a short walk on leash outside helped get things moving. Also the command word.

Your cocker sounds like a normal dog who needs some training. My 10-month old standard poodle pup used to run, jump up and mouth my son who only encouraged him, No biting, however. I banned the game because the dog was learning very bad habits. They were having fun, but it was training him to chase, jump up on and mouth kids who run. He's 25kg! You don't want to do obedience with the dog ;) ? THat's a shame, because it improves your relationship with the dog and helps them understand what you're talking about. A trained dog is so much better to live with. Takes nothing away from the dog's personality.

If the eardrums are perforated, I'd ask the vet for advice before using anything other than what's prescribed. Malaseb (antibacterial-antifungal shampoo) diluted 1:50 with water is a good ear cleaner and suitable for mild infections. But with perforated eardrums, I'd ask the vet first!

HAve a look at Triangle of Temptation (TOT) in the Training subforum- pinned to the top. Great program, takes only 5 minutes to do and you have to feed your dog, anyway!

I'd just wait until puppy class.

Perhaps you could say that the breeder is interested if the vet suspects congenital kidney problems. Not a bad idea to phone the breeder, anyway, to let them know the sad news and the vet's theory re. possible kidney disease. Breeder may be able to give you more info. about it. Were any blood tests done if dog was desexed at an earlier age? (usually an optional extra). This would give you a baseline. Good luck with it and sorry to hear the sad news. I'm not sure why a good vet would not share information with you, if asked in a non-accusing, constructive way :D ? Sadly, a friend of my Mum's lost their much-loved GSD with a kidney disorder at only 3 years (no snakebite). They were just very unfortunate as the dog was from a registered breeder who did health testing. Health testing reduces the odds of problems, but there are never any guarantees with a living creature.

I reckon it's a sad day when you can't give a dog a bone!

Try Ebay. You should be able to get one for about $145 or less. I paid about that for an XL one from a pet shop. The plastic ones are designed for air travel. The wire type are heavy, but better ventilated and more suitable for every day use.

I think most owners are well-intentioned, but don't understand how the coat works and what's needed with grooming. At the moment, one of my poodles has a quite a few knots down the legs. Temptation is to just clip it off when I really need to do a better job of brushing and combing him .

My dog was a bit sleepy the night we brought him home, but other than that and the stitches, you'd not know he'd even had on operation. Our vet has an info sheet all about aftercare. I took home an elizabethan collar, just in case, but didn't need it- he left the stitches alone.

I'd let him out at least once overnight, maybe twice? Does he make some noise when he needs to go? I'm not exactly sure when they can hang on all night as both my poodles sleep outside. Use the crate until you consider him 100% toilet trained. As long as your leadership is good, and you're consistent, that could be only a few weeks away. Crate is still very handy for the car (easier to clean vomit from a crate), visiting friends, trips away etc.

I hope it's not this, also. No experience with it, but I guess you can have all the treatment in the world if your pockets are deep enough. I guess you'd have to be realistic and look at the affordability of treatment vs. benefit to Aniken. I would want my dog to have a fair quality of life, even if that meant it was shorter. Sounds like a lot of blood tests will be required. I don't think it's cruel to PTS if treatment is unaffordable with many blood tests and medication causing unpleasant side effects for the dog. It sounds controllable, not curable

I second the fish oil. Get rid of all the dead coat, too- I'm not sure what brush/ comb is best for a GSD, sorry. I know I find pollen in my dog's coats, so brushing and combing it out helps. One of my dogs has slightly gunky eyes (normally clear)- someone here suggested a used, cooled tea bag was good for cleaning eyes (don't know myself). I just use a warm wet tissue. A hydrobath and force dry would blow off a lot of that dead coat, too. If the itchies get really out of hand, I'd try an antihistamine from the vet. They sometimes prescribe steroids, but I'd only give it if my dog was demented with the itch (effective drug, but lots of side effects).

I automatically check over my dogs, too. When they get pats, I feel through their coats for ticks/ lumps/ bumps and check ears (maybe pluck some fur out). I'd check their teeth about once a week. It's become a habit. Last time I went to the FIL's he said, "I didn't realise the dog's were going to get an inspection" Today, I found myself wanting to do the ears of a toy poodle I had in my lap. It was only the gunkiness of the ears and the lack of a tissue that stopped me.

Keep up the good work!

Useful advice I got was: NEVER call a puppy to tell them off/ punish them. CHasing- as you say, pup thinks it's a great game Instead, say a firm "No!". Take a breath. Then call pup using a treat as a bribe (make it a good one). Sounds like crate training would be good for you. Labs have a long puppyhood. Add up the cost of what pup chews in a week, then see how cheap that crate looks by comparison .

When you flip the ear leather back, I clip very short, very close to the opening of the ear- better ear ventilation, also. As the ear then flops over, you don't see it. I'd also clip all the fur off under the pads. Sounds like where you live is similar to here- my poodles go bushwalking, beach etc. no problems. The slicker brush is also our friend . I'm lucky it's traditional to totally shave the paws and face on a poodle.