Poodle wrangler

Have a look up inside the roof of his mouth- easy to get part of a stick stuck up there. Will get stinky. My bigger dog had a big chunk of stick stuck there and gave no sign it was there (I looked in his mouth after he'd been bitten by another dog). I find bones are great for keeping the dog's teeth white and healthy-looking.

Beautiful dogs. I'd suggest a KONG chew toy stuffed with a bit of peanut butter (or other foods) for him to chew. Brisket bones are good as they can eat the whole lot. The only real solution to the washing problem is to separate dog from washing. It's too rewarding for him to play with it. Some have rigged water bomb booby traps, but I'd just get a dog run or one of those large indoor clotheslines for sheets etc. He sounds like a normal puppy, but it's never to early to train. Your local obedience club will need to see his vaccination certificates, so it would be great if you can get as much info. as possible from previous owners. Even if they've done zero vaccs, at least you'll know.

If he's not thin, I wouldn't worry about him not eating at this stage. from DOL Breed Pages: http://www.dogzonline.com.au/breeds/inform...n/shiba-inu.asp What you feed depends on budget, but Chum is poor quality food. Give it to a local rescue and start again. I found Purina One is a reasonable dry food from the supermarket- about $28 for 7kg. I also feed raw foods like brisket bones, chicken wings, chicken carcasses. What state are you in? eta: Microchipping compulsory in NSW. Do you have some paperwork for him e.g. Microchipped? Vaccinated? Registered with council etc.? If he's m'chipped you'll have to have his ownership changed over officially, otherwise you can have him m'chipped when you take him to the vet (about $40). Other things to consider: * Heartworm. If status is unknown he'll need a blood test before starting tablets for prevention. * Intestinal worming * Flea prevention * Tick prevention, if you're in a tick prone area * Desexing. Reckon a vet check is a good idea. Don't buy the stuff there, though. Better prices at http://www.pricelesspets.com.au/products.php3?page=prod

Thanks, everyone! I have one of those combs with rotating teeth- I'll give it a try. Now his coat's shorter, it might go thru. The prongs are a bit too short on the comb for longer fur on the poodles. This is what happens PoodleMum if you go to the beach and air dry too often . No, not really- It's my slackness with failing to brush and comb down to the skin! My fault entirely. It's not so bad he needs an all-over clip, but I'll do his legs shorter again next time. I'm not encouraged by the combing- he actually looks worse, but I know it's what's needed. I'm being gentle and he's a good dog. He get's a bit tired standing up, so I let him lay on his side, too. Hard work all that standing upright .

Problem hips are thought to be a combination of genetics (crossbreeds will have no hip testing), exercise and diet. General advice for large breeds is not to overexercise- shorter walks, avoid jumping up and down off lounges etc. Basically avoid anything that's hard on growing bones. Diet-wise- you want slow, steady growth, so normal high protein puppy formulas aren't suitable. There are large breed formulas, or even an adult one would be preferable. Brisket bones etc. for calcium. Can you take her to obedience? She should be old enough now. Have to train her not to jump up on anyone. Not to lick anyone etc. Being consistent makes it easier for her to learn. Totally agree with The Spotted Devil- Rescues need more firmness (firm, but fair, not harsh) and consistency than the average dog. Worst thing to do is "spoil" a rescue because you feel sorry for them.

Sitting and waiting for an OK isn't the same as TOT. When your dog sits and waits is she looking at the food or you? TOT teaches them to look at YOU. It's obvious from the behaviours you describe that your dog is not looking to you enough! You don't have to tie her out the back. I started to do this with the dog on leash, clipped to the back porch. You could start doing it in a large room as long as you have something to tie the dog's leash to. Healthy dogs with healthy teeth will not starve themselves. Stop hand feeding and do TOT EXACTLY as described. If your dog is not eating meals within 15-20 minutes, but health and teeth are fine, take the food away and give it back for the next meal, using TOT. Dog will soon get the right idea- that YOU are in charge of food, not her. Don't offer anything other than the what you put out in the first place, unless you want a fussy eater and lots of wasted food . This dog has you trained and it's time to establish some leadership. You'll end up with a problem dog instead of a great companion, otherwise . Dogs are more stressed, not less, without a good leader. You get what you put in to a dog.

I've only had some experience with the human kind. In general, auto-immune diseases are complicated to treat. They're not curable- so it's all about treating the symptoms. Lots of trial and error, so frequent vet visits and changes to medication It tends to go in cycles of being OK, then flare-ups. Steroid medications like Macrolone can give great results while the dog's on the drug, but have lots of side effects (weight gain, reduced immunity etc.). You have to weigh this up against the distress caused by the autoimmune disease. I'm not suggesting he doesn't have Macrolone at all. Talk it over with the vet as stopping these medications suddenly can cause major problems- they have to be weaned gradually. Best wishes for you and your kelpie.

I chose to go for monthly tablets, for the reasons others have talked about. Whether or not tablets are cheaper depends on the size of the dog. When I looked at it, the difference was minimal. Check pricelesspets.com.au for prices on the tablets.

Frontline Plus (freebie from vet) failed to work for fleas for me, too. I use Advantix. She won't be doubling up as it does not do heartworm. Only ticks, mozzies, fleas. Does your Mum live in a tick area? If so, consider fortnightly dosage as this is needed for paralysis tick. A cheaper alternative is a tick collar. Try pricelesspets.com.au.

I've let Charlie's coat get quite tangled (avatar dog) . He's had one too many trips to the beach without a down-to-skin brush out & comb. I'm using a slicker and greyhound comb (coarse end), but was wondering if there's anything that's easier to use? Or, should I just plough on? I'm parting the fur, and brushing and combing down to the skin. Lesson learnt- brush & comb more often, so it doesn't take so long! It took me >1/2 hour just to do his head, body and half the front legs. He's not matted. I hate to think how long it takes groomers to deal with that on a large dog

YouTube vid of a woman dremelling her Dogo Argentino's .I'm not sure she's doing it quite right, though, as the dogs have a few squeals. I don't have it running that fast. Are the nails really long? If so, maybe the vet can clip and cauterize the quick under sedation. Don't know how others go, but I have to do my dog's nails about every 10 days, just to keep up with growth, let alone get the quick to recede. They don't often walk on roads, mostly grass, sand, dirt tracks.

About where/ how to feed your dog---> do Triangle of Temptation (TOT): http://www.dolforums.com.au/index.php?showtopic=64101 for every meal. It's FREE. It takes only an extra 5 minutes to do and teaches sit, stay, okay- and most importantly- for the dog to look to you above food. YOU are the source of good things. Go for it. I found it helpful to print it out, read through several times and do a "dummy run" before I even got near the pup, but I'm a bit slow . You don't have to even understand the theory- but do need to do it EXACTLY as described for best results. Myska has even done a video, minus the leash/ rope. About the puppy school: Many vet nurses are excellent and DO have some knowledge and/or qualifications in dog training, but many likewise DON'T! At some vets, the puppy preschool is an extension of the vet nurses jobs. Good money for the surgery, given the low wages of vet nurses . If a behaviourist isn't an option at present, you have some ideas here to sort through. Also have a suggestion for a book & DVD. Good luck. I'm sure pup will come right with the right guidance. She's still only a "baby" and needs the same consistency and routine, just not as much "spoiling"

Ah, she has you trained . I guess around 7 months might be adolescence in a smaller breed, desexed? But is the lack of respect new? or ongoing? My standard poodle seemed to develop selective deafness at about 9 months of age, but is back to normal with going back to basics training-wise and being consistent. Whether or not it's lack of respect or adolescent troubles is academic as the treatment is the same: Training Consistency Leadership (this does not mean being mean or military-like). Do you do Triangle of Temptation (TOT) with your dog? It's a basic training program pinned at the top of the Training subforum: http://www.dolforums.com.au/index.php?showtopic=64101. You don't have to worry too much about the theory, but must do it EXACTLY as described to get best results. Is a great place to start and only takes 5 minutes extra to do at mealtime. Now you've got a place to start. You'll have no reason to get frustrated because the dog is on a leash or rope as backup. The dog has to eat at some stage, too.

I knew it- she sounded like that. This is a client you can do without. Tell her when you're next appointment is available and cost- "not negotiable". Say in a happy, upbeat way that you "won't be at all offended" if she gets someone else to groom for her. I had a friend who had his own business and people would ring up demanding appts. that same day. He got good at saying, "No". Invariably it was because they'd failed to have follow-up, not taken his advice in the first place, "forgot" to make an appt., or had waited until it was so bad that they definitely needed to see him. He'd just laugh about it: "An emergency in their own minds". It was extremely rare for a regular, co-operative client to need an appt like that. eta: Apply dog training principles- be a leader, be consistent :wink: !

Our next door neighbour is an electrician and I ask them to do jobs for us. I knock on the door (at reasonable hours) but only to make an appointment. I think you should just say that you work by appointment only and never groom Sundays, evenings, whenever you don't want to do their dog. Does she expect "mates rates", too ? It's not as if someone gets a "grooming emergency" :rolleyes: I think you can firmly say, "No", without being rude. If you don't, you'll only encourage them to do it again. I don't think people realise how much work is involved in grooming! I only do my 2 poodles (imperfectly) and that's enough for me!

Vomiting 4+ times in one day? I'd have taken him to the vet for my own piece of mind. Drinking water shouldn't make him vomit. He'll now need to replace some fluids. Hope he's fine. Could he have eaten something poisonous in the backyard?

From what I've read, there are many factors involved with bloat, including a hereditary component. Interesting article, not specific to poodles. Standard poodles are a deep-chested breed and can get bloat http://www.poodlesinaustralia.com/health/health18.html. High fat dry foods (fat in the top 4 ingredients) and dry foods containing citric acid were associated with an increased risk of bloat in the study above.

YES! I use about 5 good drops on a miniature poodle's ears- should be enough that you get that "squishing" noise when you massage the base of the ear, but no need to drown the ears. eta: If in doubt, have them checked at the vet. You don't want to be squirting solution into a burst eardrum.

Sorry, I get blades from http://www.freewebs.com/clipperbladesharpening/index.htm, but they don't have the brand you're after listed. Colin is on DOL: nicestmann77- might be able to tell you who supplies them? Otherwise, the AUS$ is strong against the USD- try there?

I agree not to change his diet so soon after his arrival. He's only been with you a few days and is probably still settling in. Just continue with the breeder's diet recommendations. What he doesn't eat after 15-20 minutes, take away and give it back at the next meal. Sometimes dogs eat grass to settle their stomachs. It's not uncommon to have digestive upset in the first few days in a new home. If he has energy, poops look normal, drinking water etc. don't worry at all. If you want to change his diet, wait another week or so, and do it gradually over about 4-5 days. If he seems good on what's he's on, leave it, is my advice. I do like to add some raw foods like chicken necks/ wings, brisket bones etc. Go slow!

Hope your labs recover well. Temperatures aren't that bad in of themselves- actually help kill off viruses and bacteria. Great to hear he's drinking well while he has a fever.

Being bright blood suggest something toward the end of his digestive system. Relieved you got him to the vet. Been a couple of threads recently where owners have come to DOL first

I think alanglen's a vet. Yes, a bit harsh, but some good points, too. A friend is a vet and is driven to despair by people trying to save money- he reckons many people will PTS a young dog with excellent prospects of recovery, rather than spend $200. Often the $200 is for medication etc. that the vet can't just do for free for the sake of the dog. Not saying saintlysusan is like this at all, but perhaps alanglen has had similar experiences I think because of Medicare and the PBS, we are sheltered from the true cost of medical care for us, so vet care prices come as a shock. I feel it's my responsibility as an owner to be able to control my dog to be examined. OK, I don't have a 70kg dog. My biggest dog is only 25kg, but he allowed the vet to dislocate his kneecaps without drama (zero sedation). Part of the training I do is that they'll stand, sit, drop, stay and tolerate being touched all over, including paws and ears. I was very aware of the extra costs of a large breed (let alone a giant breed!) dog. Vet care as well as any tick/flea/ heartworm preventatives, bedding, food etc. Many, many great vets out there, but like any profession some are better than others. Good luck with it all saintlysusan

I buy pet grade brisket bones, chicken carcasses, and occasionally roo or semi-lean mince. One of my dogs is a large breed. I'd buy human grade if I had only a small breed dog. I'm not sure about the chicken necks I buy at the supermarket- can't imagine any humans wanting to eat them, but they're not labelled "pet".

My mini poodle has killed a bird and I suspect would also kill a chicken, given the opportunity. Not the stereotypical killer dog . Don't believe what you hear about a dog being "blooded". He will kill another chicken, given the opportunity, as they are prey-food to him. This is normal dog behaviour. Does NOT mean he's vicious in any way with people/ all other animals. Your dog did NOT know what he did was wrong. He only knew that it's humans were angry with him. He's a dog and thinks like a dog, not a child. You have kids...they never open the chicken coup? If this is causing you stress, with baby on the way and a young family, then give away the chickens. Your rotti might also eat one, given the opportunity.