Poodle wrangler

How about raw brisket bones- good to chew on and he can eat the lot. Have to deduct it from his daily food intake. Do you like to feed the wet food? I'd probably give it a miss. Most canned foods are higher in sugar.

Sounds better. You can do TOT with just a leash in the beginning. Keep being consistent and I'm sure you'll see results. It's similar to kids- the consistency is important, otherwise they just keep testing the limits all the time.

Are you planning to arrange anything else for during the day for him? e.g. dog walker for a short walk (only short walks for large breed pups). Might be quite a shock to him, otherwise?

When you say, "work full-time", how long will the pup/ dog be home alone for on the average week? Dogs are pack animals who need company, so you have to be realistic and think whether or not you're being fair to a dog/pup, leaving them at home alone for 8-10 hours/ day, 5 days a week. It's good you're thinking about it . Bored, lonely pups whine, cry, bark and destroy things. The neighbours won't be impressed. Pups don't need a 1/2 hour walk, but a walker who will play for a while, 15 minute walk and feed pup would be helpful to help break up the day. Many people here work full-time, but many have more than one dog, also. I have a human-orientated breed and work part-time. I'd need to be a dedicated owner to keep them happy if I was to leave them 8-10 hours/ day e.g. walk and train b4 work, toys/ chews for daytime and walk evenings, come rain, hail or shine.

I think money in a high interest account is a better option. Lets face it, if the insurers ran at a loss, then none would be in business still. The odds are with them. There was a thread a while back about how much would you spend on your dog. It's a good idea to think about it. I did and have a ballpark figure of what I couldn't spend above. OH has agreed.

A behaviourist for a problem specific to day care If your dog's going there 5 days a week, I'd have expected them to handle any problems like this. Do they cover his crate to reduce stimulation? I'm sure you have/had the best intentions for your pup. Frustrating that they didn't suggest to you that 5 days might be too much etc., but I guess they lose money if you don't go. Pups need to spend a fair bit of time sleeping as they're growing so fast. about your OH getting lectured ... mine used to get the same at kiddie day care. Son was threatened with expulsion for trying to lead an escape from daycare: "I just wanted to take my friends to play at our place". OH thought it showed resourcefulness and good leadership skills, but teachers were not amused .

Training should also be like a game. I don't really play games with mine, either. They love their walks and training. Kids throw a ball for them sometimes, but really just like the dogs to hang out with them more than anything.

Eating own poo? No idea? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coprophagia My pup's breeder fed all pups from the one bowl and believed it taught them good manners. She'd discipline any bad behaviour if the dam didn't. Labs will always think they're starving- they still shouldn't be growling at you. Have you tried Trinagle of Temptation yet?

How old is the other dog? Older dogs might not appreciate puppy antics, but usually just put pup in their place. I felt fine leaving my 2 dogs together from day 1, but they seemed to get along well and the older dog is very active. I agree the neighbours are a bit harsh. It's been what, a day or 2? From what I understand, the spitz breeds do like the sound of their own voices, though. This is just a puppy. They need company and are used to littermates as well. Get a puppy kong, fill with treats. See if you think your dogs will be safe home alone together. Leave a note in the letterboxes nearby saying you have a new pup and are trying to stop the barking/ whining. Start a diary about when you're home and when you're out. Will help in case of complaints. People tend to exaggerate.

This isn't what you want to hear. .. Pulling is a training issue, not a collar issue. Walking at heel or just on loose leash is an advanced training exercise. My standard poodle (avatar) was driving me bonkers pulling at training, but eventually it clicked and I can now walk with a loose leash. I would have bought him a dress if told might help stop him pulling . Problem is that you are using the collar to drag the dog back to you- that's why she's "choking". Harnesses are used on sled dogs for pulling, so aren't going to help the problem, though will take the pressure off the neck and on to the body. Training, training, training. Have you started classes, yet?

I'm no expert. I seem to end up doing a bit of both. Most important thing is to part the fur, so you're brushing all the way out from the skin. eta: I failed to part the fur properly recently (pure laziness). Now it's hard work brushing out the tangles off a 25kg dog

How to say this nicely? Some dog trainers don't have good people skills, but that's not to say they're no good or what they have to say is incorrect. Talk to the instructor and say what's on your mind.

Closing the blinds works on my sister's dog. Plus ignoring it.

Has she been checked by the vet recently? If the vomiting continues, I'd take her to the vet. Otherwise, offer her a better qualily dry food and stick to it. What's not eaten in 15-20minutes is given back for her next meal. Healthy dogs with good teeth don't starve themselves.

If you're concerned about accidents, save yourself the grief and buy yourself a crate. < $100 for the size you need. Try ebay. Buy a wire one, not a canvas one (too easy to chew). Sure, it looks like a cage, but the dog will come to see it as their den. The crate can then be moved around as required. The crying/whining is normal behaviour, but will settle in time. It's just part of settling a pup into a new home. is common advicei.e. pup sleeps where you want them to from day1.

I know how you feel. Our young standard poodle (avatar) had luxating patellas about a month ago. Dislocating kneecaps. Must have been painful. Had me in tears, too :rolleyes:. I wondered about his hips, also. I took him to the vet. I was dithering but a poodle person encouraged me to get him checked out as he's so young and (hopefully) has a long life ahead of him. No treatment for now. XRays were OK. I don't take him for long walks (never have as you must not overexercise large breeds). I've not seen him dislocate for at least a fortnight. I agree with a lower protein food and limit exercise for your dog. What you describe does not sound normal. I'd take him to the vet for your peace of mind. It's clearly related to play dates- do they do zoomies, with lots of changes of direction etc.? This would be hard on joints and ligaments. My vet told me to limit this kind of play for my dog.

You've got to feel sorry for the dogs/ pups ;) . If it upsets you to see them in such poor condition etc., then ban them. Quite right that they'll go elsewhere, though, and it's probably better that the poor dog gets a clip. I would certainly charge more for a matted/ filthy dog as it's a lot more work for you. If you feel bad, donate profit to a good rescue organisation.

I don't have insurance for either dog. My BIL is in the legal section for insurance- do READ the fine print! My 6 year old mini poodle has only to been to the vet a few times in his life, all for minor things. If the standard has any problems, it's possibly hips/ knees. I'm not sure that's covered? Also, what's covered depends on breed, I think.

Contain the beasts or supervise ! I caught my pup with jaws closing around my laptop power cord, just to the left of me as a type when he was younger- evil! I said, "Arh!" and he let go- now I've move it so I can see it out of the corner of my eye when I'm on the computer. My 6 year old dog will still chew a quilt on occasion if given unsupervised access. I hope no-one looks at the repairs inside the doona covers. They just like to chew and have no idea what's suitable for chewing. Thank God it wasn't a live electrical wire!

Chances are the pup will not see 2 and 4 year olds as leaders any time soon . They're too small, voices too high-pitched, body language very different to an adult human. I'd simply separate dogs and kids until pup is trained to sit, come (to you, instead of chasing kids) and NOT jump up etc. You shouldn't have pup ripping dresses and mouthing a 2 year old. It's natural because your toddler is waving his arms, but still shouldn't be allowed. A 2 year old just doesn't understand. I have trouble telling a 9 year old not to play chasing games with our pup- he was encouraging him to mouth. Your pup does that to someone else's kid and they say, "the dog bit me" and you have major problems. Just don't put pup and kids in the situation in the first place. Large breed pups will knock over toddlers only due to size and your kids have to come first. My pup is now 25kg and 10 months old and pulled over my 9 year old holding his leash months ago. Your pup will be bigger. Find games the kids can safely play with the dog (nothing comes to mind, brain frazzled)..

I haven't done a K9 Force correspondence course, but I bought a step-by-step book and followed that for my older dog. There's a wealth of info. here and on links to get you started. Start with K9's Triangle of Temptation http://www.dolforums.com.au/index.php?showtopic=64101. Print it out and do it EXACTLY as suggested. Practice beforehand without a dog. I did this as the steps took a while to sink into my brain . Well worth the effort! Consistency, routine and firm but kind leadership is really important for dogs, much like kids .

My understanding is that beagles probably shouldn't be let off leash, so an extendable one might be good later on. But you asked for basics. My basics would be: Nylon flat collar, adjustable. Make sure it fits! Do NOT buy one too big for pup unless you want him to hang on it. Nylon ones are lighter, softer on dog. 4 foot long leash. Light leash for 8 week old puppy (cheapie is fine as it's just to start) Water bowl (larger) Food bowl X 2 (smaller) Harness for car (sled dogs use harnesses, so don't think they won't pull with a harness on ). I just bought a cheapie at one of those $2-type stores. None I saw were guaranteed to protect your dog in a crash. But best the dog's not a flying missile. Waterproof rug for car. Kong chew toy- they make a special puppy Kong, too. Bedding- I'd expect some destruction, so keep it cheap and simple. Crate- one each if you intend to use them. Length of rope for TOT. Indoor mat/ cushion each (if they're to be indoors) Puppy shampoo-though mine are just as likely to get the human stuff- as long as it's mild. Pups and dogs like raw bones- both mine love brisket bones and chicken necks. Choke chains have gone out of fashion. Most obedience clubs prefer you use a flat collar, unless your dog can "slip it's collar" (ask the breeder), then a "Martingale" type is suggested. My evil 10 month old pup chewed thru it's lead in 5 minutes flat today- sitting near us outdoor at cafe. Try Lupine brand- they replace collars and leads even if chewed!!! Nice quality and <$20. Suggest 3/4" width for a beagle.

My dogs have been more itchy than usual and our clothes are covered in pollen off the clothesline. I'm itchy, too, and don't normally have allergies. Mozzies are also about. My dogs slepp outside so I use Advantix which repels mozzies as well as covers fleas and ticks. There are certain times of day when the pollen count is higher. Anyone know when? Are you able to have her indoors during those times?

The fact that the dog's old, drinking lots of water, peeing alot could be a sign of illness e.g. diabetes. She might be incontinent due to old age or due to a urinary tract infection. Tablets prescribed by vet can help with some types of urinary incontinence. Bringing up water after drinking too much isn't uncommon. I'd encourage your Mum to take her to the vet asap. She doesn't need to make any decisions then and there. It would be a shame for the dog to go on like this if these problems could be improved.

Most of the links seem broken now . How exactly do you inject into the dog's neck? When I see the vet do it for vaccs- they just seem to grab some skin and stick the needle in. Doesn't appear to be into muscle? I can do intramuscular and intavenous injections on people, how to avoid nerves etc., but have no idea about dogs HELP! I'm thinking of storing some injectable VitC in the fridge, though I think my greatest problem would be getting a 25kg dog back home to drive to the vets.